Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Matt on Perfect Pitch © PeakDJ

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft. Not a place for slow climbing, unless you've judged the tide very well. The best routes are at the E of the bay, such as Alien World (E3 5c), One-Eyed Man (E4 6a) and Beat Surrender (E5 6b).

Approach notes

Tidal. There are various descents, depending on the part of the bay, so abseils are not essential.

From Lydstep car park (open in summer) take the S exit. Where the path forks, head L.

From Forbidden Head car park, take the path W.

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Rock (2016)
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Skomar Corner: Variation Start E2 5c * 2
2 Cool Man Chu
-
6a+ * 12
3 Planktonitis
-
5c * 20
4 Big Screen
-
4c * 33
5 Way Down
-
3 * 33
6 Reso's Nose
-
5a * 22
7 Cocko
-
5a 6
8 Extras
-
6a+ 3
9 Cold Turkey
-
6a+ ** 9
10 Sex-pack on the Beach
-
5c * 10
11 Offshore Drift
-
6a+ ** 12
12 Cellar Deck
-
6a+ ** 19
13 Wreck of the Hesperus
-
6c ** 6
14 Flotsam
-
6b+ 3
15 Jetsam
-
6a * 10
16 Aperitif
-
6a 10
17 Calm
-
5c * 3
18 Topology
-
7a *** 8
19 Strangeness
-
6c ** 2
20 Fancy Claps
-
7a+  
21 Perfect Pitch
-
6a+ *** 47
22 Life
-
6a+ **  
23 Alien World
-
E3 5c *** 4
24 Tidy Tackle Campaign 6a ** 1
25 Love 6a+ 1
26 Baywatch 6a ** 2
27 Hannah
-
E5 6b *** 2
28 Perfect Axis
-
6c *** 1
29 Eustasy * 7a ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU