Climbs 70
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 75m a.s.l
Faces S

The Flutings VD* at Berryhill © Murph

Crag features

Mostly easy stuff. 2 roof routes at the right hand end, usually top-roped due to biscuity rock and no gear. The gear is generally very good. All single pitch routes, Marcher Lord, VS 5a being the crag classic.

Nice range of easy bouldering on good rock in 3 areas; on small walls before the crag; free-standing boulders; and on the main crag. Definitely worth a trip for the low grade boulderer. 'Knocking on Heavens Door', Font 6b, is a great problem, a light-bulb-esque arete with a teetering finish.

Approach notes

1.5 km north of Etal, farm track to Berryhill. Park in the farm lane. Ask permission at the farm. Go through the farmyard, through two gates at the left-hand end of the buildings. The crag is in the field behind the buildings. Go along the fence to the far end and cross via the wooden bit.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
A lot of cows, some with calfs are currently being kept in the crag field. The farmer wasn't about and we didn't want to push through them or cause issues, so we abandoned and went elsewhere
iamstebarker - 30/Apr/17
Surprised by how many people were there yesterday but as a first time visitor I really enjoyed this place. Some great looking butresses with good routes, some great soloing and even potential for some new lines to be developed!
Gabe Oliver - 06/Oct/14
The residents of the cottages will get very arsy if you park outside their home. One chap won't think twice about moving his shed (Audi A3) to block you in. No doubt he intends on giving you a load of hassle before moving it out the way.
y2keable - 06/Oct/14
Berry Hill is accessed through a working farm. There are only issues here if people are not thoughtful. There are no parking spaces as such you are parking on their lane so be aware that they might need access to machinery and silage etc. that they store here. Please ask at the farm and all will be fine. There are often rooks nesting in the crag but in an area you would not normally climb. They have all sorts of stock in the field, last time I was there there were some highland bullocks so I would be cautious re dogs but that is the case in many Northumberland crags. Ollie Active4seasons
Ollie Jay - 03/Apr/13
Planning on calling by in 2 weeks- anyone know if the access issues (parking and livestock) are sorted?
brynbobaggins - 07/May/12
I told the BMC so they know, they have just lambed and the wee things are all over the place cows are in the crag field at the moment.
jonnie3430 - 27/Feb/12
The rockfax Northern England recommended carpark has "no parking," signs even though there are two carparking spaces, it's still possible to park in front of the wee houses. Something falcon-like is nesting on Marcher Lord, I don't think eggs are present yet but are coming. It had cleared off before we arrived, but we heard it all day and saw it return to the crag after we had finished.
jonnie3430 - 27/Feb/12
April 12, 2007 Asked at the farm, the landlord is running a couple of bulls on the crag field- they haven't bothered people, but may bother a dog if you have one with you (we did, so we pottered off elsewhere for the day, where the dog was far better at getting up the damn rock than me, predicatbly). 4 years ago, not a problem, as the landlord ran sheep on the field at the time. Apparently there is a notice at the field about dogs, but we didn't go and see. Best regards Sarah
Sarah G - 16/Apr/07
worth a visit for marcher lord VS 5a best route for miles !
bongo - 03/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 No O Levels Required E3 5c 2
2 Overhanging Crack VS 4c * 41
3 Much Ado About Nothing E1 5b 13
4 Legal Separation E4 6a 1
5 Western Arête VS 4c ** 183
6 Western Arête Direct
-
VS 5b 11
7 Cheat VD * 54
8 Kinmont Willie VD * 110
9 Jock O the Syde VD * 66
10 Reivers Way D * 84
11 Steep Fluted Wall HVS 4c 10
12 A Pocket Full of Lichenight HVS 5a 1
13 Slab Crack D * 138
14 The Flutings VD ** 260
15 Hi Diddle Diddle VS 4b * 162
16 Marcher Lord VS 5a *** 259
17 This Pedestrian E3 5c * 1
18 Footsloggers VS 4c * 41
19 Potters Way VS 5a * 27
20 Potters Way Variation
-
E3 5c  
21 Slanting Crack HVD 4a * 118
22 Eastern Arête S 4a ** 262
23 Do or Die E4 6a  
24 Faye or Fly
-
E5 6a  
25 Death or Glory E4 5c 2
26 Border Ballad HVS 5b * 61
27 Thrutch S 4a 39
28 Boulder Direct HVS 5a 16
29 Boulder RH VS 5a 42
30 Lunger's Leap
-
E1 5b 11
31 Route One
-
M 17
32 Route Two
-
HVS 5b 24
33 Route Three
-
VS 5a 64
34 Route Four
-
M 18
35 Wall and Fluted Slab S 4a 21
  Warm Up Walls
37 Flight of Fancy
-
f5+ 6
38 Swarm
-
V0 4c 15
39 Dumbo
-
f5 10
40 Warmer Upper
-
f3 21
41 Cracker
-
f3 16
42 Nameless Arete
-
V2 5c 11
43 Nameless Arete SS f6B 1
  Slabby Boulder
45 Toothless Fairy
-
V0+ 5a 12
46 Fatty False Teeth f6A+ 1
47 Munching Molar f6A+  
48 Grim Reaper
-
V0+ 4c 12
49 Lip Service f6A+  
50 La Bouche f6A  
51 Gum Boils f5+  
52 Hair Lip f5+  
53 Hairy Lip
-
f6C  
  Berryhill Boulder
55 Escape from Hell
-
f6A 7
56 The Undertaker
-
f5 7
57 Knocking on Heaven's Door f6A 10
58 Satanic Curses f6C 1
59 Gravedigger f4  
60 Golden Grahams
-
f6C+  
  Overhanging Wall
62 The Berryhill Nibbler
-
V0- 4c 11
63 Bareback Rider
-
V0 4c 10
64 The Furrow f6A+ 5
65 The Furrow Variation
-
f7A+ 5
66 The Courting of Jilly Cooper
-
f6A 5
  Square Faced Arete
68 Thing
-
f4+ 10
69 Lurch
-
f6A 8
70 It
-
f5+ 7
71 Fester f6A+ 4
72 Nameless Slab f6C+ 1
73 Nameless Slab SS f7B 1
74 Mortisha
-
f7A+ 3
75 Puggsley
-
f6A  

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