Climbs 16
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces W

arete © jas wood

Crag features

There are ten routes. Most follow the obvious cracks at between severe to VS. There are a couple of harder lines at HVS on a some of the faces. Between oblique crack and chicken run lies a large wall, with potential for a harder route - around E3. Other parts of the crag are also begging for development. The number of recorded climbs could probably be doubled.

Note, 17/08/11: A large loose block has been removed from the top of Extra (VS 4c). Be extremely careful of loose rock, especially near the tops of all climbs.

Approach notes

see North East England guide.

I found the description of how to get to the crag a bit confusing, so thought I would add this:

From the road between Ingleby Greenhow and Battersby, take the road singposted to Bank Foot. Follow this until it forks, at the farm. Park here. Then follow the track through the farm buildings and into the forested area (stile). Follow the track (old Farndale road) up the hillside, winding through the trees. You will eventually get to a gate, where you can see the crag above you. Either find the feint track leading up to it (I couldn't, but there was a lot of bracken) or continue along the track. There is a boulder on the left, just before the track bends to the right. Almost opposite there is a little track up to a lump of rock, which you can then follow back to the crag. Alternatively keep following the old road and it will come back on itself, and you can get to the top of the crag through the heather (which was very easy on the 24th June 2009).

Guidebooks

A lot of loose rock but quite a good crag. Be very careful of loose rock when topping out, I took a big whipper because of a broken hold, and we had to kick down a large loose block.
Jack Graham - 23/Aug/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Battersby Buttress
-
S 11
2 Corner Direct
-
HS 4b 9
3 Batter your face HVS 5b * 4
4 Oblique crack
-
S * 12
5 THE IMPOSIBLE FACE none  
6 Chicken Run VS 4c 8
7 Headline
-
MVS 4b 8
8 Diffman's Dilemma
-
HS 4b 8
9 Jolly roger E2 5c *  
10 Parallel Cracks (Left Hand) VS 5a 2
11 Parrelel Cracks Right-Hand HVS 5b 2
12 Extra
-
VS 4c 5
13 Extras HS 4a 2
14 Mrs Thompson HS 4b 2
15 Turkey Scraps HS 4a 1
16 Diffman's Delight? * D 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson