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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 331
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 462m a.s.l
Faces SW

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The Wings dyno -- Turner's turn. © Jon Read

Crag features

The Skyline Area of the Roaches is really just a continuation of the main edge running northwards up the ridge, presenting odd decent sections of rock in the shape of small buttresses and wind-worn boulders. Although close to the busy Upper and Lower Tiers, the Skyline area offers climbing in much quieter and more remote setting. The dramatic setting makes for a spectacular bouldering location which is added to by the excellent quality of many of the problems. 

Sitting at the highest point of the ridge, the Skyline catches all the weather going be it wind, rain or shine. This makes it a delightful place in good weather but best keep away when a cold westerly is blowing. It dries quickly and there isn't much green rock.

Approach notes

The best approach is from the parking by the roadside at Roach End. This can be reached off the A53 by the road under the main Roaches crag, or the road around the back which leads past Ramshaw or the Newstones. From the parking, head up the well-worn path to the summit trig point. Continue from here to drop down towards the main edge. Just after passing a line of soft undercut buttresses on the left, is a west-facing wall on the right - The Very Far Skyline. All the areas can also be easily reached from the top of the Roaches Upper Tier.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Who nicked "Tightrope"...it used to go across the San Melas slab and finsih up "Mantis"...??
Chris.Allott - 11/Jul/13
Its just that little further away from the road, just a bit soggier underfoot, and the wind is definatly stronger. But this adds up to a quiet group of buttresses, even on busy days despite a load of interesting little routes in the mid grades.
augustus trout - 11/Apr/10
There is also some lesser known but worthwhile bouldering on either side of the approach path to Hard Very Far Skyline from the N (before the trig point). Highlights include some rounded mantels on the far side of the first rocks on the L, (some quite hard but low and safe with nice landings) a hanging crack between 2 blocks on the R by the path a little further up and some nice bits and pieces on the hillside below that.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
The Doxey Pool. (sort of part of the skyline) This is a small but busy area, as it lies on the route of the Staffs way, but in terms of bouldering, the problems are excellent. Try inparticular Staffordshire Flyer and The Dead Pool. Bring a big mat or a paddling pool cos the watter is a bit grim most of the time! If youre on the Roches this is worth a visit. Dave Miller
Dangerous Dave - 19/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Very Far Skyline
2 Small Chasm Arête V1 * 45
3 Green Jam Crack
-
V0- 9
4 Rounded Arête f3 * 170
5 Open Groove f5 ** 172
6 Two Pocket Slab f5+ ** 252
7 Lazy Trout f5+ ** 183
8 Eager Trout f5+ ** 125
9 Clamp Arête f6A ** 132
10 Clamp Arête Sit-start
-
V7 71
11 Crack f3 * 98
12 Harry Patch f4 * 59
13 Bernie f6A * 76
14 Bernie Sit-start
-
V6 * 35
15 Off Fingers Crack f5+ * 73
16 Pinkies to Perkies f4 ** 130
17 Slab Crack f3 51
18 Slab Walk f3 ** 130
19 Slab Arête f5 * 81
20 Inner Tube f6A+ * 100
21 Short Arête
-
V0- 37
22 Wall and Rib f3+ * 148
23 Left Crack f3+ * 178
24 Right Crack f3+ * 157
25 Easy Ramp f3 * 145
26 Flight Exam f5+ ** 254
27 The Loner f6A * 93
28 The Shepherd f6C+ ** 30
29 Leek Hills f6B+ ** 85
30 Leek Flake f5 * 5
  The Very Far Skyline Boulders Lower Level
32 Engel's Arête V0-  
33 Aurora V0+  
34 Red Star V2  
35 October Arête V0  
36 Poppy Slab V0  
37 Tommy's Slab * V0-  
38 Triad * V0  
39 Grouse Arête * V1  
40 Curlew Arête * V2  
41 The Canvas * V0-  
42 The Sketch * V0-  
  Jackel and Hyde Block
44 Scooby Right Wall V1 1
45 Grotto Chimney * VD  
46 Mystery Machine * V0-  
47 Dr Hyde V2 1
48 Theo's Patch VB 1
49 Dr Jackel V7 1
  Hard Very Far Skyline
51 Willow Farm E4 6a ** 24
52 Track of the Cat E5 6a *** 110
53 Inspiration Point E2 5c ** 20
54 Nature Trail E5 6b * 26
55 Wings of Unreason E4 6a *** 471
56 Counterstroke of Equity E5 6c * 8
57 Counterstroke of Equity Direct E7 6c *** 1
58 Prelude to Space HVS 4c ** 289
  Very Far Skyline
60 One Eyed Willy f7A+ * 2
61 Very Connoisseurish E2 6a 10
62 The Parrot and the Balaclava HS 4b 9
63 Curvature VS 4b 30
64 Mr Decisive
-
HVS 5b 19
65 Triple Point Direct
-
E1 6b 5
66 Triple Point E1 5c * 88
67 Wild Thing HVS 5c ** 243
68 Wild Thing Sit-start
-
f6B ** 6
69 Pereverse Traverse f7B+ *** 1
70 Entropy's Jaw E5 6b *** 73
71 Script for a Tier E6 6c * 8
72 The Calf Path E2 6b 1
73 Mild Thing D * 70
  Art Nouveau
75 Ton-Up * S  
76 Jaunty * E1 5b  
77 Coma Sutra HS 4b 11
78 Art Nouveau f7B+ *** 19
79 Pop Art
-
VS 5a 8
80 Transcendental Medication D 9
81 Side-pull Wall f7A *** 43
82 Crack f4 27
83 Flaky Romp f4+ * 7
84 Juggy Flakeline f4+ * 11
85 Crack and Arête f6A+ * 5
86 Mono Slab f4+ * 19
  Far Skyline
88 Microcosm
-
HD 10
89 Flutterbye Grooves
-
HS 4a 12
90 Chronicle
-
VS 5b 6
91 Tree Corner
-
D 8
92 Tree Grooves
-
HVD 17
93 Pogo HVS 5b  
94 Steeplechaser
-
D * 17
95 Slither
-
HS 4b 18
96 Mudhopper
-
VD 9
97 Dazzler
-
S 4a * 12
98 Steeplechase Crack
-
VD 10
99 Honky Tonk S 4a ** 26
100 Entente Cordiale E3 5c * 11
101 The Chimney S 4b * 12
102 Dangler
-
VS 4b * 26
103 Black Ram Arête VS 4c * 17
104 Black Ram VD 18
  Not So Far Skyline Buttress
106 Deep in Mystery
-
E1 5b 2
107 Don't Go Down to the Woods Today
-
HS 4b * 12
108 Not Much Further
-
VD  
109 Not So Steep
-
VD  
110 Not So Fast VS 5a 2
111 Monstrous Angel
-
HS 4b  
112 Three Tier Buttress
-
VS 4b  
  Chasm Boulders
114 Rounded Feature f4+ * 21
115 Triptych Groove f6C+ * 26
116 Gritstone Pimple f6B * 9
117 Ramp f4+ * 12
Climb name Grade
118 Mantel
-
f4+ 13
119 Harder Mantel
-
f6A+ 9
120 Acne Arête f7A * 4
121 Squeezer's Spots f6C 1
122 Spotter's Pop f6B 2
123 Puss in Boots f6C 3
124 Spotter's Slop f7A 5
  The Doxey Pool
126 Left Cheek f6C  
127 Soggy Bottom Crack f5+ 7
128 Ledge Jump f6A+ 4
129 Staffordshire Face f6C * 7
130 Staffordshire Flyer f6B *** 272
131 The Arête f6C *** 66
132 The Arête Sit-start
-
V8  
133 Another Nadin Traverse f7C *** 2
134 The Drowning Pool Stand Start
-
V4 ** 49
135 The Drowning Pool f7A+ *** 18
136 Groovy Crack f5 * 184
137 Chipped Wall f3+ * 182
138 Thin Flake f5 * 132
139 The Drowning Traverse f4+ * 33
140 Slanting Crack VB 28
141 Side-wall f6C * 1
142 Arête on Left f6B * 37
143 Arête on Right f5 ** 93
144 Blind Flake f5+ * 117
145 Little Pocket Slab Left f6C+ * 17
146 Little Pocket Slab f6C * 5
147 Archway f6A+ * 21
148 Little Flake f5+ * 145
149 Little Flake Sit-start
-
V5 6
150 Bulging Arête f6C * 104
151 Hand Crack f4 11
152 Easy Arête f3+ * 147
153 Pancake f4 ** 212
154 Li'l Crack f2+ 117
155 Li'l Arête f2+ 44
156 The Man with the Red Face f7A ** 3
157 The Mermaid f6A ** 5
  Alpha Buttress
159 Bone Idol VS 4c 8
160 Omega
-
S 4b 13
161 Melaleucion HVS 5a * 70
162 Rodeo E1 6a * 6
163 Devotoed VS 5a 135
164 Alpha VD * 273
165 Alpha Arête S 4a * 309
166 Breakfast Corner M 151
167 Formative Years E3 6a 40
168 Breakfast Problem VD * 428
169 Days Gone By S 4a * 316
170 Tightrope VS 4b 3
171 San Melas E3 5c *** 389
172 Hallow to our Men E4 6b * 5
173 Mantis E1 5b *** 169
174 Bounty Killer VS 5a 13
175 Sennapod VD 137
176 Sennapod Crack VD 141
177 39th Step E2 6a 33
178 Wallaby Wall HS 4b * 293
179 Definitive Gaze E1 5c * 57
180 Wicked Wind E3 5c 2
181 Right-hand Route S 4a ** 262
182 Pretty Gritty E1 5c 7
183 Looking for Today HVS 5b * 61
  Skyline Buttress
185 Pinnacle Crack D 60
186 Split Personality E1 5b 39
187 Pinnacle Arête VS 4c * 130
188 Pinnacle Slab HVD 31
189 Go Girl
-
HVD 8
190 Come Girl HS 4b 9
191 Sonny's Route VS 4c * 5
192 Mantelshelf Slab VS 4b * 189
193 Enigma Variation E2 5b ** 141
194 Karabiner Chimney HVD * 136
195 Karabiner Slab HVS 4c * 159
196 Karabiner Cracks D 92
197 Abstract
-
HVS 5a 3
198 Poodle Vindaloo E2 5c 2
199 Drop Acid E4 6a 5
200 Acid Drop E4 5c ** 47
201 Slab and Arête S 4a ** 553
202 Skytrain E2 5b * 41
203 Slips E3 6a 8
204 Les Crack VS 4c * 2
205 Bilberry Traverse
-
VS 4b 5
206 As Time Goes By VD 3
207 Purple Fingers HS 4b 3
208 Sally James
-
VS 4c 13
209 Mistaken Identity
-
S 4a 24
210 Capstan's Corner HD 28
211 Cave Buttress
-
VD 9
212 Cave Arête S 4a * 110
213 Stephen VS 5a * 6
214 Automatix E2 5b 5
215 Cave Crack HVS 5a * 38
216 King Ding V8 * 1
217 King Swing VS 5a 8
218 Connector VS 4b 22
219 Joiner VD * 54
  Tower Buttress
221 Sorcerer's Apprentice
-
E1 5b 6
222 Tower Eliminate HVS 5b * 17
223 Curiosity Kitten E3 6a 2
224 Tower Face E2 5b * 44
225 Tower Chimney D * 120
226 Perched Block Arête VD ** 239
227 Perched Block Arête Direct Finish
-
VS 4b * 43
228 Perched Block Arête Right-hand Finish HVS 4c * 12
229 Shrug E2 5b 11
230 Thrug VS 5a ** 266
231 Bad Poynt D * 237
232 Oversite HVD * 299
233 Wad Man Slang
-
S 4a 30
234 Cold Man's Finger E1 5b * 32
Climb name Grade
235 Ogden VD ** 489
236 Ogden Arête HS 4c * 291
237 Ogden Recess VD 75
238 Black Pig VS 4c * 345
239 Spare Rib VS 4c * 161
  Safety Net
241 Bad Sneakers E2 5c 57
242 Bad Sneakers Direct
-
E3 5c  
243 Spectrum HVS 4c 68
244 Middleton's Motion VS 4b 40
245 Rowan Tree Traverse VD * 16
246 Strain Station E4 5c * 2
247 Topaz E2 5b ** 123
248 Letter Box Gully M 71
249 Letter Box Cracks VS 4c * 28
250 Hank's Horror E1 5b 9
251 Paul's Puffer E4 6b 6
252 Pebbles on a Wessex Beach E3 5c 6
253 Safety Net E1 5b *** 689
254 Ear 'ere E2 6a * 1
255 Shortcomings E1 5c ** 263
256 Rassp! E2 5c 4
257 Left Twin Crack HS 4b 126
258 Square Chimney D 130
259 Recess Wall and Arête HVS 4c 4
260 Trio Chimney VD * 56
261 Substance VS 4c 69
262 Lighthouse VD 375
263 Ralph's Mantelshelves S 4a 139
264 Ralph's Direct
-
HVD 4a 15
  Condor Buttress
266 Condor Slab VS 4c ** 459
267 Chicane Destination
-
VS 4c  
268 A.M. Anaesthetic HVS 4c * 87
269 Cracked Arête HVD 317
270 Condor Chimney VD 158
271 Nosepicker E1 5a 84
272 Johnny Pooh Poohed E2 6a 2
273 Licensed to Fill HVS 4c 20
274 Time to be Had HVD * 317
275 Toxic Socks
-
HVS 5b 30
276 Tobacco Road VS 4c * 182
277 Wheeze HVS 4c * 76
278 Bruno Flake VS 4b * 115
279 Navy Cut VD 159
280 False Chicane
-
VD 71
281 Chicanery HVD 6
282 Chicane S 4a 160
283 Lung Cancer S 3c 120
284 Breathless
-
HS 4a  
285 Southpaw S 4b 17
286 In Passing E2 5c * 11
287 The Pugilist
-
HVS 5c * 13
288 Stomach Punch
-
VD 4b  
  Ants in Your Pants
290 Left Arête V1 1
291 Ants in Your Pants f6B 2
292 Right Arête
-
V1 2
  Unknown or New Additions
294 Proto-chicken S 4b 2
295 Chicken S 1
296 Egg S 2
297 Shipwreck V0  
298 Footprints V0-  
299 Island Hopper V0-  
300 No Man's Slab V0-  
301 Castaway Rib V0  
302 Jurrasic World E3 5a * 1
303 The Hang Before Time E2 5b ** 2
  The Bearstone
305 Pooh Bear * V0+ 4c  
306 Piglet * V0 4b  
307 The White Ladder * V2 5c  
308 Tigger * V0 5a  
309 Wol * V0 4b  
310 The Dash * D  
311 Rain Stops Play * VD  
312 Clearing * D  
313 Sunshine * M  
314 Outback V0  
315 Walkabout V1  
316 Marooned V1  
317 Princess Layer VS 4c  
318 Déjà 3 VS 4c  
319 Dug Out * V0 5a  
320 Archie * VD 4b  
321 Wound Stripe * HS 4c  
322 GOK * VD  
323 PWU * V3 5c  
324 The Lair * V0 5a  
325 Lurking * V0- 4c  
326 The Bones * V1 5c  
327 The Eyes Within * V1 5b  
328 The Brow * V0 4c  
329 The Brink * V0 4c  
330 Hilltop Arete * V0 4b  
331 Flap * VD  
332 Slap * S 4a  
333 Slip * HVD  
334 Skip * M  
335 Creft * S  
336 Waft * HS 4c  
337 Wotch * HS 4c  
338 Peasy Rider * V0- 4a  
339 Tipperary * V2 5c  
340 Arrest That Man! * V2 5c  
341 Doodlebug * V1 5b  
342 Brush Up * V0- 4b  
343 Brief Encounter * VD  
344 Oh Sugar * VD  
345 Stun * D  
346 Silent Sea * D  
347 Sea Mist * VD  
348 Saps at Sea * HS 4a  
349 Sanctuary * S 4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond