UKC

Climbs 140
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 49m a.s.l

Tom H leading pitch 2 of Prozac Link © Si Witcher

Crag features

The Coastline running north from Mangersta Sands presents the highest concentration of developed sea cliffs on the island.

Approach notes

Access from Magersta village and the RAF radio station.

Superb location and good rock on recognised routes. We did a bit of exploring on the other rock and found some very dodgy rock in places.
CyberTaff - 15/May/13
The location of most of the listed climbs is marked on th OS Map 13 as Aird Mor Mangurstadh 000328. The cliff are complex in detail with several zawns giving access to the bottom of routes like Transatlantic Crossing and the Flannen Slab area. Park at the old Air Force building at 004334
Tony Martyr - 01/Jan/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  PAINTED GEO
2 Mick's Corner
-
VS 4c ** 4
3 Pink and Black
-
E4 5c ** 1
4 Director's Corner
-
VS 5a *  
5 Wireless in Wanderland
-
E4 5c **  
6 Dauntless
-
E5 6a *** 13
7 Goodbye Ruby Tuesday
-
E5 6b *** 8
8 Gravity Man
-
E2 5b ** 13
9 The Painted Wall
-
E4 5c *** 21
10 Whisky Galore
-
E5 6a ** 1
11 The Dreaded Dram
-
E4 5c *** 5
12 Gneiss is Nice
-
E4 5c **  
13 Black Foot E2 6a **  
14 Tigger
-
E6 6b ***  
15 The Prow
-
VS 4c * 1
16 Feint Chance E2 5b *  
17 High Fidelity E2 5b 2
18 Vein Hope E2 5c *  
  Torasgeo
20 Argonaut
-
HVS 5a ** 4
21 Triton
-
E1 5b *** 5
22 Air Time E2 5c ** 1
23 Palace of Colchis
-
E1 5b *** 5
24 The Black Carrot
-
E3 5c *** 1
25 Bosphorus Groove
-
HVS 5a  
26 Symplagades
-
E1 5b *  
27 Ein Schiff voller Narren
-
E5 6b **  
28 Das Boat
-
E4 6a ***  
  Flannan Area
30 Petit Dru *
-
VD ** 2
  Aurora Geo
32 Grand Central
-
E1 5b **  
33 Great Northern
-
E2 5c **  
34 Wonder Wall
-
E4 6a **  
35 Newton's Law
-
E1 5b *** 7
36 Star of the Sea
-
E1 5b ** 8
37 Romancing the Moose
-
E5 6a *** 1
38 Should Have Gone to Kilnsey E6 6b ** 1
39 The Pie Party E2 5b ** 1
40 President's Chimney
-
VD ** 1
41 Immaculate Crack
-
HS 4b **  
42 Things are Looking Up
-
E3 5c **  
43 Roaring Foam
-
E3 5c *** 6
44 Ocean View
-
E3 5c *  
45 Cioch Crack
-
VS 4c * 1
46 Chicken Run
-
E1 5b *** 6
47 Poultry in Motion
-
E2 5b ** 4
48 Chicken Run Direct
-
HVS 5b ** 3
49 Look Back In Anger
-
E3 6a *  
Climb name Grade
50 Black Affronted
-
E2 5c *  
51 Don't Look Now
-
E2 6a **  
52 The Vee
-
VS 4c ** 1
53 Gannet Crack
-
MVS 5b *  
54 The Zed
-
HS 4b *  
  Magic Geo
56 Mind the Leg Jam VS 4c ** 1
57 Flannan Chimneys S 4a * 6
58 Flannan Crack
-
VS 4c ** 34
59 Campa Crack
-
E1 5a ** 8
60 Gas
-
E3 5b *  
61 Limka
-
E2 5b ** 5
62 Flannan Slab Left
-
HVS 5a *** 11
63 Flannan Slab Direct
-
E1 5b *** 8
64 Flannan Slab
-
VS 4c *** 20
65 Kissing the Pink E2 5b  
66 Queen's Freebie
-
E4 6b *  
67 The Crimebusters of the Sea
-
E5 6a **  
68 The Eagle Has Landed
-
E6 6b **  
69 The Magician
-
E5 6a *** 2
70 The Sorcerer
-
E4 6a **  
71 Gimp Route
-
E4 5c **  
72 The Alchemist
-
E4 6a * 1
73 Am Burach
-
E4 6a * 2
74 Island Life
-
S 4a ** 5
75 Island Fling
-
VS 5a ** 2
76 Solitary Chimneys
-
D * 7
77 Pomarine
-
E2 5b * 1
78 Bonxie
-
E3 5c ** 1
79 Last Orders
-
HVS 5a *  
80 The Black Crack
-
E1 5a *  
81 Too Wild for Feral Fyffe
-
E4 6a *  
82 The Hooded Claw
-
E2 5c **  
83 A Night at the Opera
-
HVS 5a **  
  Ard More Mangersta
85 Atlantic Bimbling D * 1
86 Mr Pudding D 1
87 Atlantic Crossing VS 5a *** 3
88 Friends E1 5b *  
89 North-West Passage E1 5b **  
90 Scooby Rhu E1 5a **  
91 Waiting for the Crossing
-
VD ** 1
92 Sunset Rib D * 4
93 Transatlantic Fright E4 6a 1
  Mangersta
95 Lighthouse ArĂȘte
-
HS 4b ** 9
96 Abracadabra VD ** 2
97 Deadman's Chest E3 5c *** 1
98 The Heebie-Jeebies
-
E1 5b *** 11
Climb name Grade
99 Port a'Bheul
-
VS 4c *  
100 The Quiet Man
-
VS 4b *  
101 Screamadelica E3 5c ***  
102 The Wailing Wall
-
E4 6a ***  
103 Necromancer
-
E3 5c ** 3
104 The Dark Crystal
-
E2 5b ** 2
105 Grant's Bad Hair Day
-
E2 5b *** 9
106 The Crystal Maze
-
E6 6b ***  
107 Distant Voices
-
E5 6b ** 1
108 The Screaming Abdabs
-
E6 6b *** 2
109 The Prozac Link
-
E4 5c *** 22
110 Shadow Dancer
-
E7 6b ***  
111 Paranoid Slippers
-
E4 6b ** 2
112 Exit Point
-
E7 6c ***  
113 Hughie's Cocktail Mixture
-
E3 5c ** 3
114 Great Gig in the Sky
-
E4 6a 1
115 Bothy House Crack
-
E2 5b *  
116 Whirlwind
-
E8 6c **  
117 In the Shop on the Hill
-
E2 5c * 2
118 It's Raining Rocks!
-
E3 6a * 5
119 North West ArĂȘte E3 6a 3
120 Pinky
-
HVS 5a * 14
121 Perky
-
VS 4b * 9
122 Lady Mariposa HVS 5a * 1
123 Ruble E2 5a * 1
124 Rubik E1 5a * 2
125 Inner Demons
-
HVS 5a * 11
126 Screaming Sandhoppers
-
S 4a * 13
127 Screaming Miss Molly
-
VS 4b * 14
128 Katrin's Dream
-
S 4a * 17
129 Damn Your Eyes!
-
E4 5c *  
130 Salty Dog
-
E5 6a *** 4
131 Rat's Don't Eat Sandwiches
-
E4 6a ***  
132 Killer Fingers
-
E5 6a * 6
133 Suffering Bastard
-
E4 6a *** 7
134 Hullabaloo
-
E6 6b  
135 Hullabaloo Left-Foot
-
E5 6a *  
136 If all Else Fails
-
VD ** 1
137 If All Else Fails Direct Finish
-
E1 5b *  
138 I'll Try Up Here Again
-
E1 5b *  
139 Penny Whistle
-
E3 5c **  
140 Hundred Pipers
-
E3 5c ** 2
141 Singapore Sling
-
E2 5c ** 2
142 Moscow Mule
-
E2 5b ** 7
143 Claymore
-
HVS 5a ** 15
144 Paraphernalia
-
E3 5c * 1
145 Just a Wee Crack VD **  
146 Right Track VD * 1
147 Left Track VD * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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