Climbs 50
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 231m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Nik Goile on Ladyboy's Cage (6a) at Gelli © Stuart Llewellyn

Crag features

Above the town of Gelli is a long quarried crag on the upper level of a series of bays. This provides lots of pitches in the 5th and 6th grades. The outlook is excellent and the base of the crag clean and pleasant, although the start of the approach is a bit unpleasant, being up a dirty track next to some dilapidated sheds and stables. The routes are well bolted, clean and the rock is reasonable - a good spot on a summer afternoon, or a day combined with Ton Pentre.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
sorry should be hoarse breather not trader so be careful when u get to top
Sylwiiia - 08/Jul/18
nice crag with good routes. unfortunately lot of loose rock, it doesn't look like it gets much traffic. belay on hoarse trader is broken
Sylwiiia - 08/Jul/18
Best crag in Gelli !
sharpie - 04/Jun/15
The wiki (and consequently the topos) were incorrect. The wiki house now been amended.
goi.ashmore - 15/Sep/14
Surprisingly not a bad crag for the valleys. The short steep walk seems to keep the scallies away. Worth a visit if you're local and have been to the other decent venues. Good for 6a/6b climbers, lots for you to go at and the routes are generally straight forward to onsight. There seems to be two routes called Hoarse Trader, both on the SWMC wiki and the topos. One's a 5+ and ones a 4+.
mattrm - 11/Sep/14
Referring to my SWMC printout, did Hoarse Trader 5+ today. Bolt line just R of Talking Shop, on Gelli Right. Tried to log it just now, but the only climb on UKC of that name is a 4+ over on Gelli Left. The SWMC lists both, using the same name. Not sure what's going on. I've entered the route I climbed today as "Climb R of Talking Shop".
bpmclimb - 01/Sep/14
Good climbing with excellent views over the valley. Shaded from the midday sun. Showered belayer with rocks from Stubborn as a mule which appears to be falling apart. Sorry to have missed the sultry goats and well hung donkeys described in the guide!
richard_hopkins - 26/Aug/13
Brilliant place with all the new bolts,sunny,great views lots of easier route,some harder and even some trad.Bin there a lorra thymes recntly even found bananas and the island of lesbos.Rote names nearly as good as the routs
freelunchprovider - 07/Jun/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 Jockey Club 6a 14
3 Horses Bolted 6b * 11
4 Fools on Horses 6a+ * 21
5 Free Lunch 6c 5
6 Stable Boy's Breakfast 6b * 4
7 Green ArĂȘte HS * 14
8 KES VS * 8
9 Kestrel for a Knave 4a 20
10 Joey's Full Pint S 6
11 Mr Farthing S 2
12 Miss Halfpenny 4a 15
13 Feeling Lucky 6a * 8
14 What No Metal E1 6
15 Little Treasure 6a+ 4
16 Toil HVS 4
17 My Little Pony's on the Job 5c * 45
18 Galvinised 6a+ ** 45
Climb name Grade
19 Long Forgotten 6b+ * 27
20 Hoarse Trader 4c 47
21 Marinated Goat Cheese 4a 45
22 Squeezing the Curd 5a 29
23 The Babcock Test 6b 9
24 Titanium Man E1 6
25 Cigarillo 6b * 25
26 Tobacco King 6c+ * 4
27 Down Under 4c * 79
  Recessed Wall
29 Working to a Budget 4c 18
30 Hung Like a Donkey 6a 15
31 All Talk 6a+ 9
32 Talking Hoarse 5c 23
33 Little Taff 6a+ * 14
34 Stubborn as a Mule 5a 30
35 Hoarse Whisperer 6b * 14
36 A Little Something I Prepared Earlier 6b ** 19
Climb name Grade
37 Something That Came Up Much Later 4a 33
38 Unearthed HS 7
39 Ladyboy's Cage 6a 32
40 Worzel Budgie Spunker 6b+ * 10
41 Talking Shop 6a 9
42 Snorting Horse E1 2
43 Hoarse Breather 5c 6
44 Worzel Cloaca Sniffer 6a+ * 13
45 Empty Talk 6a * 21
46 Gilding the Lily 6a * 13
47 Polishing the Turd 5a 12
48 Ice Station Gelli 6a+ * 9
49 One in Her Eye 6b+ * 8
50 Send in the Specials 6a+ 6
51 Hole in One 5c 4
52 Donkey Work 6a+ 2

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