Climbs 163
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Nose To The Wall Trying To Flash A New Route © Sam Marks

Crag features

A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Approach notes

see NE England guide book

April 2016 - Please be aware of potentially serious instability at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" above and to the left of the stone wall below the crag and in the vicinity of "Never So Far". There is a deep rift developing a couple of metres back from the cliff top and it appears that this buttress may be about to peel away.
nocker - 26/Apr/16
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  NORTH BOULDERS
2 42 f7A+ ** 4
3 Pythagorianism f6A+ * 3
  THE QUARRY
5 Easy Slab
-
M 13
6 Interloper VD 11
7 Holy Holy VD 11
8 Wildon's Way S 6
9 The nose VS 4c 3
10 Frank's Slab
-
VD 11
11 Alan's Slab
-
HD 7
12 Fern groove E2 5b 1
13 Old wedge route E1 5b 3
14 Greasy corner HS 4b 3
15 Heather wall E2 6a 3
16 Left overs VD 4
17 Scruff S 3
18 Dawn crack HS 4b 3
19 Evening time HVS 5b 2
20 Trend lightly VS 5a 3
21 Days End S 4a 2
22 Zornication f7B+ * 1
  STREAMSIDE BUTTRESS
24 Cassini none 5c 2
25 Banana S 11
26 Gravity groove S 6
27 Slab & Mantle S 6
28 The ripper none 5a 4
29 Shallow corner none 4c 6
30 Obscure ArĂȘte V2 5c * 5
31 Open Groove V2 5c * 5
32 Child In Time none 5c 2
33 Slab mantleshelf VD 12
34 Slab groove VD 12
35 Slab Face D 9
36 Slab edge D 8
37 Ricochet f7A 1
  TWIN BUTTRESS
39 Linda S 5
40 Spikey HS 4b 4
41 Long Player D 7
42 Vee HS 4b 7
43 The Thug HVS 5b 3
44 Twin Traverse * f3+ 1
  TRANMIRE PINNACLE
46 Flying VS 4c 2
47 Trapeze HVD 2
48 RD's D 13
49 Centre line VS 5a * 5
50 Gee Bee VD 16
  HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS
52 Filler In S 4b 3
53 Fils folly MS 8
54 Third degree S 7
55 Winkers wall VS 4c 9
56 Crozzle S 4a * 8
57 Ramblers pushover D 9
Climb name Grade
  THE MAIN ROCKS
59 Grumpy left-hand VD 7
60 Grumpy D 8
61 Spread eagle VD 15
62 Golden Eagle HS 9
63 Tough Enough HVS 5a 1
64 Flake Traverse VS 5a 3
65 The Flake Direct HVS 5b 3
66 Stuck In The Sky E5 6c ** 2
67 Swift-Tuttle E5 6b ** 4
68 Electric Moon E4 5c * 4
69 Lacuna S * 19
70 Spawn of the Hunt - Direct Finish E3 6a * 1
71 Spawn Of The Hunt E2 5c * 3
72 Perseids E3 6a ** 3
73 Tranmire crack VD * 21
74 Tranmire groove M 20
75 Uranus HVS 5b * 2
76 Jupiter VS 4c ** 12
77 Jupiter-variation finish VS 4c ** 6
78 Mars HVS 5a * 6
79 Tranmire Wall E8 6c *  
80 Neptune S * 4
81 Pluto HS 4b * 1
82 Mosque VS 4c 1
83 Insipidity HVS 6a 2
84 The Age of Obsession E4 6b * 4
85 Plagued by Delusions E4 6c 1
86 Histrionics E4 6a 3
87 Snakes & Ladders VD 9
88 Wedges E1 5b 4
89 The Sequence E3 6a  
90 Focus E2 5c  
91 Godiva VD 1
92 Oak Tree Crack S  
93 Never So Far VS 4b 4
94 Skylark S 1
95 Black Wall S 2
96 Squeezy D 2
97 Bunny's Buttress D 2
  SOUTH TRANMIRE ROCKS
99 Mumbo D 1
100 Jumbo D 1
  FAR TRANMIRE ROCKS
102 Intake Arete S 1
103 Intake Wall VD 1
104 The Last Heroes HVS 5b * 1
105 Neolithic Flake S * 1
106 Slape Slab D 1
107 Bee line VS 4c 1
108 Game Theory f4+ 2
109 84.21 f7B+  
110 Core f6A  
111 Repdigit f5  
112 Thermodynamics f6B+  
113 The Differential f7B 1
114 Combinatorics f6A  
115 Stressed Robin f6B  
Climb name Grade
116 Variational Principle f7B  
117 Point of Inertia f7C *  
118 Left Prow f5 4
119 The Pinch f6B 3
120 Butch and Sundance f6C 1
121 Tom Selleck f4 3
122 Hot Yoghurt f6C * 1
123 Canal Street f5+ 1
124 Carb Goggles f6A  
125 Peaches and Herb f3 1
126 Shake Your Groove Thing f5+  
127 The Other Place f2 2
128 Harry and Lloyd f7A * 4
129 True Bromance f6B 3
130 Grey Queen f7A+ 2
131 The Brownie King f7B  
132 Hugs f5  
133 Domestic Bliss f5+ 1
134 Hanging Slab - Problem 1 f5+ 1
135 Hanging Slab - Problem 2 f5 3
136 Hanging Slab - Problem 3 f3 3
137 Cocktail f5+ 2
138 Jack Twist f6B 1
139 Crafty Butcher f7A * 1
140 Brad Majors f6A+ 4
141 Chocolate Log f5 * 3
142 The Scorpian and the Frog f5 1
143 Han and Chewie f6A 1
144 Cowboy f5+ 1
145 Best Bitter f6A+ * 3
146 Lager Than Life f6A 2
147 Bitter Taste f6B * 1
148 Badger Breath f6B+ * 1
149 Tower of the Winds f6A  
150 The Flow f6B  
151 In Time f6B+  
152 Half Life f6A  
153 Liquid Clocks f7A * 1
154 Iron Pendulum f6B  
155 Jigawatts f7A  
156 1981 f4+  
157 Hanging Crack f6A+ *  
158 Cyclops f6C *  
159 Rocket Launcher f5+  
160 Family Ties f7B  
161 Doc Brown f6C+ 1
162 Bird Watching f6B * 1
163 Delorean DMC-12 f5+ *  
164 Nobody Calls Me 'Chicken' f6B  
165 Banana Skin f3  
166 Flux f7C  
167 Buford 'Mad Dog' Tannen f2 1
168 Biff Tannen Jr f3  
169 Tannen the Barbarian f3  
170 Marty McFly f5 * 1
171 Back in Time f6B *  
172 Plutonium f6B *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson