Climbs 358
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 498m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of the premier climbing areas in the country. Located near New Paltz, NY, the Gunks is about 85 miles from the NYC metropolitan area, making it a popular weekend destination. The rock is quartz conglomerate, solid rock with horizontal rather than vertical cracks. Climbing at the Gunks is characterized by roofs, jugs, traverses, big air, and sometimes "sporty" pro. The Gunks is famous for great one-to-three-pitch climbs of all levels of difficulty. You'll find some of the best easy and moderate trad climbs in the country at the Gunks. There are a few bolted climbs at the Gunks, but no sport climbs.

The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid (don't miss the swimming hole), and winter offers a few climbable days. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Millbrook
  Peterskill
3 Anna's Route
-
5.8  
4 Susie-Q
-
5.6 1
5 Circuit Breaker
-
5.10a 1
6 Popover
-
5.6 1
7 Anna's Route
-
5.8  
8 Limbo
-
VS 4c *  
9 Sound Barrier
-
5.10a  
10 Jumbled Arête
-
5.3  
11 Easy Crack
-
5.3  
12 Quick Eight
-
5.8  
13 Pebble Fingers
-
5.7  
14 Carrot Face
-
5.3  
15 Bunk Arête
-
5.6  
16 Night Owl
-
5.6  
17 PJ Party
-
5.6  
18 The Slumber Party
-
5.4  
19 Sleepwalking
-
5.3  
20 LA Roof
-
5.13a  
21 Acute Corner
-
5.7  
22 Battle of the Bulge
-
5.9  
23 Hard-Boiled
-
5.7  
24 Easy-Over
-
5.3 3
25 Flapjack
-
5.7  
26 Popover
-
5.6 1
27 Short Stacks
-
5.7  
28 Cheese Grits
-
5.6 1
29 Cornflake
-
5.4 1
30 Little Wet Wall
-
5.6  
31 Curcuit Breaker
-
5.10a  
32 Take a Breaker
-
5.4  
33 Left Block
-
5.4  
34 Right Block
-
5.6  
35 Seams Like Fun
-
5.8  
36 Off-Limits
-
5.8  
37 First Day
-
5.7  
38 Broken Pedal
-
5.6  
39 Reach Around 5.8 2
40 Crack-a-lack
-
5.10a  
41 Captain's Log
-
5.4  
42 The Kling-On
-
5.7  
43 The Under-Kling-On
-
5.9  
44 T.P.
-
5.6  
45 Hanky
-
5.8  
46 Genuflect
-
5.6 1
47 A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
-
5.8 1
48 Nutmaster
-
5.8  
49 Dreaming of Anything
-
5.10a  
50 Dreaming of PJ
-
5.8  
51 Arête II
-
5.10a  
52 Cool Hand Luke
-
5.6  
53 The Hustler
-
5.6  
54 Popcorn
-
5.8  
55 Up a Tree
-
5.6  
56 Easy Rider
-
5.6 2
57 Arête I
-
5.9 1
58 Sac's Fifth Avenue 5.11a 1
59 Can he Share?
-
5.8 1
60 Flying Buttman
-
5.8  
61 Crash Dummy Arête
-
5.10a  
62 Looper
-
5.4  
63 Stacked
-
5.4  
64 Exuberance 5.9 1
65 Commencement
-
5.10a  
66 Pencil & Johnny's Arête
-
5.9 1
67 Floops
-
5.10a 2
68 Oops
-
5.10a  
69 Merger's Murder
-
5.9  
70 Cuckoo's Arête
-
5.8 1
71 The Land of the Lost
-
5.11a  
72 1-800-Stick-It Arête
-
5.8  
73 It ain't all it's crack'd up to be
-
5.8  
74 The Yellow Wallpaper
-
5.9 2
75 Psycho Crack Left 5.8  
76 Psycho Crack Right 5.8 *** 1
77 Chopping Block
-
5.11a  
78 Daddy-long-legs
-
5.9  
79 Slant Crack
-
5.8  
80 Headbangers Ball
-
5.7  
81 Cuba Libre
-
5.7  
82 Havana Club
-
5.5  
83 Hump-and-Dump
-
5.6 1
84 Motorcycle Diaries
-
5.10a  
85 Susie-Q
-
5.6  
86 Summer School
-
5.8  
87 Pop Quiz
-
5.8  
88 Dunces Corner
-
5.8  
89 Standardized Testing
-
5.9  
90 Writer's Block
-
5.12b  
91 Detention
-
5.12b  
92 Milil's Magic Arête
-
5.10a  
93 Bronto Platter
-
5.6  
94 Scoop Arête
-
5.8  
95 Scoop Face
-
5.9  
96 Skink
-
5.6 1
97 Stinky Americans
-
5.9  
98 Completely Francois
-
5.10a  
99 Slot Machine
-
5.6 3
100 Fickle Fingers
-
5.10b  
101 Golden Dream
-
5.9 2
102 Barn Dance
-
5.12a  
103 Don't Beat the Dog
-
5.10a  
104 Mya
-
5.10a  
105 Crack of Respendent Delights
-
5.7 ** 1
  Skytop
107 Vandals M ***  
108 Foops! 5.11c *** 2
109 Skytop Vandals 5.13a *** 1
110 Lakeview
-
5.4 *** 1
111 Petie's Rib
-
5.4 *** 1
112 Little Face
-
5.3 *** 1
113 Grey Face
-
5.5 *** 1
114 Mellow Yellow
-
5.10d *** 1
115 Land of Milk and Honey
-
5.11a ** 1
116 Walter's Route
-
5.6 1
117 Pilgrim's progress
-
5.8 *** 1
118 Too steep for my Lichen
-
5.11a ** 1
119 Wipe Out
-
5.10a * 1
120 Open Cockpit
-
5.11c *** 1
121 Sound and Fury
-
5.8 *** 1
  The Near Trapps
123 Roseland
-
5.9 ** 8
124 Birdcage
-
5.10b *** 7
125 Disneyland
-
5.7 ** 8
126 Te Dum
-
5.7 ** 3
Climb name Grade
127 Baskeville Terrace
-
5.7 ** 2
128 Yellow Ridge
-
5.7 *** 12
129 Grand Central
-
5.9 5
130 Criss Cross Direct
-
5.10a 3
131 Fat City Direct
-
5.10d 3
132 Kansas City
-
5.12c 2
133 Transcontinental Nailway
-
5.10c 4
134 Birdland
-
5.8 9
135 Yellow Belly
-
5.8 5
136 Alphonse
-
5.8 4
137 Gelsa
-
5.4 *** 4
138 Yum Yum Yab Yum
-
5.3 * 2
139 Shitface
-
5.10c ** 1
140 Farewell to Arms
-
5.8 ** 5
141 To Be Or Not To Be
-
5.12a *** 2
142 Tulip Mussel Garden
-
5.10d ** 2
143 Easter Time Too 5.8 ** 1
144 Boston Tree Party 5.8 * 1
145 As the Cliff Turns 5.9 ** 1
146 Criss
-
5.11c * 1
147 Good Friday Climb 5.9 * 1
  The Trapps
149 Little Rascals
-
5.9 *  
150 Stupid Crack 5.11c * 1
151 Short and Simple
-
5.3  
152 Birthday Biscuit Boy
-
5.9  
153 The Great Wall of China 5.9  
154 Keyhole 5.7 * 1
155 Katzenjammer
-
5.7 * 1
156 The Brat
-
5.6 * 6
157 Handy Andy
-
5.7 * 3
158 Easy Keyhole
-
5.2 *  
159 Black Fly 5.5 * 5
160 Nice Crack Climb 5.7 * 2
161 Astro Traveller
-
5.10d  
162 Short Job
-
5.4 1
163 69
-
5.3 1
164 Dirty Gerdie 5.9 * 6
165 Red Cabbage Right 5.10b * 2
166 Fancy Idiot
-
5.6 * 2
167 Retribution
-
5.10b *** 16
168 Nosedive
-
5.10b *** 13
169 Double Chin 5.5 ** 7
170 Horseman
-
5.5 *** 40
171 Apoplexy
-
5.9 ** 13
172 Dirty Chimney
-
5.1 3
173 Laurel
-
5.7 ** 24
174 Rhododendron 5.6 ** 27
175 Kens Crack
-
5.7 ** 19
176 CC Route 5.7 * 4
177 Harvard 5.2 * 5
178 Stirrup Trouble
-
5.10b *** 8
179 P 38
-
5.10b ** 3
180 Chockstone Boulder 5.10b ** 1
181 Jackie 5.5 ** 26
182 Classic
-
5.7 ** 11
183 Pink Laurel
-
5.9 ** 3
184 Ape Call 5.8 ** 2
185 RMC
-
5.5 * 4
186 Betty 5.3 ** 9
187 Fetus 5.9 1
188 Baby 5.6 ** 5
189 Easy Overhang (aka Easy O)
-
5.2 * 7
190 Son of Easy O
-
5.8 *** 21
191 Pas de Deux
-
5.8 ** 6
192 City Lights
-
5.7 *** 8
193 Frog's Head
-
5.6 *** 19
194 Maria Direct
-
5.9 * 5
195 Maria Super Direct 5.11a * 2
196 Sundown
-
5.8 * 1
197 Jean 5.9 ** 3
198 Drunkards Delight
-
5.8 *** 9
199 Morning After
-
5.8 ** 2
200 Bloody Mary - Variation
-
5.8 ** 4
201 Bloody Bush 5.6 *** 12
202 Arch 5.6 4c *** 7
203 Ribs
-
5.4 * 4
204 Oscar and charlie 5.7 *** 3
205 Strictly from Nowhere
-
5.7 *** 10
206 Shockley's Ceiling 5.6 *** 28
207 Grim Ace Face
-
5.9 *** 4
208 Nemesis
-
5.10a ** 2
209 Anguish 5.8 * 3
210 Ruby Saturday Direct 5.10a ** 1
211 Three Pines
-
5.3 *** 14
212 The Dangler 5.10a * 6
213 Something Interesting
-
5.7 *** 11
214 Higher Stannard
-
5.9 *** 3
215 Birdy Party
-
5.10b *** 7
216 Interstice
-
5.10d * 3
217 Mothers Day Party
-
5.10b ** 3
218 MF
-
5.9 *** 9
219 MF - Variation 5.10a *** 1
220 Try Again
-
5.10b *** 7
221 Coexistence
-
5.10d *** 9
222 Star Action
-
5.10b ** 3
223 Graveyard Shift 5.10d *** 3
224 Tough Shift
-
5.10a ** 3
225 Overhanging Layback
-
5.7 ** 4
226 Lands End (Direct)
-
5.9 ** 4
227 Fall to Grace
-
5.11c ** 1
228 Welcome to the Gunks 5.10b *** 4
229 Beginner's Delight 5.3 *** 17
230 Snookys Return
-
5.8 *** 11
231 Friends and Lovers
-
5.9 ** 3
232 Minty
-
5.3 *** 7
233 Bags End 5.8 * 1
234 Peregrine
-
5.7 ** 3
235 Madame Grunnebaums Wulst
-
5.6 *** 21
236 Finger Locks or Cedar Box
-
5.5 * 5
237 Raunchy
-
5.8 ** 5
238 Gory Thumb
-
5.9 ** 2
239 Balrog
-
5.10b ** 4
240 Dry Heaves
-
5.8 ** 2
241 Cakewalk
-
5.7 * 9
242 Triangle 5.9 * 3
243 Never Never Land
-
5.10a *** 11
244 Three Doves 5.9 *** 7
245 Annie Oh! 5.8 ** 6
246 Limelight
-
5.7 *** 14
247 Arrow
-
5.8 *** 24
248 Han's Puss 5.7 *** 5
249 The Feast of Fools 5.10b *** 2
250 Protoscope 5.9 * 2
251 Silhouette 5.7 ** 2
252 Traverse of the Clods
-
5.9 ** 3
Climb name Grade
253 Face to Face 5.10b ** 1
254 No Glow 5.9 ** 2
255 Keep on Struttin'
-
5.9 *** 4
256 Erect Direction
-
5.10c *** 6
257 Updraft
-
5.5 * 1
258 Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope
-
5.7 *** 14
259 Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope Direct
-
5.9 *** 3
260 Unholy Wick - Variation
-
5.9 * 2
261 Modern Times 5.8 *** 8
262 High Exposure 5.6 *** 56
263 Directissima
-
5.9 *** 13
264 Enduro Man's Longest Hangout
-
5.11c *** 2
265 Doubleissima
-
5.10b *** 9
266 Lakatakissima 5.10c 1
267 Ants Line
-
5.9 *** 10
268 Bonnies Roof
-
5.9 *** 9
269 Ursula 5.5 *** 7
270 No Man's Land
-
5.11b *** 1
271 The Yellow Wall
-
5.11c *** 6
272 Carbs and Caffeine
-
5.11a *** 3
273 The Sting 5.12a *** 2
274 The Winter
-
5.10d *** 3
275 The Spring
-
5.9 *** 5
276 Kligfield's Follies
-
5.11d *** 1
277 Simple Stuff
-
5.10a *** 3
278 Falled on Account of Strain (Direct Start) 5.10b ** 1
279 Frustration Syndrome
-
5.10c *** 4
280 Out of the Blue
-
5.10c 1
281 VD
-
5.10b 1
282 10,000 Restless Virgins
-
5.10d ** 2
283 Wegetables
-
5.10a ** 2
284 The Boron Destroyer
-
5.10b 2
285 Bunny
-
5.4 ** 14
286 Baby
-
5.6 ** 3
287 Dennis 5.5 * 10
288 Nurse's Aid
-
5.10c *** 1
289 Airy Aria
-
5.8 ** 1
290 Hawk *
-
5.5 *** 1
  Boulder Problems
292 The Lorax *
-
f6A+ ** 1
293 Million Dollar Problem *
-
f6C+ ** 1
294 New Pair of Glasses * f7A+ *** 1
295 Stannard’s Crank *
-
f6A 1
296 Meaning of Life * f6C+ *** 1
297 Boxcar Dyno
-
V3 * 1
  Trapps Bouldering
299 Boulder of Gods
-
V0 *** 1
300 Welcome Boulder
-
V0 * 1
301 Gill Egg
-
V4 *** 2
302 Three Fools
-
V3 ** 1
303 Clune Crank
-
V1 *** 1
304 Keyhole Left
-
V0 1
305 Gill Crack
-
V3 1
306 Susie A
-
V1 2
307 Tweaky Crack
-
V3 1
  Keyhole Cliff Problems
309 The Clune Crank
-
V1 * 1
310 Low Traverse
-
V2 1
311 Gill Pinch Roof
-
V4 *** 1
  Doug's Roof
313 The Dark Bulge
-
V0 1
314 Blasting Hole Problem
-
V1 1
315 Larson's Leap
-
V4 1
  Uberfall Problems
317 Hugh Herr Roof
-
V4 ** 2
  Pebbles Boulders
319 Tweedledum
-
V2 1
320 Goldstone Traverse
-
V4 1
321 Tweaky Crack
-
V3 2
322 Lynn Hill's Traverse V8 *** 1
323 Black Boulder Problem V5 *** 4
324 Dislocator Roof
-
V2 1
  Andrew Area
326 The Buddha
-
V7 1
327 Andrews's Leap
-
V2 2
328 Andrew Boulder Problem
-
V4 3
  Unmoderated
330 LL Roof
-
VB 1
331 Pebbles Arête 5.7 * 1
332 Betty (Uberfall Area)
-
5.3 2
333 Sixish
-
5.4 + 11
334 Boxcar Traverse
-
V4 ** 3
335 The Gill Egg
-
V4 ** 3
336 Gill's Double Clutch
-
V4 *** 1
337 Beatle Brow Bulge 5.10a 2
338 V-3 5.7 * 4
339 Credibility gap
-
5.6 ** 3
340 Wild Horses
-
5.9 ** 3
341 Gill Pinch
-
V4 ** 1
342 Double Crack
-
5.8 ** 4
343 Middle Earth
-
5.5 * 3
344 Boxcar Arête, Sit-start V8 ** 1
345 Moonlight
-
5.6 *** 5
346 Rusty Trifle 5.5 ** 2
347 Belly Roll
-
5.4 *** 7
348 Apoplexy Approach 5.7 2
349 Thin Slabs Direct 5.7 ** 1
350 Northern Pillar
-
5.2 ** 4
351 Yale 5.3 * 2
352 Daydream 5.4 2
353 Lisa 5.9 * 1
354 The Summer 5.11d ** 1
355 In the Groove 5.6 ** 2
356 Crowberry Ridge 5.6 * 3
357 Eyebrow 5.6 2
358 Double Clutch 5.9 ** 1
359 Jiggles 5.2 2
360 Squaggles 5.4 ** 3
361 Trusty Rifle 5.9 ** 2
362 Boston 5.5 * 3
363 Wriggles 5.3 2
364 Clover 5.7 2
365 Sqyiggles 5.4  
366 Junior 5.9 1
367 Galactic Hitchhikers 5.10a * 1
368 Turdland 5.10d * 1
369 Matinee
-
5.10d *** 1
370 Deep Lichen 5.8 1
371 Columbia 5.8 1
372 Walter Mitty 5.8 1
373 Low Exposure 5.10d ** 3
374 Raubenheimer Special
-
5.7 ** 3
375 Easy Verschneidung
-
5.3 2
376 Day Tripper 5.8 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer conorjclarke