UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW

The fantastic hand traverse on Creagh Dhu Wall... simply stunning climbing! © Adam Booth

Crag features

Some great classics in the lower grades on perfect rock; tends also to be quiet. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 70m such as the wonderful Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b), The Wasp (E2 5c), Tensor (E2 6a) and Pellegra (E3 6a). (A bit less than 250m above sea level...)

Approach notes

Park in Tremadog town square; or at the intersection of the A4085 and A498, in the short lane leading to a school. Do not block the lane with cars. The crag is a short walk from the lane.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Jude the Obscure
-
VS 4b 3
2 Far From the Madding Crowd
-
E1 5b 3
3 Jess
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Y Dewin Dwl
-
E1 5c  
5 Mursen
-
E1 5b  
6 Rala Rwdins
-
E2 5c 1
7 Rwdlan
-
HVS 5a 4
8 Souvenir
-
HVS 5a 2
9 California Dreaming
-
E1 5c 3
10 Shadow Play
-
HS 4b 1
11 Sourveld
-
E1 5b  
12 Pleasure Cruise
-
HVS 5a 4
13 Gestiana
-
E1 5b 12
14 Jill the Thrill
-
HVS 5a 7
15 Holly Tree Variation
-
E1 5b 3
16 Brass
-
HVS 5a 9
17 Cheap Trick
-
E2 5c 5
18 Carbonara
-
E2 5c 1
19 Helix
-
HVS 5a  
20 Cawod
-
HVS 5a 7
21 Whirlwind
-
HS 4b 1
22 Blas y Cynfyd HVS 5a ** 20
Climb name Grade
23 Rich Packet E1 5b  
24 Ribidires
-
HS 4b  
25 Trick or Treat
-
E2 6a 1
26 Lonely Edge
-
E2 5c 7
27 Corniog
-
VS 4c 1
28 Pert
-
E3 5c 4
29 Pryderi
-
E1 5b 25
30 September Blue
-
E1 5b  
31 Knight on the Tiles
-
E3 5c 1
32 Pwyll
-
E2 5c 13
33 Mimsy
-
VD  
34 Iolyn
-
S 11
35 Pulsar
-
HVS 5a 2
36 Tiercel
-
HS 10
37 Salix
-
HVS 5a * 48
38 Jackdaw on the Edge of Time
-
E1 5b 11
39 One Step in the Crowds E1 5b ** 276
40 Iron in the Soul
-
E3 6b  
41 Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b *** 1194
42 Creagh Dhu Wall Direct VS 4c *** 195
43 Rombold
-
VS 5a 4
44 Bigger Bug
-
E4 6a  
Climb name Grade
45 Sisypus E2 5c 9
46 The Wasp E2 5c *** 190
47 Pellagra
-
E3 6a ** 26
48 Tensor E2 6a ** 145
49 Cruel Tone
-
E3 6c 1
50 Tantalus
-
HVS 5a * 198
51 Titanium Man
-
E4 6a * 12
52 Tarantula
-
HVS 5b 33
53 Tarantula/Tantalus E1 5b ** 30
54 Niobe
-
VS 4c 26
55 Whittington
-
S  
56 Mensor VS 4c ** 231
57 Sorry Sally E1 5b 8
58 Castell High Girdle
-
E2 5c * 3
59 Castell Lower Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 1
60 Tales of Suspense
-
E4 6a *  
61 Multi-Dimensional Array
-
E3 6a  
62 Spinor
-
E4 *  
63 Tenser
-
E5 6c  
64 Tithonus
-
E7 6c  

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