Above the town of Gelli is a long quarried crag on the upper level of a series of bays. This provides lots of pitches in the 5th and 6th grades. The outlook is excellent and the base of the crag clean and pleasant, although the start of the approach is a bit unpleasant, being up a dirty track next to some dilapidated sheds and stables. The routes are well bolted, clean and the rock is reasonable - a good spot on a summer afternoon, or a day combined with Ton Pentre.
South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
The wiki (and consequently the topos) were incorrect. The wiki house now been amended. goi.ashmore - 15/Sep/14
Surprisingly not a bad crag for the valleys. The short steep walk seems to keep the scallies away. Worth a visit if you're local and have been to the other decent venues. Good for 6a/6b climbers, lots for you to go at and the routes are generally straight forward to onsight.
There seems to be two routes called Hoarse Trader, both on the SWMC wiki and the topos. One's a 5+ and ones a 4+. mattrm - 11/Sep/14
Referring to my SWMC printout, did Hoarse Trader 5+ today. Bolt line just R of Talking Shop, on Gelli Right. Tried to log it just now, but the only climb on UKC of that name is a 4+ over on Gelli Left. The SWMC lists both, using the same name. Not sure what's going on. I've entered the route I climbed today as "Climb R of Talking Shop". bpmclimb - 01/Sep/14
Good climbing with excellent views over the valley. Shaded from the midday sun. Showered belayer with rocks from Stubborn as a mule which appears to be falling apart. Sorry to have missed the sultry goats and well hung donkeys described in the guide! richard_hopkins - 26/Aug/13
Brilliant place with all the new bolts,sunny,great views lots of easier route,some harder and even some trad.Bin there a lorra thymes recntly even found bananas and the island of lesbos.Rote names nearly as good as the routs freelunchprovider - 07/Jun/13