Climbs 213
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces W

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Richard Gage on The Witch, Back Bowden Doors, Northumberland. © Russell Lovett

Crag features

2E8, 6 E6,3 E5, 4E4,11 E3, 5 E2,12 E1, 7 HVS, 2 VS

Many of the harder routes are poorly protected.

Single pitch routes.

Approach notes

No right of way, but there hasn't been an access problem. B6349 from Belford, turn right along road to Hazelrigg. Crag is on the eastern side of the road after 1km, down a dip to the left.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Quarry Face
2 Diagonal
-
VD 23
3 The Toppler
-
HVS 5b 15
4 Lichen Groove
-
D 16
5 The Tippler
-
HVS 5b 22
6 Tippler Traverse f6C 4
7 Pedestal Problem f6B+ 4
8 The Bogie
-
S 4a 20
9 Quarry Face
-
S 4a * 71
10 Glass Slipper
-
VS 5a 47
11 Broken Glass
-
E2 6a 7
12 Twisting Crack HS 4c 17
  Merlin Wall
14 Black Triage f8A  
15 County Ethics E7 7a *** 12
16 Merlin Traverse f6A 20
17 Merlin E5 6a *** 11
18 Hard and Low Traverse
-
f7C  
19 Darth
-
f6C 63
20 The Pixies E6 6b *  
21 Little Pixies f7A * 140
22 Little Piggies f7C 2
23 The Emperor
-
f7B 7
24 Morgan E5 6a * 1
25 Morgan (start only) f6B * 118
26 Lady MacBeth
-
f6B 4
27 I Bet He Drinks Carling Black Label E8 6c ** 1
28 MacBeth Low Level Traverse
-
f6C 18
29 Black Mirror
-
E7 6c  
30 The Dark Side E9 7b *** 3
31 Empty The Bones Of You f8A+  
32 Mordreth E6 6b **  
33 Macbeth E6 6b *** 2
34 Paradise Road
-
f7A 2
35 MacDuff
-
f7B 2
36 Easy Up
-
f6B+ 27
37 Sigurd E6 6c ** 1
38 The Arches E1 5b *** 255
39 The Arches (start only) f6A * 6
40 Low and Hard f7B * 167
41 Lower And Harder f7C ** 5
42 Roof and Wall
-
f7A+ 3
43 Cauldron
-
E1 5c 4
44 King Lear E6 6c *  
45 Hard Reign E3 5c ** 19
46 Hard Reign Direct f7B * 59
47 Hard Reign (start only) f6A ** 72
48 Underneath the Arches
-
f6A 14
49 Blood Gutters E5 6b ** 1
50 Weird Sisters One f7A 50
51 Weird Sisters Two f7A 73
52 Weird Sisters Three f6C+ 17
53 Holly Tree Corner S 4b * 57
54 Hollybush Crack
-
MS 4a 16
  The Witch/Sorcerer's Cave
56 Pyewackit
-
E4 6a 7
57 The Witch E2 5b *** 215
58 Shackletack E3 6b * 3
59 The Wand E3 5b * 26
60 The Broomstick E3 5b * 18
61 The Enchanter E3 5c ** 45
62 Low Level Traverse
-
f5+ 33
63 Bottle Arete SS
-
f5+ 17
64 Strange Brew
-
E3 5b 5
65 Bottle Crack VS 5a ** 159
66 The Young Warlords
-
f6C *** 25
67 The Wizard E3 5c * 27
68 The Wizard (start only) f5+ 104
69 Black Magic E1 5c * 13
70 Harry Potter f7C ** 17
71 Dead Severus f7C *** 2
72 Severus Snape f7B+ * 81
73 Movin' On Up
-
f6C 9
74 Merlins Pubes f6B 3
75 Merlin's Beard f6C+ ** 2
76 Pockets Traverse
-
f7C *** 14
Climb name Grade
77 Intermediate Traverse
-
f6C+ 9
78 The Vole Left Hand
-
f6A 38
79 The Vole Left Hand SS
-
f6C 75
80 The Vole
-
E1 5c 14
81 The Vole, Alternative Finish E1 5c * 4
82 The Vole Right Hand
-
f6A ** 113
83 The Vole Right Hand SS f7B+ ** 13
84 Solastalgia f7C+  
85 Sorcerer's Apprentice E1 5c * 43
86 Sorcerer's Apprentice (start only)
-
f5+ 59
87 Sorcerer's Apprentice SS
-
f7A 19
88 The Sorcerer (full route) E1 5c *** 196
89 The Sorcerer E1 5c *** 134
90 The Sorcerer SS
-
f6C 48
91 Pockets Extension
-
f7C+  
92 Under the Spell f7A ** 129
93 The Charm E1 5c * 20
94 The Spell E1 5c * 71
95 Straight Crack HS 4b ** 176
  Savage Slab
97 Straight Crack, Alternative Finish
-
E1 5b 3
98 Magic Circle
-
HVS 5a 4
99 Golden Stairs, Direct Start
-
S 4c 66
100 Golden Stairs VD 109
101 Magic Flute E1 5b ** 210
102 Boulder Lands E5 6b * 2
103 Dead on Arrival E6 6a *  
104 Short Wall f6A+ 70
105 Pick Pocket f6B+ 10
106 Savage Slab E7 6c * 1
107 Magic Leap f6A+ 117
108 The Grim Creeper f8A *  
109 Bubbles
-
f6C 21
110 Larn Streng f7B+ *** 4
111 Thundering Apoplexy f7B ** 78
112 Peak Technique E6 6b *** 14
113 On the Verge E4 5c ** 66
114 Woodcutters Crack HVD * 105
115 Wood Splitter VD 9
116 Forester's Corner D * 76
117 The Tube, Left-hand Exit
-
E3 5b 13
  The Tube
119 The Tube, Direct Finish
-
E5 5c 8
120 The Tube E4 5c *** 109
121 Uncouth Youth
-
E4 6a * 4
122 Right of Reply E5 6b *** 3
123 Charlotte's Dream Direct E7 6b ** 5
124 Charlotte's Dream
-
E5 6b * 3
125 On the Rocks E7 6c *** 15
126 Off the Rocks
-
E8 6c * 3
127 Duke of York E1 5b ** 95
128 Transcendence E8 6c *** 1
129 Leap of Faith E6 6c * 1
130 Lost Cause E4 6b ** 64
131 Angle Corner VD 54
132 Angle Corner, Alternate Finish
-
E3 6b 2
133 Back to Back
-
E5 6b 1
134 Gangway
-
VS 4c * 25
135 Holly Tree Corner (Alt Finish) MS 4b * 3
136 Purgatory E8 7b *** 1
  Hazelrigg Wall
138 Scabby Hand
-
E4 5c 1
139 When the Wind Blows E6 6b * 3
140 Peace at Last E5 6a  
141 Outward Bound E3 5c ** 60
142 March Line VD ** 78
143 Wall and Crack S 4b * 165
144 Roof Route, Direct Finish
-
E2 5c 2
145 Roof Route E1 5b *** 49
146 Roof Route Traverse f6B+ 3
147 The Dead Horses Tea Party f6C+ ** 15
148 Door Mats Wall f7C 1
149 Door Mats Wall SS f8A *  
150 Four Mats Wall f7B+ 25
151 Four Mats Wall SS f7B+ * 2
152 Stepped Flake f3 * 65
Climb name Grade
153 Smooth Wall
-
f7A 1
154 Hazelrigg Wall Left-Hand E3 6b * 2
155 Hazelrigg Wall E1 5c * 220
156 Hazelrigg Wall Direct f6A 86
157 Pinup E2 6a 118
158 Risk and Hope
-
E1 6a 45
159 Hazelrigg Wall Traverse
-
f7B 2
160 Original Route VD * 187
161 Original Wall Traverse f5 4b 4
162 Highland Fling E1 5c 10
163 Final Wall VD ** 82
164 Bullet
-
E1 5c 4
  Bat Cave
166 Chiroptera f6A 11
167 Big Aerial Dynamite E5 7a *  
168 Dwarfs Nightmare E2 6b * 4
169 Vespertilion f7B+ ***  
170 Barbastelle f7A 50
171 Brokeback Bowden f7C **  
172 Bechstein
-
f6C 47
173 Brandt
-
f6B+ 31
174 Serotine f6A+ 61
175 Pippistrellotine f6B+ * 1
176 Pipistrelle
-
f6B+ 32
177 A Short Sharp Shock
-
E3 6a 1
178 Griffon
-
HVS 5b 10
179 Rays Roof
-
VS 4c 17
180 Footless Fulmar
-
VS 4c * 10
  Boulder 1
182 Sharp Arete f6A+ 48
183 Sharp Arete SS f6C 51
184 The Bitch
-
f8A+ 2
185 Potty Mouth
-
f8B  
186 Undercut Arete
-
f5+ 22
187 Little Arete
-
f6A+ 41
188 Crimp Slab Eliminate f6B+ 11
189 Crimp Slab
-
f6B 72
190 Warm Up Arete
-
f3 135
191 South Wall
-
f6A+ 111
  Boulder 2
193 Mantel Miser
-
f6A+ 70
194 Mantel Misery
-
f6A 61
195 Mantel Underclass f6B 19
196 Mantel Masterclass f6C ** 104
197 Ripples
-
f4 63
198 The Runnel
-
f4 111
199 Slab Eliminate
-
f6A 58
200 Super Slab
-
f4+ 93
201 No Hands
-
f7A 4
  Boulder 3
203 Shallow Groove
-
f3 129
204 The Craic
-
f3 170
205 Smooth Wall One
-
f5 155
206 Smooth Wall Two
-
f5 186
207 Fickle Flakes
-
f4+ 215
208 Other Eliminate f5 61
209 Eliminate f6A+ 193
210 South Arete
-
f6A+ 187
211 Upper Traverse (Boulder 3)
-
f6A 58
212 Low Traverse
-
f6A+ 40
213 Reverse Traverse
-
f6A 22
  Boulder 4
215 B4 Traverse f6C *** 39
216 Springer's Mantel f7B+ * 2
  Boulder 5
218 Overlooked f6A+ 28
  Boulder 6
220 Upper Traverse
-
f6A+ 8
221 Lower Traverse
-
f7A 1
  Boulder 7
223 Rawhide/Gate Traverse f7A 2
  Boulder 8
225 Final Traverse
-
f7A+ 2
226 Lip Traverse f5+ 6
227 Final Mantel! f6B+ 1
228 Not the final traverse f6C 1

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