Pembroke Magic. © AJCW
A brilliant crag with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic, as is Heart Of Darkness (HVS 4c) - an overhung sea traverse through a dark half-cave. There's Chimes Of Freedom (E2 5b), Ships That Crash In The Night (E3 5b), Slip Of The Wrist (E5 6a). And a convenient east face for some morning sun with the classics of Logos (E1), The Good Soldier (E2) and Crack Division (E4) - If you never have, go climb there.
Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 April to 23 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update 24 July - the birds have fledged and all seasonal restrictions are lifted for 2017 with immediate effect.
Seasonal Climbing Restriction are in force for 2017 in from 'Diedre Sud' to 'New Morning' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Signs will be at place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
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