Climbs 38
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 559m a.s.l
Faces SE

Tony belaying at the top of Giilercombe Buttress, March 11 © Simnel

Crag features

Large broken mountain crag best known for Gillercombe Buttress(S). Up to 140m high. Also Clara Bow(E1), Third Man(E3), Grey Knotts Face(D), Black Knight(E1), Ravens Groove(VS).

Approach notes

Thirty minute approach from Honister Summit or longer and steeper from Seathwaite.

 

THE FOLLOWING RESTRICTION DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OF THE POPULAR ROUTES I.E. GREY KNOTTS FACE AND ALL ROUTES LEFT OF IT
The peregrines that nest on Gillercombe have normally nested well away from the climbing so no routes have been restricted. This year they obviously fancied a change of scene and have moved to set up home in a less convenient location. Consequently all the (neglected) routes on the Right Wall (i.e. right of the appropriately maned Peregrine Wall (2000 guidebook) are now restricted as is the scramble up the right side of the crag. This means that if your heart is set on doing Prudence (E8 6c) or Caution (E7 6b) you will need to wait to July!

 

Information regarding restrictions taken from Trevor Langhorns thread on the forums (05/05/2016).

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The unsigned restriction applies to all routes on Right Wall, including the popular scramble.

Guidebooks

Borrowdale (2016)
Borrowdale (2000)
Out of print:
Borrowdale (1990)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  SCRAMBLING
2 Sourmilk Gill 2 *** 55
3 North-East Buttress 2 57
  CLIMBING
5 Gabbro
-
VD 15
6 Rough Magic MVS 4a 4
7 Rough Stuff VS 4c 3
8 Just say Non
-
MVS 4b 1
  Pedestal Wall
10 Pink Lady
-
HVS 4c  
11 South Buttress
-
VD 2
12 Pedestal Nose
-
S 3
13 Pedestal Cheek
-
VD 2
14 Clara Bow
-
E1 5b 3
15 The Third Man
-
E3 6a 1
16 Citizen Kane
-
E4 6a 2
17 The Wizard of Oz
-
E5 6b 1
18 Andy Warhol
-
HVS 5a 1
19 Louise Brooks
-
E3 6a 1
  Gillercombe Buttress
21 Gillercombe Bastion
-
VS 4b 29
22 I'm "lichen" this, heather. VS 4c * 2
23 Gillercombe Gully
-
VD 3
24 Mad Dogs and Englishmen VS 4c 6
25 Gillercombe Buttress
-
S 3c ** 892
26 String of Pearls E2 5b ** 2
27 Moss Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
28 Gillercombe Chimneys
-
HS 4b 4
29 Grey Knotts Face
-
D * 116
  The Right Wall
31 Peregrine Way
-
S  
32 Tiercel Wall
-
HVS 5b  
33 Raven's Groove
-
VS 4c * 2
34 Patient Tigers
-
E2 5c * 2
35 The Black Night
-
E1 5b * 1
36 The White Lady
-
E3 6a 1
37 Eyrie
-
HVS 5a 2
38 Eyrie Direct
-
E2 5b 1
39 Caution E8 6c  
40 Prudence
-
E7 6b  
  WINTER
42 Gillercombe Gully
-
II  
43 Gillercombe Buttress IV 5 *** 8
44 Against all odds IV 4 ** 3

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