Climbs 268
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left-Hand Section 
2RoosterVD *537
3Centre Slabf6C **24
4Chicken RunHVD *652
5Freak OutE1 5b 4
6Fern CrackS 4b **799
7HeartbleedHVS 5b 4
8Demon WallVS 5a *48
9Perverted StaircaseVS 5a 56
10Simpkin's OverhangE4 5b **7
11Inverted StaircaseD ***1599
12The Tower of Bizarre DelightsE3 5c *11
13The SublimeE2 5b *9
14PickpocketVS 4b 3
15CrenationE1 5a *20
16Heather Slab Groove
-
D 138
17Heather SlabS 3c *851
 West's Wallaby Area 
19Capitol ClimbHS 4a *235
20WombatE2 5b ***346
21Live BaitE4 5c *1
22West's WallabyVS 4c *220
23WallerooE2 5c **53
24Wallaby DirectHVS 5a *205
25Late Night FinalS 4a 35
 Maud's Garden Area 
27The ValveE4 5c *13
28Beckermet SlabS 4b *384
29Maud's GardenHVD 3c ***2244
30LybstepVS 4b 24
31Contrary MaryVS 4b *184
32ColdfingerVS 4b 23
33Reset Portion of Galley 37S 4a 67
34Broken SlabS 4a 185
35Dawn PiperHVS 5b *23
36Runner RouteHS 4b *371
37GingE1 5c 11
38Damascus CrackHS 4b *1264
39Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 375
40Third Degree BurnE2 5b 15
41LibraHVS 4c *233
 The Central Massif 
43A Day at the SeasideVS 4b 2
44Joe PublicHS 4a 12
45Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 21
46Little PerforationsE2 6a 3
47WipersVS 4b 11
48Central MassiveD *102
49AquaVS 4b 375
50Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
51Quick BrewE2 5c *10
52Tealeaf CrackS 4a *261
53Cornflake
-
M 24
54A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 45
 Black and Tans Area 
56Rotunda ButtressVS 4c *439
57Rotunda GullyM 133
58Bachelor's ButtressHVS 4c **443
59GypfastE4 5c *19
60Something Biblical
-
E2 6a *1
61Saul's CrackHVS 5a ***1055
62HumdingerE1 5b *141
63Jeffcoat's Chimney VariationsHS 4c *32
64Jeffcoat's ChimneyVD **690
65Jeffcoat's Buttress VariationHS 4b ***47
66Jeffcoat's ButtressHS 5a **818
67The slug Trailf7A **1
68Hanging AroundHVS 5b *30
69Ruby TuesdayE2 5b **88
70Black and TansS 4a ***1989
71Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a *90
72Black VelvetHVD 4a ***1057
73Diamond WednesdayHVS 5a *295
 The Great Slab 
75Hollybush CrackVS 4b **451
76Technical SlabHS 4a **1271
77The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b **181
78Technical Slab + The Neb Finish
-
HS 4a ***14
79GiltedE5 6a * 
80Painted RumourE6 6a ***9
81Pedestal Route VariationS 4a 109
82Pedestal RouteHVD 4a ***1561
83Loculus LieE5 6a **5
84The SlothHVS 5a ***1943
85New Fi'nialE6 6b **1
86One Giant Lip for MankindE6 6b **1
87Central RouteVS 4b **772
88The Spectatorship of the ProletariatE5 6b *2
89Right RouteVD ***2186
90Right Route RightHS 4b *184
91Kelly's DirectE1 5b **118
92Skin And WishbonesE8 7a *** 
93Kelly's ShelfS 4b *732
94Laughing all the way to the BlankE4 6a *3
95ParalogismE7 6c ***9
96AntithesisE5 6b ***3
97Bed of NailsE3 5b *6
 Roscoe's Wall Area 
99Easy Gully WallS 4a 356
100Jelly RollVS 4b *329
101Magic ChildHVS 5a 11
102Ped X-ingE3 5c *6
103Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b **101
104Roscoe's Wall/Round TableHVS 5b *229
105Crack and CornerS 4c ***887
106Round TableE1 5a **24
107Babbacombe LeeE1 5b *142
108Destination VenusHVS 5b 1
109Fly UnitedE1 5c ** 
110Hangman's CrackS 4a 157
 Blushing Buttress 
112Scarlet WallS 4a 301
113War WoundE1 6a *68
114Left Hand RouteHS 4b **955
115Right Hand RouteHS 4c **965
116Gully WallVS 4b 161
117Grilled FingersHVS 4c 13
118The RibS 4a 253
119Rib WallVD 287
120Rib Wall Direct StartS 4c *36
121SparkleHS 4b 137
 Calcutta Buttress 
123Sign of the TimesE1 5c 38
124Calcutta CrackHS 4b *240
125MistralE2 6a *14
126Calcutta ButtressVS 5a *71
127GenetixE3 6a *4
128Stop... Carry on!HVS 5a 12
129Calcutta Crab DanceHS 4c **6
 Right-Hand End 
131Pepper
-
VS 5a 11
132Garlic
-
HVS 5a 8
133Ou est le Spit?E6 6b *4
134Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
 Upper Tier Boulders 
 The Rippler 
137Back Aretef2+ 1
138Left ArÍtef4 *216
139Grand Theftf7C **1
140GTAV11  
141The Ripplerf6A *227
142The Rippler Sit Startf7A 25
143Lip-ServiceV7 1
144The Bossf6C *62
145Ripple ArÍtef4 38
 Little Boulder 
147Nosyf3 70
148Uprightf3 63
 The Nose 
150The Nose Traversef6B *1
151Crimpy Wallf4+ *231
152Nose Aretef4+ *209
153Nose ArÍte Rightf5+ 138
154Nose Scoopf6A 149
155Nose Mantelf2+ 104
 Joe's Boulder 
157The Bishop's Movef3+ *487
158Joe's ArÍtef6A ***880
159Joe's Rightf5 35
160Pink Wallf5 *141
161Pink Wall Eliminatef7A **66
162Joe's Portholesf4+ *474
163Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 69
164Joe's Portholes Eliminatef5+ 77
165Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B *27
166Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ *37
 The Long Boulder 
168Nadin's Traversef7A 158
169Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Linkf7A+ **14
170Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Linkf7B *9
171Jug Upf4+ 180
172Glued Upf6A 85
173Regf7A 49
174Pixief5+ 73
175Staircasef5+ *309
176Cooper's Traverse ExtensionV5 3
177Cooper's Traversef6A+ *168
178Mantelf5 35
179Long Boulder Mantelf4 46
 Don's Boulder 
181Don's Crackf5 **394
182Don's Crack Eliminatef6B 82
183Don's ArÍtef3+ *289
 The Wing 
185Wingerf5+ *94
186Wing Wongf5+ **187
187The Beakf6B **144
188Broken Wingf6C+ **114
 Great Slab Bouldering 
190Popperf3+ *44
191Slab Dancerf4+ *22
192Flap Dancerf7B 6
193The Lintelf5+ *45
194Cheesy Moonf3+ *25
195Long Traversef5 49
196Goat's Grufff4+ *41
197Goat's Eyef5+ *55
198Goat's Eye - Sitting Startf6B+ 25
199The Monodoigtf7B+ *5
200Flake Museumf5+ *9
201Scallopf4+ 14
 Grooves Boulder 
203Slippery Groovef4+ *88
204Arete on Left (Grooves)f5 *94
205Easy Groove (Grooves)f4 **126
206Flakes and Chipsf4+ **389
207Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 32
208Bancroft's 6bf7A+ *44
209Higginson's Armf7B+ **1
210Left Groovef6B+ ***107
211Right Groovef6A+ **87
212Vague ArÍtef6A 23
213The Nose (Grooves)f6B *57
214Juggy Groovef5+ *90
 Crack and Corner Area 
216Magic Crossingf5 *2
217Toucanf7A *8
218Lichenthropef7A+ **8
219Crack Indirectf5+ *7
220Crack Startf5 **20
221Babbacombe Startf5 **29
222Polishf7A+ 2
223Sheep Shitf7A+ **2
224Sheep Shit Crackf6C+ **18
225Oikf6A *18
 Calcutta Bouldering 
227Bombay Overhangf5+ **67
228Calcutta Crimpf6B+ **49
229Calcutta Meadowf7A **4
230Sleeping with the Flowersf6C+ **110
231Sign Startf5+ *20
232Dirtnapf7B **3
233Mistral Startf6B *76
234Limbless Limbo Dancerf7A **109
235Dish Grabf6B+ *49
236Calcutta Ribf5+ **41
237Calcutta Traversef6A *182
238The Black Hole Start
-
f7A *29
239Delhi Bellyf7C ***1
240Gritstone Bouldering Pissupf6C **1
241Too Drunkf7A **98
242Drunk Enoughf6C+ *78
 The Attic 
244Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ **10
245Roof Problemf5+ 6
246The Squirmf4 12
247The Finger/Spike Leef5 **2
248Handy Wallf5 *11
249Mountyf3+ *19
250Barleyf5 *4
251Chasm ArÍtef6A **5
252Sexy Stevef6A+ *2
253Scrackf4 **39
254Reachy Wallf6A *13
255Runnel Rouserf4+ *12
256Aretef3+ *3
257Risky Runnelf5 *6
 The Cellar 
259The Gatesf7A *1
260Crinkly Wallf5+ *22
261Ride My Pimpf6B *2
262The Downpipef6C+ **8
263Pipe Entryf7A 4
264Night Riderf7B+ *1
265Left Slab (Cellar)f4 *42
266Tiny Groovef3 *59
267Right Slabf3 *61
268Cellar Dwellaf7A+  
269Cellar Slab 1f5 *50
270Cellar Slab 2f5+ *60
271Easy Groove (Cellar)f2+ *78
 The Cube 
273Flakes (Cube)f5 **23
274Cube Crackf3+ **18
275Period Dramaf6A * 
276Jumpf6C **21
277The Cube Directf7B+ **2
278The Cubef6B ***45
279The Pubef6A+ **19
280Right Pubef6A+ *6
281Back Crackf5 * 
282Cube Traversef6A+ *3
283K2f2+ **38
284K3f4+ *15
285Summit Slabf5+ *11
286Notch Slabf5+ *40
2872Kf2+ **11
288Traverse Of The Triangular SlabV0+ 12
 Where are these?? 
290Pac Man
-
f5 *2
291Two Chips
-
f4+ *2
292Traversed to Scrackf5+ *1
293Upper Tier Ridge3 *3
294Dazed and Confused *E3 6a **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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