Climbs 94
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 184m a.s.l
Faces W

Me on The Plonka (S), Corby's Crag, Northumberland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Most routes are S to HVS. This crag, because of its proximity to the car park gets far too much traffic and is being seriously damaged, particularly by large groups. [John Earl]

Some great middle grade single and (a few) double pitch climbs. Wet in winter, and sometimes slow to dry; fine and well worthwhile in summer. The more popular routes are normally quite clean; others can be quite dusty with sediment from the water run-off. Route of the Crag: Audacity - 15m, HVS, 5a (but often dusty). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes

Please don't! [John Earl] But if you do..

3 miles west of Alnwick, on the B6341, and 3 miles east of the A697. Travelling E, you'll see the crags from the road. Travelling W, look for the second largish lay-by of the right side of the road, about 300 yards after a ninety degree left turn. There are a number of crags; the main ones are below the level of the road, completely hidden from view, but all of twenty yards from the road. BTW, you get one of the best views in Northumberland from the crags, over the Vale of Whittingham, an ancient floodplain, with Cheviot in the distance. [Simon Smith]

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Not as bad a crag as the locals would have you believe. The rock on the Sunshine Superman section of the crag is some of the best quality sandstone in the county. Nice evening crag with a lovely view, not perfect though.
hobblingfool - 22/Sep/12
Nice little crag easy access with the parking right above it, Great views from top, some climbs graded on the soft side, but good venue
Geds - 20/Oct/11
Good days climbing to be had, Parking roadside could be dodgy due to angle facing upwards when parking and nice not to hear cars roaring passed. Dries out very quickly
ronaldo45 - 17/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
2 Shadow Crack VS 4c 3
3 Friday's Child E3 5c * 8
4 Ash Wednesday E4 6a *  
5 Ranadon E2 5b *** 90
6 Man Friday VS 4c * 37
7 Audacity HVS 5a *** 301
8 Snoukry's Traverse HVS 5a  
9 Tenacity E4 6a * 2
10 Cauliflower Lug E3 6a  
11 Plumbline VS 4c 25
12 Combo
-
HS 4b 15
13 Easy Rider S 4a 64
14 False Impression VS 5a 5
15 Black Wall HVS 5a * 108
16 Bake when Ready D ** 1
17 Misunderstanding S 4a * 100
18 Cake Walk D 42
19 Amorous Antics E3 6b 1
20 Boulder, Crack and Slab VD 12
  Upper Middle Section
22 Bogeyman VS 5a * 42
23 Birdie HVS 5a 14
24 Super Spooky E2 5c 1
25 Hole in One VS 4c * 103
26 Corbeau E1 5a * 51
27 Sunshine Superman HVS 5a *** 231
28 Sunshine Superman Traverse
-
f5 14
29 Crab Walk D 25
30 Crab Walk Variation
-
D 5b 5
31 Point Blank E3 6a 4
  South Buttress
33 Tiger Feet E1 5a ** 185
34 Ken's Caper HVS 4c * 66
35 Gibbon's Gambol E2 5c * 43
36 Wonderland S 4a 77
37 Crossover S 4a * 109
38 The Plonka S 4a *** 653
39 Watering Can
-
VS 4c 29
40 Missed Opportunity HVS 5b 5
41 Scotsman's Way VS 4c * 185
42 First Opportunity S 4b * 310
43 Overunder HS 4b * 310
44 Overunder Variation VS 5a 42
45 Temptation VS 5a * 169
46 Kirbys Crack MVS 4a ** 4
47 Prediction VS 5a 36
48 Chicken Run VS 4c * 111
  Far South Buttress
50 Bluebird E3 6a * 4
51 Misrepresentation VS 4c ** 271
52 Nut's Wall VS 4c ** 257
53 L.P. VS 4c * 128
54 Reject E1 5b 44
55 Bloody Sunday VS 5a * 70
56 Two Tree Chimney D 31
57 Little X VS 5a * 108
58 Little X Direct VS 5b 16
59 Mr Jones D 226
  Lower Middle Section
61 Dog Rough S 110
62 Crew MVS 4c 6
63 Sow HS 4b 7
  Top Boulder
65 Problem 5 V1 5b 16
66 Top Traverse
-
f5 16
67 Reject (Problem)
-
f5 14
68 Bloody Sunday (Problem)
-
f5 13
69 Eliminate
-
f4+ 21
70 Far South Buttress Traverse
-
f5 11
  Corby's Upper Crag
72 Right Wall
-
f4+ 4
73 Broken Flake f4 5
74 Nose Direct
-
f5 2
75 Buttress Six Route 15
-
f5 2
76 Ironstone Edge * f6A+ 5
77 Fools Rush In * f6B 2
78 The Overhang * f4+ 19
79 Fingertip Flake * f6B *** 11
80 South Buttress Traverse * f4+ 9
81 Problem 28 (Small Buttress) * f4 9
82 Problem 32 (Small Buttress) * f4 4
83 Problem 36 (Carved Steps Buttress) * f5+ 9
84 Problem 37 (Carved Steps Buttress) * f5 4
85 Problem 7 (Buttress Three) * f4+ 1
86 Problem 20 (Buttress Seven) * f4+ 1
87 Problem 22 (Buttress Seven) * f4 1
88 Problem 23 (Buttress Seven) * f4+ 2
89 The Pillar f6C 1
90 Beneath the Tree (variation) * f5 5
91 Short overhang * f5+ 5
92 Short wall * f4+ 7
93 Behind the boulder * f4+ 5
94 Beneath the Tree * f5+ 16
95 First Problem * f6A 16
96 Problem 30 (Small Buttress) *
-
f4+ 5
97 Problem 31 (Small Buttress) * f5 2
98 Scoop Centre f4+ 3
99 Central Crack f4 1
100 Gibbons Gamble Traverse f5 10
  Unknown Routes
102 Silent Freeway
-
E2 5c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sam Judson