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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.
We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.
Altitude 200m a.s.l
A perfect view of the Llyn Peninsula after hard days climbing © David Maddison
The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach for a number of the routes is to abseil in from the top.
From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.
Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress
|25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.|
Klimb - 25/May/11
|a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon|
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
|Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.|
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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