Climbs 41
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

fagin V5 © bendavies

Crag features

Rarely used but has some good routes up to 220ft, all multi-pitch routes but for one (a 30ft 6a boulder problem). Perhaps best fun for Lockwood's Chimney (Diff) - often done in the dark when drunk.

Approach notes

Best reached from the Cwm Dyli power station - don't park inside the gates. Take the footbridge over the river, to a path which heads up the hillside over a col, when the cliff appears abruptly.

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Top Buttress
2 Peak Frean HVS 5a  
3 Prince of Darkness E3 5b  
4 Enlightenment E2 5b  
5 Kellogg Crack E1 5a * 1
  The Shield
7 Femaelstrom E2 5b * 3
8 Paranoia
-
E1 5a  
9 The Maelstrom
-
HVS 4c 4
10 Side Entry
-
S 1
11 Marble Rib
-
D 4
12 New Slant
-
S 2
13 New Slant (Direct Finish)
-
VS 4b 1
14 Forest Wall
-
S 8
15 The Precipice Walk
-
HS 4b 4
16 Out On a Limb
-
E5 6b  
17 Stampede
-
E5 6b *  
18 Forte Strapiombo
-
HVS 5a 2
19 Wizard E3 5c ** 1
20 Lockwood's Chimney VD *** 633
21 The Tenth Rib
-
VD 2
  North Buttress
23 Gallop Step HVS 5a ** 109
24 The Prowler E5 6a ** 3
25 Anniversary Waltz
-
E2 5c 6
26 The Ox Bow Incident
-
E4 5c 1
  Bustach Boulders
28 The Tawg: In Homage to a Hound E4 6a **  
29 Homage Traverse V6 * 4
30 Nancy V4 * 3
31 Artful Dodger V4 ** 1
32 Pick Pocket V5 ** 1
33 Bill Psyches V6 ** 2
34 Mossquito V3 2
35 Sick Happy V9 *** 4
36 Sick Happy (standing start) V6 * 34
37 Fagin V6 ** 85
38 Bustach Prow
-
V8 ** 22
39 Revenge of the Mossquito V0+ 2
40 The Green Green Moss of Home V1 1
41 Keen as Mosstard V1 1
42 Dashboards and the glad rags V4 * 1
43 Bara Brith *
-
V10 ** 3
44 Oliver Twist * V6 2
45 Rudder's Problem * f7A+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alex Mason