Climbs 58
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SE

Blowing the cobwebs away © Dave Foster

Crag features

Cooks up some fantastic experiences. Highly recommended for its single- and multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, such as Crithmum (VS 5a), Rock Idol (E1 5a/b), the fabulous Deep Space (E2 5b - beware puking fulmars), Star Gate (E3 5c), Hyperspace (E4 5c), Warp Factor (E5 6b), and Fireball XL5 (E6 6b). And there are plenty more worth doing at the same grades.

Approach notes

Bird ban on ONE route on the Space Face - Star Gate (E3 5c) March 1 - July 31.
Tidal in many parts. Abseil approach. Take prussiks, just in case.
From Lydstep car park walk E along the coastal path for five or so minutes.

Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress or above Strait Gate but be careful not to dislodge loose rocks. This crag is not in the MoD range. Some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There may be a seasonal restriction to protect chough nesting auks in the area of Inner Space - Star Gate - check signs at site.  At present, although these birds nest within the chimney of Inner Space/Deep Space, no restrictions are in place as the birds seem to cope with occasional visits from climbers. However, if you can minimise noise and disturbance as much as possible, that will be appreciated.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)
Pembroke MiniGuide (2006)

Out of print:
The flake on "CRITHMUM" has gone leaving a dirty and loose groove in its place. Its not too bad if you are careful and i guess will clean up in time but i would give it HVS 5a and 1 star at most.
The Pylon King - 13/Aug/07
An inspiring small crag, though not sure you could spend more than a day or two there at any grade. April 2006 - The stakes at the top seem to have somehow disappeared; we couldn't find any! However, there is still enough large, sturdy rock at the top to give confident abseiling.
Pythonist - 18/Apr/06
amazing steep crag with dramatic but well protected routes - worth spending a couple of days at.
beanfingers - 27/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Strait Gate
2 Walking in the Blue
-
E1 5b 1
3 Oz E2 5c 1
4 Airship E3 5c 4
5 Zeppelin E3 5c *** 255
6 Hindenburg E7 6c *** 2
7 Rock Idol E1 5a *** 843
8 Rock Idol Direct Finish
-
E2 5b *** 9
9 Joyous Gard HVS 5a ** 179
10 The Strait Gate E1 5b *** 498
11 The Strait Gate - Left hand Finish HVS 5a * 7
12 Talk's Cheap E4 6b * 4
13 The Welsh Connection
-
E1 5b ** 32
14 Wraith E2 5c ** 136
15 Nimrod
-
E2 5b ** 18
16 Necropolis E1 5a 7
17 Crithmum VS 5a * 133
18 The Meridian VS 4c ** 280
19 Sunsmoke E2 5b ** 192
20 Warlock E2 5b 5
21 The Cracks S ** 317
22 Karma Waters E1 5b * 18
23 Threadneedle Street S *** 265
  Brazen Buttress
25 Narrow Carriage E1 5c * 4
26 Eight Gauge HVS 5a 37
27 Tempest E1 5c ** 115
28 Whirlwind E1 5c * 13
29 Brazen Buttress Super Direct E3 5c * 7
30 Brazen Buttress E2 5b *** 529
31 Brazen Buttress Direct Finish
-
E3 5c ** 21
32 Heroes E2 5b * 37
33 Herod E2 5b ** 264
  Star Gate
35 Inner Space HVS 4c *** 195
36 Galaxy E3 5c ** 11
37 The Great Cleft E1 5a * 1
38 Dark Matter E2 5b ** 2
  The Space Face
40 Deep Space E2 5b *** 257
41 Space Odyssey E2 5b *** 2
42 Star Gate E3 5c *** 228
43 Warp Factor E5 6b ** 13
44 Warp Gate E5 6b  
45 Hyperspace E4 6a *** 6
46 Fireball XL5 E6 6b *** 7
47 Just Klingon E5 6a *** 69
48 Mother Night E4 6a *** 40
49 Zoony E5 6b ** 2
50 Unconscious E6 6c **  
51 Tiger Tiger E5 6b *** 3
52 The Laughing Hygena E6 6c ***  
53 Entropy * HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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