Climbs 288
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-Hand Section
2 Rooster HVD * 606
3 Centre Slab f6C ** 30
4 Chicken Run HVD * 727
5 Freak Out E1 5b 5
6 Fern Crack S 4b ** 921
7 Heartbleed HVS 5b 6
8 Demon Wall VS 5a * 58
9 Perverted Staircase HVS 5a 66
10 Simpkin's Overhang E4 5c ** 11
11 Inverted Staircase D *** 1870
12 The Tower of Bizarre Delights E3 5c * 11
13 The Sublime E2 5b * 9
14 Pickpocket VS 4b 4
15 Crenation E1 5a * 23
16 Heather Slab Groove
-
D 164
17 Heather Slab S 3c * 975
  West's Wallaby Area
19 Capitol Climb HS 4b * 240
20 Wombat E2 5b *** 315
21 Live Bait E4 5c * 1
22 West's Wallaby VS 4c * 269
23 Walleroo E2 5c ** 60
24 Wallaby Direct HVS 5a ** 246
25 Late Night Final HS 4a 45
  Maud's Garden Area
27 The Valve E4 5c * 15
28 Beckermet Slab HVD 4a * 432
29 Maud's Garden HVD 3c *** 2613
30 Lybstep VS 4b 26
31 Contrary Mary VS 4b * 207
32 Coldfinger VS 4b 28
33 Reset Portion of Galley 37 HS 4b * 74
34 Broken Slab HS 4b * 209
35 Dawn Piper HVS 5b 26
36 Runner Route HS 4b ** 402
37 Ging E1 5c 13
38 Damascus Crack HS 4b ** 1493
39 Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 471
40 Third Degree Burn E2 5b * 18
41 Libra HVS 4c * 236
42 Maud's Corner D 1
  The Central Massif
44 A Day at the Seaside VS 4b 2
45 Joe Public HS 4a 12
46 Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 25
47 Little Perforations E2 6a 3
48 Wipers VS 4b 11
49 Central Massive D * 104
50 Aqua VS 4b * 446
51 Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
52 Quick Brew E2 5c * 12
53 Tealeaf Crack S 4a * 283
54 Cornflake
-
M 27
55 A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 47
  Black and Tans Area
57 Rotunda Buttress VS 4c * 496
58 Rotunda Gully M 150
59 Bachelor's Buttress HVS 4c ** 498
60 Gypfast E4 5c * 21
61 Something Biblical
-
E2 6a * 1
62 Saul's Crack HVS 5a *** 1191
63 Humdinger E1 5b ** 169
64 Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations HS 4c * 34
65 Jeffcoat's Chimney VD ** 758
66 Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation HS 4b *** 76
67 Jeffcoat's Buttress HS 5a *** 972
68 The slug Trail f7A ** 1
69 Hanging Around HVS 5b * 31
70 Ruby Tuesday E2 5b ** 86
71 Black and Tans S 4a *** 2271
72 Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a * 103
73 Black Velvet S 4a *** 1244
74 Diamond Wednesday HVS 5a * 322
  The Great Slab
76 Hollybush Crack VS 4b ** 491
77 Technical Slab HS 4a *** 1468
78 The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b ** 217
79 Technical Slab + The Neb Finish
-
HS 4a *** 35
80 Gilted E5 6a *  
81 Painted Rumour E6 6a *** 13
82 Pedestal Route Variation S 4a 142
83 Pedestal Route HVD 4a *** 1749
84 Loculus Lie E5 6a ** 5
85 The Sloth HVS 5a *** 1688
86 New Fi'nial E6 6b ** 1
87 One Giant Lip for Mankind E6 6b ** 1
88 Central Route VS 4a ** 899
89 The Spectatorship of the Proletariat E5 6b * 2
90 Right Route VD *** 2545
91 Right Route Right VS 4c * 221
92 Kelly's Direct E1 5b * 132
93 Skin And Wishbones E8 7a **  
94 Kelly's Shelf S 4b * 839
95 Laughing all the way to the Blank E4 6a * 4
96 Paralogism E7 6c *** 16
97 Antithesis E5 6b *** 3
98 Bed of Nails E3 5b ** 6
  Roscoe's Wall Area
100 Easy Gully Wall HVD 4a * 427
101 Jelly Roll VS 4c ** 385
102 Magic Child HVS 5a 15
103 Ped X-ing E3 5c * 9
104 Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 160
105 Roscoe's Wall/Round Table HVS 5b * 227
Climb name Grade
106 Crack and Corner HS 4c *** 925
107 Round Table E1 5b * 37
108 Babbacombe Lee E1 5b * 155
109 Destination Venus HVS 5b 1
110 Fly United E1 5c ** 1
111 Hangman's Crack S 4a 174
  Blushing Buttress
113 Scarlet Wall HS 4a * 350
114 War Wound E1 6a * 71
115 Left Hand Route S 4b ** 1144
116 Right Hand Route HS 4c ** 1130
117 Right Hand Route, Right hand Start HS 4b 5
118 Gully Wall VS 4b 200
119 Grilled Fingers E1 5a 14
120 The Rib D 284
121 Rib Wall S 4a 320
122 Rib Wall Direct Start S 4c * 45
123 Sparkle HS 4b 141
124 Aperitif HS 4c 1
  Calcutta Buttress
126 Sign of the Times E1 6a 43
127 Calcutta Crack HS 4c ** 262
128 Mistral E2 6a * 16
129 Calcutta Buttress HVS 5b * 81
130 Genetix E3 6a * 4
131 Stop... Carry on! HVS 5a 12
132 Calcutta Crab Dance HS 4c ** 10
  Right-Hand End
134 Pepper
-
VS 5a 13
135 Garlic
-
HVS 5a 11
136 Dazed and Confused E3 6a ** 2
137 Ou est le Spit? E6 6b ** 4
138 Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
139 Proper Gander f7C *** 1
140 Wolfman SS V7  
  Upper Tier Boulders
  The Rippler
143 Back Arete f2+ 24
144 Left Arête f4 * 266
145 Grand Theft f7C ** 1
146 GTA V11 1
147 The Rippler f6A * 286
148 The Rippler Sit Start f7A 44
149 The Rippler traverse f6A 5
150 Lip-Service V7 1
151 The Boss f6C * 81
152 Ripple Arête f4 53
  Little Boulder
154 Nosy f3 94
155 Upright f3 84
  The Nose
157 The Nose Traverse f6B * 2
158 Crimpy Wall f4+ * 288
159 Nose Arete f4+ * 281
160 Nose Arête Right f5+ 173
161 Nose Scoop f6A 210
162 Nose Mantel f2+ 134
  Joe's Boulder
164 The Bishop's Move f3+ * 590
165 Joe's Arête f6A *** 1112
166 Joe's Right f5 82
167 Pink Wall f5 * 210
168 Pink Wall Eliminate f7A ** 113
169 Pink Wall Eliminate 2 f7A *** 7
170 Joe's Portholes f4+ * 625
171 Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 90
172 Joe's Portholes Eliminate f5+ 102
173 Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B * 31
174 Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ * 42
175 Joe's Pride V3 2
176 Pink Wall Traverse f7A ** 7
  The Long Boulder
178 Nadin's Traverse f7A 161
179 Nadin's Traverse - Reg
-
f7A+ * 2
180 Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Link f7A+ ** 16
181 Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Link f7B * 9
182 Jug Up f4+ 223
183 Glued Up f6A 103
184 Reg f7A 94
185 Pixie f5+ 108
186 Staircase f5+ * 394
187 Cooper's Traverse Extension V5 6
188 Cooper's Traverse f6A+ * 205
189 Mantel f5 50
190 Long Boulder Mantel f4 56
  Don's Boulder
192 Don's Crack f5 ** 493
193 Don's Crack Eliminate f6B 123
194 Don's Arête f3+ * 359
  The Wing
196 Winger f5+ * 142
197 Wing Wong f5+ ** 258
198 The Beak f6B ** 182
199 Broken Wing f6C+ ** 140
  Great Slab Bouldering
201 Popper f3+ * 73
202 Slab Dancer f4+ * 46
203 Flap Dancer f7B 6
204 The Lintel f5+ * 66
205 Cheesy Moon f3+ * 49
206 Long Traverse f5 66
207 Goat's Gruff f4+ * 57
208 Goat's Eye f5+ * 74
209 Goat's Eye - Sitting Start f6B+ 32
210 The Monodoigt f7B+ * 5
Climb name Grade
211 Flake Museum f5+ * 11
212 Scallop f4+ 19
  Grooves Boulder
214 Slippery Groove f4+ * 121
215 Arete on Left (Grooves) f5 * 123
216 Easy Groove (Grooves) f4 ** 175
217 Flakes and Chips f4+ ** 496
218 Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 38
219 Bancroft's 6b f7A+ * 50
220 Higginson's Arm f7B+ ** 3
221 Left Groove f6B+ *** 160
222 Right Groove f6A+ ** 111
223 Right Groove Low
-
V6 6c  
224 Vague Arête f6A 34
225 The Nose (Grooves) f6B * 67
226 Juggy Groove f5+ * 112
  Crack and Corner Area
228 Magic Crossing f5 * 7
229 Toucan f7A * 11
230 Lichenthrope f7A+ ** 10
231 Crack Indirect f5+ * 12
232 Crack Start f5 ** 26
233 Babbacombe Start f5 ** 38
234 Polish f7A+ 2
235 Sheep Shit f7A+ ** 5
236 Sheep Shit Crack f6C+ ** 23
237 Oik f6A * 27
  Calcutta Bouldering
239 Bombay Overhang f5+ ** 79
240 Calcutta Crimp f6B+ ** 50
241 Calcutta Meadow f7A ** 5
242 Sleeping with the Flowers f6C+ ** 113
243 Dirtnap f7B ** 3
244 Sign Start f5+ * 23
245 Mistral Start f6B * 86
246 Limbless Limbo Dancer f7A ** 151
247 Dish Grab f6B+ * 65
248 Calcutta Rib f5+ ** 47
249 Calcutta Traverse f6A * 233
250 The Black Hole Start
-
f7A * 35
251 Delhi Belly f7C *** 1
252 Decapitation by Spaghettification V6 2
253 Black Hole Rib V5+ 2
254 Enough Of This Gravity Stuff. V6 3
  Too Drunk Boulder
256 Too Drunk f7A ** 103
257 Drunk Enough f6C+ * 103
258 Gritstone Bouldering Pissup f6C ** 1
  The Attic
260 Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ ** 14
261 Roof Problem f5+ 6
262 The Squirm f4 14
263 The Finger/Spike Lee f5 ** 3
264 Handy Wall f5 * 15
265 Mounty f3+ * 24
266 Barley f5 * 6
267 Chasm Arête f6A ** 5
268 Sexy Steve f6A+ * 2
269 Scrack f4 ** 52
270 Reachy Wall f6A * 17
271 Runnel Rouser f4+ * 14
272 Arete f3+ * 7
273 Risky Runnel f5 * 6
  The Cellar
275 The Gates f7A * 1
276 Crinkly Wall f5+ * 22
277 Ride My Pimp f6B * 3
278 The Downpipe f6C+ ** 13
279 Pipe Entry f7A 5
280 Night Rider f7B+ * 1
281 Left Slab (Cellar) f4 * 61
282 Tiny Groove f3 * 78
283 Right Slab f3 * 79
284 Cellar Dwella f7A+  
285 Cellar Slab 1 f5 * 61
286 Cellar Slab 2 f5+ * 79
287 Easy Groove (Cellar) f2+ * 102
  The Cube
289 Flakes (Cube) f5 ** 28
290 Cube Crack f3+ ** 23
291 Period Drama f6A * 1
292 Jump f6C ** 22
293 Jump SS
-
V7  
294 The Cube Direct f7B+ ** 3
295 The Cube f6B *** 48
296 The Pube f6A+ ** 22
297 Right Pube f6A+ * 6
298 Back Crack f5 * 2
299 Cube Traverse f6A+ * 3
300 K2 f2+ ** 45
301 K3 f4+ * 20
302 Summit Slab f5+ * 17
303 Notch Slab f5+ * 46
304 2K f2+ ** 19
305 Traverse Of The Triangular Slab V0+ 5b 13
306 Cave Exit
-
V7  
307 Back Arete V0  
308 The Rack V1  
  Where are these??
310 Pac Man
-
f5 * 3
311 Two Chips
-
f4+ * 2
312 Traversed to Scrack f5+ * 2
313 Upper Tier Ridge 3 * 5
314 Bobby Custard
-
f7B * 1
315 Ants in your pants f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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