Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Pembroke Magic. © AJCW

Crag features

Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year - many is the time I've heard folk say “must get that one done tomorrow/next week/this season”, only to reappear the following year with nothing bagged in the interim. Its long-standing history of being bird restricted has obviously added to this impression. Now that the main crag is free from any restriction, and Mowing Word can be climbed on all year round, it should see much more attention. Devote your energy to getting started on such west-facing beauties as the amazing Diedre Sud (HS), the multi-extravaganza Heart of Darkness (HVS), Snozwanger (E1), Flax of Dream (E2) and Chimes of Freedom (E2). And if that's not enough to drag you back time and time again … you should take a trip round onto the East Face and have a go at the terrible trio of steep crack climbs found there.

Approach notes

Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.

Restricted Access

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction are in force for 2019  from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Crystal Grazer
2 Autumn Gold
-
E3 5c  
3 Beach Bum E2 5b  
4 Fools Rush In
-
E3 5b  
5 That Shallot E3 5c * 3
6 The Onion Eaters E3 6a ** 49
7 Crystal Grazer E2 5c * 22
8 Sea Goon HVS 4c * 16
9 Keen as Mustard HVS 5a ** 2
  Chimes of Freedom
11 Seaside Salamander E5 6b ** 1
12 All at Sea E5 6a ** 18
13 Crises E3 6a ** 8
14 Tie Me to the Tyburn Tree E4 6a ** 1
15 Widowmaker E3 5c ** 61
16 Chimes of Freedom E2 5b *** 247
17 Stand by to Boogie E3 5c ** 42
18 Blowin' in the Wind HVS 5a ** 249
  Diedre Sud
20 Heart to Heart E1 5a  
21 Snozwanger E1 5b ** 343
22 Diedre Sud HS 4a *** 529
23 Sour Milk Dill
-
E2 5c  
24 The Right Wall HVS 5a ** 135
25 The Right Wall Direct
-
HVS 5a  
26 New Morning E1 5b ** 32
27 Dawn Chorus
-
E6 6b  
28 Ice Breaker E3 6a * 3
29 Ski Sunday E6 6b  
30 Razorbill VS 4c * 48
31 Dervish
-
HVS 4c  
32 If I Ruled the World
-
E5 6b  
33 Flax of Dream E2 5a ** 9
34 The Shadow Line
-
E6 6b  
35 The Crossing E2 ** 1
36 Heart of Darkness HVS 4c *** 233
37 Heart of Darkness/New Morning E1 5b *** 233
38 In One Door E5 6a ** 8
39 In the Heat of the Night E6 6b ** 3
40 Betrayal
-
E6 6b  
41 Sealhunt E1 5b *** 254
42 The Liquidator
-
E5 6b *  
Climb name Grade
43 Seal of Approval E3 5c * 11
44 Culinary Delights E2 5c * 2
45 Nipper's Route E3 6a *  
46 Small Man's Burden
-
E4 6a  
47 Black Cat E3 6a * 10
  Cormorant Flake Area
49 Maninwhite E2 5b * 24
50 Seal VS 4c * 105
51 Rose in Bloom
-
E3 5c  
52 Ships That Crash in the Night E3 5b *** 2
53 Cormorant Flake VS 4c * 56
54 Spurio City
-
E2 5c  
55 The Curver VS 4b ** 235
56 Nijinski E1 5b * 43
57 Horse Feathers
-
E2 5c  
58 Inside the Final Hurdle
-
E4 6b  
59 The Horse's Mouth
-
E2 5c  
60 The Darkness Beckons HVS 5a * 2
61 The Beak VS 4c * 30
62 Dark Side of the Beak E1 5a 2
63 The Pecker
-
E1 5b  
64 Over the Top E1 5a * 1
65 Contradiction E4 6a *  
  South Face
67 The ArĂȘte of Mowing Word VS 4b 1
68 Initiation Corner HVS 3
69 Initiation HVS 3
70 Inception E3 5c * 5
71 Second Initiation E1 5b * 19
72 Re-Initiation E1 5b * 7
73 Odour Shave Combo Direct
-
E4 6a ** 6
74 Odour Cologne
-
E4 6a *  
75 Stubble Trouble
-
E6 6c  
76 Slip of the Wrist E5 6a ** 1
77 Close Shave E4 6a * 1
78 The Razor's Edge HVS 5a * 61
79 The Razor's Edge Direct
-
E1 5c  
80 Severed Head
-
E4 5c *  
81 On the Brink
-
E5 6a  
82 Plain Failing
-
E3 5c  
83 Relaxation Class
-
E5 6c  
Climb name Grade
  East Face
85 So This Is War
-
E6 6b **  
86 Olive Branch E4 6a ** 37
87 Special Branch
-
E5 6a ** 2
88 If You Can't Crank It, Spank It
-
E4 6a **  
89 Charenton Crack E2 5b *** 98
90 Traverse of the Slobs
-
VS 4c * 1
91 Finger Fiend E5 6b ** 5
92 One More Nail
-
E5 6a  
93 Steep Pace E5 6b *  
94 Night Boat to Penfro
-
E5 6c  
95 Go Slo E1 5b * 25
96 Titanium Head
-
E4 6a  
97 Mental Block E1 5b * 53
98 Independence Dave E1 5b/c *  
99 Logos HVS 5b * 115
100 Alcoholics Anonymous
-
E3 5c * 18
101 The Teetotallers
-
E2 5b * 7
102 Fanatic
-
E1 5a  
103 Free Spirit E3 5c * 2
104 The Temperance Men
-
E1 5b * 4
105 Pilgrim's Chorus
-
HVS 5a 6
106 Corner Crack VS 4c * 23
107 Square Chimney VD 4
108 Ledgeway D 9
109 Illusion Corner VS 4c 33
110 ArĂȘte and Groove S 4a 9
  Hidden Wall
112 La Militaire
-
E1 5b * 28
113 Street Legal
-
E2 5c ** 30
114 Crack Division E4 6a * 2
115 The Good Soldier
-
E3 5c ** 12
116 Knocked Out Loaded
-
E1 5b  
117 Black Crow Blues
-
E3 6a 1
118 Puppy Dog Blues
-
E1 5b  
119 Dress Rehearsal Rag
-
E1  
  Forgotten Wall
121 New Balance
-
HVS 5a  
122 Plain Sailing
-
VD  
123 Haystacks
-
VS 4b  
124 Gullibility
-
VD  
125 Sulky Poos
-
VS 4c  
126 Easy Peasy
-
VS 4b  

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