Climbs 159
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 330m a.s.l
Faces SW

Nose To The Wall Trying To Flash A New Route © Sam Marks

Crag features

A great crag which you will be guaranteed to have to yourself. The rock is very similar to the Wainstones and many of the lines are equally as good or even better. Seepage can be a problem, so best to visit after a dry spell.

Stakes have now been installed above Heather Wall area & the Main Rocks area with a view to install more soon, they're about 20m from the edge though due to rocky ground. To shunt the hard slab routes at the crag you will need a 40 metre rope, plus a secondary 20 metre rope for the ones on the left. (Only one stake for the whole central bay)

Low grade classics are Lacuna, Tranmire Crack & Jupiter among others. There are some mid-grade climbs dotted about the rocks which don't see much activity but are generally clean. The hardest routes at the crag are on exposed rock and keep in even better nick.

Excellent bouldering to be had at the far left end and streamside area,as well as copious amounts below the crag. A mat can also be used for much of the main crag.

Approach notes

see NE England guide book

April 2016 - Please be aware of potentially serious instability at the right hand end of "The Main Rocks" above and to the left of the stone wall below the crag and in the vicinity of "Never So Far". There is a deep rift developing a couple of metres back from the cliff top and it appears that this buttress may be about to peel away.
nocker - 26/Apr/16
Old routes cleaned & im guessing that theres more to be had at this cracking crag, plenty of stuff for all climbers but there is bracken in some areas which can be annoying!
phleppy - 17/Jun/10
At the moment there is lots of Bracken on the left hand end of the crag (not sure about the rest, as didn't get the chance to check it out). And the top outs on some of the routes were interesting, to say the least!
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  NORTH BOULDERS
2 42 f7A+ * 4
3 Pythagorianism f6A+ * 3
  THE QUARRY
5 Easy Slab
-
M 12
6 Interloper VD 11
7 Holy Holy VD 10
8 Wildon's Way S 6
9 The nose VS 4c 3
10 Frank's Slab
-
VD 11
11 Alan's Slab
-
HD 7
12 Fern groove E2 5b 1
13 Old wedge route E1 5b 3
14 Greasy corner HS 4b 3
15 Heather wall E2 6a 2
16 Left overs VD 4
17 Scruff S 3
18 Dawn crack HS 4b 3
19 Evening time HVS 5b 2
20 Trend lightly VS 5a 3
21 Days End S 4a 2
  STREAMSIDE BUTTRESS
23 Cassini none 5c 1
24 Banana S 10
25 Gravity groove S 5
26 Slab & Mantle S 6
27 The ripper none 5a 4
28 Shallow corner none 4c 5
29 Obscure ArĂȘte V2 5c * 5
30 Open Groove V2 5c * 5
31 Child In Time none 5c 2
32 Slab mantleshelf VD 11
33 Slab groove VD 11
34 Slab Face D 8
35 Slab edge D 7
  TWIN BUTTRESS
37 Linda S 5
38 Spikey HS 4b 4
39 Long Player D 6
40 Vee HS 4b 5
41 The Thug HVS 5b 2
  TRANMIRE PINNACLE
43 Flying VS 4c 2
44 Trapeze HVD 2
45 RD's D 10
46 Centre line VS 5a * 5
47 Gee Bee VD 11
  HOLLY TREE BUTTRESS
49 Filler In S 4b 3
50 Fils folly MS 8
51 Third degree S 6
52 Winkers wall VS 4c 8
53 Crozzle S 4a * 8
54 Ramblers pushover D 8
  THE MAIN ROCKS
56 Grumpy left-hand VD 6
57 Grumpy D 7
58 Spread eagle VD 11
59 Golden Eagle HS 6
60 Tough Enough HVS 5a 1
61 Flake Traverse VS 5a 2
62 The Flake Direct HVS 5b 2
63 Stuck In The Sky E7 6c ** 1
64 Swift-Tuttle E5 6b ** 2
65 Electric Moon E5 6a * 1
66 Lacuna S * 14
67 Spawn Of The Hunt E2 5c * 2
68 Perseids E3 6a ** 2
69 Tranmire crack VD * 15
70 Tranmire groove M 14
71 Uranus HVS 5b * 2
72 Jupiter VS 4c ** 10
73 Jupiter-variation finish VS 4c ** 4
74 Mars HVS 5a * 5
75 Tranmire Wall E8 6c *  
76 Neptune S * 3
77 Pluto HS 4b * 1
78 Mosque VS 4c 1
79 Insipidity HVS 6a 1
80 The Age of Obsession E4 6b * 2
81 Plagued by Delusions E4 6c 1
82 Histrionics E4 6a 2
83 Snakes & Ladders VD 5
84 Wedges E1 5b 3
85 The sequence E3 6a  
86 Focus E2 5c  
87 Godiva VD 1
88 Oak Tree Crack S  
89 Never So Far VS 4b 3
90 Skylark S 1
91 Black Wall S 1
92 Squeezy D 2
93 Bunny's Buttress D 2
  SOUTH TRANMIRE ROCKS
95 Mumbo D 1
96 Jumbo D 1
  FAR TRANMIRE ROCKS
98 Intake Arete S 1
99 Intake Wall VD 1
100 The Last Heroes HVS 5b * 1
101 Neolithic Flake S * 1
102 Slape Slab D 1
103 Bee line VS 4c 1
104 Game Theory f4+ 2
105 84.21 f7B+  
106 Core f6A  
107 Repdigit f5  
108 Thermodynamics f6B+  
109 The Differential f7B 1
110 Combinatorics f6A  
111 Stressed Robin f6B  
112 Variational Principle f7B  
113 Point of Inertia f7C *  
114 Left Prow f5 1
115 The Pinch f6B  
116 Butch and Sundance f6C 1
117 Tom Selleck f4 2
118 Hot Yoghurt f6C *  
119 Canal Street f5+  
120 Carb Goggles f6A  
121 Peaches and Herb f3 1
122 Shake Your Groove Thing f5+  
123 The Other Place f2 1
124 Harry and Lloyd f7A * 1
125 True Bromance f6B 1
126 Grey Queen f7A+ 1
127 The Brownie King f7B  
128 Hugs f5  
129 Domestic Bliss f5+  
130 Hanging Slab - Problem 1 f5+  
131 Hanging Slab - Problem 2 f5 1
132 Hanging Slab - Problem 3 f3 1
133 Cocktail f5+  
134 Jack Twist f6B  
135 Crafty Butcher f7A * 1
136 Brad Majors f6A+ 1
137 Chocolate Log f5 * 1
138 The Scorpian and the Frog f5  
139 Han and Chewie f6A  
140 Cowboy f5+  
141 Best Bitter f6A+ * 1
142 Lager Than Life f6A 1
143 Bitter Taste f6B *  
144 Badger Breath f6B+ *  
145 Tower of the Winds f6A  
146 The Flow f6B  
147 In Time f6B+  
148 Half Life f6A  
149 Liquid Clocks f7A * 1
150 Iron Pendulum f6B  
151 Jigawatts f7A  
152 1981 f4+  
153 Hanging Crack f6A+ *  
154 Cyclops f6C *  
155 Rocket Launcher f5+  
156 Family Ties f7B  
157 Doc Brown f6C+ 1
158 Bird Watching f6B * 1
159 Delorean DMC-12 f5+ *  
160 Nobody Calls Me 'Chicken' f6B  
161 Banana Skin f3  
162 Flux f7C  
163 Buford 'Mad Dog' Tannen f2 1
164 Biff Tannen Jr f3  
165 Tannen the Barbarian f3  
166 Marty McFly f5 * 1
167 Back in Time f6B *  
168 Plutonium f6B *  

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