Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Pembroke Magic. © AJCW

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic, as is Heart Of Darkness (HVS 4c) - an overhung sea traverse through a dark half-cave. There's Chimes Of Freedom (E2 5b), Ships That Crash In The Night (E3 5b), Slip Of The Wrist (E5 6a). And a convenient east face for some morning sun with the classics of Logos (E1), The Good Soldier (E2) and Crack Division (E4) - If you never have, go climb there.

Approach notes

Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.

Access Advice

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 23 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update 24 July - the birds have fledged  and all seasonal restrictions are lifted for 2017 with immediate effect.

Seasonal Climbing Restriction are in force for 2017 in from 'Diedre Sud' to 'New Morning' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Signs will be at place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)
Pembroke MiniGuide (2006)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  west face
2 Autumn Gold E3 5c ** 3
3 The Onion Eaters E3 6a ** 30
4 Crystal Grazer E2 5c * 13
5 Sea Goon HVS 4c * 13
6 The Darkness Beckons * HVS 5a * 2
  Chimes of Freedom
8 Seaside Salamander E5 6b ** 1
9 All at Sea E5 6a ** 13
10 Crises E3 6a ** 6
11 Tie Me to the Tyburn Tree E4 6a ** 1
12 Widowmaker E3 5c ** 51
13 Chimes of Freedom E2 5b *** 239
14 Stand by to Boogie E3 5c ** 26
15 Blowin' in the Wind HVS 5a ** 223
16 Snozwanger E1 5b ** 294
  Diedre Sud
18 Diedre Sud HS 4a *** 567
19 The Right Wall HVS 5a ** 113
20 New Morning E1 5b ** 28
21 Ice Breaker E3 6a * 3
22 Razorbill VS 4c * 49
23 Flax of Dream E2 5a ** 9
24 Heart of Darkness HVS 4c *** 331
25 Heart of Darkness/New Morning E1 5b *** 245
26 In One Door E5 6a ** 7
27 In the Heat of the Night E6 6b ** 2
28 Sealhunt E1 5b *** 228
29 Seal of Approval E3 5c * 7
30 Culinary Delights E2 5c * 2
31 Nipper's Route E3 6a *  
32 Black Cat E3 6a ** 6
  The Southern Tip
34 Seal VS 4c * 84
35 Cormorant flake VS 4c * 37
36 The Curver VS 4b ** 197
37 Nijinski E1 5b * 37
38 The Beak VS 4c * 28
  south face
40 Second Initiation
-
E1 5b * 16
41 The Razor's Edge HVS 5a * 40
  east face
43 Olive Branch E4 6a ** 36
44 Charenton Crack E2 5b *** 82
45 Go Slo
-
E1 5b * 11
46 Mental Block
-
E1 5b 34
47 Logos
-
HVS 5a * 76
48 Pilgrim's Chorus
-
HVS 5a 6
49 corner crack VS 4c 18
50 Ledgeway
-
D 9
51 Illusion Corner
-
VS 4c 19
52 La Militaire
-
E1 5b * 22
53 Street Legal
-
E2 5b * 21
54 The Good Soldier
-
E2 5c * 8
55 Black Crow Blues
-
E3 6a 1
56 Crack Division * E4 6a * 1
57 Free Spirit * E3 5c * 1
58 The Teetotallers *
-
E2 5b * 3
  unknown routes
60 Independence Dave E1 5b/c *  
61 Arete and Groove S 4a 6
62 Alcoholics Anonymous
-
E3 5c * 10
63 Initiation Corner
-
HVS 3
64 Initiation
-
HVS 3
65 Inception E3 5c * 5
66 Keen as Mustard *
-
HVS 5a **  
67 Maninwhite * E1 5b * 15
68 Dark Side Of The Beak * E1 5a 2
69 Finger Fiend * E5 6b ** 5
70 Odour shave combo direct *
-
E4 5c ** 5
71 Re-Initiation * E1 5b * 5
72 Over The Top * E1 5a * 1
73 Ships That Crash in the Night *
-
E3 *** 1
74 Slip of the Wrist *
-
E5 6a ***  
75 Roger the Lodger * E1 1
76 Square Chimney * VD 2
77 The Temperance Men *
-
E1 5b * 1
78 The arĂȘte of Mowing Word * VS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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