Climbs 144
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
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First Stackpole Experience...steep! © shoulders

Crag features

What an incredible spot; just when you thought you were all done at Pembroke, and then you discover this place! The alluring, hanging grooves of Stackpole are home to some magnificent lines, such as Silver Shadow (E2), Swordfish (E3), the mega-traverse of Plane Sailing (E3), and the amazing arete of Always the Sun (E6), along with countless other quality classics. Yet it attracts fewer visitors than you'd imagine - this has almost certainly been a combination of bird restrictions, a tidal window that gives between 2 and 4 hours of play, and lack of a good crag shot. So we've deleted one issue right here - now go there in August with a tide timetable and keep that promise to yourself!

A word of warning though: away from the main three E2/3 routes, the crag sees little traffic, in fact many may well never have had a second ascent. Treat all the routes with respect and make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for before you commit yourself to the free-hanging abseil!

Approach notes

From Stackpole Head car park take the coastal path. Abseil in, or for the determined, take the left-hand (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.

Restricted Access

ROCK FALL JANUARY 2018

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea!
Drexciyan - 30/Sep/13
Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet. When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then!
Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
  Left-hand Sector
3 The Cooler HS 4b * 16
4 Gargoyle Tube
-
HVS 5a  
5 Gargoyle Groove VS 4b * 6
6 Dolphin Pod E2 5b ** 21
7 One More Fandango E2 5b *  
8 The Banded Chink
-
E2 5c  
9 Clamshell
-
E1 5b  
10 The Mussel
-
HVS 4c  
11 Hipster
-
E4 6a  
12 Gilt Edge
-
E3 5c  
13 Mussel Up
-
E6 6b **  
14 Visions of Power
-
E5 6a  
15 Dill Meets the Rat-Burger
-
E4 6a  
16 Salty Dog E3 5c ** 10
17 Ritual Movements E7 6b *** 2
18 Fish Fingers E7 6c *** 1
19 The Whaler E2 5b ** 16
20 Brutality
-
E6 6b  
21 Immortality E5 6b *** 3
  The Main Central Sector
23 Neptune HVS 5a * 17
24 Aphrodite
-
E1 5b  
25 Pearly Gates
-
E3 5c *  
26 Always the Sun E7 6c *** 6
27 Cruise to Hell E5 6b ** 1
28 Heaven's Door E3 5c *** 72
29 The Big Sleep E3 6a * 1
30 Second Shadow E5 6a * 3
31 Iron Maiden E4 6a ** 7
32 The Top Banana
-
E6 6b *** 1
33 Loan Shark
-
E3 5c  
34 Swordfish E3 5c *** 67
35 Plane Sailing E3 5c *** 5
36 Hammerhead E5 6a ** 1
37 Silver Shadow E2 5b *** 73
38 Eternal Damnation
-
E5 6b *  
39 Break of Dawn E5 6b ** 1
40 Leap Frog E3 5c * 4
41 Dog Chorus
-
E4 6b  
42 The Aquaphibian
-
E5 6a *  
43 Toad of the Month
-
E3 6a *  
44 Under Full Sail E6 6a  
45 Tramlines E1 5b * 3
46 Oranges and Lemons E6 6c ***  
47 Utter Anarchy E6 6c *** 1
48 Puritan E2 5c *** 38
49 Parliamentarian E3 6a * 2
50 Eternal Sin
-
E5 6a  
51 Consolation E1 5b * 5
52 Red October E3 5b ** 2
53 Male Bonding E3 5c *** 2
Climb name Grade
54 Mrs Pearson's Fine Damson Jam E3 5c * 2
55 Honeypot E5 6b ** 1
56 Cavalier E2 5b 2
57 The Power of Laughter E5 6b  
  The Stackpole Grooves Sector
59 Condor E3 5c * 3
60 Not Quite Plain Sailing E3 5c  
61 The Hawk HVS 5a  
62 Shy Talk City
-
E3 5c  
63 Stackpole Grooves Direct HVS 5a ** 10
64 Think Again...
-
E4 5c  
65 Roc
-
E2 5c * 2
66 White Light
-
E2 5c *  
67 Hindsight
-
E1 5c * 2
68 Stackpole Grooves Original Start
-
E1 5a * 18
69 Crackpots Wall
-
E3 6a *  
70 Leaning Tower Chimney
-
S  
71 Leaning Tower
-
VS 4c  
72 One in Four E2 5b  
73 For God's Sake...Brake! E3 5c  
74 Adam Adamant E5 6b ***  
75 Inclination E4 6a **  
76 Out of Control E4 6b *  
77 Pisa Cake E4 6b **  
78 Contentious Green Belt Development E4 6a *  
79 The Lull Before the Storm E4 6b **  
80 Sea Eagle E1 5b * 2
81 Budgie Smuggler
-
E3 5c ** 1
  South Face
  Stackpole Cracks Wall
84 Crabwalk
-
VS 4c  
85 Tea at Mrs Weston's
-
E1 5b  
86 Type-Cast E3 6a *  
87 Thanks a Million HVS 5a  
88 Two Million Zonks E3 6a *  
89 The Whelks Have Ears E5 6a *  
90 Munching Molluscs E1 5b * 3
91 Ten Thousand Tenby Turkeys Teetering Tentatively on the Top Tier E4 6a  
92 Crunchy Copepods E1 5b 1
93 Buzzing Insects Make Me Want to Dance E4 6b 1
94 Time and Tide E3 6a ** 1
95 Oui Patron
-
E4 6a 2
96 Detective Prive E6 6b *** 1
97 Vladimir Goes to Havana E4 6a ** 5
98 Stackpole Cracks E1 5a * 16
99 Nice Surprise?
-
E4 6a **  
100 This, the Onslaught
-
E4 6a **  
  Stackpole Point
102 Anemone Anomaly E6 6b  
103 Real Analysis
-
E1 5a  
104 Almost Infinity E2 5c *  
105 The Mighty White
-
E6 6b **  
106 Sydney and Jane
-
E4 5c  
Climb name Grade
107 Eccentric Density
-
E3 5c  
108 Youthanasia
-
E4 5c  
  East Face
  Main Wall
111 A Drop in the Ocean
-
E3 5c  
112 Cold Water Music
-
E6 6b  
113 East Enders
-
E5 6a *  
114 My Heart Fails Me
-
E5 6a **  
115 Sweet Smell of Sucess
-
E5 6b ***  
116 Melon Colic
-
E3 5c * 2
117 Strawberry Grenade
-
E5 6a *  
118 Lemon Crushed
-
E7 6c *  
119 Orange Appeal
-
E4 6a  
120 Never See
-
E5 6a  
  White Pillar
122 Needle in the Groove E4 6a  
123 Inject Me E4 6a *  
124 All Quiet on the Eastern Front E5 6a *  
125 Best Easterns
-
E5 6b **  
126 Poisoned Love E3 5c 1
  Fisherman's Ledges
128 Look Before You Leap
-
E3 6a  
129 Santa's Little Helpers
-
VS 5a  
130 CaCO3 6a  
131 Hardness 3 6b *  
132 Delicate 7b+ **  
133 Troubled Mackeral 5c **  
  China Wall
135 Seoul Survivor
-
E4 5c  
136 No Peking
-
E5 6b  
137 Fu Man Chew
-
E2 5c 1
138 Fu Kin Ada
-
E3 6a * 1
139 Fu Ka Duck
-
E3 5c  
140 The Two Samurai
-
E5 6a  
141 Hu Flungdung
-
E3 5c  
142 House Special
-
E2 5b  
143 Order Number 59
-
E3 5b  
144 Confucius, He Say
-
E5 6b  
145 Hiroshima Mon Amour
-
E4 6a  
146 Thai-Pin Wall
-
E5 6b  
  Shakehole Bay
148 Solifluction
-
E1 5b  
149 Baltic Monday
-
E1 5b  
150 Mushroom Wall
-
E3 5c  
151 Hobgoblin
-
E2 5c  
152 Pebble Collectors
-
E1 5b  
153 Seal Fodder
-
E2 5c *  
154 Mad about Saffron E2 5b  
155 Valentine Away E3 5c 1
156 Ewelogy
-
E1 5b  
157 Fruit Beaver
-
VS 4c  

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