Blowing the cobwebs away © Dave Foster
Cooks up some fantastic experiences. Highly recommended for its single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, such as Crithmum (VS 5a), Rock Idol (E1 5a/b), the fabulous Deep Space (E2 5b - beware puking fulmars), Star Gate (E3 5c), Hyperspace (E4 5c), Warp Factor (E5 6b), and Fireball XL5 (E6 6b). And there are plenty more worth doing at the same grades.
Bird ban on ONE route on the Space Face - Star Gate (E3 5c) March 1 - July 31.
Tidal in many parts. Abseil approach. Take prussiks, just in case.
From Lydstep car park walk E along the coastal path for five or so minutes.
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress or above Strait Gate but be careful not to dislodge loose rocks. This crag is not in the MoD range. Some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.
|The flake on "CRITHMUM" has gone leaving a dirty and loose groove in its place. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.|
The Pylon King - 13/Aug/07
|An inspiring small crag, though not sure you could spend more than a day or two there at any grade.
April 2006 - The stakes at the top seem to have somehow disappeared; we couldn't find any! However, there is still enough large, sturdy rock at the top to give confident abseiling.|
Pythonist - 18/Apr/06
|amazing steep crag with dramatic but well protected routes - worth spending a couple of days at.|
beanfingers - 27/Feb/06