Climbs 103
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces N

Crag Lough VS © JDal

Crag features

Shed loads of fine single pitch routes in the Diff - VS range with good protection and rock. Very suitable for beginners. Useless in the wet, and its north facing aspect can make it very cold.

Approach notes

The access notes on the BMC website are currently a waste of time - they just say that there may or may not be a peregrine nesting and you should avoid it if there is. Not much use in deciding whether to visit in the first place! For the record, there is currently (20/6/10) a nest just left of Main Wall.

The peregrine usually nests in the vicinity of Main Wall. It'll soon make itself known if you get too close - the rest of the crag is OK to climb on.

Along the Roman Wall from Steel Rigg carpark at Twice Brewed. You can see the crag above the lough from the car park.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Northumberland Climbing Guide (2004)

Out of print:
I found a house key on unusual key ring yesterday at base of crag at eastern end. Does anyone know the owner?
johnjb - 31/May/15
Lots of great lines (especially in the easier grades)but some of the harder routes are, despite the 2012 clean-up noted below, pretty dirty/lichenous.
frazoir - 02/Jul/13
There will be a clean-up of the crag (removal of excess vegetation) in September 15th 2012 More details here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=514066
The Mole - 13/Aug/12
Appears to be a variety of birds nesting in a variety of places (some not easily know until mid climb). Also appears to be some damaged nests (such as on Pinnacle Face), please be obserant of birds nesting and very careful when climbing .
josephgrimwade - 23/Apr/11
Lots of excellent VS, HVS and E1's and don't be put off by appearances e.g. Wooden Tops E15b - looks nothing but is great fun. Did my very first E1 here: Whinstone Churchill [July 1987]; in the next edition of the Guidebook it had been elevated to E2, sports a very committing & poorly protected move left at half height but is immensely satisfying, once done!
allmag - 16/Aug/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 West Chimney M 134
2 West Corner S 4a 92
3 Wall and Crack D 119
4 Fifth Avenue
-
M 18
5 Face Route S 4a 198
6 Original Route
-
S 21
7 Route Three VS 5a * 28
8 Intermediate Treatment
-
E2 5c 2
9 Route One HVS 5a ** 92
10 Route Two VD * 63
11 Impossible Slab E3 5c * 4
12 Impossible Buttress Obverse
-
HVS 5a 4
13 Pinnacle Crack
-
D 29
14 Bracket VD ** 205
15 Pinnacle Face VS 4c *** 313
16 Pinnacle Face Obverse
-
S 17
17 Hadrian's Recess S 4a * 81
18 Hadrian's Buttress HS 4b *** 413
19 Hadrian's Rib VS 4c * 39
20 Hadrian's Chimney S 4b 52
21 Hadrian's East VD * 64
22 Crescent Climb
-
VD 14
23 Hadrian's Highway
-
S 4
24 Hadrian's Necklace
-
MVS 4b 2
25 Ash Tree Wall S 4a * 65
26 Amendment
-
VD 5
27 Evasion Groove HVS 5a * 17
28 Tarzan S 4a *** 254
29 Easy Picking
-
HVS 5b 3
30 Tarzan's Mate S 4a ** 111
31 Cheetah Traverse
-
S 3
32 Jane
-
MVS 4c 3
33 Belfy Buttress
-
S 4
34 Sausage Juice VS 4c 2
35 Sinister Corner S 4a * 28
36 The Sinister Sizzler HS 4b * 1
37 Jezebel Direct VS 4b * 51
38 Jezebel D *** 279
39 Hara Kari
-
HS 4b 9
40 Wooden Tops E1 5b * 15
41 Spot the Dog
-
HVS 5b * 5
42 Raven's Arete
-
E1 5b 2
43 Raven's Tower VS 4b ** 78
44 Cresent Cracks VS 5a ** 35
45 Sweet Violets Bitter Almonds
-
D 2
46 The Central Girdle
-
MVS 4c * 2
47 Dexterity S 4a ** 67
48 Why Not VS 5a ** 34
49 Why Not Direct HVS 5b ** 32
50 Chariot Race E3 5c * 5
51 Block Chimney D ** 26
52 Ben Hur
-
E1 5c  
53 Block Chimney Super Direct
-
HVS 5a * 5
54 Naissance
-
VD 3
55 Catherine
-
VS 4c 2
56 Deep Gully M 13
57 Centurion's Crack
-
S 7
58 Praetor
-
VD 5
59 Doomsday Crack
-
HS 4b 3
60 Gargoyle
-
HVS 5b 1
61 Punch Line
-
HS 4b 3
62 Back Alley D ** 46
63 Trapezium D 6
64 Waterloo
-
HS 4b 4
65 Spuggies Gully VD ** 47
66 Abseil Wall
-
VS 5a 6
67 Broken Ash Buttress
-
VD 5
68 Sombrero
-
S 2
69 Chimney and Mantleshelf
-
D 3
70 Castor
-
D 4
71 Y Climb HVS 5a * 17
72 Crystal HVS 5a *** 122
73 Grad's Groove VS 4b ** 42
74 Brutus
-
HVS 5b 3
75 Neglect HVS 5a * 13
76 Right Organ Pipe
-
HS 6
77 Central Organ Pipe
-
HS 5
78 Left Organ Pipe HVS 5a * 15
79 Midnight Watch
-
HVS 5a  
80 Bisector
-
S 7
81 Impossible Wall E4 6b *** 5
82 Great Chimney HS 4b *** 73
83 God Lives Under Water
-
E2 5b 5
84 Main Wall HS 4b *** 283
85 Main Wall Route Two HVS 5a * 9
86 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 5a 1
87 Main Wall Link VS 5a 2
88 Botany Crack
-
S 2
89 Stephenson's Rocket E4 5c * 1
90 Overhanging Chimney
-
VS 5a 3
91 Treetop Buttress
-
MS 2
92 Sciatica
-
VS 4c 4
93 High Level Girdle Traverse
-
VS 5a 2
94 Treetop Grooves
-
S 3
95 Sensitol
-
E1 5b  
96 Titus
-
VD 4
97 Helix
-
S ** 8
98 Helix Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
99 Whinstone Churchill E2 5b *** 29
100 Whinstone Churchill Direct Start E3 5c ** 4
101 Hoozit's Crack
-
S ** 4
102 Oversight
-
MVS 4c 2
103 Pocker Chimney
-
VD 1

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