Climbs 107
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

Pembroke Magic. © AJCW

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some great routes at all grades. Diedre Sud (HS) is rightly a classic, as is Heart Of Darkness (HVS 4c) - an overhung sea traverse through a dark half-cave. There's Chimes Of Freedom (E2 5b), Ships That Crash In The Night (E3 5b), Slip Of The Wrist (E5 6a). And a convenient east face for some morning sun with the classics of Logos (E1), The Good Soldier (E2) and Crack Division (E4) - If you never have, go climb there.

Approach notes

Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, all the seasonal restrictions were removed. However, as of June 2016 climbers should be aware that there appears to be a number of auks nesting on the crag in the 'Right Wall' area.



Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)
Pembroke MiniGuide (2006)

Out of print:
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 west face 
2Autumn GoldE3 5c **3
3The Onion EatersE3 6a **26
4Crystal GrazerE2 5c *13
5Sea GoonHVS 4c *12
 Chimes of Freedom 
7Seaside SalamanderE5 6b **1
8All at SeaE5 6a **6
9CrisesE3 6a **4
10Tie Me to the Tyburn TreeE4 6a **1
11WidowmakerE3 5c **40
12Chimes of FreedomE2 5b ***220
13Stand by to BoogieE3 5c **24
14Blowin' in the WindHVS 5a **205
15SnozwangerE1 5b **275
 Diedre Sud 
17Diedre SudHS 4a ***541
18The Right WallHVS 5a **105
19New MorningE1 5b **22
20Ice BreakerE3 6a *2
21RazorbillVS 4c *46
22Flax of DreamE2 5a **8
23Heart of DarknessHVS 4c ***313
24Heart of Darkness/New MorningE1 5b ***229
25In One DoorE5 6a **3
26In the Heat of the NightE6 6b **2
27SealhuntE1 5b ***203
28Seal of ApprovalE3 5c *7
29Culinary DelightsE2 5c *2
30Nipper's RouteE3 6a * 
31Black CatE3 6a **4
 The Southern Tip 
33SealVS 4c *70
34Cormorant flakeVS 4c *31
35The CurverVS 4b **163
36NijinskiE1 5b *35
37The BeakVS 4c *28
 south face 
39Second Initiation
E1 5b *16
40The Razor's EdgeHVS 5a *37
 east face 
42Olive BranchE4 6a **31
43Charenton CrackE2 5b ***68
44Go Slo
E1 5b *7
45Mental Block
E1 5b 26
HVS 5a *57
47Pilgrim's Chorus
HVS 5a 5
48corner crackVS 4c 15
D 5
50Illusion Corner
VS 4c 15
51La Militaire
E1 5b *22
52Street Legal
E2 5b *20
53The Good Soldier
E2 5c *8
54Black Crow Blues
E3 6a 1
55Crack Division *E4 6a *1
56Free Spirit *E3 5c *1
 unknown routes 
58Independence DaveE1 5b/c * 
59Arete and GrooveS 4a 5
60Alcoholics Anonymous
E3 5c *6
61Initiation Corner
63InceptionE3 5c *3
64Keen as Mustard *
HVS 5a ** 
65Maninwhite *E1 5b *6
66Dark Side Of The Beak *E1 5a 2
67Finger Fiend *E5 6b **5
68Odour shave combo direct *
E4 5c **5
69Re-Initiation *E1 5b *5
70Over The Top *E1 5a *1
71Ships That Crash in the Night *
E3 ***1
72Slip of the Wrist *
E5 6a *** 
73Roger the Lodger *E1 1
74Square Chimney *VD 1
75The Temperance Men *
E1 5b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer cheesey959