Climbs 132
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 323m a.s.l
Faces SW

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The loneliness of long distance boulderers... © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

A very bold sort of crag. The routes tend to be hard, but short. Home of the VS 6a (and the 6a bit is a sandbag)

Single pitch routes.

Rock becomes brittle after rain and should not be climbed on. Allow 2 days of dry weather before climbing here.

"Its not chalk they'll need but bog roll"

Approach notes

B6320 into Bellingham, turn right and follow the West Woodburn sign for 1km. Take the road marked 'Blakelaw" to the farm. Follow the Pennine Way north to a small copse at tje top of the hill. The crag can be seen from here, on the right.

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Beautiful spot, lovely technical climbing but VS (or font 5) climbers could definitely get themselves in bother at this crag; and it's a long hobble back to the car!
Climbster - 02/Apr/13
The train from Newcastle to Hexham takes about 45 to 55 minutes and the bus from Hexham to Billingham about 35 to 40 minutes for anyone interested. Would definatly recommend taking boots for the approach and as many boulder mats as possible. Some of the climbs have been graded as boulder problems, you probably don't want to be falling from them though. The climbing that I did was good quality as was the dry rock but I don't see that being a problem later in the year. Great setting, lovely view.
Emilio Bachini - 02/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Play Pen
2 On the Mark
-
f7A+ *** 15
3 Bracken Black
-
f6C 11
4 Black Rib f7A 1
5 Pinch Punch
-
f5+ 7
6 Colour Bruise
-
f5+ 8
7 Pick your Pleasure
-
f5 6
8 Smile
-
f7C+ 2
9 Cloud 9
-
f5+ ** 12
10 Cloud 9 SS
-
f7B ** 11
11 Love Handles
-
f6B 4
  Air Bloc
13 Air
-
f7A+ ** 21
14 Postal Service
-
f6B 14
15 Bullit Time
-
f7B 2
  The Black Pig
17 Little Piggy
-
f4+ 16
18 Thin Crack
-
f5 19
19 AC
-
f5+ 9
20 Peg Leg
-
f5+ 10
21 Iron Pirate
-
f5+ 11
  Left-hand Buttresses
23 Flake Wall
-
VS 4c * 9
24 The Felter's Teapot
-
VS 4c 5
25 Chockstone Crack
-
MVS 4b 1
26 Bait Cabin Wall
-
f4 10
27 Time and Punsishment
-
f8A  
28 Snap Crackle and Pop
-
f5+ 2
29 Pinched
-
HVS 5b 1
30 Thunderclap
-
VS 5a 5
31 Pincher Wall
-
VS 4c 7
32 Twin Cracks
-
MVS 4c 6
33 Arkle E1 5a 2
34 Side Walk HVS 5a 3
35 Handrail f5 8
36 Boulevard E3 6b * 19
37 Curbside E3 6a * 18
38 Footpath E2 5c * 47
39 Paving E1 5b 34
40 Ta Mac
-
f5+ * 5
41 The Eyes of Silence
-
f7C+ *** 7
42 Blocked Chimney
-
D 6
43 The Mall
-
HVS 5a 2
44 Knock Yer Block Off
-
f7C  
45 Quarrel Arete E2 5c * 19
46 Tom's Peeping E1 5b ** 36
47 Monocle E2 5c * 26
Climb name Grade
48 Coppers Nark HVS 5b * 9
49 Crouching the Mahogany E5 6b ** 10
50 Weeping Fingers E2 5c ** 47
51 The Storyteller E5 6b 1
52 Task Master HVS 5b ** 33
53 The Whip E1 5b * 5
54 The Stool Pigeon f7A ** 1
  Central Buttress
56 Border Craic & Deeks Aboot
-
f6C  
57 Looking Good Feeling Great
-
f7B+  
58 Ming Vase
-
f6B 4
  Central Buttress Pinnacle
60 Gully Wall
-
HVS 5b  
61 Dolcis Arete E4 6a *  
62 Rain Drops E2 5b * 5
63 Shadow Players E4 5c * 3
64 Pot-Hole Wall Direct Start
-
E3 5a 2
65 Pot-Hole Wall E5 6a * 2
66 Pot-Hole Wall Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 1
67 Shoe Horn HVS 5a * 5
68 Tossin a Wobbler E3 5c * 4
69 Callerhues Crack HVS 5a *** 63
70 Twin Hats E3 5c *  
71 Ned Kelly E3 5c *** 7
72 Second Born E6 6c ***  
73 Callerhues Chimney HVS 4c * 5
74 Rice Krispies E4 5c * 7
75 Toshiba Receiver E4 5c ** 7
  Right-hand Buttresses
77 Pilot's License
-
E1 5b  
78 Air Time
-
E1 5b  
79 Cold Start E3 6b  
80 Green Fluff E4 6b * 3
81 Dulalai T.A.P E5 6b *  
82 Sheer Temptation E6 6b ** 3
83 The Mongrel E4 6a *  
84 Flake Corner HS 4b * 6
85 Polo VD 7
86 Micro E3 5c  
87 Tom E1 5b * 1
88 Dick HVS 5a * 2
89 Harry E1 5b * 5
90 Hanging Crack E2 5c * 2
91 Chouca E4 6b *  
92 Bracken Crack E1 5b  
93 Cut and Dried E2 5b * 5
94 White Rock E2 5b * 1
Climb name Grade
95 The Lurcher E3 5c * 6
96 Country Downfall
-
D 2
97 The Hyena E2 5c * 4
98 New Kids on the Rock E5 6b * 1
99 Scar Tissue f7C+  
100 The Thoroughbred E5 6b ***  
101 Horse Play E4 6a *  
  Right-hand Boulders
103 H8
-
f6A 17
104 H8 Sit Start f6A+  
105 Binary Choice
-
f6A  
106 Softly Softly
-
f7A 25
107 The Soft Touch
-
f7C 1
108 Dramamine
-
f5+ 11
109 In the Clouds
-
f5 13
110 Coming Down
-
f5+ 9
111 Groove is in the Heart
-
f6A 12
112 Reid Link
-
f6A 11
113 Spring Healer
-
f6B 5
114 Tonic
-
f6A 7
115 Microbo
-
f5+ 1
116 Blue Calx
-
f6A * 2
117 Petit Mais Bon Bon
-
f6A+ * 3
118 Ascendance of Decadence
-
f5+ 12
119 Retrospective Phonomenation
-
f5+ 7
120 Dot to Dot
-
f5+ 7
121 Fone Call f6B ** 3
122 Pocket Picking f6C ** 7
123 Happy Slapping SS
-
f7A 8
124 Happy Slapping f6A 7
125 Happy Slapping RH
-
f6C 1
126 Surfing on a Rock
-
f5+ 8
127 Tanned Gents
-
f5 6
128 Crush n Burn
-
f5+ 5
129 Pasty Face
-
f5 6
130 O Zone
-
f5+ 8
131 Factor 30
-
f7A 4
132 Factor 15
-
f6B 10
133 Factor 8
-
f6B 1
134 Cal's Wall
-
f6A  
135 Tyres on Fire
-
f6A  
136 Heathen
-
f6A  
137 Imagination
-
f7A+  
138 Blazing Beat
-
f6C  
139 Dregs
-
f4 1
140 Gather The Owls * f4+ * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson