Climbs 295
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

The area faces southwest receiving the sun from mid-morning. It is often beautiful in late-afternoon sunshine. It catches the wind and dries quickly after rain but offers little shelter from bad weather. Most of the rock is clean although some north-facing sections can be green. 

Approach notes

The Roaches is situated to the east of the A53 between Buxton and Leek. At busy times, it is necessary to park at Upper Hulme, on the A53, from where the local council provides a bus link to the crag. At less busy times, parking is available on the road below the crag but please park considerately. From here, a well-worn path leads to the two main tiers past the conspicuous Rockhall Cottage (the Whillans Memorial BMC hut).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-hand Section
2 Rooster HVD * 631
3 Centre Slab f6C ** 31
4 Chicken Run HVD * 763
5 Freak Out E1 5b 6
6 Fern Crack S 4b ** 956
7 Heartbleed HVS 5b 6
8 Demon Wall VS 5a * 61
9 Perverted Staircase HVS 5a 67
10 Simpkin's Overhang E4 5c ** 11
11 Inverted Staircase D *** 1965
12 The Tower of Bizarre Delights E3 5c * 11
13 The Sublime E2 5b * 9
14 Pickpocket VS 4b 4
15 Crenation E1 5a * 23
16 Heather Slab Groove
-
D 165
17 Heather Slab S 3c * 1021
  West's Wallaby Area
19 Capitol Climb HS 4b * 248
20 Wombat E2 5b *** 329
21 Live Bait E4 5c * 1
22 West's Wallaby VS 4c * 285
23 Walleroo E2 5c ** 62
24 Wallaby Direct HVS 5a ** 269
25 Late Night Final HS 4a 47
  Maud's Garden Area
27 The Valve E4 5c * 15
28 Beckermet Slab HVD 4a * 451
29 Maud's Corner D 1
30 Maud's Garden HVD 3c *** 2715
31 Lybstep VS 4b 26
32 Contrary Mary VS 4b * 216
33 Coldfinger VS 4b 28
34 Reset Portion of Galley 37 HS 4b * 76
35 Broken Slab HS 4b * 219
36 Skallagrigg
-
HVS 5b  
37 Dawn Piper HVS 5b 29
38 Jog
-
HVS 5b  
39 Runner Route HS 4b ** 416
40 Ging E1 5c 13
41 Damascus Crack HS 4b ** 1562
42 Damascus Crack Left-hand Finish
-
VS 4c 500
43 Third Degree Burn E2 5b * 18
44 Libra HVS 4c * 242
  The Central Massif
46 Attempted Moustache
-
VS 4c  
47 A Day at the Seaside VS 4b 2
48 Joe Public HS 4a 12
49 Lone Ascent
-
HVS 5a 25
50 Little Perforations E2 6a 3
51 Wipers VS 4b 11
52 Central Massive D * 109
53 Aqua VS 4b * 469
54 Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
55 Quick Brew E2 5c * 12
56 Tealeaf Crack S 4a * 292
57 Cornflake
-
M 28
58 A Short Trip to a Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
HS 4b 49
  Black and Tans Area
60 Rotunda Buttress VS 4c * 514
61 Rotunda Gully M 160
62 Bachelor's Buttress HVS 4c ** 515
63 Gypfast E4 5c * 22
64 Something Biblical
-
E2 6a * 1
65 Saul's Crack HVS 5a *** 1247
66 Humdinger E1 5b ** 179
67 Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations HS 4c * 35
68 Jeffcoat's Chimney VD ** 784
69 Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation HS 4b *** 83
70 Jeffcoat's Buttress HS 5a *** 1012
71 The Slug Trail f7A ** 2
72 Hanging Around HVS 5b * 34
73 Ruby Tuesday E2 5b ** 86
74 Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a * 104
75 Black and Tans S 4a *** 2395
76 Black Velvet S 4a *** 1321
77 Diamond Wednesday HVS 5a * 339
  The Great Slab
79 Hollybush Crack VS 4b ** 523
80 The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b ** 226
81 Technical Slab HS 4a *** 1584
82 Gilted E5 6a *  
83 One Giant Lip for Mankind E6 6b ** 1
84 Painted Rumour E6 6a *** 14
85 Pedestal Route Variation S 4a 148
86 Pedestal Route HVD 4a *** 1829
87 Loculus Lie E5 6a ** 5
88 The Sloth HVS 5a *** 1762
89 New Fi'nial E6 6b ** 1
90 Central Route VS 4a ** 932
91 99% of Gargoyles Look Like Bob Todd
-
E5 6b *  
92 Popper f3+ * 75
93 Slab Dancer f4+ * 47
94 Flap Dancer f7B 8
95 The Lintel f5+ * 69
96 Cheesy Moon f3+ * 51
97 Long Traverse f5 66
98 Right Route VD *** 2674
99 Right Route Right VS 4c * 233
  Crack and Corner Area
101 Laughing All the Way to the Blank E4 6a * 4
102 Kelly's Direct E1 5b * 141
103 Kelly's Shelf S 4b * 865
104 Goat's Gruff f4+ * 58
105 Goat's Eye f5+ * 75
106 Goat's Eye Sit-start f6B 34
107 The Monodoigt f7B+ * 5
Climb name Grade
108 Skin and Wishbones E8 7a **  
109 The Flake Museum f5+ * 11
110 Scallop f4+ 19
111 Paralogism E7 6c *** 16
112 Antithesis E5 6b *** 3
113 Bed of Nails E3 5b ** 6
114 Easy Gully Wall HVD 4a * 463
115 Jelly Roll VS 4c ** 405
116 Magic Child HVS 5a 16
117 Magic Crossing f5 * 8
118 Toucan f7A * 11
119 Ped X-ing E3 5c * 9
120 Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 169
121 Roscoe's Wall/Round Table HVS 5b * 228
122 Lichenthrope f7A+ ** 11
123 Crack Indirect f5+ * 12
124 Crack and Corner HS 4c *** 971
125 Crack Start f5 ** 27
126 Trebia
-
E4 6a  
127 Round Table E1 5b * 37
128 Destination Venus HVS 5b 1
129 Babbacombe Lee E1 5b * 156
130 Babbacombe Start f5 ** 39
131 Polish f7A+ 2
132 Sheep Shit f7A+ ** 5
133 Sheep Shit Crack f6C+ ** 24
134 Oik f6A * 31
135 Fly United E1 5c ** 1
136 Hangman's Crack S 4a 183
  Blushing Buttress
138 Aperitif HS 4c 1
139 Scarlet Wall HS 4a * 362
140 Scarlett Wall Slab Finish HS 4a  
141 War Wound E1 6a * 73
142 Left-hand Route S 4b ** 1188
143 Right-hand Route HS 4c ** 1170
144 Right-hand Route, Right-hand Start HS 4b 11
145 Gully Wall VS 4b 206
146 Grilled Fingers E1 5a 14
147 The Rib D 304
148 Rib Wall Direct Start
-
S 4c * 45
149 Rib Wall S 4a 335
150 Sparkle HS 4b 144
  Calcutta Buttress
152 Between the Tiles
-
HVS 5a  
153 Bombay Overhang f5+ ** 82
154 Calcutta Crimp f6B+ ** 52
155 Dirtnap f7B ** 3
156 Calcutta Meadow f7A ** 5
157 Sign of the Times E1 6a 43
158 Sign Start
-
f5+ * 24
159 Sleeping with the Flowers f6C+ ** 118
160 Calcutta Crack HS 4c ** 278
161 Mistral E2 6a * 16
162 Mistral Start f6B * 90
163 Limbless Limbo Dancer f7A ** 155
164 Dish Grab f6B+ * 66
165 Calcutta Buttress HVS 5b * 82
166 Calcutta Rib f5+ ** 47
167 Calcutta Traverse f6A * 242
168 The Black Hole Start
-
f7A * 36
169 Delhi Belly f7C *** 1
170 Solar Wind V6 1
171 Decapitation by Spaghettification V6 2
172 Enough of this Gravity Stuff V6 3
173 Black Hole Rib V5+ 3
174 The Spectatorship of the Proletariat E5 6b * 2
175 Genetix E3 6a * 4
176 Stop...Carry on! HVS 5a 12
177 Calcutta Crab Dance HS 4c ** 10
  Right-hand End
179 Pepper
-
HVS 5a 14
180 Dazed and Confused E3 6a ** 2
181 Garlic
-
HVS 5a 11
182 Dolly Mix, Mix
-
HVS 5a  
183 Shelty
-
HVS 5c  
184 Ou est le Spit? E6 6b ** 4
185 Wolfman of the KGB
-
E3 5b  
186 Wolfman Sit-start V7  
187 Proper Gander f7C *** 1
  Traverses
189 The Girdle Traverse S 10
  Upper Tier Boulders
  The Rippler
192 Back Arête f2+ 28
193 Left Arête f4 * 271
194 Grand Theft f7C ** 1
195 GTA V11 1
196 The Rippler f6A * 294
197 The Rippler Sit-start
-
f7A 44
198 The Rippler Traverse f6A 5
199 The Boss f6C * 83
200 Lip-Service V7 2
201 Ripple Arête
-
f4 54
  Little Boulder
203 Nosy f3 98
204 Upright f3 86
  The Nose
206 The Nose Traverse f6B * 2
207 Crimpy Wall f4+ * 297
208 Nose Arête f4+ * 291
209 Nose Arête Right f5+ 175
210 Nose Scoop f6A 219
211 Nose Mantel f2+ 141
  Joe's Boulder
213 The Bishop's Move f3+ * 625
214 Joe's Arête f6A *** 1178
Climb name Grade
215 Pink Wall Traverse f7A ** 8
216 Pink Wall Eliminate f7A ** 136
217 Pink Wall Eliminate 2 f7A *** 7
218 Pink Wall f5 * 236
219 Joe's Portholes f4+ * 666
220 Joe's Portholes Sit-start
-
f4+ 92
221 Joe's Portholes Eliminate f5+ 111
222 Mean ol' Bastard
-
f7B * 33
223 Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ * 44
224 Joe's Right f5 93
  The Long Boulder
226 Nadin's Traverse f7A 164
227 Nadin's Traverse - Reg Link
-
f7A+ * 3
228 Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Link f7A+ ** 16
229 Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Link f7B * 10
230 Jug Up f4+ 236
231 Glued Up f6A 106
232 Glued-Up Dyno
-
V8  
233 Reg f7A 110
234 Pixie f5+ 118
235 The Staircase f5+ * 419
236 Cooper's Traverse f6A+ * 218
237 Cooper's Traverse Extension V5 6
238 Mantel f5 51
239 Long Boulder Mantel f4 60
  Don's Boulder
241 Don's Crack f5 ** 526
242 Don's Eliminate f6B 135
243 Don's Arête f3+ * 376
  The Wing
245 Winger f5+ * 158
246 Wing Wong f5+ ** 281
247 Broken Wing f6C+ ** 148
248 The Beak f6B ** 191
  Grooves Boulder
250 Slippery Groove f4+ * 154
251 Arête on Left f5 * 129
252 Easy Groove f4 ** 186
253 Flakes and Chips f4+ ** 527
254 Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 39
255 Bancroft's 6b f7A+ * 57
256 Left Groove f6B+ *** 171
257 Higginson's Arm f7B+ ** 3
258 Right Groove f6A+ ** 117
259 Right Groove Low
-
V6 1
260 Vague Arête f6A 34
261 The Nose f6B * 72
262 The Nose Low
-
V5 * 1
263 Juggy Groove f5+ * 119
  Too Drunk Boulder
265 Gritstone Bouldering Pissup f6C ** 1
266 Too Drunk f7A ** 105
267 The Hangover f7A 1
268 Drunk Enough f6C+ * 107
269 Bobby Custard f7B * 2
  The Attic
271 Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ ** 14
272 Roof Problem f5+ 6
273 The Squirm f4 15
274 The Finger f5 ** 4
275 Handy Wall f5 * 16
276 Mounty f3+ * 24
277 Barley f5 * 6
278 Chasm Arête f6A ** 5
279 Sexy Steve f6A+ * 2
280 Scrack f4 ** 54
281 Reachy Wall f6A * 18
282 Runnel Rouser f4+ * 14
283 Arête f3+ * 7
284 Risky Runnel f5 * 6
  The Cellar
286 The Gates f7A * 1
287 Crinkly Wall f5+ * 23
288 Ride my Pimp f6B * 3
289 The Downpipe f6C+ ** 13
290 Pipe Entry f7A 5
291 Night Rider f7B+ * 1
292 Left Slab f4 * 65
293 Tiny Groove f3 * 81
294 Right Slab f3 * 82
295 Cellar Dwella f7A+  
296 Cellar Slab 1 f5 * 63
297 Cellar Slab 2 f5+ * 84
298 Easy Groove f2+ * 105
  The Cube
300 Cube Traverse f6A+ * 3
301 Flakes f5 ** 29
302 Cube Crack f3+ ** 23
303 Period Drama f6A * 4
304 Jump f6C ** 22
305 Jump Sit-start
-
V7  
306 The Cube Direct f7B+ ** 3
307 The Cube f6B *** 51
308 The Pube f6A+ ** 24
309 Pube Sit-start
-
V9  
310 Right Pube f6A+ * 6
311 Back Crack f5 * 2
312 Back Arête V0  
  Triangular Slab
314 K2 f2+ ** 47
315 K3 f4+ * 21
316 Summit Slab f5+ * 19
317 Notch Slab f5+ * 48
318 2K f2+ ** 23
319 Traverse of the Triangular Slab
-
V0+ 13
  The Rack
321 The Rack V1  

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