UKC

Climbs 118
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

whipper for milky © Tom Russell

Crag features

The quick-drying Craig an t'Seabhaig at the Pass of Ballater provides some brilliant, steep climbs on generally excellent Cairngorm Granite.
Popular with Aberdonians - excellent wet weather alternative if Creag an Dubh Loch and Lochnagar are shrouded in cloud.
Surrounding woodland provides interesting flora and fauna - esp. ants.
Climbing possible Mar-Dec.
Must-dos: Peels Wall (E4 6a), Rattlesnake (E3 6a), Anger and Lust (E2 5c), Smith's Arete (E5 6a), Lucky Strike (VS 4c), Little Cenotaph (HVS 5b)

Approach notes

Erosion is a problem - please keep to obvious paths.

Access Advice

May 17 - For the next couple of months, please avoid Jumbled Blocks Crack (and preferably the routes to either side) as a nesting pine marten with young has taken up residence.

 

Erosion is a problem - please keep to obvious paths.

October 17 - Pine marten nesting season is over. Crag is clear for access.

Nesting birds with chicks at the top out of Giant Flake Route at present.
Lamb - 20/May/14
who keeps stealing the screwgate from the ab tat around the tree above blutered/giant flake route etc? please stop it. its petty and cheap.
mulletcocktail2000 - 16/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  WESTERN SECTION UPPER TIER
2 The Joke
-
E3 6b  
3 Janus
-
E4 6b ** 16
4 Cheap Trick
-
E4 6b * 1
5 Left Hand Crack
-
VS 4c 167
6 Right Hand Crack
-
HVS 5a 127
7 Right Hand Crack Variation Finish E2 5b 28
8 Original Route
-
VS 5a ** 405
9 Fingerwrecker
-
HVS 5c * 58
10 Wrecker's Traverse E3 5c ** 18
11 Peel's Wall
-
E4 6a *** 99
12 Peel's Wall - Right Hand Finish
-
E4 6a ** 5
13 Lines' Hybrid E7 6c **  
14 Smith's Arete
-
E5 6a *** 34
15 Idiot Nation E5 6b  
16 Dod's Dead Cat E2 5c * 108
17 Little Cenotaph
-
HVS 5b ** 475
18 Pink Wall HVS 5a ** 240
19 Green Laughter
-
HVS 5b 53
20 Flibbertigibbet
-
VS 4c 70
21 Green Wall
-
HVS 5a 10
22 Swine Before Pearls
-
VS 4c 20
23 Jackdaw Groove
-
HVS 4c 34
24 Jackdaw's Edge E3 5c 5
25 Crumbling Dice E2 5c 39
26 Black Custard - left hand start
-
E3 5c 3
27 Black Custard
-
E1 5b *** 394
28 High Steppa
-
E2 6a ** 87
29 First Slip
-
HVS 5a 46
30 Jam Crack
-
S * 117
  WESTERN SECTION MIDDLE TIER
32 BO
-
VD 58
33 Swivel Head
-
D 127
34 Rightguard
-
D 111
35 Aftershave
-
S 161
36 Aftershave Direct Finish HS 4b * 26
37 Skidmarks
-
HVS 5b 12
38 Razor's Crack
-
VS 4c * 395
39 Razor Back E2 5c 4
40 Jumbled Blocks Crack
-
VD 488
41 Ping Pong
-
S 525
Climb name Grade
42 Close Shave HVS 5a 82
43 Brut
-
VS 5a 330
44 Brutal E1 5c 5
45 Stinker
-
E1 5b ** 294
46 Fungus Face
-
E1 5b 105
47 Cowardie-Custard HVS 5a 96
48 Lime Chimney
-
VD 352
49 Ton Ton Macoute
-
E5 6b 19
50 Juniper Crush E5 6a 5
51 Cavemen Go Clubbing E4 5c 1
52 Lucky Strike
-
VS 4c *** 549
53 She's Not So Special E1 5b 4
54 Pretzel Logic
-
E3 5c ** 80
55 Dubh Clais E4 6a  
56 Rattlesnake
-
E3 6b *** 40
57 Rattlesnake High Start E2 5c 8
58 Supercreeps
-
E1 5b * 50
59 Scary Monsters
-
VS 4c * 33
60 Silent Spring
-
E1 5a ** 123
61 Silent Spring Direct Start
-
E2 5c 1
62 Medium Cool
-
VS 4c ** 271
  WESTERN SECTION LOWER TIER
64 Wiry Masters
-
HVS 4c 14
65 Tough's Brush E2 5a 12
66 Snowflakes E2 5b 5
67 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters
-
E1 5b 6
68 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters Direct Finish
-
E2 6a * 3
69 The Dance of the Wu-Li Masters Right-Hand Finish
-
HVS 5b  
  CENTRAL SECTION
71 Private Parts E6 6b ** 3
72 Captain Copout
-
E4 6a ** 12
73 General Anaesthetic E5 6c ** 4
74 Local Anaesthetic E4 6a **  
75 Isolation
-
VS 5a 16
76 The Terrorist HVS 5a 7
77 Distemper E5 6b ** 6
78 Cold Rage
-
E4 6a ** 56
79 Hot Temper E5 6b *** 11
80 Warm Love E5 6a ***  
81 Anger and Lust
-
E2 5c *** 185
82 Anger and Lust Right-Hand Finish
-
E4 6b *** 17
Climb name Grade
83 Lech Gates E4 5c ** 42
84 Orage E3 6b 1
85 Bottle of Smoke E4 6a * 3
86 Creak and Squeak
-
HVS 5a 29
87 Mandrax
-
VS 4c 29
88 The Splits
-
HVS 5b 77
89 Giant Flake Route
-
VS 4b * 263
90 Convoy
-
VS 4c ** 145
91 Stoned Immaculate
-
E5 6a * 24
92 Drambo
-
E6 6a * 9
93 Drambo Direct E6 6a *** 3
94 Bluter Crack
-
E4 6c 1
95 Bluter Groove
-
E3 6b *** 28
96 Blutered
-
E1 5a *** 224
97 Demon Drink
-
E5 6b ** 26
98 Doctor Dipso
-
E4 6a * 39
99 Hangover Wall
-
E2 5c 45
100 Larup Head
-
E3 5c ** 68
101 Alcoholics Anonymous
-
E2 5b * 56
102 Bad Back Blues S 3
103 Back Slider E2 5b 11
104 Strawberry Ripple
-
VS 5a * 188
105 Plane Slider
-
E3 5b 7
  EASTERN SECTION
107 Chopped P.O.R.G.
-
VS 5a 4
108 Shivers
-
HVS 5a 8
109 Rock 'n' Roll
-
HVS 5a 14
110 The Glaswegian Problem
-
E1 5c 8
111 Press Up
-
E1 5c 3
112 Wild Thing HVS 5c * 7
113 Corvid's Chimney
-
VD 21
114 Jings
-
HVS 5b ** 13
115 Help m'Bob
-
E5 6c 1
116 Hairy Baboon
-
E2 6a ** 3
117 Fat Doris
-
E5 6b *  
118 Slender Loris
-
E1 5c 7
119 Crivvens
-
HVS 5a 5
120 Eek
-
S 21
121 Sooty
-
S 6
122 Aid My Robert
-
VD 4
123 Babylon VD ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stuart S