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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 60
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 589m a.s.l
Faces all

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Rough Rider on a perfect day © frecro

Crag features

All of the climbs are located on the prominent granite tor at the top of the hill, located in the picturesque Glen Dye, near Deeside, Aberdeenshire. This rocky lump is a distinguishing feature from all the other round topped hills in the area. The tor provides short routes up to 30m on good, well protected granite.

Approach notes

Banchory is the main town in the area.

From the north - take the B974 south towards the village of Strachan, and continue left over the bridge, staying on the B974 (The Old Military Road). The carpark for Clachnaben is on the right-hand side, approximately 5 miles from leaving Strachan.

From the east - take the A90 south, until a right turn onto the B966 which will take you through Fordoun. At a crossroads, follow the sign to Fettercairn, taking the right hand turn. At the junction in the village, take the left onto the B974, which will take you past a tearoom on the left hand side, at the bottom of a steep section of the road. ('Clattering Brig' tearoom). the carpark for Clachnaben is locate approximately 5 miles along this road, on the left-hand side.

From the south - from the A90 near Brechin, follow signs for Edzell on the B966. Continue on this road until Fettercairn, then follow the directions above as from the East.

Guidebooks

It might be useful for somebody: Clach na Beinn Climbing topo: http://myftp.e-smolinski.com/topos/Clach na Beinn - Climbing Topo.pdf
Tomek S - 29/Dec/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Clachnaben summit
-
summit 21
2 No 2 Gully (Summer)
-
VD 18
3 No 2 Gully (Winter) III 4 * 12
4 Viper Cracks
-
HVS 5a 10
5 Python Cracks
-
VD * 66
6 Python Cracks Direct Start
-
VD 4c 34
7 No 1 Chimney
-
VD *** 155
8 Cairngorm Club Crack
-
S ** 166
9 Man Eater HVS 5a 23
10 Gnasher
-
E1 5b ** 23
11 Rough Rider
-
HVS 5a ** 66
12 Twinkletoes
-
E1 5b ** 8
13 Erk
-
E3 5b ** 11
14 Yikes
-
VS 4c * 22
15 Stuffer
-
HS 4b 22
16 Micro Rib
-
VS 4b 8
17 Micro Line (Summer) VD 15
18 Micro Line (Winter) III 5 2
19 Flip Flop HVS 5b 4
20 Keepy Uppy
-
HVS 5c 3
Climb name Grade
21 Fissure Feugh
-
VS 4b * 22
22 North End II 1
23 Snotty Wotty
-
VS 5a 6
24 Twilight Zone
-
VS 4c * 17
25 Silver Rib
-
E2 5b * 8
26 Square Chimney (Summer)
-
VD * 39
27 Square Chimney (Winter) IV 6 ** 7
28 Sgoiltean na Lamhan Fuilteach
-
E1 5b * 3
29 Bolero
-
VS 4c ** 24
30 Blawearie's Secret
-
HVS 5a 3
31 Central Gully (Summer)
-
VD 7
32 Central Gully (Winter) IV 4 2
33 Flypaper
-
VS 4c 4
34 Bogendreip Buttress
-
HVS 5a *** 66
35 Glen Dye Slab E4 6b ** 1
36 Owl's Crack HVS 5b ***  
37 Crack o' the Mearns
-
VS 4c *** 88
38 Solus ' s na h-Uamhan
-
S ** 14
39 Hell's Bells
-
E1 5c * 5
40 Hell Cat
-
VS 5a 3
Climb name Grade
41 Window Gully (Summer)
-
HS 4b 2
42 Window Gully (Winter)
-
IV 6 * 5
43 Sunset Rib
-
HS 4a 4
44 Cave Crack
-
HS 4a * 4
45 Platform Climb (Summer)
-
D ** 63
46 Platform Climb (Winter)
-
III 5 5
47 Outside Left
-
D 23
48 Inside Left
-
VD 23
49 Striker
-
HS 4a * 49
50 Inside Right
-
HS 20
51 Pink Slab Variation HS 6
52 Outside Right VS 4c 7
53 Outline
-
HS * 24
54 Eagle Buttress
-
D 12
55 Flakesville
-
S 16
56 Flakemania
-
VD 21
57 Southeast Gully (Summer)
-
M 28
58 Southeast Gully (Winter)
-
II/III 8
59 Vimy Ridge VS 4c * 13
60 Southern Groove II 1

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