UKC

Climbs 294
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces W

Ali anticipating the do-or-deck crux of Poseidon Adventure (E4 6a), Bowden Doors, Northumberland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave - really rather eerie. Good views of the coast from the top. Bowden is part of the same outcrop as Back Bowden Doors (about a mile away), and Kyloe Crags (10km north; 15km by road). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes

From the A1, the crag lies to the west. Find Belford (25Km south of Berwick, 15km north of Alnwick) and take the B6349 signed to Wooler, from the centre of the village. After passing a right turn (or fork) after 4km, continue for 200 yards or so until you surmount a small hill and reach a short plateau; park on the grass verge. The crags - not particularly obvious from the road - are through a farm gate on the right, set back 100 yards across a cow-field.

>From the A697, the crag lies to the east. Find Wooler, and take the B6348 signed to Belford. After about 3.5km, the road takes a 90 degree right turn, and after another 300 yards or so, you should take a left turn onto the B6349 signed Belford. Continue for about 6km until you climb a small hill and find the plateau; park on the verge. The crag is to your left. [Simon Smith]

Do not block the gates to the fields as they are in constant use by the farmer.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
The end of the wall above Castle Wall and Wall Crack has been moved back 5m, the remainder of the wall has been trundled down the face so watch for loose rocks at the bottom and dust on holds.
jonnie3430 - 12/Apr/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  THE BOULDERS
2 Ravine Slopers
-
f6B 12
3 Ravine Flake
-
f6A 21
4 Problem 35 f6B 4
5 Born Lippy f7C+ * 29
6 Trout Pout f8A *  
7 The Hateful Eight f8A+ **  
8 Pulp Friction f7C+ * 1
9 The Fan Left
-
f6A 5
10 The Fan Central
-
f6A 6
11 The Fan Right
-
f6A 7
12 Outer Limits Direct Finish
-
E2 5c 2
13 Outer Limits
-
E2 5c ** 6
14 Childs Play f6B ** 296
15 Playtime
-
f6A 32
16 Offwidth f4 14
17 Parisienne Walkways
-
f6C 6
18 Entrebaillement f6A 110
19 Bottom
-
f6A 15
20 Problem 24 f6A 7
21 Problem 23 f5+ 31
22 Problem 22 (Bottom Area) f4 42
23 Problem 21 f5 26
24 Sandy Scoop
-
f6A 12
25 Alfie Thornton f7C+ 2
26 The Crack SS
-
f8A+ 1
27 The Crack f7C ** 31
28 The Whack f6B 1
29 The Lightbulb f6A 336
30 Sheep Pen Traverse
-
f4 80
31 Corner
-
f4 164
32 Blind Seam
-
f5 198
33 Dreaming of Heuco
-
f4 221
34 Paw Prints
-
f3 223
35 Hanging Rib
-
f4 200
36 Sheep Pen Scoop
-
f3 192
37 A Little less than Whence we started f3 6
38 Semantron f7B+ ** 1
39 The Mantleshelf f7A 117
40 Sandy Rib
-
f5+ 195
41 Scooped Wall f6B *** 361
42 Sandy Arete
-
f4+ 77
43 Scooped Wall LH
-
f4+ 72
44 Scooped Wall RH
-
f5 58
45 Apple Crumble f6A * 2
46 LH Flake
-
f4 128
47 RH Flake
-
f5 99
48 Black Wall
-
f5+ 25
49 Pathside Boulder Traverse
-
f6A 13
  Warm Up Wall
51 Warmed up and Worn Out Circuit
-
f6C 4
52 Warm Up Traverse
-
f6A 32
53 End
-
f5+ 78
54 Wall
-
f5 93
55 The Crescent Flake
-
f6A 66
56 Groove
-
f4 102
57 Short Slab
-
f5 86
58 Evening Wall S 4b 106
  THE SCOOPS
60 Another Heap of it
-
HVS 5c 10
61 Finale Wall
-
E1 5c 10
62 Scoop Three E1 5b 42
63 Liberty
-
E3 6a 1
64 Scoop Two E1 5b * 40
65 Toffs Variation Start
-
E3 6b 3
66 Toffs f6C 13
67 Toffs (full route)
-
E3 6b 2
68 Toff's Jump f7A 24
69 Bourgeoisie f8A+ **  
70 Working Class f7C+ * 5
71 Working Class SS f8B ** 4
72 Second Class f7C 2
73 Poverty (full route)
-
E5 6c * 3
74 Poverty f7A+ * 31
75 Poverty Right-Hand f7B ** 34
76 His Eminence E4 6a ** 81
77 His Eminence (start only) f6B * 151
78 Stu's Variation f7A 21
79 Scoop One E1 5b * 43
80 The Judge E4 6a ** 12
81 The Trial E3 6a *** 109
82 The Jury E3 5c * 13
83 Bloody Crack VS 5a * 28
84 Arete f5 30
85 Bloody Nose HS 5a * 241
86 The Shiner f5 85
  THE WAVE
88 The Skate f5+ 16
89 Flying Fish f6A+ * 69
90 Flying Stag f7B 4
91 The Sting E3 6a ** 19
92 Honeycomb Wall f7C+ * 1
93 Honeycomb wall SS f8A+ ***  
94 Manuka f8A **  
95 Manta LH f7B 75
96 Manta Direct f6C 13
97 Manta RH f6B 131
98 The Manta E3 6a *** 65
99 The Rail f8B+ ***  
100 Vienna f7B+ 46
101 Vienna SS f8A 2
102 Undertow
-
f7C 2
103 Rising Damp E4 6b ** 3
Climb name Grade
104 Inner Space E5 6b ** 1
105 High Tide E5 6a ** 2
106 The Wave E5 6a *** 6
107 Captain Haddock LH f7A * 15
108 Captain Haddock f6C * 61
109 Rough Passage E6 6b *** 2
110 Poseidon Adventure E4 6a *** 46
111 Narcosis
-
E6 6c 1
112 Growlers f8A 1
113 The Bends E4 6b * 6
114 Rip the Lip E6 6a 1
115 Green Crack HVS 5b * 15
  BARBARIAN
117 Atilla f7C  
118 Atilla SS f8A ***  
119 Staggered f7B ** 33
120 Staggered SS f8A ** 1
121 Jimbo's off to Oz f7B+ 1
122 Barbarian E5 6b *** 4
  THE CAVE
124 Underdog Traverse f8A+ 1
125 Sprung f7C * 80
126 Cave LH Problem f6B ** 207
127 Left of Centre f7A+ ** 4
128 Cave Central LH f7A ** 62
129 Cave Central Direct f7A ** 7
130 Cave Central RH f6C+ ** 32
131 V Crimps f7C *** 19
132 V Crimps Direct f8A 1
133 Cave RH Problem f6B+ ** 146
134 Cave Traverse f5+ 37
135 See you in Disneyland
-
E3 6a 1
136 Giants Ear VS 5a 51
137 Shoulders of Giants f7C 1
138 Shoulders of Giants Dyno f7A 10
139 Bulls Lug E2 6a 4
140 Robbers Rib VS 5b 13
  Crunche Wall
142 RH Arete
-
f4+ 66
143 Middle Problem
-
f4 107
144 LH Problem
-
f4+ 89
145 Little Boulder Traverse f6A 38
146 Arrow Crack VD 89
147 Billy Liar E2 5c 6
148 Crunchie Traverse f5 134
149 Crunchie Low-Level Traverse f6C 5
150 Crunchie High Traverse f6C 5
151 Crunchie (full route)
-
E2 5c ** 80
152 Crunchie E2 5c 73
153 Temptation (full route)
-
E3 6b * 6
154 Temptation f7A * 28
155 Blind Wall S 4a * 115
156 Hanging Crack E1 5b * 45
157 Cruel Dude
-
E4 5c 1
158 Boomer E4 5c * 2
159 No Surrender
-
E4 6a 1
160 Brothers in Arms
-
E5 6b 1
161 Retreat
-
E1 5b 7
  BANANA WALL + TIGER WALL
163 Wall End VD 120
164 Wall End Direct HS 4c * 111
165 Yellow Peril E2 5c 29
166 The Runnel VS 5a ** 329
167 Banana Wall VS 4c ** 547
168 Banana Wall Traverse f4+ * 2
169 Abanana E1 5c * 138
170 Abanana Wall f5+ * 36
171 Banana Groove HVS 5a 90
172 Black Crack VD 298
173 Red Crack HS 4c 77
174 Leo E2 5b * 21
175 Tiger's Wall HVS 5a *** 690
176 Tigers Wall Circuit
-
f5+ 20
177 The Cheetah E2 5c 11
178 The Rajah E5 6b *** 14
179 The Radgy f7C **  
180 Antihydral f8A *** 1
181 Imagery E4 6b 1
182 Slab Crack E1 5b * 33
183 Finger Bomb f8A+ *  
  LORRAINE
185 Don't Let Go Arete f7C 4
186 Don't Let Go Direct Start
-
E2 6c 4
187 Don't Let Go E2 5c * 38
188 Dont Let Go Variation f5+ 11
189 Lorraine Wall Traverse
-
f6A 23
190 Lorraine VS 5a *** 724
191 Lorraine (start only) f5 *** 60
192 Little Red Rooster E1 5c * 168
193 Runt VS 5a 61
194 Pride Before a Fall
-
VS 5a 30
195 Crescent Wall S 4b * 239
196 Pitchfork
-
E2 5c 9
197 Pitcher Wall HVS 5a * 113
198 Picher Wall Direct
-
E1 5c 25
199 Pitcher Wall Direct (Boulder) f5+ 1
200 The Keep
-
E1 5b 11
201 The Belford Pie Shop E3 6a 7
202 Castle Crack HVD *** 1242
203 Bella E2 5c 7
204 Sue Direct HVS 5b 96
205 Sue S 4c * 389
206 Flake Wall D 168
Climb name Grade
207 Flake Chimney D 98
  CASTLE WALL + SCORPION
209 Castle Wall S 4b 360
210 Wall Crack VS 4c 85
211 Triple Cracks HS 4c * 332
212 Short Crack VD 85
213 Creepy Crawly f6A+ 11
214 The Harvest Bug f6A+ 28
215 Listen to the Rain E4 5c 5
216 Woolman's Wall VS 5a * 152
217 The Lobster E2 5c 26
218 Crab Wall HS 4b * 400
219 Scorpion VS 4c ** 934
220 Nutcracker HVS 5b 90
221 Brutally Handsome E2 5c 25
222 Nose Chimney D 75
223 Broken Crack
-
E2 5c 11
  LEANING GROOVES
225 Blocked Chimney Corner HS 4c 164
226 Second Leaning Groove VS 5a * 431
227 First Leaning Groove HVS 5a ** 227
228 Street Runner E4 5c * 6
229 The Big Splash Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 6
230 The Big Splash E2 5c * 31
231 Hanging Flake
-
f6A 17
232 Flake Eliminate f7A ** 39
233 Long John S 4c 113
234 Transformer LH f7B+ ** 65
235 Transformer Direct Start f7A ** 164
236 Transformer (full route)
-
E2 5c * 25
237 Transformer f6A+ * 181
238 Transformer RH f6C 34
239 Jackdaw Crack HVS 5b * 40
240 Long Crack HVS 5a ** 193
241 First Century E4 6a * 8
242 Klondyke Wall E2 5c ** 241
243 Klondyke Wall Circuit f5+ 15
244 Canada Crack HVS 5a *** 739
245 Quatra Twinkley E3 6a 3
246 Dog Eat Dog f6C ** 206
247 One Move f7A+ * 13
248 Canada Dry
-
VS 5a 79
249 Whisky Galore f4+ 8
250 Family Pressure
-
E1 5c 66
251 Heaven Can Wait
-
E6 6b 2
  OVERHANGING CRACK
253 Go To Hell f7A+ ** 3
254 Nature's Angry f7B+ ***  
255 Death Knell E6 6b * 3
256 Hangover Wall
-
E5 6b 1
257 The Overhanging Crack E2 5c *** 270
258 Scoop Traverse L-R f7A+ ** 3
259 Scoop Traverse f7A ** 49
260 Russet Groove VD *** 1756
261 Red Nose VS 4c 84
262 Exhibition Crack HS 4c * 633
263 Brown Ale Wall
-
E1 5b 36
264 Guards Exit VD 524
265 Guards Exit Direct f6A 22
266 Pinkie Peeler
-
VS 5a 30
267 Girdle Traverse of the Main Wall
-
VS 4c 23
268 The Corner HVS 5a 90
  MAIN WALL
270 Maginot Line
-
E3 6a 1
271 Crater Maker E4 6a 5
272 Flake Crack S 4b * 563
273 A Grave Mask
-
E4 6a 1
274 Goose Step E3 6a ** 14
275 Kaiser Bill E4 6b * 7
276 Grovel Grove Variation Finish HVS 5a 30
277 Grovel Groove S 4a ** 899
278 Please Stop Me Before I Kill Myself
-
E3 6b 1
279 The Gauleiter E3 6a ** 22
280 The Scoop VS 4c ** 1179
281 Red Wall Traverse f5+ 12
282 Black and Tan Direct
-
E2 6a 39
283 Black and Tan Alternative Finish HVS 5a 102
284 Black and Tan S 4c ** 1183
285 Black and Tan Direct E2 6a 10
286 Jock Strap (Y-Front LH Finish) f6C 35
287 Y-Front SS
-
f6B 20
288 Y-Front f6A+ * 340
289 Y-Front Direct f7A *** 157
290 Y-Front Arete f7B+ 10
291 X-Fire
-
f6C+ 7
292 Second Staircase D * 513
293 Deception Crack VD * 538
294 Stretcher Wall E1 5c ** 208
295 The Viper E1 6a * 88
296 Hissing Sid E1 5c 25
297 Main Wall Eliminate HVS 5b * 189
298 Main Wall HVS 5b *** 639
299 Handrail Eliminate f5+ 16
300 Handrail Eliminate HVS 5c 63
301 Handrail VS 4c 482
302 Eliminate SS f6A 15
303 Eliminate f5 24
304 Introductory Staircase M * 327
305 Banister Crack
-
VD 135
306 Main Wall Traverse f5 22
307 Main Wall Low Level Traverse f7A 4

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