Climbs 167
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces S

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The 'human spider' a.k.a Howard Lawledge stalking the elusive holds on Pan E4 6a © Emma Alsford

Crag features

This complex area is remarkable for its plethora of walls, caves and buttresses. The climbing here is disjointed and well spread out although there are some great spots for the enthusiast. The climbing on offer is a mix of isolated pitches and some deep water solos.Unlike many of the other areas in Pembroke, the Lystep area is not affected by seasonal bird bans or the movements of the army - now you just have the tides to worry about! 

Approach notes

No Man's Zawn - From Pembroke, take the A4139 towards Tenby. Turn off the A4139 at the (second, eastern-most) sign for Manorbier, which includes a sign for Shrinkle Haven. Follow the road for about 1km, and turn left at another sign for Shrinkle Haven and the Youth Hostel. Follow the road down through the de-restricted signs, and around a sharp left bend by the Royal Artillery Range gate. Continue past the youth hostel, to a group of car parks, and park at the last one, at the top of a short flight of steps. 

All the Other Crags - From the A4139 Pembroke to Tenby road, drive into Lydstep village and find the Lydstep Tavern pub. 50m west of the pub is a small road heading south/downhill; take this and follow it (rough in places) all the way down to a sudden left bend. Turn right on this bend (blue sign: 'headland') and drive up over a cattle grid into the car park. All the Lydstep Cavern crags are described from the Mother Carey's Kitchen car park.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sentinel Zawn
2 Sentinel
-
E4 5c * 2
3 Sweet Surrender E4 5c ** 5
4 Splatter Crack
-
E2 5b  
5 Vanity
-
E2 5b * 2
6 Reflexology
-
E3 5c *  
  No Man's Zawn
8 Welcome to the Benthos 6b  
9 Mikey's Scream 6b  
10 A Calm Sea Never Lies 6a+  
11 Could Do Better
-
E4 6a *  
12 Once a Dunce...
-
E4 6a *  
13 Always a Dunce
-
E3 6a *  
14 White Women E3 5c * 5
15 Pretty in Pink
-
E5 6b *  
16 Head of the Class
-
E5 6b **  
17 Pan E4 6a *** 53
18 Nineteen Eighty-Four E5 6b * 13
19 Class of '86 E5 6b *** 16
20 Please Sir E5 6b * 2
21 Swing Out Sister E6 6b ***  
22 The Dead Zone
-
E1 5b *  
23 Los Diablos
-
E2 5b  
24 Little Cherub
-
VS 4c  
25 Linda's Pillar E2 5b * 5
  Frontier Zawn
  The West Wall
28 Of Gorse It's Worth It
-
E3 5b  
29 Synchronicity
-
E4 6b *  
30 Beyond Control
-
E5 6b *  
31 Navarone
-
E1 5b *  
32 Gunsmoke
-
E3 5c  
33 Swansong E2 5c  
34 Top Gun
-
E5 6a *  
35 Bombshell
-
E2 5b * 2
36 Gunner
-
E2 5b ** 22
37 Zip-Zak
-
E4 6a *** 18
38 Grand Junction
-
HVS 5b ** 20
39 Facts and Figures E4 6a * 1
40 Warsawa
-
E2 5b  
41 Amsterjam
-
E2 5c  
42 Barcelona
-
E3 6a  
  The East Wall
44 Sound and Vision
-
E1 5b * 6
45 Threadbare
-
E2 5b  
46 The Five Year Itch
-
E4 6a  
47 Armour Attack
-
E3 5c 1
48 Eyes on the Prize
-
E4 6b *  
49 The Breech Direct Start
-
E1 5b 1
50 The Breech
-
HVS 5a 5
51 Once More Into...
-
E1 5b  
52 Cannonball Chimney
-
HVS 4c  
53 Sister of Mercy
-
E4 6a * 1
54 Feeling Groovy
-
E3 5c *  
55 Feeling Groovy Variation Start
-
E3 5c  
56 Rumours of Peace
-
E4 6a  
57 Silk Torpedo
-
E2 5b 7
  Bridge Buttress
59 Kelpie Poodle 6a  
60 Bridie Girl 5c  
61 Angry Child 6a *  
62 The Cutting Edge E2 5b * 1
Climb name Grade
63 Musketeer E3 5c *  
64 UDI
-
E3 5c  
  Bridge Zawn
66 Stiletto Direct Start
-
HVS 5a  
67 Stiletto
-
HS 4b 1
68 Claymore Chimney VD 1
69 A Bridge Too Far
-
E2 5b  
70 Ace in the Hole
-
E1 5b ** 5
71 Hannah
-
E5 6b *** 4
72 The Bridge
-
E1 5b * 4
  Skomar Towers - The South Face
74 The Gangway
-
D  
75 Whetstone
-
S 4a  
76 The Sword
-
VS 4c 3
77 Dodging Bullets 3c  
78 Skomar Corner and Groove
-
VS 4b  
79 Beyond Therapy
-
E2 5b *  
80 The Dirk
-
VS 4c 3
81 It's a Crocker
-
E4 5c  
82 Perfect Axis 6c *** 1
83 Toledo
-
VS 4c * 6
84 South-East Arête 6c *  
  Skomar Towers - The East Face
86 The Spear HVS 5a 1
87 Raindance
-
E2 5c *  
88 Dolomite Sprint
-
E3 5c ** 5
89 The Kettle's Boiled
-
E4 6a  
90 The Ragged Crack
-
E4 6a *  
91 Collapsar Dive
-
HVS 5a 1
92 Abracadabra E2 5b ** 8
93 Skomar Corner Variation Start E2 5c * 2
94 Skomar Corner
-
E1 5b * 4
95 Cleaver Chimney
-
S  
  Recess Face
97 Walking Zero
-
E1 5b  
98 Splash Dance
-
E2 5b *  
99 Ride a White Swan
-
HVS 5a  
100 Pheasant Plucker
-
E2 5c *  
101 Fly Like an Eagle
-
E2 5b  
102 Faceless Face
-
E4 5c  
103 Setback Grooves E1 5b 3
104 Gruff Groove
-
E1 5b  
105 Stepping Out
-
E4 5c *  
106 Mellow Yellow
-
E1 5b *  
107 Marking Time
-
E3 5c  
108 Just around the Corner
-
E5 6a *  
  Skomar Arch
110 Back Wall Echo 6b *  
111 White Tash Trash
-
VS 4c *  
112 Dynamite 6b S1 ** 19
113 Water Gel 6b+ S1 ** 3
114 Scotch on the Rocks 7a S1 ** 2
115 Captain Caveman 6c+ S1 *** 5
116 Isostacy 7b S2 **  
117 Vamos 6a S2 *  
118 Sea Leg 6a+ S2 * 5
119 Nobody's Hero 6a+ S1 * 8
120 The Medic 5c S1 * 6
121 Reef Walker 7a S3 *** 5
122 Patch's Shorts
-
4a *  
123 Excalibur 8a S0 *** 3
124 Sand Cyclone 6c+ S1 ** 3
Climb name Grade
125 Restraint of Beasts 6b+ S1 ** 11
126 Piece and Quiet 7b+ **  
  Cool Man Chu Wall
128 Devil of the North
-
6c *  
129 Bitch Walker 6a+ *  
130 Hanging Slab E2 5b  
131 Break Up Dog 6b *  
132 Eustasy 7a ** 2
133 Cool Man Chu 6a+ S0 * 22
134 Planktonitis 5c S0 * 33
135 Big Screen 4c S0 * 49
136 Way Down 3c S0 * 49
137 Reso's Nose 5a S2 * 25
138 Cocko 5a S0 10
139 Crill Wars 4c S2 *  
140 Extras 6a+ S2 3
141 Cold Turkey 6a+ S2 ** 14
142 Stuffing and Salad Baguette
-
S 4a  
143 Sex-pack on the Beach
-
5c * 16
144 Baywatch 6a *** 3
145 Sand on the Slab
-
VD  
  The Twin Caves
147 Calm 5c * 3
148 Charm 5a *  
149 Offshore Drift 6a+ S0 ** 16
150 Cellar Deck 6a+ S0 ** 21
151 Wreck of the Hesperus 6c S1 ** 6
152 Flotsam 6b+ S1 3
153 Jetsam 6a S1 * 10
154 Aperitif 6a S1 10
  Topology Zawn
156 Beyond Backpacking E1 5b *  
157 Tidal Race E2 5c  
158 Topology
-
7a *** 13
159 Hairy Ball Theorem 7b+ *** 4
160 Moon Pool 7a **  
161 Jackass 6a+  
162 Strangeness
-
6c ** 2
163 Got Any Fish 5c  
164 Whitewash
-
S  
165 Frontispiece
-
S  
  Pitch Perfect Zawn
167 Layback Crack 5c *  
168 Fishing for Compliments 6b  
169 Tidy Tackle Campaign 6a ** 1
170 Fancy Claps
-
7a+ **  
171 Perfect Pitch E2 5c *** 53
172 Life 6a+ **  
  Life Cave Buttress
174 The Enemy of Thought E3 5c ** 2
175 The Technical Trinity E1 5b * 2
176 Be Inspired E2 5b * 2
  Slab Buttress
178 Descent Chimney
-
D  
179 Slab Buttress Traverse
-
S  
180 Stranger in a Strange Land
-
VS 4c  
181 Chocolate Fairy
-
HVS 5a  
182 Rhubarb Groove
-
VD  
183 Bugloss
-
VS 4c  
184 Samphire HVS 5a  

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