Climbs 45
Rocktype Microgranite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Welsh Light - The Snowdon Range from Carreg Hylldrem © Nicholas Livesey

Crag features

The rock type, felsite, gives very steep climbing on odd, smoothish rock: not for slab climbers. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft, including Hardd (E2 5c) and the "out there!!" route of Samurai Groove (E3 5c).

 

According to Boulder Britain: This is the place where Jerry Moffatt started bouldering.

Approach notes

Lies immediately above the A4085 Aberglaslyn to Penrhyndeudraeth road, about 1mi N of Carreg.

Park in roadside bay by a small stream, just north of a little bridge on a sharp bend (1mile) from Garreg, (3miles) from the A498 junction. The crag is visable when approached from Garreg direction.

The bouldering wall is behind the trees above. Skirt the fence on the right, by the track, and wander left to the wall.

BUS

The Snowdon Sherpa 97 bus runs from Porthmadog to Betws, via the road below the crag,

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Big Fin Reef Squid
-
E5 6b 1
2 Troubador
-
E2 5c  
3 King Kong
-
E3 5c * 22
4 King Kong Troubador Connection E3 5c *** 20
5 Compromising Positions
-
E4 6b *  
6 Primus
-
E2 5c * 26
7 Sunset Traverse
-
HVS 5a 3
8 The Burner
-
E2 5b ** 67
9 Burner Direct
-
E5 6a **  
10 Raving Lunatic
-
E5 6b **  
11 Raging Bull
-
E6 6b ** 1
12 Total Bull
-
E4 6a  
13 Flare Up
-
E6 6c * 1
14 Samurai Groove E3 5c *** 67
15 The Hyll Drem Girdle HVS 5a ** 416
16 The Hyll Drem Girdle - Maybelline Finish HVS 5a 4
Climb name Grade
17 Going for Gold
-
E6 6c *** 1
18 Gwyddbwyll
-
E5 6b ** 3
19 The Wildebeest E4 6a ** 22
20 Rain Shadow
-
E5 6b **  
21 Dion
-
E4 6b * 1
22 Hardd E2 5c *** 161
23 Hardd Original
-
E1 5c ** 8
24 Hardd Wildebeest Combination
-
E3 5c ** 10
25 Welsh Water Subversion
-
E5 6b 2
26 Poker
-
E4 5c  
27 The SPook
-
E1 5c 1
28 Biggles
-
HVS 5a  
29 The Warthog Rider E7 6c * 1
30 The Big Six Fun Box
-
E5 6b 3
31 Tarzan
-
E3 5c 1
32 Ryan's Son
-
E4 6b 1
Climb name Grade
33 Bay of Pigs
-
E6 6b * 1
34 The Weirpig E5 6b **  
35 First Blood
-
E4 6a *  
  Boulder wall
37 Central left hand start V4 ** 52
38 The Weirpig start V3 6b 76
39 First Blood start V4 6b 59
40 Bay of Pigs start V4 6b 77
41 Central Righthand Start V4 ** 97
42 Boulder Wall Traverse V4 ** 124
43 Hylldrem Link f7A+ ** 7
44 Boulder Wall Big Link * V8+ * 1
45 Hylldrem Dyno * f6C * 1
46 These foolish clingons * f7A 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Glyn