Climbs 189
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 650m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

First light on Beinn Eighe © jameshiggins

Crag features

The Triple Buttresses of Beinn Eighe, located in the stunning Coire Mhic Fherchair (pronounced byn ae and corry vic ere kair) and is one of the most impressive cliffs in Scotland. The sandstone buttresses are capped by large quartzite cliffs.

Theres an array of classic summer rock and steep mixed climbs as well as some long mounteering journeys. 

Approach notes

Beinn Eighe is a nature reserve on National Trust for Scotland land.

As does Grooving High
Captain Solo - 28/May/11
The Pale Diedre appears twice ^
Andy Moles - 15/May/11
henry mcelroy about 12 hrs to do all three finishing in torridon!
pierro - 26/Nov/06
Do not expect easy routefinding on Central Buttress; every one that climbs it seems to find a different line. And don't go near it if you don't know you can finish it; retreat would be a loose nightmare.
Jamie B. - 04/Oct/05
sorry to see there is no comments, we were looking at walking this at the end of august, setting off from kinlochewe and finishing at torridon how long do you think it will take at an average pace?
henry mcelroy - 07/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Far East Wall)
2 Nightcap Groove (Summer)
-
HVS 5b  
3 Nightcap Groove (Winter)
-
VI 7  
4 Morning Wall
-
VS  
5 Sidewinder (Summer)
-
S 4a  
6 Sidewinder (Winter)
-
V 6  
7 Glow Worm
-
V 6 *  
8 Sting (Summer)
-
HVS * 1
9 Sting (Winter)
-
VII 7 ** 1
10 Sting Direct
-
E1  
11 Sunscream
-
E5 * 2
12 Moonshine
-
E4 *** 13
13 Angel Face
-
E2 5c *** 64
14 Seeds of Destruction
-
E3 5c *** 11
15 The Reaper
-
E2 ** 3
16 Sundance (Summer)
-
E2 *  
17 Sundance (Winter) VIII 8 *** 14
18 The Root of all Evil (Summer)
-
E2 *  
19 The Root of All Evil (Winter) IX 8  
20 Hydroponicum (Summer)
-
HVS  
21 Hydroponicum
-
VIII 8 ** 1
22 Crazy Eyes VIII 9 *** 2
23 Meccano
-
E3  
24 Rudolf
-
E2 1
25 Colgarra
-
E3 ** 4
26 Immortal Memory
-
IX 9 *** 2
27 One Step Beyond IX 9  
28 King of the Swingers
-
E3 **  
29 Vishnu
-
VII 6 *** 2
30 The Rising Son
-
E2 **  
31 Daughter of the Dawn
-
E3 ** 2
32 Kami-kaze (Summer)
-
VS 4b *  
33 Kami-kaze (Winter)
-
VI 7 *** 25
34 New World Order E6 6b ***  
35 Fascist Groove Thang
-
E7 ** 1
36 Birth of the Cool
-
E1 *  
37 Ling Dynasty (Alternative Start) E6 6b **  
38 Ling Dynasty
-
E5 *** 8
39 Groovin' High
-
E1 *** 76
40 Sumo
-
E3 *** 29
41 Body Heat
-
E4 * 1
42 Body Swerve
-
E4 * 1
43 Karaoke Wall
-
HVS  
44 Epilogue
-
VS 5a  
45 Divine Ambition
-
E1  
46 Far East Gully
-
III 5  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Eastern Ramparts)
48 The Trundler
-
HVS 5a 1
49 Cornice Groove (Summer)
-
VS 1
50 Cornice Groove (Winter)
-
VI 7 * 1
51 Corniced Arete
-
VS 1
52 The Modern Idiot
-
E1  
53 Olympus (Summer)
-
VS 4c * 3
54 Olympus (Winter)
-
VII 8  
55 Claustrophobic Corner
-
E1 5b *  
56 The Ho Chi Min Trail
-
E2 ***  
57 Heavy Flak
-
E1 *  
58 The Great Wall of China
-
E3  
59 Turkish Delight
-
E3 5c ** 4
60 Feast of the East
-
E1 *  
61 Feast of the East (Winter) VIII 9 *** 2
62 Eastern Promise (Summer)
-
VS * 1
63 Eastern Promise (Winter)
-
VI 7 ** 5
64 Seige Tactics
-
E1  
65 Rampart Wall (Summer)
-
HVS ** 1
66 Rampart Wall (Winter)
-
VII 8 *** 8
67 Pale Rider (Summer)
-
E1 ** 11
Climb name Grade
68 Pale Rider (Winter) VIII 9 *** 2
69 Paleface Wall
-
E3 *  
70 The Pale Diedre
-
E2 *** 33
71 Boggle (Summer) E1 *** 2
72 Boggle (Winter)
-
VIII 8 *** 4
73 Tainted Galahad
-
E2 ** 1
74 Rampage
-
E2  
75 The Unknown Soldier
-
E1 * 1
76 The Unknown Warrior
-
VII 7 *  
77 Forgotten Warrior
-
HVS *  
78 Samurai (Summer)
-
HVS  
79 Samurai (Winter)
-
VII 7 * 4
80 Simpleton
-
HVS * 1
81 Shang-High (Summer)
-
HVS  
82 Shang-High (Winter)
-
VII 7 *** 20
83 Fear of the Dark
-
E1 5b * 1
84 The Tower of Darkness
-
E4 *  
85 Fairytale Groove (Summer)
-
HVS 5a *  
86 Fairytale Groove (Winter)
-
VII 8 2
87 Happy Ever After
-
E1  
88 Gnome Wall (Summer)
-
HS 4a 1
89 Gnome Wall (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
90 The Gash (Summer)
-
VD  
91 The Gash
-
III 4  
92 Gashtrognome
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (East Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
94 Icefall Start
-
V 5 3
95 Mango
-
VS 1
96 The Chimney
-
VI 7 **  
97 Bloodstone Start
-
S 2
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (East Buttress-quartzite tiers)
99 East Buttress Left-hand (Summer) VD 1
100 East Buttress Left-hand (Winter)
-
V 5  
101 East Buttress (Summer)
-
D *** 123
102 East Buttress (Winter)
-
IV 5 *** 114
103 East Central Gully
-
III * 4
104 East Central Gully, Direct start
-
V 4 * 7
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Wall)
106 East Central Ribs (Summer)
-
S 4a  
107 East Central Ribs (Winter)
-
V 6  
108 The Cool Cleft
-
V 4 * 2
109 Assegai (Summer)
-
VS 5a **  
110 Assegai (Winter)
-
V 6  
111 East Wall (Summer)
-
S 1
112 East Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
113 Fulmar Chimneys
-
VD 1
114 East Central Wall
-
V 4 * 1
115 Patey's Direct Route (Summer)
-
HS 4b ***  
116 Patey's Direct Route (Winter)
-
V 6  
117 Pelican (Summer)
-
S *  
118 Pelican (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 2
119 Condor Crack
-
S 6 ***  
120 Flight of the Condor
-
VII 8  
121 Flying Finish (to Central Buttress)
-
HS  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress)
123 Central Buttress - Pigott's Route
-
S 4b ** 32
124 Central Buttress (Summer)
-
VS *** 56
125 Central Buttress (Winter)
-
VI 7 *** 56
126 Longdrop Route (VS Route Direct Start) VS 4b 2
127 The Generation Game
-
E2 5c *  
128 Hamilton's Route (Summer)
-
S 4a ** 38
129 Hamilton's Route (Winter)
-
VI 6 ** 3
130 Central Buttress - Grade IV Line
-
IV 5 *** 2
131 Collie's Route
-
IV 5 2
132 Parker's Route
-
VD  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
134 Central Reservation
-
HVS  
Climb name Grade
135 Swinging in the Rain
-
HVS *  
136 Central Corner
-
VII 8  
137 Puddock
-
HVS *  
138 Readymix
-
S 3
139 Slab Route
-
D 3
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Lower Quartzite Tier)
141 Porcine Connection
-
E1 5a  
142 Gallus
-
E1 5a  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Upper Quartzite Tier)
144 Dusk
-
E1  
145 Nunn's Route IV  
146 Missing The Cut IV 6 ** 1
147 West Central Gully
-
VIII 7 *** 1
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress)
149 West Buttress (Summer) S 4a * 7
150 West Buttress (Winter)
-
IV 4 *** 68
151 Corner Finish to West Buttress (Summer)
-
VS * 1
152 Corner Finish to West Buttress (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
153 Still Game (Summer) VS 4c * 1
154 Still Game (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
155 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 1
156 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress (Winter)
-
V 6 ** 6
157 West Buttress Direttissima
-
VII 8 *** 3
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
159 Sideshow
-
HVS  
160 Cyclonic Westerly
-
E3 ** 2
161 Junior
-
E1 1
162 Junior Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
163 Relayer VS  
164 Senior
-
HVS *  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Quartzite Tier)
166 Maelstrom (Summer)
-
HVS  
167 Maelstrom (Winter)
-
VII 7 * 1
168 Balla na Gaoithe
-
HVS 5a * 1
169 Earth, Wind and Fire
-
HVS 1
170 Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears
-
VIII 8 *** 18
171 Shoot the Breeze (Summer)
-
E2 *** 5
172 Shoot the Breeze (Winter) IX 8 *** 5
173 Chop Suey (Summer)
-
E1  
174 Chop Suey (Winter) VIII 8 **  
175 Bruised Violet VIII 8 *** 2
176 Creme de Violette IX 9 1
177 Force Ten
-
E2 ***  
178 Twilight Zone
-
E2 5c **  
179 Wall of the Winds
-
E1 * 1
180 Mistral (Summer)
-
E1 *  
181 Mistral (Winter)
-
VII 7 *** 5
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Fuselage Wall)
183 Pension Plan
-
V 7  
184 Flying Fortress (Summer)
-
VS *  
185 Flying Fortress (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
186 Fuselage Wall (Summer)
-
S 4a  
187 Fuselage Wall (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
188 Fight or Flight V 6 ** 21
189 The Ace (Summer)
-
VS 5a 1
190 The Ace (Winter)
-
VI 7 ** 1
191 Bombs Away
-
V 7 1
192 Fuselage Gully
-
II * 137
193 The Upper Girdle (Summer)
-
S *** 2
194 The Upper Girdle (Winter)
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Far West Buttress)
196 Far West Buttress (Summer)
-
S 4a  
197 Far West Buttress (Winter)
-
V 6 ** 3
198 Chocks Away V 6 1
  Sgurr Nan Fhir Duibhe
200 The Black Carls (Summer) 1 * 31
201 The Black Carls (Winter) I/II * 11

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jamie Skelton