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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 193
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 650m a.s.l
Faces N

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First light on Beinn Eighe © jameshiggins

Crag features

The Triple Buttresses of Beinn Eighe, located in the stunning Coire Mhic Fherchair (pronounced byn ae and corry vic ere kair) and is one of the most impressive cliffs in Scotland. The sandstone buttresses are capped by large quartzite cliffs.

Theres an array of classic summer rock and steep mixed climbs as well as some long mounteering journeys. 

Approach notes

Beinn Eighe is a nature reserve on National Trust for Scotland land.

As does Grooving High
Captain Solo - 28/May/11
The Pale Diedre appears twice ^
Andy Moles - 15/May/11
henry mcelroy about 12 hrs to do all three finishing in torridon!
pierro - 26/Nov/06
Do not expect easy routefinding on Central Buttress; every one that climbs it seems to find a different line. And don't go near it if you don't know you can finish it; retreat would be a loose nightmare.
Jamie B. - 04/Oct/05
sorry to see there is no comments, we were looking at walking this at the end of august, setting off from kinlochewe and finishing at torridon how long do you think it will take at an average pace?
henry mcelroy - 07/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Far East Wall)
2 Nightcap Groove (Summer)
-
HVS 5b  
3 Nightcap Groove (Winter)
-
VI 7  
4 Morning Wall
-
VS  
5 Sidewinder (Summer)
-
S 4a  
6 Sidewinder (Winter)
-
V 6  
7 Glow Worm
-
V 6 *  
8 Sting (Summer)
-
HVS * 1
9 Sting (Winter)
-
VII 7 ** 1
10 Sting Direct
-
E1  
11 Sunscream
-
E5 * 2
12 Moonshine
-
E4 *** 13
13 Angel Face
-
E2 5c *** 65
14 Seeds of Destruction
-
E3 5c *** 11
15 The Reaper
-
E2 ** 3
16 Sundance (Summer)
-
E2 *  
17 Sundance (Winter) VIII 8 *** 19
18 The Root of all Evil (Summer)
-
E2 *  
19 The Root of All Evil (Winter) IX 8  
20 Hydroponicum (Summer)
-
HVS  
21 Hydroponicum
-
VIII 8 ** 1
22 Crazy Eyes VIII 9 *** 2
23 Meccano
-
E3  
24 Rudolf
-
E2 1
25 Rudolf (Winter) VIII  
26 Colgarra
-
E3 ** 4
27 Immortal Memory
-
IX 9 *** 2
28 One Step Beyond IX 9  
29 King of the Swingers
-
E3 **  
30 King of the Swingers (Winter) VIII 10  
31 Vishnu
-
VII 6 *** 2
32 One Man’s Mountain VIII 8  
33 The Rising Son
-
E2 **  
34 Daughter of the Dawn
-
E3 ** 2
35 Kami-kaze (Summer)
-
VS 4b *  
36 Kami-kaze (Winter)
-
VI 7 *** 27
37 New World Order E6 6b ***  
38 Fascist Groove Thang
-
E7 ** 1
39 Birth of the Cool
-
E1 *  
40 Ling Dynasty (Alternative Start) E6 6b **  
41 Ling Dynasty
-
E5 *** 8
42 Groovin' High
-
E1 *** 78
43 Sumo
-
E3 *** 29
44 Body Heat
-
E4 * 1
45 Body Swerve
-
E4 * 1
46 Karaoke Wall
-
HVS  
47 Epilogue
-
VS 5a  
48 Divine Ambition
-
E1  
49 Far East Gully
-
III 5  
50 The Trundler
-
HVS 5a 1
  Triple Buttress - Eastern Ramparts
52 Cornice Groove (Summer)
-
VS 1
53 Cornice Groove (Winter)
-
VI 7 * 1
54 Corniced Arete
-
VS  
55 The Modern Idiot
-
E1  
56 The Morden Idiot (Winter) VIII 8 ** 2
57 Olympus (Summer)
-
VS 4c * 3
58 Olympus (Winter)
-
VII 8  
59 Claustrophobic Corner
-
E1 5b *  
60 Irony IX 9 *** 2
61 The Ho Chi Min Trail
-
E2 ***  
62 Heavy Flak
-
E1 *  
63 Heavy Flak (Winter) VIII 8  
64 The Great Wall of China
-
E3  
65 Turkish Delight
-
E3 5c ** 4
66 Feast of the East
-
E1 *  
67 Feast of the East (Winter) VIII 9 *** 3
68 Eastern Promise (Summer)
-
VS *  
69 Eastern Promise (Winter)
-
VI 7 ** 5
70 Seige Tactics
-
E1  
71 Rampart Wall (Summer)
-
HVS ** 1
Climb name Grade
72 Rampart Wall (Winter)
-
VII 8 *** 8
73 Pale Rider (Summer)
-
E1 ** 11
74 Pale Rider (Winter) VIII 9 *** 2
75 Paleface Wall
-
E3 *  
76 The Pale Diedre
-
E2 *** 33
77 Boggle (Summer) E1 *** 2
78 Boggle (Winter)
-
VIII 8 *** 5
79 Tainted Galahad
-
E2 ** 1
80 Rampage
-
E2  
81 The Unknown Soldier
-
E1 * 1
82 The Unknown Warrior
-
VII 7 *  
83 Forgotten Warrior
-
HVS *  
84 Samurai (Summer)
-
HVS  
85 Samurai (Winter)
-
VII 7 * 4
86 Simpleton
-
HVS * 1
87 Shang-High (Summer)
-
HVS  
88 Shang-High (Winter) VII 7 *** 24
89 Fear of the Dark
-
E1 5b * 1
90 Scotophobia VII 8 * 2
91 Fear of the Cold and Dark VIII 8 **  
92 The Tower of Darkness
-
E4 *  
93 Fairytale Groove (Summer)
-
HVS 5a *  
94 Fairytale Groove (Winter)
-
VII 8 2
95 Happy Ever After
-
E1  
96 Gnome Wall (Summer)
-
HS 4a  
97 Gnome Wall (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
98 The Gash (Summer)
-
VD  
99 The Gash
-
III 4  
100 Gashtrognome
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (East Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
102 Icefall Start V 5 3
103 Mango
-
VS  
104 The Chimney
-
VI 7 **  
105 Bloodstone Start
-
S 1
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (East Buttress-quartzite tiers)
107 East Buttress Left-hand (Summer) VD 1
108 East Buttress Left-hand (Winter)
-
V 5  
109 East Buttress (Summer)
-
D *** 129
110 East Buttress (Winter) IV 5 *** 125
111 East Central Gully III * 4
112 East Central Gully, Direct start V 4 8
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Wall)
114 East Central Ribs (Summer)
-
S 4a  
115 East Central Ribs (Winter)
-
V 6  
116 The Cool Cleft V 5 ** 2
117 Assegai (Summer)
-
VS 5a **  
118 Assegai (Winter)
-
V 6  
119 East Wall (Summer)
-
S  
120 East Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
121 Fulmar Chimneys
-
VD  
122 East Central Wall IV 5 ** 1
123 Patey's Direct Route (Summer)
-
HS 4b ***  
124 Patey's Direct Route (Winter)
-
V 6  
125 Pelican (Summer)
-
S *  
126 Pelican (Winter) VI 6 *** 3
127 Condor Crack
-
S 6 ***  
128 Flight of the Condor
-
VII 8  
129 Flying Finish (to Central Buttress)
-
HS  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress)
131 Central Buttress (Summer)
-
VS *** 91
132 Central Buttress (Winter) VI 7 *** 60
133 Longdrop Route (VS Route Direct Start) VS 4b 2
134 The Generation Game
-
E2 5c *  
135 Hamilton's Route (Summer)
-
S 4a ** 39
136 Hamilton's Route (Winter) VI 6 ** 3
137 Central Buttress - Grade IV Line IV 5 *** 2
138 Collie's Route
-
IV 5 2
139 Parker's Route
-
VD  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
141 Central Reservation
-
HVS  
142 Swinging in the Rain
-
HVS *  
Climb name Grade
143 Central Corner
-
VII 8  
144 Puddock
-
HVS *  
145 Readymix
-
S 3
146 Slab Route
-
D 4
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Lower Quartzite Tier)
148 Porcine Connection
-
E1 5a  
149 Gallus
-
E1 5a  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Central Buttress-Upper Quartzite Tier)
151 Dusk
-
E1  
152 Nunn's Route IV  
153 Missing The Cut IV 6 ** 1
154 West Central Gully VII 8 *** 1
155 West Buttress (Summer) S 4a * 7
156 West Buttress (Winter) IV 5 *** 76
157 Corner Finish to West Buttress (Summer)
-
VS * 1
158 Corner Finish to West Buttress (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
159 Still Game (Summer) VS 4c * 1
160 Still Game (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
161 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 1
162 Right Hand Finish to West Buttress (Winter)
-
V 6 ** 6
163 West Buttress Direttissima VII 8 *** 3
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Sandstone Tier)
165 Sideshow
-
HVS  
166 Cyclonic Westerly
-
E3 ** 2
167 Junior
-
E1 1
168 Junior Direct Start
-
E3 5c  
169 Relayer VS  
170 Senior
-
HVS *  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Quartzite Tier)
172 Maelstrom (Summer)
-
HVS  
173 Maelstrom (Winter) VII 7 1
174 Balla na Gaoithe
-
HVS 5a * 1
175 Earth, Wind and Fire
-
HVS 1
176 Blood, Sweat and Frozen Tears VIII 8 *** 18
177 Shoot the Breeze (Summer) E2 *** 5
178 Shoot the Breeze (Winter) IX 8 *** 5
179 Chop Suey (Summer)
-
E1  
180 Chop Suey (Winter) VIII 8 **  
181 Bruised Violet VIII 8 *** 2
182 Creme de Violette IX 9 1
183 Force Ten
-
E2 ***  
184 Twilight Zone
-
E2 5c **  
185 Wall of the Winds
-
E1 * 1
186 Mistral (Summer)
-
E1 *  
187 Mistral (Winter)
-
VII 7 *** 5
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (West Buttress-Fuselage Wall)
189 Pension Plan
-
V 7  
190 Flying Fortress (Summer)
-
VS *  
191 Flying Fortress (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
192 Fuselage Wall (Summer)
-
S 4a  
193 Fuselage Wall (Winter) V 6 *  
194 Fight or Flight V 6 ** 27
195 The Ace (Summer)
-
VS 5a 1
196 The Ace (Winter)
-
VI 7 ** 1
197 Bombs Away
-
V 7 1
198 Fuselage Gully II ** 144
199 The Upper Girdle (Summer)
-
S *** 2
200 The Upper Girdle (Winter)
-
VI 7 **  
  Coire Mhic Fhearchair (Far West Buttress)
202 Far West Buttress (Summer)
-
S 4a  
203 Far West Buttress (Winter)
-
V 6 ** 3
204 Chocks Away V 6 1
  Sgurr Nan Fhir Duibhe
206 The Black Carls (Summer) 1 * 33
207 The Black Carls (Winter) I/II * 19
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Triple Buttress - Fuselage Wall
  Triple Buttress - Central Wall
  Triple Buttress - East Buttress
  Triple Buttress - West Central Wall & West Buttress

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