UKC

Climbs 292
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces W

Ali anticipating the do-or-deck crux of Poseidon Adventure (E4 6a), Bowden Doors, Northumberland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes

From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
The end of the wall above Castle Wall and Wall Crack has been moved back 5m, the remainder of the wall has been trundled down the face so watch for loose rocks at the bottom and dust on holds.
jonnie3430 - 12/Apr/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  THE BOULDERS
2 Ravine Slopers
-
f6B 10
3 Ravine Flake
-
f6A 16
4 Problem 35 f6B 4
5 Born Lippy f8A * 20
6 Trout Pout f8A *  
7 The Hateful Eight f8A+ **  
8 Pulp Friction f7C+ * 1
9 The Fan Left
-
f6A 5
10 The Fan Central
-
f6A 6
11 The Fan Right
-
f6A 7
12 Outer Limits Direct Finish
-
E2 5c 2
13 Outer Limits
-
E2 5c ** 6
14 Childs Play f6B ** 270
15 Playtime
-
f6A 30
16 Offwidth f4 13
17 Parisienne Walkways
-
f6C 6
18 Entrebaillement f6A 100
19 Bottom
-
f6A 15
20 Problem 24 f6A 6
21 Problem 23 f5+ 27
22 Problem 22 (Bottom Area) f4 36
23 Problem 21 f5 22
24 Sandy Scoop
-
f6A 10
25 Alfie Thornton f7C+ 2
26 The Crack SS
-
f8A+ 1
27 The Crack f7C+ ** 24
28 The Whack f6B 1
29 The Lightbulb f6A 301
30 Sheep Pen Traverse
-
f4 75
31 Corner
-
f4 149
32 Blind Seam
-
f5 174
33 Dreaming of Heuco
-
f4 187
34 Paw Prints
-
f3 199
35 Hanging Rib
-
f4 176
36 Sheep Pen Scoop
-
f3 172
37 A Little less than Whence we started f3 4
38 Semantron f7B+ **  
39 The Mantleshelf f7A 104
40 Sandy Rib
-
f5+ 164
41 Scooped Wall f6B *** 312
42 Sandy Arete
-
f4+ 67
43 Scooped Wall LH
-
f4+ 62
44 Scooped Wall RH
-
f5 50
45 Apple Crumble f6A * 2
46 LH Flake
-
f4 113
47 RH Flake
-
f5 88
48 Black Wall
-
f5+ 18
49 Pathside Boulder Traverse
-
f6A 12
  Warm Up Wall
51 Warmed up and Worn Out Circuit
-
f6C 4
52 Warm Up Traverse
-
f6A 31
53 End
-
f5+ 70
54 Wall
-
f5 84
55 The Crescent Flake
-
f6A 62
56 Groove
-
f4 93
57 Short Slab
-
f5 77
58 Evening Wall S 4b 100
  THE SCOOPS
60 Another Heap of it
-
HVS 5c 10
61 Finale Wall
-
E1 5c 10
62 Scoop Three E1 5b 41
63 Liberty
-
E3 6a 1
64 Scoop Two E1 5b * 39
65 Toffs Variation Start
-
E3 6b 3
66 Toffs f6C 12
67 Toffs (full route)
-
E3 6b 2
68 Toff's Jump f7A 22
69 Bourgeoisie f8A+ **  
70 Working Class f7C+ * 5
71 Working Class SS f8B ** 4
72 Second Class f7C 2
73 Poverty (full route)
-
E5 6c * 3
74 Poverty f7A+ * 29
75 Poverty Right-Hand f7B ** 29
76 His Eminence E4 6a ** 75
77 His Eminence (start only) f6B * 142
78 Stu's Variation f7A 20
79 Scoop One E1 5b * 42
80 The Judge E4 6a ** 12
81 The Trial E3 6a *** 105
82 The Jury E3 5c * 13
83 Bloody Crack VS 5a * 26
84 Arete f5 28
85 Bloody Nose HS 5a * 225
86 The Shiner f5 79
  THE WAVE
88 The Skate f5+ 16
89 Flying Fish f6A+ * 65
90 Flying Stag f7B 3
91 The Sting E3 6a ** 17
92 Honeycomb Wall f7C+ * 1
93 Honeycomb wall SS f8A+ ***  
94 Manuka f8A **  
95 Manta LH f7B 71
96 Manta Direct f6C 13
97 Manta RH f6B 123
98 The Manta E3 6a *** 62
99 The Rail f8B+ ***  
100 Vienna f7B+ 45
101 Vienna SS f8A 2
102 Undertow
-
f7C 2
Climb name Grade
103 Rising Damp E4 6b ** 3
104 Inner Space E5 6b ** 1
105 High Tide E5 6a ** 2
106 The Wave E5 6a *** 6
107 Captain Haddock LH f7A * 9
108 Captain Haddock f6C * 57
109 Rough Passage E6 6b *** 3
110 Poseidon Adventure E4 6a *** 46
111 Narcosis
-
E6 6c 1
112 Growlers f8A 1
113 The Bends E4 6b * 6
114 Rip the Lip E6 6a 1
115 Green Crack HVS 5b * 14
  BARBARIAN
117 Atilla f7C  
118 Atilla SS f8A ***  
119 Staggered f7B ** 32
120 Staggered SS f8A ** 1
121 Jimbo's off to Oz f7B+ 1
122 Barbarian E5 6b *** 4
  THE CAVE
124 Underdog Traverse f8A+ 1
125 Sprung f7C * 72
126 Cave LH Problem f6B ** 184
127 Left of Centre f7A+ ** 2
128 Cave Central LH f7A ** 51
129 Cave Central Direct f7A ** 6
130 Cave Central RH f6C+ ** 30
131 V Crimps f7C *** 19
132 Cave RH Problem f6B+ ** 135
133 Cave Traverse f5+ 34
134 See you in Disneyland
-
E3 6a 1
135 Giants Ear VS 5a 50
136 Shoulders of Giants f7C 1
137 Shoulders of Giants Dyno f7A 10
138 Bulls Lug E2 6a 4
139 Robbers Rib VS 5b 13
  Crunche Wall
141 RH Arete
-
f4+ 62
142 Middle Problem
-
f4 100
143 LH Problem
-
f4+ 81
144 Little Boulder Traverse f6A 35
145 Arrow Crack VD 84
146 Billy Liar E2 5c 6
147 Crunchie Traverse f5 123
148 Crunchie Low-Level Traverse f6C 3
149 Crunchie High Traverse f6C 5
150 Crunchie (full route)
-
E2 5c ** 79
151 Crunchie E2 5c 67
152 Temptation (full route)
-
E3 6b * 6
153 Temptation f7A * 27
154 Blind Wall S 4a * 109
155 Hanging Crack E1 5b * 46
156 Cruel Dude
-
E4 5c 1
157 Boomer E4 5c * 2
158 No Surrender
-
E4 6a 1
159 Brothers in Arms
-
E5 6b 1
160 Retreat
-
E1 5b 7
  BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL
162 Wall End VD 112
163 Wall End Direct HS 4c * 101
164 Yellow Peril E2 5c 29
165 The Runnel VS 5a ** 312
166 Banana Wall VS 4c ** 521
167 Banana Wall Traverse f4+ * 2
168 Abanana E1 5c * 131
169 Abanana Wall f5+ * 34
170 Banana Groove HVS 5a 86
171 Black Crack VD 281
172 Red Crack HS 4c 74
173 Leo E2 5b * 18
174 Tiger's Wall HVS 5a *** 644
175 Tigers Wall Circuit
-
f5+ 20
176 The Cheetah E2 5c 11
177 The Rajah E5 6b *** 14
178 The Radgy f7C **  
179 Antihydral f8A *** 1
180 Imagery E4 6b 1
181 Slab Crack E1 5b * 31
182 Finger Bomb f8A+ *  
  LORRAINE
184 Don't Let Go Arete f7C 4
185 Don't Let Go Direct Start
-
E2 6c 4
186 Don't Let Go E2 5c * 36
187 Dont Let Go Variation f5+ 11
188 Lorraine Wall Traverse
-
f6A 23
189 Lorraine VS 5a *** 681
190 Lorraine (start only) f5 *** 57
191 Little Red Rooster E1 5c * 161
192 Runt VS 5a 57
193 Pride Before a Fall
-
VS 5a 28
194 Crescent Wall S 4b * 220
195 Pitchfork
-
E2 5c 9
196 Pitcher Wall HVS 5a * 101
197 Picher Wall Direct
-
E1 5c 24
198 The Keep
-
E1 5b 11
199 The Belford Pie Shop E3 6a 7
200 Castle Crack HVD *** 1160
201 Bella E2 5c 7
202 Sue Direct HVS 5b 83
203 Sue S 4c * 355
204 Flake Wall D 162
Climb name Grade
205 Flake Chimney D 94
  CASTLE WALL + SCORPION
207 Castle Wall S 4b 341
208 Wall Crack VS 4c 78
209 Triple Cracks HS 4c * 315
210 Short Crack VD 80
211 Creepy Crawly f6A+ 10
212 The Harvest Bug f6A+ 27
213 Listen to the Rain E4 5c 5
214 Woolman's Wall VS 5a * 147
215 The Lobster E2 5c 26
216 Crab Wall HS 4b * 378
217 Scorpion VS 4c ** 872
218 Nutcracker HVS 5b 86
219 Brutally Handsome E2 5c 22
220 Nose Chimney D 71
221 Broken Crack
-
E2 5c 11
  LEANING GROOVES
223 Blocked Chimney Corner HS 4c 157
224 Second Leaning Groove VS 5a * 403
225 First Leaning Groove HVS 5a ** 221
226 Street Runner E4 5c * 6
227 The Big Splash Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 6
228 The Big Splash E2 5c * 28
229 Hanging Flake
-
f6A 17
230 Flake Eliminate f7A ** 31
231 Long John S 4c 104
232 Transformer LH f7B+ ** 60
233 Transformer Direct Start f7A ** 158
234 Transformer (full route)
-
E2 5c * 24
235 Transformer f6A+ * 167
236 Transformer RH f6C 35
237 Jackdaw Crack HVS 5b * 38
238 Long Crack HVS 5a ** 181
239 First Century E4 6a * 8
240 Klondyke Wall E2 5c ** 233
241 Klondyke Wall Circuit f5+ 15
242 Canada Crack HVS 5a *** 690
243 Quatra Twinkley E3 6a 2
244 Dog Eat Dog f6C ** 194
245 One Move f7A+ * 12
246 Canada Dry
-
VS 5a 74
247 Whisky Galore f4+ 8
248 Family Pressure
-
E1 5c 63
249 Heaven Can Wait
-
E6 6b 2
  OVERHANGING CRACK
251 Go To Hell f7A+ ** 3
252 Nature's Angry f7B+ ***  
253 Death Knell E6 6b * 3
254 Hangover Wall
-
E5 6b 1
255 The Overhanging Crack E2 5c *** 252
256 Scoop Traverse L-R f7A+ ** 3
257 Scoop Traverse f7A ** 47
258 Russet Groove VD *** 1650
259 Red Nose VS 4c 81
260 Exhibition Crack HS 4c * 596
261 Brown Ale Wall
-
E1 5b 35
262 Guards Exit VD 500
263 Guards Exit Direct f6A 21
264 Pinkie Peeler
-
VS 5a 28
265 Girdle Traverse of the Main Wall
-
VS 4c 23
266 The Corner HVS 5a 88
  MAIN WALL
268 Maginot Line
-
E3 6a 1
269 Crater Maker E4 6a 5
270 Flake Crack S 4b * 524
271 A Grave Mask
-
E4 6a 1
272 Goose Step E3 6a ** 13
273 Kaiser Bill E4 6b * 6
274 Grovel Grove Variation Finish HVS 5a 30
275 Grovel Groove S 4a ** 829
276 Please Stop Me Before I Kill Myself
-
E3 6b 1
277 The Gauleiter E3 6a ** 22
278 The Scoop VS 4c ** 1096
279 Red Wall Traverse f5+ 11
280 Black and Tan Direct
-
E2 6a 38
281 Black and Tan Alternative Finish HVS 5a 91
282 Black and Tan S 4c ** 1098
283 Black and Tan Direct E2 6a 10
284 Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish) f6C 34
285 Y-Front SS
-
f6B 20
286 Y-Front f6A+ * 318
287 Y-Front Direct f7A *** 145
288 Y-Front Arete f7B+ 10
289 X-Fire
-
f6C+ 7
290 Second Staircase D * 485
291 Deception Crack VD * 497
292 Stretcher Wall E1 5c ** 195
293 The Viper E1 6a * 80
294 Hissing Sid E1 5c 23
295 Main Wall Eliminate HVS 5b * 178
296 Main Wall HVS 5b *** 597
297 Handrail Eliminate f5+ 15
298 Handrail Eliminate HVS 5c 63
299 Handrail VS 4c 443
300 Eliminate SS f6A 13
301 Eliminate f5 23
302 Introductory Staircase M * 299
303 Banister Crack
-
VD 125
304 Main Wall Traverse f5 19
305 Main Wall Low Level Traverse f7A 4

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