UKC

Climbs 185
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 650m a.s.l
Faces N

First light on Beinn Eighe © jameshiggins

Crag features

The Triple Buttresses of Beinn Eighe, located in the stunning Coire Mhic Fherchair (pronounced byn ae and corry vic ere kair) are 300m high sandstone capped with quartzite cliffs.

Many classic three star winter and rock routes,

including :

Central Buttress (S, V)

Pale Diedre

Angle Face

Approach notes

Beinn Eighe is a nature reserve on National Trust for Scotland land.

As does Grooving High
Captain Solo - 28/May/11
The Pale Diedre appears twice ^
Andy Moles - 15/May/11
henry mcelroy about 12 hrs to do all three finishing in torridon!
pierro - 26/Nov/06
Do not expect easy routefinding on Central Buttress; every one that climbs it seems to find a different line. And don't go near it if you don't know you can finish it; retreat would be a loose nightmare.
Jamie B. - 04/Oct/05
sorry to see there is no comments, we were looking at walking this at the end of august, setting off from kinlochewe and finishing at torridon how long do you think it will take at an average pace?
henry mcelroy - 07/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Far East Wall)
2 Nightcap Groove
-
HVS 5b  
3 Nightcap Groove
-
VI 7  
4 Morning Wall
-
VS  
5 Sidewinder
-
S 4a  
6 Sidewinder
-
V 6  
7 Glow Worm
-
V 6 *  
8 Sting
-
HVS * 1
9 Sting
-
VII 7 ** 1
10 Sting Direct
-
E1  
11 Sunscream
-
E5 * 2
12 Moonshine
-
E4 *** 13
13 Angel Face
-
E2 5c *** 62
14 Seeds of Destruction
-
E3 5c *** 10
15 The Reaper
-
E2 ** 2
16 Sundance
-
E2 *  
17 Sundance VIII 8 *** 14
18 The Root of all Evil
-
E2 *  
19 Hydroponicum
-
HVS  
20 Hydroponicum
-
VIII 8 ** 1
21 Crazy Eyes VIII 9 *** 2
22 Meccano
-
E3  
23 Rudolf
-
E2 1
24 Colgarra
-
E3 ** 3
25 Immortal Memory
-
IX 9 *** 2
26 King of the Swingers
-
E3 **  
27 Vishnu
-
VII 6 *** 2
28 The Rising Son
-
E2 **  
29 Daughter of the Dawn
-
E3 ** 2
30 Kami Kaze
-
VS 4b *  
31 Kami-kaze
-
VI 7 *** 25
32 Fascist Groove Thang
-
E7 ** 1
33 Birth of the Cool
-
E1 *  
34 Ling Dynasty
-
E5 *** 7
35 Groovin' High
-
E1 *** 70
36 Sumo
-
E3 *** 28
37 Body Heat
-
E4 * 1
38 Body Swerve
-
E4 * 1
39 Karaoke Wall
-
HVS  
40 Epilogue
-
VS 5a  
41 Divine Ambition
-
E1  
42 Far East Gully
-
III 5  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Eastern Ramparts)
44 The Trundler
-
HVS 5a 1
45 Cornice Groove
-
VS 1
46 Cornice Groove
-
VI 7 * 1
47 Corniced Arete
-
VS 1
48 The Modern Idiot
-
E1  
49 Olympus
-
VS 4c * 3
50 Olympus Winter
-
VII 8  
51 Claustrophobic Corner
-
E1 5b *  
52 The Ho Chi Min Trail
-
E2 ***  
53 Heavy Flak
-
E1 *  
54 The Great Wall of China
-
E3  
55 Turkish Delight
-
E3 5c ** 3
56 Feast of the East
-
E1 *  
57 Eastern Promise
-
VS * 1
58 Eastern Promise
-
VI 7 ** 5
59 Seige Tactics
-
E1  
60 Rampart Wall
-
HVS ** 1
61 Rampart Wall
-
VII 8 *** 8
62 Pale Rider
-
E1 ** 9
63 Pale Rider VIII 9 *** 2
64 Paleface Wall
-
E3 *  
65 The Pale Diedre
-
E2 *** 32
66 Boggle E1 *** 1
67 Boggle
-
VIII 8 *** 4
68 Tainted Galahad
-
E2 ** 1
Climb name Grade
69 Rampage
-
E2  
70 The Unknown Soldier
-
E1 * 1
71 The Unknown Warrior
-
VII 7 *  
72 Forgotten Warrior
-
HVS *  
73 Samurai
-
HVS  
74 Samurai
-
VII 7 * 2
75 Simpleton
-
HVS * 1
76 Shang-High
-
HVS  
77 Shang-High
-
VII 7 *** 19
78 Fear of the Dark
-
E1 5b *  
79 The Tower of Darkness
-
E4 *  
80 Fairytale Groove
-
HVS 5a *  
81 Fairytale Groove
-
VII 8 2
82 Happy Ever After
-
E1  
83 Gnome Wall
-
HS 4a 1
84 Gnome Wall
-
V 7 *  
85 The Gash
-
VD  
86 The Gash
-
III 4  
87 Gashtrognome
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(East Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
89 Icefall Start
-
V 5 3
90 Mango
-
VS 1
91 The Chimney
-
VI 7 **  
92 Bloodstone Start
-
S 2
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(East Buttress-quartzite tiers)
94 East Buttress
-
D *** 111
95 East Buttress
-
IV 5 *** 112
96 East Buttress (Left Hand) VD 1
97 East Buttress (Left Hand)
-
V 5  
98 East Central Gully
-
III * 3
99 East Central Gully, Direct start
-
V 4 * 7
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Central Wall)
101 East Central Ribs
-
S 4a  
102 East Central Ribs
-
V 6  
103 The Cool Cleft
-
V 4 * 2
104 Assegai
-
VS 5a **  
105 Assegai
-
V 6  
106 East Wall
-
S 1
107 East Wall
-
VI 7 *  
108 Fulmar Chimneys
-
VD 1
109 East Central Wall
-
V 4 * 1
110 Patey's Direct Route
-
HS 4b ***  
111 Patey's Direct Route
-
V 6  
112 Pelican
-
S *  
113 Pelican
-
VI 6 ** 2
114 Condor Crack
-
S 6 ***  
115 Flight of the Condor
-
VII 8  
116 Flying Finish (to Central Buttress)
-
HS  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Central Buttress)
118 Central Buttress - Pigott's Route
-
S 4b ** 30
119 Central Buttress
-
VI 7 *** 55
120 Central Buttress - VS Route
-
VS *** 54
121 Longdrop Route (VS Route Direct Start) VS 4b 2
122 The Generation Game
-
E2 5c *  
123 Hamilton's Route
-
S 4a ** 33
124 Hamilton's Route
-
VI 6 ** 1
125 Central Buttress - Grade IV Line
-
IV 5 *** 2
126 Collie's Route
-
IV 5 2
127 Parker's Route
-
VD  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Central Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
129 Central Reservation
-
HVS  
130 Swinging in the Rain
-
HVS *  
131 Central Corner - Winter
-
VII 8  
132 Puddock
-
HVS *  
133 Readymix
-
S 3
134 Slab Route
-
D 2
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Central Buttress-Lower Quartzite Tier)
136 Porcine Connection
-
E1 5a  
Climb name Grade
137 Gallus
-
E1 5a  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Central Buttress-Upper Quartzite Tier)
139 Dusk
-
E1  
140 Nunn's Route IV  
141 West Central Gully
-
VIII 7 *** 1
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(West Buttress)
143 West Buttress S 4a * 6
144 West Buttress
-
IV 4 *** 63
145 Corner Finish to West Buttress
-
VS * 1
146 Corner Finish to West Buttress
-
VI 7 *  
147 Still Game VS 4c * 1
148 Still Game
-
VI 7 *  
149 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress
-
VD * 1
150 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress
-
V 6 ** 6
151 West Buttress Direttissima
-
VII 8 *** 3
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(West Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
153 Sideshow
-
HVS  
154 Cyclonic Westerly
-
E3 ** 2
155 Junior
-
E1  
156 Junior Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
157 Relayer VS  
158 Senior
-
HVS *  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(West Buttress-Quartzite Tier,West Central)
160 Maelstrom
-
HVS  
161 Maelstrom
-
VII 7 * 1
162 Balla na Gaoithe
-
HVS 5a * 1
163 Earth, Wind and Fire
-
HVS 1
164 Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears
-
VIII 8 *** 16
165 Shoot the Breeze
-
E2 *** 2
166 Shoot the Breeze (Winter) IX 8 *** 5
167 Chop Suey
-
E1  
168 Chop Suey VIII 8 **  
169 Bruised Violet VIII 8 *** 2
170 Creme de Violette IX 9 1
171 Force Ten
-
E2 ***  
172 Twilight Zone
-
E2 5c **  
173 Wall of the Winds
-
E1 * 1
174 Mistral
-
E1 *  
175 Mistral
-
VII 7 *** 5
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(West Buttress-Fuselage Wall)
177 Pension Plan
-
V 7  
178 Flying Fortress
-
VS *  
179 Flying Fortress
-
V 7 *  
180 Fuselage Wall
-
S 4a  
181 Fuselage Wall
-
V 7 *  
182 Fight or Flight V 6 ** 18
183 The Ace
-
VS 5a 1
184 The Ace
-
VI 7 ** 1
185 Bombs Away
-
V 7 1
186 Fuselage Gully
-
II * 132
187 The Upper Girdle
-
S *** 2
188 The Upper Girdle
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Far West Buttress)
190 Far West Buttress
-
S 4a  
191 Far West Buttress
-
V 6 ** 3
192 Chocks Away V 6 1
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair(Sail Mhor)
194 Ceum Grannda
-
2 * 4
195 Morrison's Gully
-
I 21
196 White's Gully (No.3 Gully)
-
II 1
197 Smears for Fears V 4 ** 1
  Sgurr Nan Fhir Duibhe
199 The Black Carls 1 * 34
200 The Black Carls of Beinn Eighe I/II * 3
  Unsorted
202 Missing The Cut IV 6 ** 1

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