UKC

Climbs 281
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SW

Neb Buttress in the evening light © Fidget

Crag features

Big, popular and well-worn with routes up to 30m long at all grades. More open than the Lower Tier and, except for the left-hand end, usually in condition throughout the year. Many classics to choose from (even multi-pitch) in fine positions! Best routes: Pedestal Route (HVD), Black and Tans (S), Saul's Crack (HVS 5a), The Sloth (HVS 5a), Wombat (E2 5c), Gypfast (E4 5c) and Paralogism (E7 6c).

To get there, the nearest postcode is the Roaches Tea Room just down the road: ST13 8TY

Approach notes

Limited parking below the crag. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
At the Roaches yesterday (Aug 29th, 2016) and everyone who parked outside of the marked parking areas in the Restricted Zone received a Penalty Notice (parking ticket from the Police).
afx22 - 30/Aug/16
Just to let you know the area between Easy gully and Demascus on upper tier is closed due to falcon nesting.
mevanssmith - 16/Apr/13
This crag is very green at the moment.
CharlesE - 20/Mar/11
There is presently a restriction in place on the upper tier around the Sloth/Black and Tans area for nesting Perrigren Falcons and as such much of the upper tier climbs are essentially closed. The Roaches are stupidly busy, with very noisy university and climbing clubs shouting nonsense about 'being the man' and upperclass twits shouting about what they can and can not do, paying no respect to hikers and other climbers who might want a pleasant day out. One look at the chaos, we sacked it and went elsewhere.
jimorothy - 22/Mar/09
Climbed on the Roaches (Upper Tier) for the first time yesterday. Plenty of varied climbs in a good range of grades topped by magnificent views. Rather exposed though - as we found out during the occasional downpour! Must surely be up there with Stannge for the Peak's best crag.
Dave - 05/Jun/05
Today is the 22nd of May and I would just like to offer my sympathies to the climber who fell at the Roaches today and that I wish him a speedy recovery to climbing again. Also a drink to the emergency sevices who responded with speed and skill.
Frank Morgan - 22/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-Hand Section
2 Rooster HVD * 555
3 Centre Slab f6C ** 28
4 Chicken Run HVD * 677
5 Freak Out E1 5b 5
6 Fern Crack S 4b ** 830
7 Heartbleed HVS 5b 5
8 Demon Wall VS 5a * 54
9 Perverted Staircase HVS 5a 63
10 Simpkin's Overhang E4 5c ** 9
11 Inverted Staircase D *** 1740
12 The Tower of Bizarre Delights E3 5c * 11
13 The Sublime E2 5b * 9
14 Pickpocket VS 4b 4
15 Crenation E1 5a * 22
16 Heather Slab Groove
-
D 139
17 Heather Slab S 3c * 890
  West's Wallaby Area
19 Capitol Climb HS 4b * 233
20 Wombat E2 5b *** 382
21 Live Bait E4 5c * 1
22 West's Wallaby VS 4c * 236
23 Walleroo E2 5c ** 56
24 Wallaby Direct HVS 5a ** 217
25 Late Night Final HS 4a 40
  Maud's Garden Area
27 The Valve E4 5c * 15
28 Beckermet Slab HVD 4a * 392
29 Maud's Garden HVD 3c *** 2421
30 Lybstep VS 4b 23
31 Contrary Mary VS 4b * 192
32 Coldfinger VS 4b 27
33 Reset Portion of Galley 37 HS 4b * 68
34 Broken Slab HS 4b * 187
35 Dawn Piper HVS 5b 23
36 Runner Route HS 4b ** 380
37 Ging E1 5c 12
38 Damascus Crack HS 4b ** 1340
39 Damascus Crack Left-Hand Finish
-
VS 4b 413
40 Third Degree Burn E2 5b * 15
41 Libra HVS 4c * 231
  The Central Massif
43 A Day at the Seaside VS 4b 2
44 Joe Public HS 4a 12
45 Lone Ascent
-
VS 4c 22
46 Little Perforations E2 6a 3
47 Wipers VS 4b 11
48 Central Massive D * 99
49 Aqua VS 4b * 404
50 Public Enemy Number One
-
HVS 5a 5
51 Quick Brew E2 5c * 10
52 Tealeaf Crack S 4a * 263
53 Cornflake
-
M 25
54 A Short Trip To A Transylvanian Brain Surgery
-
S 4a 46
  Black and Tans Area
56 Rotunda Buttress VS 4c * 459
57 Rotunda Gully M 140
58 Bachelor's Buttress HVS 4c ** 460
59 Gypfast E4 5c * 20
60 Something Biblical
-
E2 6a * 1
61 Saul's Crack HVS 5a *** 1040
62 Humdinger E1 5b ** 145
63 Jeffcoat's Chimney Variations HS 4c * 32
64 Jeffcoat's Chimney VD ** 724
65 Jeffcoat's Buttress Variation HS 4b *** 55
66 Jeffcoat's Buttress HS 5a *** 866
67 The slug Trail f7A ** 1
68 Hanging Around HVS 5b * 29
69 Ruby Tuesday E2 5b ** 79
70 Black and Tans S 4a *** 2177
71 Black and Tans Variations
-
HVS 5a * 96
72 Black Velvet S 4a *** 1085
73 Diamond Wednesday HVS 5a * 304
  The Great Slab
75 Hollybush Crack VS 4b ** 449
76 Technical Slab HS 4a *** 1317
77 The Neb Finish
-
VS 4b ** 184
78 Technical Slab + The Neb Finish
-
HS 4a *** 28
79 Gilted E5 6a *  
80 Painted Rumour E6 6a *** 27
81 Pedestal Route Variation S 4a 118
82 Pedestal Route HVD 4a *** 1589
83 Loculus Lie E5 6a ** 5
84 The Sloth HVS 5a *** 2147
85 New Fi'nial E6 6b ** 1
86 One Giant Lip for Mankind E6 6b ** 1
87 Central Route VS 4a ** 831
88 The Spectatorship of the Proletariat E5 6b * 2
89 Right Route VD *** 2303
90 Right Route Right VS 4c * 191
91 Kelly's Direct E1 5b * 112
92 Skin And Wishbones E8 7a **  
93 Kelly's Shelf S 4b * 772
94 Laughing all the way to the Blank E4 6a * 4
95 Paralogism E7 6c *** 12
96 Antithesis E5 6b *** 3
97 Bed of Nails E3 5b ** 6
  Roscoe's Wall Area
99 Easy Gully Wall HVD 4a * 387
100 Jelly Roll VS 4c ** 339
101 Magic Child HVS 5a 14
102 Ped X-ing E3 5c * 7
103 Roscoe's Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 127
Climb name Grade
104 Roscoe's Wall/Round Table HVS 5b * 225
105 Crack and Corner HS 4c *** 867
106 Round Table E1 5b * 34
107 Babbacombe Lee E1 5b * 143
108 Destination Venus HVS 5b 1
109 Fly United E1 5c ** 1
110 Hangman's Crack S 4a 163
  Blushing Buttress
112 Scarlet Wall HS 4a * 329
113 War Wound E1 6a * 71
114 Left Hand Route S 4b ** 1047
115 Right Hand Route HS 4c ** 1035
116 Gully Wall VS 4b 182
117 Grilled Fingers E1 5a 14
118 The Rib D 266
119 Rib Wall S 4a 302
120 Rib Wall Direct Start S 4c * 39
121 Sparkle HS 4b 139
  Calcutta Buttress
123 Sign of the Times E1 6a 39
124 Calcutta Crack HS 4c ** 238
125 Mistral E2 6a * 14
126 Calcutta Buttress HVS 5b * 74
127 Genetix E3 6a * 4
128 Stop... Carry on! HVS 5a 12
129 Calcutta Crab Dance HS 4c ** 8
  Right-Hand End
131 Pepper
-
VS 5a 11
132 Garlic
-
HVS 5a 8
133 Dazed and Confused E3 6a ** 2
134 Ou est le Spit? E6 6b ** 4
135 Seams Polished
-
f5+ 28
136 Proper Gander f7C *** 1
137 Wolfman SS V7  
  Upper Tier Boulders
  The Rippler
140 Back Arete f2+ 11
141 Left Arête f4 * 240
142 Grand Theft f7C ** 1
143 GTA V11  
144 The Rippler f6A * 247
145 The Rippler Sit Start f7A 29
146 The Rippler traverse f6A 1
147 Lip-Service V7 1
148 The Boss f6C * 71
149 Ripple Arête f4 43
  Little Boulder
151 Nosy f3 82
152 Upright f3 73
  The Nose
154 The Nose Traverse f6B * 2
155 Crimpy Wall f4+ * 262
156 Nose Arete f4+ * 244
157 Nose Arête Right f5+ 159
158 Nose Scoop f6A 181
159 Nose Mantel f2+ 118
  Joe's Boulder
161 The Bishop's Move f3+ * 532
162 Joe's Arête f6A *** 996
163 Joe's Right f5 59
164 Pink Wall f5 * 177
165 Pink Wall Eliminate f7A ** 89
166 Joe's Portholes f4+ * 542
167 Joe's Portholes Sit Start
-
f4+ 79
168 Joe's Portholes Eliminate f5+ 86
169 Mean Ol' Bastard
-
f7B * 29
170 Apocalypse Now
-
f7A+ * 38
171 Joe's Pride V3 1
  The Long Boulder
173 Nadin's Traverse f7A 177
174 Nadin's Traverse - Reg
-
f7A+ * 2
175 Nadin's Traverse - Staircase Link f7A+ ** 15
176 Nadin's Traverse - Cooper's Traverse Link f7B * 9
177 Jug Up f4+ 200
178 Glued Up f6A 96
179 Reg f7A 63
180 Pixie f5+ 85
181 Staircase f5+ * 344
182 Cooper's Traverse Extension V5 5
183 Cooper's Traverse f6A+ * 189
184 Mantel f5 43
185 Long Boulder Mantel f4 49
  Don's Boulder
187 Don's Crack f5 ** 432
188 Don's Crack Eliminate f6B 102
189 Don's Arête f3+ * 315
  The Wing
191 Winger f5+ * 120
192 Wing Wong f5+ ** 218
193 The Beak f6B ** 164
194 Broken Wing f6C+ ** 130
  Great Slab Bouldering
196 Popper f3+ * 60
197 Slab Dancer f4+ * 35
198 Flap Dancer f7B 6
199 The Lintel f5+ * 56
200 Cheesy Moon f3+ * 37
201 Long Traverse f5 60
202 Goat's Gruff f4+ * 49
203 Goat's Eye f5+ * 66
204 Goat's Eye - Sitting Start f6B+ 31
205 The Monodoigt f7B+ * 5
206 Flake Museum f5+ * 11
Climb name Grade
207 Scallop f4+ 17
  Grooves Boulder
209 Slippery Groove f4+ * 107
210 Arete on Left (Grooves) f5 * 110
211 Easy Groove (Grooves) f4 ** 155
212 Flakes and Chips f4+ ** 444
213 Flakes and Chips without the Chips
-
f6B 35
214 Bancroft's 6b f7A+ * 45
215 Higginson's Arm f7B+ ** 3
216 Left Groove f6B+ *** 133
217 Right Groove f6A+ ** 97
218 Vague Arête f6A 29
219 The Nose (Grooves) f6B * 62
220 Juggy Groove f5+ * 96
  Crack and Corner Area
222 Magic Crossing f5 * 4
223 Toucan f7A * 9
224 Lichenthrope f7A+ ** 8
225 Crack Indirect f5+ * 9
226 Crack Start f5 ** 26
227 Babbacombe Start f5 ** 34
228 Polish f7A+ 2
229 Sheep Shit f7A+ ** 3
230 Sheep Shit Crack f6C+ ** 21
231 Oik f6A * 22
  Calcutta Bouldering
233 Bombay Overhang f5+ ** 73
234 Calcutta Crimp f6B+ ** 49
235 Calcutta Meadow f7A ** 4
236 Sleeping with the Flowers f6C+ ** 107
237 Dirtnap f7B ** 3
238 Sign Start f5+ * 23
239 Mistral Start f6B * 80
240 Limbless Limbo Dancer f7A ** 133
241 Dish Grab f6B+ * 59
242 Calcutta Rib f5+ ** 45
243 Calcutta Traverse f6A * 218
244 The Black Hole Start
-
f7A * 37
245 Delhi Belly f7C *** 1
246 Decapitation by Spaghettification V6 2
247 Black Hole Rib V5+ 2
248 Enough Of This Gravity Stuff. V6 3
  Too Drunk Boulder
250 Too Drunk f7A ** 96
251 Drunk Enough f6C+ * 95
252 Gritstone Bouldering Pissup f6C ** 1
  The Attic
254 Stretch Armstrong
-
f6C+ ** 10
255 Roof Problem f5+ 6
256 The Squirm f4 13
257 The Finger/Spike Lee f5 ** 3
258 Handy Wall f5 * 13
259 Mounty f3+ * 20
260 Barley f5 * 5
261 Chasm Arête f6A ** 5
262 Sexy Steve f6A+ * 2
263 Scrack f4 ** 47
264 Reachy Wall f6A * 15
265 Runnel Rouser f4+ * 14
266 Arete f3+ * 4
267 Risky Runnel f5 * 6
  The Cellar
269 The Gates f7A * 1
270 Crinkly Wall f5+ * 21
271 Ride My Pimp f6B * 3
272 The Downpipe f6C+ ** 10
273 Pipe Entry f7A 5
274 Night Rider f7B+ * 1
275 Left Slab (Cellar) f4 * 48
276 Tiny Groove f3 * 67
277 Right Slab f3 * 68
278 Cellar Dwella f7A+  
279 Cellar Slab 1 f5 * 54
280 Cellar Slab 2 f5+ * 67
281 Easy Groove (Cellar) f2+ * 87
  The Cube
283 Flakes (Cube) f5 ** 25
284 Cube Crack f3+ ** 20
285 Period Drama f6A * 1
286 Jump f6C ** 21
287 Jump SS
-
V7  
288 The Cube Direct f7B+ ** 2
289 The Cube f6B *** 48
290 The Pube f6A+ ** 21
291 Right Pube f6A+ * 6
292 Back Crack f5 * 2
293 Cube Traverse f6A+ * 3
294 K2 f2+ ** 41
295 K3 f4+ * 17
296 Summit Slab f5+ * 15
297 Notch Slab f5+ * 42
298 2K f2+ ** 14
299 Traverse Of The Triangular Slab V0+ 5b 12
300 Cave Exit
-
V7  
301 Back Arete V0  
302 The Rack V1  
  Where are these??
304 Pac Man
-
f5 * 3
305 Two Chips
-
f4+ * 2
306 Traversed to Scrack f5+ * 1
307 Upper Tier Ridge 3 * 3
308 Bobby Custard
-
f7B * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Robin Nichols