UKC

Climbs 210
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces W

Richard Gage on The Witch, Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. © Russell Lovett

Crag features

2E8, 6 E6,3 E5, 4E4,11 E3, 5 E2,12 E1, 7 HVS, 2 VS

Many of the harder routes are poorly protected.

Single pitch routes.

Approach notes

No right of way, but there hasn't been an access problem. B6349 from Belford, turn right along road to Hazelrigg. Crag is on the eastern side of the road after 1km, down a dip to the left.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Quarry Face
2 Diagonal
-
VD 22
3 The Toppler
-
HVS 5b 14
4 Lichen Groove
-
D 15
5 The Tippler
-
HVS 5b 21
6 Tippler Traverse f6C 3
7 Pedestal Problem f6B+ 3
8 The Bogie
-
S 4a 19
9 Quarry Face
-
S 4a * 67
10 Glass Slipper
-
VS 5a 47
11 Broken Glass
-
E2 6a 7
12 Twisting Crack HS 4c 15
  Merlin Wall
14 Black Triage f8A  
15 County Ethics E7 7a *** 8
16 Merlin Traverse f6A 20
17 Merlin E5 6a *** 11
18 Hard and Low Traverse
-
f7C  
19 Darth
-
f6C 58
20 The Pixies E6 6b *  
21 Little Pixies f7A * 115
22 Little Piggies f7C 2
23 The Emperor
-
f7B 7
24 Morgan E5 6a * 1
25 Morgan (start only) f6B * 98
26 Lady MacBeth
-
f6B 4
27 I Bet He Drinks Carling Black Label E8 6c ** 1
28 MacBeth Low Level Traverse
-
f6C 13
29 Black Mirror
-
E7 6c  
30 The Dark Side E9 7b *** 1
31 Empty The Bones Of You f8A+  
32 Mordreth E6 6b **  
33 Macbeth E6 6b *** 2
34 Paradise Road
-
f7A 2
35 MacDuff
-
f7B 2
36 Easy Up
-
f6B+ 20
37 Sigurd E6 6c ** 1
38 The Arches E1 5b *** 233
39 The Arches (start only) f6A * 3
40 Low and Hard f7B * 145
41 Lower And Harder f7C ** 3
42 Roof and Wall
-
f7A+ 3
43 Cauldron
-
E1 5c 4
44 King Lear E6 6c *  
45 Hard Reign E3 5c ** 18
46 Hard Reign Direct f7B * 58
47 Hard Reign (start only) f6A ** 64
48 Underneath the Arches
-
f6A 12
49 Weird Sisters One f7A 43
50 Weird Sisters Two f7A 60
51 Weird Sisters Three f6C+ 12
52 Holly Tree Corner S 4b * 52
53 Hollybush Crack
-
MS 4a 16
  The Witch/Sorcerer's Cave
55 Pyewackit
-
E4 6a 7
56 The Witch E2 5b *** 203
57 Shackletack E3 6b * 3
58 The Wand E3 5b * 24
59 The Broomstick E3 5b * 17
60 The Enchanter E3 5c ** 42
61 Low Level Traverse
-
f5+ 33
62 Bottle Arete SS
-
f5+ 16
63 Strange Brew
-
E3 5b 5
64 Bottle Crack VS 5a ** 147
65 The Young Warlords
-
f6C *** 21
66 The Wizard E3 5c * 24
67 The Wizard (start only) f5+ 73
68 Black Magic E1 5c * 11
69 Harry Potter f7A+ ** 16
70 Severus Snape f7B+ * 71
71 Movin' On Up
-
f6C 6
72 Merlins Pubes f6B 2
73 Merlin's Beard f6C+ ** 2
74 Pockets Traverse
-
f7C *** 12
75 Intermediate Traverse
-
f6C+ 8
Climb name Grade
76 The Vole Left Hand
-
f6A 31
77 The Vole Left Hand SS
-
f6C 63
78 The Vole
-
E1 5c 13
79 The Vole, Alternative Finish E1 5c * 4
80 The Vole Right Hand
-
f6A ** 93
81 The Vole Right Hand SS f7B+ ** 10
82 Solastalgia f7C+  
83 Sorcerer's Apprentice E1 5c * 41
84 Sorcerer's Apprentice (start only)
-
f5+ 46
85 Sorcerer's Apprentice SS
-
f7A 15
86 The Sorcerer (full route) E1 5c *** 179
87 The Sorcerer E1 5c *** 123
88 The Sorcerer SS
-
f6C 39
89 Pockets Extension
-
f7C+  
90 Under the Spell f7A ** 113
91 The Charm E1 5c * 15
92 The Spell E1 5c * 69
93 Straight Crack HS 4b ** 152
94 Dead Severus * f7C *** 1
  Savage Slab
96 Straight Crack, Alternative Finish
-
E1 5b 3
97 Magic Circle
-
HVS 5a 4
98 Golden Stairs, Direct Start
-
S 4c 60
99 Golden Stairs VD 98
100 Magic Flute E1 5b ** 192
101 Boulder Lands E5 6b * 2
102 Dead on Arrival E6 6a *  
103 Short Wall f6A+ 56
104 Pick Pocket f6B+ 7
105 Savage Slab E7 6c * 1
106 Magic Leap f6A+ 106
107 Bubbles
-
f6C 17
108 Larn Streng f7B+ *** 3
109 Thundering Apoplexy f7B ** 65
110 Peak Technique E6 6b *** 11
111 On the Verge E4 5c ** 63
112 Woodcutters Crack HVD * 98
113 Wood Splitter VD 8
114 Forester's Corner D * 64
115 The Tube, Left-hand Exit
-
E3 5b 13
  The Tube
117 The Tube, Direct Finish
-
E5 5c 8
118 The Tube E4 5c *** 99
119 Uncouth Youth
-
E4 6a * 4
120 Right of Reply E5 6b *** 3
121 Charlotte's Dream Direct E7 6b ** 4
122 Charlotte's Dream
-
E5 6b * 3
123 On the Rocks E7 6c *** 10
124 Off the Rocks
-
E8 6c * 3
125 Duke of York E1 5b ** 87
126 Transcendence E8 6c *** 1
127 Leap of Faith E6 6c *  
128 Lost Cause E4 6b ** 59
129 Angle Corner VD 48
130 Angle Corner, Alternate Finish
-
E3 6b 2
131 Back to Back
-
E5 6b 1
132 Gangway
-
VS 4c * 23
133 Holly Tree Corner (Alt Finish) MS 4b * 3
134 Purgatory E8 7b ***  
  Hazelrigg Wall
136 Scabby Hand
-
E4 5c 1
137 When the Wind Blows E6 6b * 3
138 Peace at Last E5 6a  
139 Outward Bound E3 5c ** 54
140 March Line VD ** 70
141 Wall and Crack S 4b * 149
142 Roof Route, Direct Finish
-
E2 5c 1
143 Roof Route E1 5b *** 47
144 Roof Route Traverse f6B+ 2
145 The Dead Horses Tea Party f6C+ ** 10
146 Door Mats Wall f7C 1
147 Door Mats Wall SS f8A *  
148 Four Mats Wall f7B+ 19
149 Four Mats Wall SS f7B+ * 1
150 Stepped Flake f3 * 58
Climb name Grade
151 Smooth Wall
-
f7A 1
152 Hazelrigg Wall Left-Hand E3 6b * 4
153 Hazelrigg Wall E1 5c * 199
154 Hazelrigg Wall Direct f6A 73
155 Pinup E2 6a 107
156 Risk and Hope
-
E1 6a 39
157 Hazelrigg Wall Traverse
-
f7B 2
158 Original Route VD * 170
159 Original Wall Traverse f5 4b 4
160 Highland Fling E1 5c 6
161 Final Wall VD ** 76
162 Bullet
-
E1 5c 3
  Bat Cave
164 Chiroptera f6A 8
165 Big Aerial Dynamite E5 7a *  
166 Dwarfs Nightmare E2 6b * 4
167 Vespertilion f7B+ ***  
168 Barbastelle f7A 40
169 Brokeback Bowden f7C **  
170 Bechstein
-
f6C 41
171 Brandt
-
f6B+ 26
172 Serotine f6A+ 52
173 Pipistrelle
-
f6B+ 23
174 A Short Sharp Shock
-
E3 6a 1
175 Griffon
-
HVS 5b 10
176 Rays Roof
-
VS 4c 16
177 Footless Fulmar
-
VS 4c * 10
  Boulder 1
179 Sharp Arete f6A+ 45
180 Sharp Arete SS f6C 50
181 The Bitch
-
f8A+ 1
182 Potty Mouth
-
f8B  
183 Undercut Arete
-
f5+ 18
184 Little Arete
-
f6A+ 35
185 Crimp Slab Eliminate f6B+ 10
186 Crimp Slab
-
f6B 65
187 Warm Up Arete
-
f3 120
188 South Wall
-
f6A+ 100
  Boulder 2
190 Mantel Miser
-
f6A+ 62
191 Mantel Misery
-
f6A 56
192 Mantel Underclass f6B 18
193 Mantel Masterclass f6C ** 98
194 Ripples
-
f4 58
195 The Runnel
-
f4 101
196 Slab Eliminate
-
f6A 55
197 Super Slab
-
f4+ 85
198 No Hands
-
f7A 4
  Boulder 3
200 Shallow Groove
-
f3 107
201 The Craic
-
f3 143
202 Smooth Wall One
-
f5 131
203 Smooth Wall Two
-
f5 161
204 Fickle Flakes
-
f4+ 185
205 Other Eliminate f5 50
206 Eliminate f6A+ 161
207 South Arete
-
f6A+ 160
208 Upper Traverse (Boulder 3)
-
f6A 45
209 Low Traverse
-
f6A+ 35
210 Reverse Traverse
-
f6A 19
  Boulder 4
212 B4 Traverse f6C *** 35
213 Springer's Mantel f7B+ * 2
  Boulder 5
215 Overlooked f6A+ 24
  Boulder 6
217 Upper Traverse
-
f6A+ 7
218 Lower Traverse
-
f7A  
  Boulder 7
220 Rawhide/Gate Traverse f7A 2
  Boulder 8
222 Final Traverse
-
f7A+ 1
223 Lip Traverse f5+ 6
224 Final Mantel! * f6B+ 1
225 Not the final traverse * f6C 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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