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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 61
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

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A perfect view of the Llyn Peninsula after hard days climbing © David Maddison

Crag features

The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach  for a number of the routes is to abseil in from the top.

Approach notes

From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.
Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989)
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb - 25/May/11
a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hyder E2 5c  
2 Tyro VD 1
3 Mentor
HVS 5a 2
4 Cadw VS 4c * 10
5 Perilous Journey
E2 4b,5c  
6 Forbidden Flight E4 6b *  
7 The Chateau
VS 4b,4c 38
8 The Castle
VS 4c 26
9 Astonall VS 4c * 9
10 Paradise Lost
VS 1
11 Bramble Buttress VD ** 786
12 The Jewel in the Crown
E1 5b 8
13 Non Stop
E3 6a 2
14 Clutch VS 4c ** 147
15 Plumbline VS 4c ** 92
16 Sheerline
HS 4c * 35
17 Backstairs
VD 1
18 Wow Factor E4 6b *  
19 Caravansoreye MVS 4c * 3
20 Dido's Dilemma E2 5c *  
21 Ace High
E2 5b * 8
Climb name Grade
22 Food for Thought
E2 5c  
23 Assegai
VS 4c 1
24 Javelin HVS 5a * 67
25 Muscles E1 5b ** 5
26 Princess
VS 4b * 75
27 Dryad
28 Acropolis
HS * 26
29 Acropolis Direct finish
VS 4c 2
30 Sphincter VS 12
31 Tachyphouse E1 5b 2
32 Wild Horses
E2 5b * 2
33 Turnterror
HVS 5a  
34 Tumbledown Variation
HVS 5a 1
35 Jumble Tumble
HVS 5a 1
36 Golfball
E1 5b  
37 Klondyke Meic VS 4c 4
38 Foul Touch
VS 4c 4
39 Ek Borge HVS 1
40 Touch Up E1 5b ** 25
41 Avalon
VS 4c 15
42 Touch and Go
VS 4c * 90
Climb name Grade
43 Touche HVS 5a * 6
44 Right Touch
VS 4c 4
45 Soft Touch
E1 5b 25
46 Touched in the Head E1 5a * 9
47 Touchstone
HVS 5a * 7
48 The Kitten E1 5b * 2
49 Overcome VS 4c * 9
50 Puki S 8
51 Hot House
VS 4c 4
52 Brilliant Corners. E1 5b * 2
53 Round Midnight
VS 4c 3
54 Ah Um
E2 5b *  
55 Be Bop
HS 4b 1
56 El Zorro
HS 4b 9
57 Carlwm Corner
58 The Fox
59 Carlwm Arete E3 5c 1
60 Biolet
61 The Fly

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