Climbs 272
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-Hand Section
2 Rooster HVD * 554
3 Centre Slab f6C ** 30
4 Chicken Run HVD * 676
5 Freak Out E1 5b 4
6 Fern Crack S 4b ** 846
7 Heartbleed HVS 5b 4
8 Demon Wall VS 5a * 52
9 Perverted Staircase HVS 5a 58
10 Simpkin's Overhang E4 5c ** 9
11 Inverted Staircase D *** 1696
12 The Tower of Bizarre Delights E3 5c * 11
13 The Sublime E2 5b * 8
14 Pickpocket VS 4b 3
15 Crenation E1 5a * 20
16 Heather Slab Groove
-
D 137
17 Heather Slab S 3c * 888
  West's Wallaby Area
19 Capitol Climb HS 4b * 238
20 Wombat E2 5b *** 368
21 Live Bait E4 5c * 1
22 West's Wallaby VS 4c * 237
23 Walleroo E2 5c ** 53
24 Wallaby Direct HVS 5a ** 220
25 Late Night Final HS 4a 42
  Maud's Garden Area
27 The Valve E4 5c * 15
28 Beckermet Slab HVD 4a * 406
29 Maud's Garden HVD 3c *** 2369
30 Lybstep VS 4b 23
31 Contrary Mary VS 4b * 188
32 Coldfinger VS 4b 27
33 Reset Portion of Galley 37 HS 4b * 68
34 Broken Slab HS 4b * 187
35 Dawn Piper HVS 5b * 22
36 Runner Route HS 4b ** 387
37 Ging E1 5c 11
38 Damascus Crack HS 4b ** 1339
39 Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 409
40 Third Degree Burn E2 5b * 15
41 Libra HVS 4c * 235
  The Central Massif
43 A Day at the Seaside VS 4b 2
44 Joe Public HS 4a 12
45 Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 21
46 Little Perforations E2 6a 3
47 Wipers VS 4b 11
48 Central Massive D * 98
49 Aqua VS 4b * 396
50 Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
51 Quick Brew E2 5c * 10
52 Tealeaf Crack S 4a * 257
53 Cornflake
-
M 24
54 A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 45
  Black and Tans Area
56 Rotunda Buttress VS 4c * 460
57 Rotunda Gully M 134
58 Bachelor's Buttress HVS 4c ** 476
59 Gypfast E4 5c * 20
60 Something Biblical
-
E2 6a * 1
61 Saul's Crack HVS 5a *** 1118
62 Humdinger E1 5b ** 149
63 Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations HS 4c * 34
64 Jeffcoat's Chimney VD ** 714
65 Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation HS 4b *** 59
66 Jeffcoat's Buttress HS 5a *** 874
67 The slug Trail f7A ** 1
68 Hanging Around HVS 5b * 28
69 Ruby Tuesday E2 5b ** 90
70 Black and Tans S 4a *** 2108
71 Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a * 94
72 Black Velvet S 4a *** 1113
73 Diamond Wednesday HVS 5a * 304
  The Great Slab
75 Hollybush Crack VS 4b ** 472
76 Technical Slab HS 4a *** 1343
77 The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b ** 197
78 Technical Slab + The Neb Finish
-
HS 4a *** 31
79 Gilted E5 6a *  
80 Painted Rumour E6 6a *** 10
81 Pedestal Route Variation S 4a 116
82 Pedestal Route HVD 4a *** 1627
83 Loculus Lie E5 6a ** 5
84 The Sloth HVS 5a *** 2067
85 New Fi'nial E6 6b ** 1
86 One Giant Lip for Mankind E6 6b ** 1
87 Central Route VS 4a ** 827
88 The Spectatorship of the Proletariat E5 6b * 2
89 Right Route VD *** 2297
90 Right Route Right VS 4c * 194
91 Kelly's Direct E1 5b * 109
92 Skin And Wishbones E8 7a ***  
93 Kelly's Shelf S 4b * 765
94 Laughing all the way to the Blank E4 6a * 4
95 Paralogism E7 6c *** 11
96 Antithesis E5 6b *** 3
97 Bed of Nails E3 5b ** 6
  Roscoe's Wall Area
99 Easy Gully Wall HVD 4a * 380
100 Jelly Roll VS 4c ** 346
101 Magic Child HVS 5a 15
102 Ped X-ing E3 5c * 6
103 Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 120
104 Roscoe's Wall/Round Table HVS 5b * 221
105 Crack and Corner HS 4c *** 932
106 Round Table E1 5a ** 29
107 Babbacombe Lee E1 5b * 149
108 Destination Venus HVS 5b 1
109 Fly United E1 5c **  
110 Hangman's Crack S 4a 165
  Blushing Buttress
112 Scarlet Wall HS 4a * 321
113 War Wound E1 6a * 71
114 Left Hand Route S 4b ** 1034
115 Right Hand Route HS 4c ** 1028
116 Gully Wall VS 4b 174
117 Grilled Fingers E1 5a 13
118 The Rib D 257
119 Rib Wall S 4a 299
120 Rib Wall Direct Start S 4c * 37
121 Sparkle HS 4b 137
  Calcutta Buttress
123 Sign of the Times E1 6a 38
124 Calcutta Crack HS 4c ** 246
125 Mistral E2 6a * 14
126 Calcutta Buttress HVS 5b * 74
127 Genetix E3 6a * 4
128 Stop... Carry on! HVS 5a 12
129 Calcutta Crab Dance HS 4c ** 6
  Right-Hand End
131 Pepper
-
VS 5a 11
132 Garlic
-
HVS 5a 8
133 Ou est le Spit? E6 6b ** 4
134 Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
135 Proper Gander f7C *** 1
  Upper Tier Boulders
  The Rippler
138 Back Arete f2+ 7
139 Left Arête f4 * 227
140 Grand Theft f7C ** 1
141 GTA V11  
142 The Rippler f6A * 230
143 The Rippler Sit Start f7A 26
144 Lip-Service V7 1
145 The Boss f6C * 65
146 Ripple Arête f4 39
  Little Boulder
148 Nosy f3 75
149 Upright f3 68
  The Nose
151 The Nose Traverse f6B * 2
152 Crimpy Wall f4+ * 248
153 Nose Arete f4+ * 227
154 Nose Arête Right f5+ 149
155 Nose Scoop f6A 161
156 Nose Mantel f2+ 111
  Joe's Boulder
158 The Bishop's Move f3+ * 510
159 Joe's Arête f6A *** 937
160 Joe's Right f5 41
161 Pink Wall f5 * 150
162 Pink Wall Eliminate f7A ** 76
163 Joe's Portholes f4+ * 505
164 Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 75
165 Joe's Portholes Eliminate f5+ 81
166 Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B * 26
167 Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ * 38
  The Long Boulder
169 Nadin's Traverse f7A 142
170 Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Link f7A+ ** 15
171 Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Link f7B * 9
172 Jug Up f4+ 190
173 Glued Up f6A 88
174 Reg f7A 58
175 Pixie f5+ 80
176 Staircase f5+ * 324
177 Cooper's Traverse Extension V5 5
178 Cooper's Traverse f6A+ * 177
179 Mantel f5 41
180 Long Boulder Mantel f4 49
  Don's Boulder
182 Don's Crack f5 ** 415
183 Don's Crack Eliminate f6B 97
184 Don's Arête f3+ * 304
  The Wing
186 Winger f5+ * 108
187 Wing Wong f5+ ** 201
188 The Beak f6B ** 151
189 Broken Wing f6C+ ** 110
  Great Slab Bouldering
191 Popper f3+ * 51
192 Slab Dancer f4+ * 28
193 Flap Dancer f7B 6
194 The Lintel f5+ * 50
195 Cheesy Moon f3+ * 33
196 Long Traverse f5 55
197 Goat's Gruff f4+ * 46
198 Goat's Eye f5+ * 62
199 Goat's Eye - Sitting Start f6B+ 29
200 The Monodoigt f7B+ * 5
201 Flake Museum f5+ * 10
202 Scallop f4+ 17
  Grooves Boulder
204 Slippery Groove f4+ * 99
205 Arete on Left (Grooves) f5 * 103
206 Easy Groove (Grooves) f4 ** 144
207 Flakes and Chips f4+ ** 422
208 Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 33
209 Bancroft's 6b f7A+ * 42
210 Higginson's Arm f7B+ ** 3
211 Left Groove f6B+ *** 130
212 Right Groove f6A+ ** 92
213 Vague Arête f6A 26
214 The Nose (Grooves) f6B * 63
215 Juggy Groove f5+ * 91
  Crack and Corner Area
217 Magic Crossing f5 * 3
218 Toucan f7A * 8
219 Lichenthrope f7A+ ** 8
220 Crack Indirect f5+ * 7
221 Crack Start f5 ** 25
222 Babbacombe Start f5 ** 32
223 Polish f7A+ 2
224 Sheep Shit f7A+ ** 2
225 Sheep Shit Crack f6C+ ** 18
226 Oik f6A * 19
  Calcutta Bouldering
228 Bombay Overhang f5+ ** 70
229 Calcutta Crimp f6B+ ** 49
230 Calcutta Meadow f7A ** 3
231 Sleeping with the Flowers f6C+ ** 101
232 Sign Start f5+ * 20
233 Dirtnap f7B ** 3
234 Mistral Start f6B * 78
235 Limbless Limbo Dancer f7A ** 128
236 Dish Grab f6B+ * 56
237 Calcutta Rib f5+ ** 42
238 Calcutta Traverse f6A * 199
239 The Black Hole Start
-
f7A * 30
240 Delhi Belly f7C *** 1
241 Gritstone Bouldering Pissup f6C ** 1
242 Too Drunk f7A ** 84
243 Drunk Enough f6C+ * 89
244 Decapitation by Spaghettification V6 1
245 Black Hole Rib V5+ 1
246 Enough Of This Gravity Stuff. V6 1
  The Attic
248 Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ ** 9
249 Roof Problem f5+ 6
250 The Squirm f4 12
251 The Finger/Spike Lee f5 ** 2
252 Handy Wall f5 * 12
253 Mounty f3+ * 19
254 Barley f5 * 4
255 Chasm Arête f6A ** 5
256 Sexy Steve f6A+ * 2
257 Scrack f4 ** 42
258 Reachy Wall f6A * 14
259 Runnel Rouser f4+ * 12
260 Arete f3+ * 3
261 Risky Runnel f5 * 6
  The Cellar
263 The Gates f7A * 1
264 Crinkly Wall f5+ * 21
265 Ride My Pimp f6B * 3
266 The Downpipe f6C+ ** 10
267 Pipe Entry f7A 5
268 Night Rider f7B+ * 1
269 Left Slab (Cellar) f4 * 44
270 Tiny Groove f3 * 63
271 Right Slab f3 * 64
272 Cellar Dwella f7A+  
273 Cellar Slab 1 f5 * 52
274 Cellar Slab 2 f5+ * 64
275 Easy Groove (Cellar) f2+ * 82
  The Cube
277 Flakes (Cube) f5 ** 23
278 Cube Crack f3+ ** 18
279 Period Drama f6A *  
280 Jump f6C ** 21
281 The Cube Direct f7B+ ** 2
282 The Cube f6B *** 45
283 The Pube f6A+ ** 19
284 Right Pube f6A+ * 6
285 Back Crack f5 *  
286 Cube Traverse f6A+ * 3
287 K2 f2+ ** 38
288 K3 f4+ * 15
289 Summit Slab f5+ * 11
290 Notch Slab f5+ * 40
291 2K f2+ ** 11
292 Traverse Of The Triangular Slab V0+ 5b 12
  Where are these??
294 Pac Man
-
f5 * 2
295 Two Chips
-
f4+ * 2
296 Traversed to Scrack f5+ * 1
297 Upper Tier Ridge 3 * 3
298 Dazed and Confused E3 6a ** 1

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