Climbs 61
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

A perfect view of the Llyn Peninsula after hard days climbing © David Maddison

Crag features

The most westerly of the Tremadog cliffs Lower parts of buttresses can be very vegetated but the normal approach  for a number of the routes is to abseil in from the top.

Approach notes

From Penmorfa take the old road signposted Yr Hen Lon. After 400 meters turn right into the entrance to Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf farm. Park on left just beyond the cattle grid. Do not park by the gate opposite the cattle grid or drive up to the farmhouse.
Follow the courtesy footpath uphill past the farmhouse and the fields beyond. Follow a path up rightwards through the bracken to reach the large boulder scree at a small walled enclosure. An easy scramble through the scree gets you to the foot of Javelin Buttress

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Tremadog (2010)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
25 May 2011 Met some 2 guys descending from Gesail today - they had parked right next to the actual farm, not on the left, just after the gateway to the farm. Said correct access info was not in their guide.... their dog was also running free & tried to bite my partner, ignoring the owner. Please do be careful guys or we will lose access to more cliffs on private land.
Klimb - 25/May/11
a nice place to climb,bramble buttress v.diff,touch and go vs,javelin hvs 5a,4c the short 5a pitch likes small wires worth a look.enjoy cheers simon
75brynrheidol - 05/Mar/07
Some bouldering below the main crag, especially in the grassy field. The boulders higher up in the scree field look ok from a dsitance but the bracken is full of ankle twisting rocks and the landings are terrible. Not worth a special trip for the bouldering.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1HyderE2 5c  
2TyroVD 1
3Mentor
-
HVS 5a 1
4CadwVS 4c *8
5Perilous Journey
-
E2 4b,5c  
6Forbidden FlightE4 6b * 
7The Chateau
-
VS 4b,4c 30
8The Castle
-
VS 4c 23
9AstonallVS 4c *8
10Paradise Lost
-
VS  
11Bramble ButtressVD **641
12The Jewel in the Crown
-
E1 5b 7
13Non Stop
-
E3 6a 2
14ClutchVS 4c **120
15PlumblineVS 4c **73
16Sheerline
-
HS 4c *33
17Backstairs
-
VD 1
18Wow FactorE4 6b * 
19CaravansoreyeMVS 4c *3
20Dido's DilemmaE2 5c * 
21Ace High
-
E2 5b *6
22Food for Thought
-
E2 5c  
23Assegai
-
VS 4c 1
24JavelinHVS 5a *61
25MusclesE1 5b **5
26Princess
-
VS 4b *65
27Dryad
-
VD  
28Acropolis
-
HS *24
29Acropolis Direct finish
-
VS 4c 1
30SphincterVS 11
31TachyphouseE1 5b 2
32Wild Horses
-
E2 5b *2
33Turnterror
-
HVS 5a  
34Tumbledown Variation
-
HVS 5a 1
35Jumble Tumble
-
HVS 5a 1
36Golfball
-
E1 5b  
37Klondyke MeicVS 4c 5
38Foul Touch
-
VS 4c 4
39Ek BorgeHVS 1
40Touch UpE1 5b **19
41Avalon
-
VS 4c 15
42Touch and Go
-
VS 4c *87
43ToucheHVS 5a *6
44Right Touch
-
VS 4c 4
45Soft Touch
-
E1 5b 18
46Touched in the HeadE1 5a *7
47Touchstone
-
HVS 5a *5
48The KittenE1 5b *1
49OvercomeVS 4c *9
50PukiS 6
51Hot House
-
VS 4c 3
52Brilliant Corners.E1 5b *2
53Round Midnight
-
VS 4c 3
54Ah Um
-
E2 5b * 
55Be Bop
-
HS 4b 1
56El Zorro
-
HS 4b 6
57Carlwm Corner
-
VS  
58The Fox
-
VD  
59Carlwm AreteE3 5c 1
60Biolet
-
S  
61The Fly
-
VD  

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