UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Crumbly rubbish

Faces S

Calum Muskett shaking away the Patagonian cobwebs on Tonight at Noon, Craig Doris (E6 6b) © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

A fine adventurous sea cliff, with some epic and memorable routes. Can be loose and scary!

Access Advice

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 April to 1 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Two sets of seasonal restrictions - both for nesting Choughs. One includes the routes Error of Judgment and Chosskotovich and the other the routes right of and including Noble Savage.

Juine 2018 update - the restrctions have been lifted early for 2018 as the birds do not apperar to ahve nested here, 

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Grandad's Challenge
-
XS hxs  
2 Tonight at Noon
-
E6 6b 9
3 Harmony
-
E7 6b/c  
4 Pysgodyn Aur
-
E5 6a  
5 Gardener's Questing Time
-
HVS 5a 1
6 Chosstokovitch
-
E5 6a  
7 Error of Judgement
-
E1 5a 2
  Stigmata Buttress
9 Crucial Condition
-
E5 5c 1
10 Bobok
-
E5 6a  
11 Destiny E7 6b *** 1
12 Bam, Bam
-
E8 6b 1
13 Requiem for a Vampire E8 6b *** 1
14 The Gross Clinic
-
E6 6a 1
15 Pushing For Rail E8 6b *** 1
16 Melody
-
XS hxs  
17 Rust Never Sleeps
-
E6 6a 2
18 The Zither Player E7 6a *** 1
19 Rockin' in the Free World
-
E5 6a 1
20 Cripple Creek
-
E3 5b *** 45
21 Blood Meridian E6 6a  
22 The Mudshark * E8 6b *** 1
  the craterer slab
24 The Craterer
-
VS 4c 6
25 Full Sail
-
E1 5a 7
Climb name Grade
26 Headwind E1 5a * 1
  upper facet
28 Doris Day
-
E4 6a 4
29 Futterwacken E5 6a  
30 Absent Friends
-
E5 6b 4
  the central slab
32 Hard Tack
-
E1 5b  
33 Dogkind
-
VS  
34 Ticket to Slide
-
E4 5c  
35 Votes For Dogs
-
E1 5a 13
36 Lankee Yankee E3 5b * 1
  byzantium wall
38 Trebizond
-
E5 6b 6
39 Byzantium E4 6a *** 42
40 Samarkand E5 6a 9
  little ug area
42 Luby's Halloween
-
E5 6a  
43 Three Dandy Scuttler's
-
E4 5c 1
44 Corned Dog
-
E3 5c  
45 Little Ug
-
VS  
46 Hung Like a Hampster
-
E5 6a 2
47 Friendless
-
E1 5b 6
48 Carf Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
49 The Faltering Hand
-
HVS 5a 5
Climb name Grade
  The Golden Wall
51 Direct Hit
-
E4 5c 16
52 Wanton Desire
-
E5 6a *** 1
53 The Mermaid Who Shed Her Glove
-
E5 6a 7
54 Honey Dew E5 5c 5
55 Knowing Her E2 5b ** 45
56 Scintillating Stitches
-
HVS 5a 21
57 Facinating Witches
-
HVS 5a *** 21
58 Orange Blossom Special E1 5b  
59 Walk the Line E4 5c  
60 Vroom 23
-
E1 5a 1
61 Vince‚Äôs Finest Pineapple Rings E4 6a  
62 Noble Savage
-
E5 6b 10
63 Laburnum
-
E4 6a  
64 Waburnam
-
E2 5b 1
65 Knowing Me, Knowing You... E4 5c 1
  Jacuzzi Zawn
67 Psycho-bath E3 6a ** 1
68 Ba'ath Party
-
E4 6a  
69 Jacuzzi Dive
-
E2 5c  
  Girdle Traverse
71 War and Peace
-
E5 6a  
72 Direct Hit (with direct finish) E5 6a 2
73 Box of Blood *
-
E7 6b/c ***  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Brown