Climbs 344
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces W

St Bees © Alex Messenger

Crag features

Beautiful location by the sea. Selection of fine sport routes - Nectarine, Toxic Rock, Dreaming of Red Rocks, Fisherman's Friend - and awesome bouldering - Clash of the Titan's, Apiary Arete, Fisherman's Dyno, Hueco Crack...

Many routes have recently been re-bolted, but not all. Beware, the old bolts can be lethal.

Bouldering info here:

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/234-st-bees-head-north.html

http://www.lakesbloc.com/crags/north-west/238-st-bees-head-south.html

A few of the blocks across the southern area have been shifted by storm-waters, e.g. Kracken line squashed against rear blocks. Still well worth the visit.

Approach notes

Cliffs are owned by the RSPB. Take heed of the access agreement detailed in the guidebook. (Bird Bans etc). 15 minute approach.

Southern climbers descent (by lighthouse - above apiary wall) has been badly damaged by erosion and rockfall in recent floods and is quite dangerous. I recommend using the alternative descent path about 100m further north.

Access Advice

The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates. Other St Bees bouldering areas: The boulders to the south of Fisherman's Steps can only be used outside the nesting season. Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore. At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
Went on a club trip here a few weeks ago, although the descent was steep, we all managed it okay and the fixed ropes seemed secure and safe. All the problems were in great condition although the routes on the back cliff were dripping wet - they probably take a good few days to dry out after rain.
Morgan P - 24/Mar/15
A few of the blocks at the southern area have shifted in the spring storms. Kracken block pushed up against rear rocks. Still well worth the visit.
rice boy - 06/May/14
Was at the crag on 29/10/2012. Sizeable fresh-looking rock fall in gully down to the boulders. Rock all over the place, so didn't trust any of the manky fixed ropes. The "path" has taken a battering, making it a fair bit worse. Care advised on the way down!
PeakDJ - 30/Oct/12
The walk in down the slopes is horrendous! especially when windy. An easier walk can be found if rather than crossing by the stile at the foghorn continue until the next style - here you can log you mats down safely. FANTASTIC place though!!
Fluvial - 27/Aug/11
just checked the guide, the route was the 'Ancient Mariner'
SGD - 24/May/11
I was at this crag on the 18/5 climbing one of the 1st routes on the approach (lovely layback crack given 5+/E1 in the selected guide) which is outside of the restricted bird ban area. Anyway, there are gulls nesting on the ledge about 10m up, you can't see them from the ground but they are there.
SGD - 24/May/11
As part of the work of the Cumbria Bolt Fund we where there on Sunday 4th April and have replaced a number of lower offs on the Apiary Wall area. There is still allot of work to be done before the climbs all have new bolts in though so watch this space. For more info go to... www.cumbriaboltfund.com
Dan Robinson - 07/Apr/10
Parking is now 2 at the farm.
bentley's biceps - 01/Mar/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *** North Head ***
2 Slopey Arete *
-
V5+ 1
3 Bee-Fish * V11 1
  Outlands (Bouldering)
5 Outlander
-
f7B+ ** 6
6 Overcooked f7A+ ** 2
7 Insubordination
-
f7A+ * 3
8 Depth Perception
-
f8A ** 1
9 Factor 50
-
f7A+ 3
10 Highlander
-
f7C ** 1
11 Highlander standing start f7A+ ** 3
12 The Queen Anne's Revenge f7A+ ** 4
13 Scyla
-
f7B+ * 2
  Old Buoy's (Bouldering)
15 Bee to a Honey Pot f7A+ ** 4
16 Jabberjaw
-
f7B+ 2
17 Modulator
-
f7C ** 5
18 Salvage
-
f7C ** 1
19 Buoyz in the Hood
-
f7B ** 7
20 Lost Buoys f7C * 2
21 Hornblower f7A * 4
22 Big Buoy (Stand Start) f7B ** 6
23 Big Buoy f7B+ ** 8
24 The Argo f7A * 9
25 Baron Greenback f7A+ 4
26 Salt n' Shake
-
f7A+ 6
27 The Buoy Who Cried Wolf
-
f7A 4
28 Old Buoy's Traverse f6C+ *** 6
29 Old buoy's mantle f6B ** 8
30 Fisherman's Fiend f7A+ * 6
31 Deep Blue Yonder f7B ** 1
32 Infinite Worlds f7A 2
33 Rent Buoys f7A * 4
34 The Briny
-
f6A+ 2
  Apiary Wall (Bouldering)
36 Aqua Choc
-
f7A+ * 6
37 Undercooke f7A ** 83
38 Suns of Temper f7C+ **  
39 Undercooke Arete f7A+ ** 7
40 Floating Points
-
f7C ** 6
41 Yellow Desert Scream f7B+ *** 77
42 Yellow Desert Scream LH Wall f7C ** 7
43 Headbanger f7B+ *** 156
44 Headbanger (stand up) f6B *** 102
45 Scaly Man Fish f7B ** 5
46 Red Snapper f7C * 2
47 The Young Man and the Sea f7A * 10
48 Problem 1 (Rockfax)
-
V2 9
49 Trailer Trash f7C+ *** 3
50 Apiary Arete f5 5c *** 364
51 The Traverse (Rockfax) V2 5c * 46
52 Clash of the Titans f7B+ ** 61
53 Clash Sitter f8A ***  
54 Problem 8 (Rockfax) V3 32
55 Problem 9 (Rockfax) V2 6a 119
56 Problem 10 (Rockfax) V1 5c 170
57 Problem 11 (Rockfax) V3 94
58 Problem 12 (Rockfax)
-
V0 58
59 Problem 13 (Rockfax) f5 5c * 104
60 Flip Flop Traverse / Problem 14 (Rockfax) f7A * 53
61 Manx Wall / Problem 16 (Rockfax) f7B+ 1
62 Problem 17 (Rockfax) V2 6a 25
63 Problem 18 (Rockfax)
-
V1 5c 39
64 Problem 19 (Rockfax)
-
V3 * 38
65 Phat Arete / Problem 20 (Rockfax) f6C * 122
66 Phat Ramp / Problem 21 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 95
67 Problem 22 (Rockfax)
-
V5 63
68 Boulder H - Problem 5 (LakesBloc) f6C+ 32
69 Problem 23 (Rockfax)
-
V2 6a 124
70 Problem 24 (Rockfax)
-
V2 78
71 Problem 25 (Rockfax) V1 5c 132
72 Chipper's Wall f7A+ *** 64
73 The Rail / Problem 28 (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 98
74 Problem 29 (Rockfax)
-
V4 * 54
75 Problem 30 (Rockfax) V3 * 60
76 Problem 31 (Rockfax)
-
VB 87
77 Boulder K - Problem 9 (LakesBloc) f6C+ 37
78 Problem 32 (Rockfax)
-
V1 5c 72
79 Boulder K - Problem 11 (LakesBloc) f6B+ 12
80 Problem 33 (Rockfax)
-
V1 5c 79
81 Problem 34 (Rockfax)
-
V4 * 45
82 Problem 35 (Rockfax)
-
V0 5b 115
83 Problem 35a (Rockfax) VB 47
84 Problem 36 (Rockfax)
-
V1 5c 149
85 Problem 37 (Rockfax) V3 * 93
86 Problem 38 (Rockfax) V6 ** 55
87 Problem 39 (Rockfax) V3 6a 92
88 Problem 41 (Rockfax)
-
V6 * 61
89 By the Power of RAAA f7C+ ** 1
90 Block Traverse - Problem 40 (Rockfax) f6B * 101
91 Apiary Wall - Block I - LakesBloc f4+ 8
92 Apriary Wall - Block L - Problem 2 - Lakes Bloc V5 14
93 Kiss Kiss Bang Bang f7C * 10
94 Left Arete of Kiss Kiss Bang Bang
-
f6C+ * 30
95 Kiss Kiss Bye Bye f6B 1
96 The Legend of Oily Johnnies f7A * 8
97 Dark Side of the Moon f7C * 31
98 I Cockerhill f4+ 4
99 Problem 20 f6B * 8
100 Problem 21 f6C ** 7
101 Blow Hole *
-
V5+ 1
  Apiary Wall (Routes)
103 Absolutely Fabulous 6b 16
104 Kleeneze
-
6c 3
105 Blooming Marvellous
-
6c ** 16
106 Just Nice
-
6a+ 10
107 Nectarine
-
6c+ *** 20
108 Drone
-
7a+ * 5
109 Virgin Queen
-
7a ** 2
110 Royal Jelly
-
6b 1
111 Honey Pot
-
6b+ * 12
112 Way Out West
-
E5 6a * 1
113 Beeswax
-
6b 3
114 Swarm
-
7a ** 5
115 Bee Hive
-
6b+ 4
116 The Apiarist
-
6b+ ** 24
117 Bee Sting
-
7a ** 1
118 Foul Brood
-
7a+ * 2
119 Promenade Crack
-
7b ** 2
120 Aurora 6a+ 6
  Scabby Back (Routes)
122 Megadrive
-
6b+ 11
123 The Wasp
-
HVS 5b  
124 Molly Malone
-
6c ** 6
125 Whisky Galore
-
7a ** 5
126 Rainbow Warrior
-
6b+ ** 4
127 Dave's Route
-
7a+ 2
128 Screamadelica
-
7a+ 2
129 The Adventures of Pinocchio
-
7a * 2
130 Nasal Passage
-
6a * 1
131 The Steal
-
7a 2
132 Route One
-
4a * 59
133 Natural Habitat
-
6c * 1
134 Feeling Groovy
-
6c ** 26
135 Route Two
-
4a * 47
136 Peices of Eight
-
6a * 34
137 Mr Sandman
-
6a+ ** 19
138 Andy's Route
-
6b 36
139 Northern Lights
-
6b+ 10
140 Sinking in the West
-
6a+ 39
141 Trick or Treat
-
6b+ 24
142 Scurvy
-
6a 33
143 Army Screamers
-
5c 40
144 Dreaming of Red Rocks
-
7a ** 69
145 Ancient Mariner
-
5c * 55
146 Recharge
-
6a+ 37
147 Twilight Zone
-
3a 39
148 Friggin' in the Riggin'
-
6b 5
149 Quantum Leap
-
6b+ 7
150 Stage Fright
-
6a+ 15
151 Legend's Friend
-
5c 2
152 I Wish I Was
-
8a 1
153 Frigging Friends
-
6c 1
154 Cutlass
-
6c+ * 4
155 Friday 13th
-
7a * 3
156 Slash and Grab
-
6b 2
157 Outsider
-
6a+ * 2
158 Rank Outsider
-
6b+  
159 Gypsy
-
VS 5a 1
160 Something for the Weekend
-
6b+ * 12
161 Poseidon 7c ** 1
162 Scorpion
-
6a 14
163 Fisherman's Friend
-
5a ** 130
164 Chimney Route 4c 18
165 Western Crack
-
5c 12
166 Halloween
-
4c 49
167 Happy Friday
-
5a 42
168 Elysium 7b ** 21
169 Toxic Rock
-
7a *** 10
170 Bee Line
-
6b+ * 14
171 Nuclear Seepage 7b * 5
172 West Coast Crack
-
VS 4c 7
173 Run Wild, Run Free
-
E5 6a ** 2
174 Driller Killer
-
6a * 5
175 China Syndrome
-
6a+ 2
176 Andy's Route - Right Hand Variation
-
6a+ 9
177 Westworld
-
7a+ * 4
178 Gimartin
-
VS 2
179 Cave Route R.H
-
7a *** 1
  Fisherman's Steps / Main Cliff (Routes)
181 Sobriety
-
HVS 5b  
182 Rat Way
-
E4 6a  
183 Never Turn Your Back on the Sea
-
E5 6b 2
184 Gay Trip
-
E1 5b * 1
185 Pot Luck
-
HVS 5a *  
186 Ossicle
-
HVS  
187 Black Pearl
-
HVS 1
188 Tantalum
-
VS 1
189 Castaway
-
7c ** 1
  Fisherman's Steps (Bouldering)
191 Out of the Blue f7C+ *** 1
192 Rascal's Wall
-
f7B * 3
193 Solitary Refinement
-
f7B+ ** 3
194 Bow Wow Prow f7B ** 26
195 Fisherman's Friend f7B 8
196 Problem 1 (N) (Rockfax) f5 5c * 16
197 Problem 2 (N) (Rockfax) V1 5c 21
198 Problem 4 (N) (Rockfax) V3 9
199 Problem 3 (F-Steps N)
-
V1 5c 6
200 Problem 3 (N) (Rockfax) V0- 4c 9
201 Drop Off / Problem 6 (N) (Rockfax)
-
f6C+ 8
202 Problem 7 (N) (Rockfax)
-
V4 * 28
203 Swept Away
-
f7C * 6
204 Parky 93 f7A 26
205 The Arete f7A *** 94
206 The Arete (ss)
-
f7B *** 18
207 Dropping Anchor f7B * 2
208 Swinger / Problem 10 (N) (Rockfax) f7A ** 21
209 Swinger (ss) / Problem 10a (N) (Rockfax)
-
f7B ** 7
210 Problem 12 (N) (Rockfax) V0- 4c 21
211 Problem 15 (N) (Rockfax) f6A 51
212 Problem 16 (N) (Rockfax) V3 * 22
213 Problem 1 (S) (Rockfax) V1 5c * 23
214 Fruits de Mer
-
f7A+ * 33
215 Ponyo f7C * 1
216 Alien Flake / Problem 2 (S) (Rockfax) f4 5a ** 43
217 Problem 3 (S) (Rockfax)
-
V0 4c 16
218 G Brady f6A 20
219 Problem 15 (S) (Rockfax) f5+ 6a 15
220 Pockets Traverse f3+ 4c 33
221 T-Bone Crack f6A 3
222 Stack and Slap f6C+ ** 6
223 Tender Hooks f7B+ 9 * 16
224 Tender Bass f8A *  
225 Lateral Mindset f7B+ 9 *** 9
226 Fisherman's Dyno f5+ 6a *** 228
227 Fisherman's Bass f7C+ ***  
228 Wobble Bass f8A **  
229 Hueco Crack (ss)
-
f7A *** 80
230 Hueco Crack (stand up)
-
f6C 30
231 Primate Principals
-
f7A+ * 4
232 Cave Route X
-
f7B 3
233 Tim's Crack f7C+ ** 17
234 Straight Outta Rowrah f7C+ **  
235 Hueco Crack f7A+ *** 68
236 Left Crack f7A ** 26
237 Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2
-
f5 3
  Far South (Bouldering)
239 Operation Winkle
-
f7B * 1
240 Water World f7B *** 7
241 Face Warp
-
f6C+ * 11
242 Far Side / Problem 6 (Rockfax)
-
f5+ * 6
243 The Corner f5 5c * 12
244 The Tramlines f4+ 5b ** 18
245 Slanty f6A ** 7
246 Whiteface Left f6A * 12
247 Whiteface Centre f4 5a * 11
248 Whiteface Right f5 5c * 9
249 Fire Island
-
f7B+ * 9
250 Gravity Wave
-
f7A+ * 6
251 New Wave
-
f7C ** 2
252 The Legend of Old Gregg
-
f7A+ * 5
253 Cage Fighter
-
f8A *  
254 Cage Fighter (with block)
-
f7B ** 2
255 The Knees Bees
-
f7B ** 2
256 Higher Learning
-
f7C *** 2
257 Sol
-
f7C+ *** 1
258 Pure Shores 8a *** 1
  Fleswick Buttress (Routes)
260 Sink the Bismark
-
7b *** 1
261 Sea of Sands
-
7c ** 1
262 Z Climb
-
7a+ ** 2
263 The Sea Shall Not Have Them
-
6c+ ** 1
  *** South Head ***
265 The Hateful Eight f7B+ ** 3
266 The Quick and the Dead f7B+ ** 4
267 Master at Arms
-
f7B+ * 2
268 Drunken Sailor
-
f7A+ 2
269 The Ranger
-
f6C+ * 1
270 Death Drives a Taxi
-
f7A+ * 2
271 Monkey's Fist
-
f6C * 1
272 The Cove, Problem 5 V0 1
273 The Cove, Problem 7 V1 1
274 Panic Attack
-
f7B * 1
275 Sword of Omens
-
f7A+ * 2
276 Sight Beyond Sight
-
f7A+ 2
277 Shark Attack
-
f7B ** 2
278 Honeycomb
-
f7B 15
279 Tale of the Talbot's
-
f7B+ ** 2
280 Tale of the Talbot's (SS)
-
f7C *** 3
281 Cave Boulder 1, Problem 2 f6B+ * 2
282 Cave Boulder 1, Problem 3 V1 5+ 3
283 Cave Boulder 2, Problem 1 V0 3
284 Bilge Rat
-
f6A * 1
285 Bilge Rat Low f7B 1
286 Red Whale f6A+ ** 10
287 Red Whale (Extension) f6C 5
288 The Beluga Waltz f7B * 1
289 Orca f7A+ * 7
290 Orca RH f6C+ 2
291 Whale Dyno
-
f6C+  
292 Whale Dyno SDS
-
f7A *  
293 Cave Boulder 2, Problem 2
-
f5 4
294 Problem 3 - Missing Corner Block f6A+ 5
295 The Kraken f7A+ *** 22
296 The Kraken LH f7A+ ** 17
297 Problem 3, Kraken Boulder V3 1
298 Problem 4, Kraken Boulder f4 4
299 Problem 6, Boulder 2
-
V0+ 2
300 Monster Slap f5 4
301 The Scoop f5+ 14
302 Hueco Curve f6C+ * 24
303 Kill Switch f7A+ * 23
304 Bottomless Arete f6B+ * 15
305 Killer Bee f7B+ *** 12
306 Dead Calm f7B ** 18
307 Jolly Rogered Rancher f5 * 3
308 Toxic Crusader
-
f7A+ * 5
309 Supposition Test f7B ** 7
310 Calico Jack f6A *** 8
311 Kamikaze Caterpillar f6B 1
312 Flotsam V3 1
313 Shot Hole Wall V0 1
314 Weather Eye Arete
-
f7A+ 1
315 Vanishing Angle
-
f6A+ *** 15
316 Crow's Nest Slab V0 1
317 Problem 1, Platform Block f5 8
318 Seaward Slopes
-
f6B 14
319 Problem 4, Platform Block
-
f6A+ 9
320 Black Hole f6C 11
321 Punching Judy
-
f7B+ 4
322 Black Hole SS
-
f7A+ 11
323 Black Dynamite f7B * 2
324 Snowproof
-
f7A+ * 2
325 Cannon Area Problem 2 V2 1
326 Freebooter f7A * 3
327 Blow Hole (15 Rockfax) f6C+ 7
328 The Scoop (Cryptozoo) f6C+ * 6
329 Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax) V1 5c * 3
330 Godzilla f6C 12
331 Davy Jones' Locker
-
f7B+ ** 5
332 Moby Dick
-
f7C ** 1
333 Yellowcake
-
f7C *** 5
334 Californium
-
f7B * 2
335 Liberty's End
-
f7A 5
336 Iron Hide (stand) f7A ** 8
337 Iron Hide SDS
-
f8A *** 2
338 Triassic Park
-
f7B ** 2
339 Drop Off (Boulder 2/Problem 6) f7A  
340 Fowl Play * f7C * 1
341 Boulder L - Problem 1 *
-
f4+  
342 Boulder L - Problem 2 (LakesBloc) *
-
f5 1
343 Boulder L - Problem 1 (LakesBloc) *
-
f4+ 2
344 Boulder L - Problem 3 (LakesBloc) *
-
f5 1
345 Problem 14 (S) (Rockfax) * f5+ 5c  
346 Problem 12 (Far South) (Rockfax) * f4+ 1
347 The Crack (Far South) (Rockfax) * f4 1
348 Problem 16 (Far South) (Rockfax) * f4+ 1
349 Head banger RH * V8 *** 1
350 Hally * f6C+ * 1
351 GT Turbo * f7B+ ** 2
352 Slopey Arete * f6C+ ** 9
353 Hyperbolic Trajectory * f7A+ ** 2
354 Harcombe *
-
f6B+ 1
355 Vang * f5+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Greg Chapman