Climbs 35
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces N

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As nice as 'a hole in the ground' gets - Balmashanner. © Fraser

Crag features

Hard sport climbing area near Forfar. Slow to dry after winter seepage.
Most climbs well protected, short (15m) and enjoyable, although somewhat intense. There is a good bouldering traverse of right wall at 7b+ (french route grade)

Recent infilling and landscaping has basically buried the Left Wall and these routes have ceased to exist.

Thankfully the spectacular and intimidating Right wall has not been affected except for a tree stump that has been dumpbed below the start of Half the Battle. This makes the start awkward but efforts maybe made to shift it in the future.

Must Dos :
Savage Amusement F7b, Shame in Your Game F7c, The Niche F8a+and when dry (rarely) Merchant of Menace 8b

Approach notes

Try not to block any access on approach track.

When using the newly installed steps down to the crag please avoid standing on the wooden retaining boards of each step to prolong their life.

Crag lush with man-eating nettles all the way up to the sky. Steps not evident. Bring a machete or a goat.

For Beta for some of the routes at the crag see this video: cheers, Simie
Simie202 - 03/Sep/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dennis the Menace 6b 3
2 Desperate Dan 6a+ 7
3 99 Flake 4a 16
4 Ice Scream Wall 6b 12
5 The Balmashanner Bomb Shell 6c 1
6 One Can Dan 6b  
7 Mini the Minx 6a 16
8 Rat Race face 6b 2
9 Left Hand Wall Traverse 6a 1
10 Syes Don't Matter 6b 10
11 Sye of Relief 6b+ 15
12 Unnamed 6a+ 26
13 Delivery Man 7a+ 32
Climb name Grade
14 Start the Fire 6b+ ** 135
15 Digital Sclerosis 7b+ * 15
16 Digital Sclerosis - There and Back 7c+ * 1
17 Made to Suffer 7b+ 13
18 Savage Amusement 7b *** 69
19 Putting Shame in your Game 7c * 26
20 Manifestations 7b * 31
21 Rat Attack 6c+ 24
22 Tales of Creation 8a * 14
23 Hell Bent for Lycra 6c+ ** 132
24 Le Bon Vacance 7a 84
25 Half the Battle 7a * 85
26 The Comfort Machine 6c+ * 40
Climb name Grade
27 Off the Couch 6c 29
28 Couch into Gravities 7b * 8
29 The Essential Balmashanner 7c * 17
30 Gravity's Rainbow 8a * 24
31 The Niche 8a+ *** 11
32 Merchant of Menace 8b ** 2
33 Balmashanner Buttress 4c * 12
34 Firestarter 6a+  
35 Chein
6b 2
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
  Main Wall

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