Climbs 159
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces SW

Nose To The Wall Trying To Flash A New Route © Sam Marks

Crag features

A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Approach notes

see NE England guide book

April 2016 - Please be aware of potentially serious instability at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" above and to the left of the stone wall below the crag and in the vicinity of "Never So Far". There is a deep rift developing a couple of metres back from the cliff top and it appears that this buttress may be about to peel away.
nocker - 26/Apr/16
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
242f7A+ *3
3Pythagorianismf6A+ *2
5Easy Slab
M 5
6InterloperVD 4
7Holy HolyVD 3
8Wildon's WayS 1
9The noseVS 4c 2
10Frank's Slab
VD 5
11Alan's Slab
HD 4
12Fern grooveE2 5b 1
13Old wedge routeE1 5b 2
14Greasy cornerHS 4b 2
15Heather wallE2 6a 1
16Left oversVD 2
17ScruffS 2
18Dawn crackHS 4b 2
19Evening timeHVS 5b 2
20Trend lightlyVS 5a 2
21Days EndS 4a 2
23Cassininone 5c 1
24BananaS 3
25Gravity grooveS 2
26Slab & MantleS 2
27The rippernone 5a 2
28Shallow cornernone 4c 2
29Obscure ArÍteV2 *4
30Open GrooveV2 *3
31Child In Timenone 5c 2
32Slab mantleshelfVD 4
33Slab grooveVD 4
34Slab FaceD 2
35Slab edgeD 4
37LindaS 1
38SpikeyHS 4b 1
39Long PlayerD 3
40VeeHS 4b 2
41The ThugHVS 5b 1
43FlyingVS 4c 2
44TrapezeHVD 2
45RD'sD 3
46Centre lineVS 5a *4
47Gee BeeVD 4
49Filler InS 4b 1
50Fils follyMS 3
51Third degreeS 3
52Winkers wallVS 4c 2
53CrozzleS 4a *3
54Ramblers pushoverD 5
56Grumpy left-handVD 2
57GrumpyD 2
58Spread eagleVD 6
59Golden EagleHS 2
60Tough EnoughHVS 5a 1
61Flake TraverseVS 5a 2
62The Flake DirectHVS 5b 2
63Stuck In The SkyE7 6c **1
64Swift-TuttleE5 6b **2
65Electric MoonE5 6a *1
66LacunaS *10
67Spawn Of The HuntE2 5c *2
68PerseidsE3 6a **2
69Tranmire crackVD *10
70Tranmire grooveM 9
71UranusHVS 5b *2
72JupiterVS 4c **10
73Jupiter-variation finishVS 4c **4
74MarsHVS 5a *5
75Tranmire WallE8 6c * 
76NeptuneS *3
77PlutoHS 4b *1
78MosqueVS 4c 1
79InsipidityHVS 6a 1
80The Age of ObsessionE4 6b *2
81Plagued by DelusionsE4 6c 1
82HistrionicsE4 6a 2
83Snakes & LaddersVD 2
84WedgesE1 5b 3
85The sequenceE3 6a  
86FocusE2 5c  
87GodivaVD 1
88Oak Tree CrackS  
89Never So FarVS 4b 2
90SkylarkS 1
91Black WallS 1
92SqueezyD 2
93Bunny's ButtressD 2
95MumboD 1
96JumboD 1
98Intake AreteS 1
99Intake WallVD 1
100The Last HeroesHVS 5b *1
101Neolithic FlakeS *1
102Slape SlabD 1
103Bee lineVS 4c 1
104Game Theoryf4+ 1
109The Differentialf7B  
111Stressed Robinf6B  
112Variational Principlef7B  
113Point of Inertiaf7C * 
114Left Prowf5 1
115The Pinchf6B  
116Butch and Sundancef6C  
117Tom Selleckf4 2
118Hot Yoghurtf6C * 
119Canal Streetf5+  
120Carb Gogglesf6A  
121Peaches and Herbf3 1
122Shake Your Groove Thingf5+  
123The Other Placef2 1
124Harry and Lloydf7A * 
125True Bromancef6B 1
126Grey Queenf7A+ 1
127The Brownie Kingf7B  
129Domestic Blissf5+  
130Hanging Slab - Problem 1f5+  
131Hanging Slab - Problem 2f5 1
132Hanging Slab - Problem 3f3 1
134Jack Twistf6B  
135Crafty Butcherf7A *1
136Brad Majorsf6A+ 1
137Chocolate Logf5 *1
138The Scorpian and the Frogf5  
139Han and Chewief6A  
141Best Bitterf6A+ *1
142Lager Than Lifef6A 1
143Bitter Tastef6B * 
144Badger Breathf6B+ * 
145Tower of the Windsf6A  
146The Flowf6B  
147In Timef6B+  
148Half Lifef6A  
149Liquid Clocksf7A * 
150Iron Pendulumf6B  
153Hanging Crackf6A+ * 
154Cyclopsf6C * 
155Rocket Launcherf5+  
156Family Tiesf7B  
157Doc Brownf6C+  
158Bird Watchingf6B *1
159Delorean DMC-12f5+ * 
160Nobody Calls Me 'Chicken'f6B  
161Banana Skinf3  
163Buford 'Mad Dog' Tannenf2 1
164Biff Tannen Jrf3  
165Tannen the Barbarianf3  
166Marty McFlyf5 *1
167Back in Timef6B * 
168Plutoniumf6B * 

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