UKC

Climbs 285
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 470m a.s.l
Faces SW

The Wings dyno -- Turner's turn. © Jon Read

Crag features

A pleasant escape from the crowds at the main edge, particularly the further left you go. Smaller (8 to 20m), but open, quick drying and less worn, the Skyline is well worth a few visits with excellent micro-routes on superb rock. Recommended routes include Slab and Arete (S), Safety Net (E1), Acid Drop (E4), San Melas (E3), Entropy's Jaw (E5), Wings of Unreason (E4), Track of the Cat (E5) and Art Nouveau (E6). Quality bouldering areas include Doxey's Pool and the miniaturesque Very, Very Far Skyline.

Approach notes

Limited parking below the Roaches. Obvious track leads to the Lower Tier. Upper Tier is above (!), The Skyline the northward (left) continuation of the Upper Tier.

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Who nicked "Tightrope"...it used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Very Far Skyline Boulders
2 Small Chasm Arete V1 5b * 44
3 Green Jam Crack V0- 4c 10
4 Rounded Arete f3 * 152
5 Open Groove f5 ** 148
6 Two Pocket Slab f5+ ** 218
7 Lazy Trout f5+ ** 155
8 Eager Trout f5+ ** 109
9 Clamp Arete f6A ** 113
10 Clamp Arete - Sit-start
-
V7 6b 55
11 Crack (Very Far Skyline) f3 * 79
12 Harry Patch f4 * 52
13 Bernie f6A * 60
14 Bernie Sit Start V6 * 31
15 Off Fingers Crack f5+ * 61
16 Pinkies to Perkies f4 ** 113
17 Slab Crack f3 33
18 Slab Walk f3 ** 107
19 Slab Arete f5 * 64
20 Inner Tube f6A+ * 82
21 Short Arete
-
V0- 5a 34
22 Wall and Rib f3+ * 124
23 Left Crack f3+ * 148
24 Right Crack f3+ * 127
25 Easy Ramp f3 * 115
26 Flight Exam f5+ ** 222
27 The Loner f6A * 81
28 The Shepherd f6C+ ** 21
29 Leek Hills f6B+ ** 69
30 Leek Flake f5 * 4
  Very Far Skyline Boulders lower level
32 Engel's Arete V0-  
33 Aurora V0+  
34 Red Star V2  
35 October Arete V0  
36 Poppy Slab V0  
  HARD VERY FAR BUTTRESS
38 Willow Farm E4 6a ** 23
39 Enchanted Forest / Inspiration Point E2 5c ** 18
40 Track of the Cat E5 6a *** 90
41 Nature Trail E5 6b * 26
42 Wings of Unreason E4 6a *** 419
43 Counterstroke of Equity E5 6c * 6
44 Counterstroke of Equity Direct E7 6c *** 1
45 Prelude to Space HVS 4c ** 257
46 One Eyed Willy f7A+ * 2
47 Very Connoisseurish E2 6a 10
48 The Parrot and the Balaclava HS 4b 9
49 Crack (Art Nouveau) f4 9
  VERY FAR BUTTRESS
51 Curvature VS 4b 27
52 Mr Decisive HVS 5b 19
53 Triple Point E1 5c * 82
54 Triple Point Direct
-
none 6b 5
55 Wild Thing HVS 5c ** 218
56 Wild Thing Sit Start f6B ** 5
57 Pereverse Traverse f7B+ *** 1
58 Entropy's Jaw E5 6b *** 64
59 Script for a Tier E6 6c * 8
60 Mild Thing D * 67
61 The calf path E2 6b 1
  ART NOUVEAU
63 Side-pull Wall f7A *** 36
64 Crack (Art Nouveau) V0- 18
65 Flaky Romp f4+ * 8
66 Juggy Flakeline f4+ * 11
67 Crack and Arete f6A+ * 4
68 Mono Slab f4+ * 17
69 Art Nouveau f7B+ *** 14
70 Coma Sutra HS 4b 11
71 Pop Art
-
VS 5a 8
72 Transcendental Medication D 8
  FAR SKYLINE BUTTRESS
74 Microcosm
-
D 11
75 Flutterbye Grooves
-
S 4a 12
76 Chronicle VS 5b 6
77 Tree Corner
-
D 9
78 Tree Grooves
-
VD 15
79 Pogo HVS 5b  
80 Steeplechaser
-
D * 16
81 Slither
-
S 16
82 Mudhopper
-
VD 9
83 Dazzler
-
S 4a * 13
84 Steeplechase Crack
-
VD 9
85 Honky Tonk S 4a ** 24
86 Entente Cordiale E3 5c * 10
87 The Chimney S 4b * 13
88 Dangler
-
VS 4b 23
89 Black Ram Arete VS 4c * 18
90 Black Ram VD 19
  Not So Far Skyline Buttress
92 Deep in Mystery
-
E1 5b 2
93 Not so Fast VS 5a 1
94 Don't Go Down to the Woods Today
-
VS 4b * 12
  CHASM BOULDERS
96 Rounded Feature f4+ * 15
97 Triptych Groove f6C+ * 17
Climb name Grade
98 Gritstone Pimple f6B * 7
99 Ramp f4+ * 9
100 Mantel
-
f4+ 9
101 Harder Mantel
-
f6A+ 6
102 Acne Arete f7A * 2
103 Squeezer's Spots f6C 1
104 Spotter's Pop f6B 2
105 Puss in Boots f6C 3
106 Spotter's Slop f7A 5
  DOXEY'S POOL
108 Left Cheek f6C  
109 Soggy Bottom Crack f5+ 7
110 Ledge Jump f6A+  
111 Staffordshire Face f6C * 6
112 The Staffordshire Flyer f6B *** 245
113 The Arete f6C *** 62
114 Another Nadin Traverse f7C *** 2
115 The Drowning Pool f7A+ *** 18
116 The Drowning Pool - standing start
-
V4 ** 37
117 Groovy Crack f5 * 156
118 Chipped Wall f3+ * 157
119 Thin Flake f5 * 112
120 The Drowning Traverse f4+ * 30
121 Side-wall f6C * 1
122 Slanting Crack VB 27
123 Arete on Left f6B * 28
124 Arete on Right f5 ** 74
125 Blind Flake f5+ * 98
126 Little Pocket Slab Left f6C+ * 16
127 Little Pocket Slab f6C * 1
128 Archway f6A+ * 17
129 Little Flake f5+ * 133
130 Little Flake Sit-start V5 6b 6
131 Bulging Arete f6C * 83
132 Hand Crack f4 6
133 Easy Arete f3+ * 128
134 Pancake f4 ** 185
135 Li'l Crack f2+ 98
136 Li'l Arete f2+ 29
137 The Man with the Red Face f7A ** 3
138 The Mermaid f6A ** 6
  ALPHA BUTTRESS
140 Bone Idol VS 4c 7
141 Omega
-
S 4a 13
142 Melaleucion HVS 5a * 64
143 Rodeo E1 6a * 6
144 Devotoed VS 5a 118
145 Alpha VD * 244
146 Alpha Arete S 4a * 278
147 Breakfast Corner M 138
148 Formative Years E3 6a 39
149 Breakfast Problem VD * 390
150 Days Gone By S 4a * 286
151 San Melas E3 5c *** 338
152 Hallow to our Men E4 6b * 4
153 Mantis E1 5b *** 152
154 Bounty Killer VS 5a 13
155 Sennapod VD 128
156 Sennopod Crack VD 2
157 Sennapod Crack VD 118
158 39th Step E2 6a 32
159 Wallaby Wall HS 4b * 271
160 Right-hand Route S 4a ** 238
161 Definitive Gaze E1 5c * 56
162 Wicked Wind E3 5c 1
163 Pretty Gritty E1 5c 7
164 Looking for Today HVS 5b * 57
  SKYLINE BUTTRESS
166 Go Girl
-
HVD 8
167 Come Girl HS 4b 9
168 Bilberry Traverse
-
VS 4a 5
169 Slips E3 6a 8
170 Pinnacle Crack D 57
171 Split Personality E1 5b 38
172 Pinnacle Arete VS 4c * 123
173 Pinnacle Slab HVD 29
174 Sonny's Route VS 4c * 5
175 Mantelshelf Slab VS 4b * 173
176 Enigma Variation E2 5b ** 132
177 Karabiner Chimney HVD * 125
178 Karabiner Slab HVS 4c * 147
179 Karabiner Cracks D 89
180 Poodle Vindaloo E2 5c 2
181 Abstract
-
HVS 5a 2
182 Slab and Arete S 4a ** 519
183 Drop Acid E4 6a 4
184 Acid Drop E4 5c ** 39
185 Skytrain E2 5b * 36
186 As Time Goes By VD 3
187 Purple Fingers HS 4b 3
188 Sally James
-
VS 4c 13
189 Mistaken Identity
-
S 4a 24
190 Capstan's Corner D 26
191 Cave Buttress
-
VD 9
192 Cave Arete S 4a * 95
193 Stephen VS 5a * 6
194 Automatix E2 5b 4
Climb name Grade
195 Cave Crack HVS 5a * 37
196 King Ding V8 * 1
197 King Swing VS 5a 8
198 Connector VS 4b 21
199 Joiner VD * 50
200 Sorcerer's Apprentice
-
VS 4c 6
201 Tower Eliminate HVS 5b * 15
202 Curiosity Kitten E3 6a 2
203 Tower Face E2 5b * 37
204 Tower Chimney D * 105
205 Perched Block Arete VD ** 204
206 Perched Block Arete, Direct Finish
-
VS 4b * 38
207 Perched Block Arete (right hand finish) HVS 4c * 11
208 Shrug E2 5b 8
209 Thrug VS 5a ** 230
  TRIO BUTTRESS
211 Bad Poynt D * 206
212 Oversight HVD * 258
213 Wad Man Slang
-
S 4a 20
214 Cold Man's Finger E1 5b * 31
215 Ogden VD ** 414
216 Ogden Arete HS 4c * 257
217 Ogden Recess VD 72
218 Black Pig VS 4c * 305
219 Spare Rib VS 4c * 144
220 Bad Sneakers E2 5c 55
221 Spectrum HVS 4c 63
222 Middleton's Motion VS 4b 36
223 Rowan Tree Traverse VD * 15
224 Strain Station E4 5c * 2
225 Topaz E2 5b ** 105
226 Letter Box Cracks VS 4c * 20
227 Letter Box Gully M 67
228 Hank's Horror E1 5b 8
229 Paul's Puffer E4 6b 6
230 Pebbles on a Wessex Beach E3 5c 6
231 Safety Net E1 5b *** 599
232 Ear 'ere E2 6a * 1
233 Shortcomings E1 5c ** 224
234 Rassp! E2 5c 4
235 Left Twin Crack HS 4b 109
236 Square Chimney D 124
237 Trio Chimney VD * 51
238 Substance VS 4c 63
239 Lighthouse VD 335
240 Ralph's Mantelshelves S 4a 126
241 Ralph's Direct
-
HVD 4a 13
  CONDOR BUTTRESS
243 Condor Slab VS 4c ** 418
244 A.M. Anaesthetic HVS 4c * 79
245 Cracked Arete HVD 291
246 Condor Chimney VD 145
247 Nosepicker E1 5a 85
248 Johnny Pooh Poohed E2 6a 2
249 Licensed to fill HVS 4c 15
250 Time to be Had HVD * 292
251 Toxic Socks
-
HVS 5b 29
252 Tobacco Road VS 4c * 171
253 Wheeze HVS 4c * 68
254 Bruno Flake VS 4b * 109
255 Navy Cut VD 152
256 False Chicane
-
VD 66
257 Chicane S 4a 153
258 Chicanery HVD 5
259 Lung Cancer S 3c 117
260 Southpaw S 17
261 In Passing E2 5c * 7
262 The Pugilist
-
HVS 5c * 13
  Unknown or New Additions
264 Happy Hooker HVS 5b 3
265 5+ f5 * 3
266 Proto-chicken S 4b 2
267 Chicken S 1
268 Egg S 2
269 Shipwreck V0  
270 Recess Wall and Arete HVS 4c 1
271 Square arête f6B+ 1
272 Jurrasic World E3 5a * 1
273 The Hang Before Time E2 5b ** 2
274 Scooby right wall V1 1
275 Dr Hyde V2 1
276 Dr Jackel V7 1
277 Theos Patch VB 1
278 Les Crack VS 4c * 2
279 Footprints V0-  
280 Island Hopper V0-  
281 No Man's Slab V0-  
282 Castaway Rib V0  
283 Outback V0  
284 Walkabout V1  
285 Marooned V1  
286 Little Pocket Right hand
-
V5 1
287 Tightrope VS 4b 2
288 Princess Layer VS 4c  
289 Déjà 3 VS 4c  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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