Climbs 140
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

First Stackpole Experience...steep! © shoulders

Crag features

Some of the most classic routes in Pembroke here from the E2-E6 range. Fairly tidal. Routes up to 140ft. Some great traverses along and around the arches. A very esoteric east face once you have got used to the adventurous nature of this cliff.

Approach notes

Bird ban Feb 1 - July 31. Tidal: access to the boulder base for two hours either side of low tide. Retreat difficult. (Smart to check from Mowing Word where to set the ab ropes.) From Stackpole Head car park take the coastal path. Abseil in, or for the determined, take the LH (facing sea) of two ridges in the bay between Stackpole Head and Mowing Word.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 23 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update July 24th 2017 - the birds have fledged and all seasonal restrictions have been lifted early for 2017. 

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
Don't abseil into Swordfish as Rockfax tell you to - you end up in the sea!
submariner - 30/Sep/13
Go and do Silver Shadow as the sun is sinking and catching the wall full-on. A truly superb experience. Careful with the black slippery rock at the beginning; it gets a lot better after a few feet. When I did it one of my friends dropped his shoe in the sea prior to seconding. He had to untie and go swimming to get it. Shortly afterwards a VAST seal swam into the bay, attracted by the splashing around. I'm glad Bruno had got out by then!
Tom Chamberlain - 16/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 The Cooler HS 4b * 12
3 Dolphin Pod
-
E2 5b ** 12
4 Salty Dog E3 5c ** 8
5 Ritual Movements
-
E7 6b *** 2
6 Fish Fingers
-
E7 6c *** 1
7 The Whaler E2 5b ** 18
8 Immortality E5 6b *** 2
9 neptune HVS 5a * 14
10 Always the Sun E7 6c *** 5
11 Cruise to Hell E5 6b ** 1
12 Heaven's Door E3 5c *** 69
13 The Big Sleep E3 6a * 1
14 Second Shadow E5 6a * 3
15 Iron Maiden E4 6a ** 4
16 Top Banana
-
E6 6b *** 1
17 Swordfish E3 5c *** 75
18 Hammerhead E5 6a ** 1
19 Silver Shadow E2 5b *** 96
20 Break of Dawn E5 6b ** 1
21 Oranges and Lemons E6 6c ***  
22 Utter Anarchy E6 6c *** 1
23 Tramlines E1 5b * 3
24 Puritan E2 5c *** 43
25 Consolation E1 5b * 5
26 Mrs Pearson's Fine Damson Jam E3 5c * 1
27 Honeypot E5 6b ** 1
28 Cavalier E2 5b 2
29 Parliamentarian E3 6a * 2
30 Red October E3 5b ** 2
31 Condor E3 5c * 3
32 Stackpole Grooves HVS 5a ** 24
33 Stackpole Grooves Direct E1 5b ** 7
34 Plane Sailing E3 5c *** 7
35 Male bonding. E3 5c *** 2
36 Sea Eagle * E1 5b * 2
37 Roc * E2 5c * 2
38 Hindsight * E2 5c * 2
  South Face
40 Adam Adamant E5 6b ***  
41 Detective Prive
-
E6 6b *** 1
42 Vladimir Goes to Havana
-
E4 6a *** 5
43 Stackpole cracks E1 5a * 20
44 Buzzing insects make me want to dance * E4 6b 1
  East Face
46 Leap Frog E3 5c * 2
47 Munching Molluscs E1 5b * 3
48 Sweet Smell of Sucess
-
E5 6b ***  
  Shakehole Bay
50 Valentine Away E3 5c 1
51 Gargoyle Groove VS 4b 5
52 Melon Colic E3 5c * 1
53 Poisoned Love E3 5c 1
54 Fu Man Chew E2 5c 1
55 Fu kin ada E3 6a 1
56 Crunchy copepods E1 1
57 Time and Tide
-
E3 6a 1
58 Oui patron E4 6a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ed morris