Climbs 156
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 49m a.s.l

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Tom H leading pitch 2 of Prozac Link © Si Witcher

Crag features

The Coastline running north from Mangersta Sands presents the highest concentration of developed sea cliffs on the island.

Approach notes

Access from Magersta village and the RAF radio station.

Superb location and good rock on recognised routes. We did a bit of exploring on the other rock and found some very dodgy rock in places.
CyberTaff - 15/May/13
The location of most of the listed climbs is marked on th OS Map 13 as Aird Mor Mangurstadh 000328. The cliff are complex in detail with several zawns giving access to the bottom of routes like Transatlantic Crossing and the Flannen Slab area. Park at the old Air Force building at 004334
Tony Martyr - 01/Jan/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Rabbit Walls
2 The Ecclesall Road E2 5b ***  
  PAINTED GEO
  Painted Black Wall
5 Stripper S 4a * 2
6 Black Foot E2 5c **  
7 Vein Hope E2 5c **  
8 Feint Chance E2 5b **  
  Lower Painted Wall - The Friendly Wall
10 A Stretch in Time E2 5c * 2
11 Fangs for the Memory
-
VS 4c ** 1
12 Torn Away E1 5b * 2
13 High Fidelity E2 5b * 6
14 Northern Rock E2 5b * 2
15 Friends Provident E3 5c * 4
  Painted Wall
17 Mick's Corner
-
VS 4c ** 6
18 Pink and Black
-
E4 5c ** 5
19 Director's Corner
-
VS 5a *  
20 Wireless in Wanderland
-
E4 5c **  
21 Dauntless
-
E5 6a *** 20
22 Goodbye Ruby Tuesday
-
E5 6b *** 11
23 Gravity Man
-
E2 5b ** 27
24 The Painted Wall
-
E4 5c *** 41
25 Whisky Galore
-
E5 6a ** 3
26 The Dreaded Dram
-
E4 5c *** 15
27 Tigger
-
E6 6b *** 1
28 Gneiss is Nice
-
E4 5c **  
  TORASGEO
30 Argonaut
-
HVS 5a ** 9
31 Triton
-
E1 5b *** 9
32 Palace of Colchis
-
E1 5b *** 10
33 Air Time E2 5c ** 1
34 The Black Carrot
-
E3 5c *** 1
35 Bosphorus Groove
-
HVS 5a  
36 Symplagades
-
E1 5b *  
  Veinous Wall
38 Veinous Trap HVS 5a ** 1
  AURORA GEO
40 Grand Central
-
E1 5b ** 1
41 Great Northern
-
E2 5c ** 1
42 Wonder Wall
-
E4 6a **  
43 Newton's Law
-
E1 5b *** 10
44 Star of the Sea
-
E1 5b ** 13
45 Romancing the Moose
-
E5 6a *** 1
46 Should Have Gone to Kilnsey E6 6b ** 1
47 The Pie Party E2 5b ** 1
48 President's Chimney
-
VD ** 1
49 Immaculate Crack
-
HS 4b **  
50 Things are Looking Up
-
E3 5c ** 6
51 Roaring Foam
-
E3 5c *** 12
52 Ocean View
-
E3 5c *  
53 Cioch Crack
-
VS 4c * 3
54 Poultry in Motion
-
E2 5b ** 4
55 Chicken Run
-
E1 5c *** 14
56 Chicken Run Indirect HVS 5a ** 4
57 Look Back In Anger
-
E3 6a *  
58 Don't Look Now
-
E2 6a **  
Climb name Grade
59 The Vee
-
VS 4c ** 1
60 Black Friday
-
E2 5b *  
61 Gannet Crack
-
MVS 5b *  
62 The Zed
-
HS 4b *  
  MAGIC GEO
64 Mind the Leg Jam VS 4c ** 1
65 Flannan Chimney Right-Hand S 4a * 6
66 Flannan Crack
-
VS 4c ** 40
67 Campa Crack
-
E1 5a ** 16
68 Gas
-
E3 5b *  
69 Limka
-
E2 5b ** 6
70 Flannan Slab Left
-
HVS 5a *** 11
71 Flannan Slab Direct
-
E1 5b *** 10
72 Bubbles HVS 5a *** 3
73 Flannan Slab
-
VS 4c *** 20
74 Kissing the Pink E2 5b  
75 The Crimebusters of the Sea
-
E5 6a **  
76 The Eagle Has Landed
-
E6 6b **  
77 Queen's Freebie
-
E4 6b *  
78 The Magician
-
E5 6a *** 2
79 The Sorcerer
-
E4 6a **  
80 Gimp Route
-
E4 5c **  
81 The Alchemist
-
E4 6a * 1
82 Am Burach
-
E4 6a * 2
83 Island Life
-
VS 5a ** 6
84 Island Fling
-
VS 5a ** 2
85 Solitary Chimneys
-
D * 7
86 Pomarine
-
E2 5b * 3
87 Bonxie
-
E3 5c ** 1
88 Blackladder Crack E1 5b * 2
89 Last Orders
-
HVS 5a *  
90 The Black Crack
-
E1 5a *  
91 Too Wild for Feral Fyffe
-
E4 6a *  
92 The Hooded Claw
-
E2 5c **  
93 A Night at the Opera
-
HVS 5a **  
  Hunter's Slabs
95 Petit Dru
-
VD ** 2
96 The Walkers Spur VD ** 2
97 Hunter’s Slab
-
S 4b ** 1
98 Hunter’s Edge
-
S 4b ** 1
  Atlantic Crossing Headland
100 Atlantic Crossing VS 5a *** 6
101 Friends E1 5b *  
102 North-West Passage E1 5b **  
103 Transatlantic Fright E4 6a 1
104 Scooby Rhu E1 5a **  
105 Waiting for the Crossing
-
VD ** 1
106 Atlantic Bimbling D * 1
107 Mr Pudding D 1
  Seal Bay
109 Sunset Rib D * 5
  SCREAMING GEO
  Mangersta Slabs and Lower Tier West Face
112 Penny Whistle
-
E3 5c **  
113 Hundred Pipers
-
E3 5c ** 2
114 Claymore
-
HVS 5a ** 16
115 Moscow Mule
-
E2 5b ** 11
116 Singapore Sling
-
E2 5c ** 2
Climb name Grade
117 I'll Try Up Here Again
-
E1 5b * 1
  Upper Tier West Face
119 Right Track VD * 3
120 Left Track VD * 1
121 Katrin's Cream
-
S 4a * 17
122 Screaming Miss Molly
-
VS 4b * 15
123 Screaming Sandhoppers
-
S 4a * 13
124 Inner Demons
-
HVS 5a * 14
125 Rubik E1 5a * 2
126 Lady Mariposa HVS 5a * 1
127 Ruble E2 5a * 1
128 Perky
-
VS 4b * 9
129 Pinky
-
HVS 5a * 14
130 North West Arête E3 6a 3
  Upper Tier North-West Face
132 It's Raining Rocks!
-
E3 6a * 14
133 In the Shop on the Hill
-
E2 5c * 2
134 Whirlwind
-
E8 6c **  
135 Bothy House Crack
-
E2 5b *  
  Upper Tier West Face
137 Great Gig in the Sky
-
E4 6a 1
138 Hughy's Cocktail Mixture
-
E3 5c ** 18
139 Paranoid Slippers
-
E4 6b ** 4
140 Exit Point
-
E7 6c ***  
141 Shadow Dancer
-
E7 6b ***  
  Lower Tier North-West Face
143 If all Else Fails
-
VD ** 1
144 If All Else Fails Direct Finish
-
E1 5b * 1
145 Hullabaloo
-
E6 6b  
146 Hullabaloo Left-Foot
-
E5 6a *  
147 Suffering Bastard
-
E4 6a *** 15
148 Killer Fingers
-
E5 6a * 13
149 Rat's Don't Eat Sandwiches
-
E4 6a *** 2
150 Salty Dog
-
E5 6a *** 5
151 Damn Your Eyes!
-
E4 5c *  
  Screaming Wall West Face
153 The Screaming Abdabs
-
E6 6b *** 2
154 The Prozac Link
-
E4 5c *** 42
155 Distant Voices
-
E5 6b ** 1
156 The Crystal Maze
-
E6 6b ***  
157 Grant's Bad Hair Day
-
E2 5b *** 18
158 The Dark Crystal
-
E2 5b ** 3
159 Necromancer
-
E3 5c ** 4
160 The Wailing Wall
-
E4 6a *** 4
161 Screamadelica E3 5c ***  
162 Abracadabra VD ** 2
163 Lighthouse Arête
-
HS 4b ** 11
164 Over The Top
-
HVS 5a ** 2
165 Port a'Bheul
-
VS 4c *  
166 The Heebie-Jeebies
-
E1 5b *** 15
167 Deadman's Chest E3 5c *** 1
  unconfirmed
169 Paraphernalia
-
E3 5c * 1
170 Just a Wee Crack VD **  
171 The Prow
-
VS 4c * 1
172 The Quiet Man
-
VS 4b *  
173 Sea Pink * E3 5c ***  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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