Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
St Bees © Alex Messenger
Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...
Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.
Bouldering info here:
A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.
Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.
Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.
The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates. Other St Bees bouldering areas: The boulders to the south of Fisherman's Steps can only be used outside the nesting season. Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore. At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.