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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 123
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 184m a.s.l
Faces W

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Me on The Plonka (S), Corby's Crag, Northumberland © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Most routes are S to HVS. This crag, because of its proximity to the car park gets far too much traffic and is being seriously damaged, particularly by large groups. [John Earl]
Some great middle grade single and (a few) double pitch climbs. Wet in winter, and sometimes slow to dry; fine and well worthwhile in summer. The more popular routes are normally quite clean; others can be quite dusty with sediment from the water run-off. Route of the Crag: Audacity - 15m, HVS, 5a (but often dusty). [Simon Smith]

Approach notes

Please don't! [John Earl] But if you do..
3 miles west of Alnwick, on the B6341, and 3 miles east of the A697. Travelling E, you'll see the crags from the road. Travelling W, look for the second largish lay-by of the right side of the road, about 300 yards after a ninety degree left turn. There are a number of crags; the main ones are below the level of the road, completely hidden from view, but all of twenty yards from the road. BTW, you get one of the best views in Northumberland from the crags, over the Vale of Whittingham, an ancient floodplain, with Cheviot in the distance. [Simon Smith] Many of the routes now seem to be protected by vicious brambles and nettles.  Secateurs and an industrial grade strimmer would be useful tools to reach some of the routes.  Approach paths are very overgrown

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Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
Not as bad a crag as the locals would have you believe. The rock on the Sunshine Superman section of the crag is some of the best quality sandstone in the county. Nice evening crag with a lovely view, not perfect though.
hobblingfool - 22/Sep/12
Nice little crag easy access with the parking right above it, Great views from top, some climbs graded on the soft side, but good venue
Geds - 20/Oct/11
Good days climbing to be had, Parking roadside could be dodgy due to angle facing upwards when parking and nice not to hear cars roaring passed. Dries out very quickly
ronaldo45 - 17/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
2 Shadow Crack VS 4c 3
3 Friday's Child E3 5c * 9
4 Ash Wednesday E4 6a * 1
5 Ranadon E2 5b *** 103
6 Man Friday VS 4c * 42
7 Audacity HVS 5a *** 362
8 Snoukry's Traverse HVS 5a 3
9 Tenacity E4 6a * 4
10 Cauliflower Lug E3 6a 1
11 Plumbline VS 4c 31
12 Combo
-
HS 4b 18
13 Easy Rider S 4a 73
14 False Impression VS 5a 5
15 Black Wall HVS 5a * 123
16 Bake when Ready D ** 4
17 Misunderstanding S 4a * 116
18 Cake Walk D 49
19 Amorous Antics E3 6b 1
20 Boulder, Crack and Slab VD 15
  Upper Middle Section
22 Bogeyman VS 5a * 49
23 Birdie HVS 5a 14
24 Super Spooky E2 5c 2
25 Hole in One VS 4c * 120
26 Corbeau E1 5a * 61
27 Sunshine Superman HVS 5a *** 281
28 Sunshine Superman Traverse
-
f5 14
29 Crab Walk D 28
30 Crab Walk Variation
-
D 5b 5
31 Point Blank E3 6a 4
32 Ironstone Edge f6A+ 6
33 Fools Rush In f6B 3
  South Buttress
35 Tiger Feet E1 5a ** 214
36 Ken's Caper HVS 4c * 78
37 Gibbon's Gambol E2 5c * 51
38 Wonderland S 4a 93
39 Crossover S 4a * 116
40 The Plonka S 4a *** 783
41 Watering Can
-
VS 4c 34
42 Missed Opportunity HVS 5b 10
43 Wheatcroft's Delight HS 4b 1
44 Scotsman's Way VS 4c * 215
45 First Opportunity S 4b * 357
46 Overunder HS 4b * 389
47 Overunder Variation VS 5a 48
Climb name Grade
48 Temptation VS 5a * 205
49 Kirbys Crack MVS 4a ** 4
50 Prediction VS 5a 42
51 Flake Wall f4 1
52 Chicken Run VS 4c * 124
53 Chicken Run (Problem) f4 1
54 Scoop Centre f4+ 4
55 Scoop Edge f4+ 1
56 South Buttress Traverse f4+ 9
57 Gibbons Gamble Traverse f5 10
58 Tiger's Tale HVS 5b  
  Far South Buttress
60 Bluebird E3 6a * 5
61 Misrepresentation VS 4c ** 331
62 Nut's Wall VS 4c ** 320
63 L.P. VS 4c * 157
64 Eliminate
-
f4+ 24
65 Reject E1 5b 49
66 Reject (Problem)
-
f5 17
67 Bloody Sunday VS 5a * 87
68 Bloody Sunday (Problem)
-
f5 16
69 Two Tree Chimney D 33
70 Little X VS 5a * 120
71 Little X (Problem) f4+ 1
72 Little X Direct VS 5b 19
73 Little X Direct(Problem) f5 1
74 Mighty Oak f5  
75 Mr Jones D 257
76 Far South Buttress Traverse
-
f5 12
  Small Buttress
78 Problem 28 f4 13
79 Problem 29 f5+  
80 Problem 30 f4+ 6
81 Problem 31 f5 3
82 Problem 32 f4 5
  Carved Steps Boulder
84 Problem 33 f4  
85 Problem 34 f4+  
86 Problem 35 f5+  
87 Problem 36 f5+ 9
88 Problem 37 f5 4
89 Problem 38 f5  
  Lower Middle Section
91 Dog Rough S 115
92 Crew MVS 4c 6
93 Sow HS 4b 8
94 The Cave f4+  
Climb name Grade
95 The Pillar f6C 1
  Top Boulder
97 First Problem f6A 20
98 Beneath the Tree f5+ 19
99 Beneath the Tree (variation) f5 5
100 Short overhang(Problem 3) f5+ 6
101 Fingertip Flake f6B *** 15
102 The Overhang f4+ 22
103 Short wall(Problem 6) f4+ 8
104 Behind the boulder f4+ 6
105 Top Traverse
-
f5 18
106 Problem 5 V1 5b 16
  Corby's Upper Crag
  High Buttress
109 Central Crack f4 4
110 Right Wall
-
f4+ 5
  Buttress Two
112 Broken Flake f4 7
113 Side Wall f6B  
114 Main Wall f5+ 1
115 Steep Wall f5 3
  Buttress Three
117 Problem 7 f4+ 2
118 Nose Direct f5 6
  Buttress Four
120 Problem 9 f4+ 1
121 Problem 10 f4+  
122 Problem 11 f4+ 1
123 Problem 12 Traverse f6C  
  Buttress Five
125 Problem 13 f4 3
126 Problem 13a f7B 1
127 Problem 14 f5  
  Buttress Six
129 Problem 15
-
f5 4
130 Problem 16 f6A 1
131 Problem 17 f5  
132 Problem 18 f5 1
133 Problem 19 Traverse
-
f5+  
  Buttress Seven
135 Problem 20 f4+ 2
136 Problem 21 f4+ 1
137 Problem 22 f4 2
138 Problem 23 f4+ 3
  Unknown Routes
140 Silent Freeway
-
E2 5c 2

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