Climbs 64
Rocktype Gabbro
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW

The fantastic hand traverse on Creagh Dhu Wall... simply stunning climbing! © Adam Booth

Crag features

Some great classics in the lower grades on perfect rock; tends also to be quiet. Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 220ft such as the wonderful Creagh Dhu Wall (HS 4b), One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b), The Wasp (E2 5c), Tensor (E2 6a) and Pellegra (E3 6a). (Might be a bit less than 250m above sea level! chrishedgehog)

Approach notes

Park in Tremadog town square; or at the intersection of the A4085 and A498, in the short lane leading to a school. Do not block the lane with cars. The crag is a short walk from the lane.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
The above comments apply only to the old guide. The new one is reliable
harold walmsley - 24/Jun/11
The approach descriptions in the guidebook have been rendered out of date by the construction of a new hospital. The approach now seems to follow a track along the boundary of the hospital nearest to the school, then up the woods and scree to the R. The guidebook descriptions of the approaches to Cheap Trick etc are hopeless as none of the mentioned features are visible.
harold walmsley - 27/Jul/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Jude the Obscure
-
VS 4b 3
2 Far From the Madding Crowd
-
E1 5b 3
3 Jess
-
HVS 5a 1
4 Y Dewin Dwl
-
E1 5c  
5 Mursen
-
E1 5b  
6 Rala Rwdins
-
E2 5c 1
7 Rwdlan
-
HVS 5a 4
8 Souvenir
-
HVS 5a 2
9 California Dreaming
-
E1 5c 3
10 Shadow Play
-
HS 4b 1
11 Sourveld
-
E1 5b  
12 Pleasure Cruise
-
HVS 5a 4
13 Gestiana
-
E1 5b 12
14 Jill the Thrill
-
HVS 5a 7
15 Holly Tree Variation
-
E1 5b 3
16 Brass
-
HVS 5a 9
17 Cheap Trick
-
E2 5c 5
18 Carbonara
-
E2 5c 1
19 Helix
-
HVS 5a  
20 Cawod
-
HVS 5a 7
21 Whirlwind
-
HS 4b 1
22 Blas y Cynfyd HVS 5a ** 24
23 Rich Packet E1 5b  
24 Ribidires
-
HS 4b  
25 Trick or Treat
-
E2 6a 1
26 Lonely Edge
-
E2 5c 7
27 Corniog
-
VS 4c 1
28 Pert
-
E3 5c 4
29 Pryderi
-
E1 5b 24
30 September Blue
-
E1 5b  
31 Knight on the Tiles
-
E3 5c 1
32 Pwyll
-
E2 5c 12
33 Mimsy
-
VD  
34 Iolyn
-
S 13
35 Pulsar
-
HVS 5a 2
36 Tiercel
-
HS 11
37 Salix
-
HVS 5a * 48
38 Jackdaw on the Edge of Time
-
E1 5b 9
39 One Step in the Crowds E1 5b ** 277
40 Iron in the Soul
-
E3 6b  
41 Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b *** 1332
42 Creagh Dhu Wall Direct VS 4c *** 218
43 Rombold
-
VS 5a 4
44 Bigger Bug
-
E4 6a  
45 Sisypus E2 5c 9
46 The Wasp E2 5c *** 180
47 Pellagra
-
E3 6a ** 26
48 Tensor E2 6a ** 137
49 Cruel Tone
-
E3 6c 1
50 Tantalus
-
HVS 5a * 197
51 Titanium Man
-
E4 6a * 11
52 Tarantula
-
HVS 5b 32
53 Tarantula/Tantalus E1 5b ** 29
54 Niobe
-
VS 4c 26
55 Whittington
-
S  
56 Mensor VS 4c ** 252
57 Sorry Sally E1 5b 6
58 Castell High Girdle
-
E2 5c * 3
59 Castell Lower Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 1
60 Tales of Suspense
-
E4 6a *  
61 Multi-Dimensional Array
-
E3 6a  
62 Spinor
-
E4 *  
63 Tenser
-
E5 6c  
64 Tithonus
-
E7 6c  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ianstevens