Pembroke Magic. © AJCW
Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year - many is the time I've heard folk say “must get that one done tomorrow/next week/this season”, only to reappear the following year with nothing bagged in the interim. Its long-standing history of being bird restricted has obviously added to this impression. Now that the main crag is free from any restriction, and Mowing Word can be climbed on all year round, it should see much more attention. Devote your energy to getting started on such west-facing beauties as the amazing Diedre Sud (HS), the multi-extravaganza Heart of Darkness (HVS), Snozwanger (E1), Flax of Dream (E2) and Chimes of Freedom (E2). And if that's not enough to drag you back time and time again … you should take a trip round onto the East Face and have a go at the terrible trio of steep crack climbs found there.
Tidal on the belays of the first pitches of routes (only if the sea is big). Park at Stackpole Quay car park. Walk S along the coastal path. Abseil in - stakes at top.
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction are in force for 2019 from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
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