Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

Blowing the cobwebs away © Dave Foster

Crag features

Cooks up some fantastic experiences. Highly recommended for its single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, such as Crithmum (VS 5a), Rock Idol (E1 5a/b), the fabulous Deep Space (E2 5b - beware puking fulmars), Star Gate (E3 5c), Hyperspace (E4 5c), Warp Factor (E5 6b), and Fireball XL5 (E6 6b). And there are plenty more worth doing at the same grades.

Approach notes

Bird ban on ONE route on the Space Face - Star Gate (E3 5c) March 1 - July 31.
Tidal in many parts. Abseil approach. Take prussiks, just in case.
From Lydstep car park walk E along the coastal path for five or so minutes.

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress or above Strait Gate but be careful not to dislodge loose rocks. This crag is not in the MoD range. Some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)
Pembroke MiniGuide (2006)

Out of print:
The flake on "CRITHMUM" has gone leaving a dirty and loose groove in its place. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.
The Pylon King - 13/Aug/07
An inspiring small crag, though not sure you could spend more than a day or two there at any grade. April 2006 - The stakes at the top seem to have somehow disappeared; we couldn't find any! However, there is still enough large, sturdy rock at the top to give confident abseiling.
Pythonist - 18/Apr/06
amazing steep crag with dramatic but well protected routes - worth spending a couple of days at.
beanfingers - 27/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Strait Gate 
2Walking in the Blue
-
E1 5b 1
3OzE2 5c 1
4AirshipE3 5c 4
5ZeppelinE3 5c ***240
6HindenburgE7 6c ***2
7Rock IdolE1 5a ***790
8Rock Idol Direct Finish
-
E2 5b ***7
9Joyous GardHVS 5a **173
10The Strait GateE1 5b ***479
11The Strait Gate - Left hand FinishHVS 5a *7
12Talk's CheapE4 6b *3
13The Welsh Connection
-
E1 5b **29
14WraithE2 5c **124
15Nimrod
-
E2 5b **14
16NecropolisE1 5a 6
17CrithmumVS 5a *132
18The MeridianVS 4c **263
19SunsmokeE2 5b **179
20WarlockE2 5b 5
21The CracksS **304
22Karma WatersE1 5b *18
23Threadneedle StreetS ***260
 Brazen Buttress 
25Narrow CarriageE1 5c *4
26Eight GaugeHVS 5a 32
27TempestE1 5c **106
28WhirlwindE1 5c *12
29Brazen Buttress Super DirectE3 5c *7
30Brazen ButtressE2 5b ***493
31Brazen Buttress Direct Finish
-
E3 5c **20
32HeroesE2 5b *37
33HerodE2 5b **252
 Star Gate 
35Inner SpaceHVS 4c ***188
36GalaxyE3 5c **14
37The Great CleftE1 5a *1
38Dark Matter *E2 5b ** 
 The Space Face 
40Deep SpaceE2 5b ***244
41Space OdysseyE2 5b ***2
42Star GateE3 5c ***218
43Warp FactorE5 6b **12
44Warp GateE5 6b  
45HyperspaceE4 6a ***11
46Fireball XL5E6 6b ***7
47Just KlingonE5 6a ***61
48Mother NightE4 6a ***43
49ZoonyE5 6b **2
50UnconsciousE6 6c ** 
51Tiger TigerE5 6b ***3
52The Laughing HygenaE6 6c *** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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