Climbs 151
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 115m a.s.l
Faces SW

A stunning day at Kyloe © stugreen75

Crag features

One of Northumberland's finest crags. Good routes are evenly spread throughout the grades, except at the very top and bottom ends. Bouldering is less extensive than in the Woods, but there are some excellent problems.

Approach notes

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick and head towards Lowick. Turn left at the cross roads before Lowick. The crag can be seen on the left. Park considerately near the gate and follow the track to the crag.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
lots (!) of ticks about (early june) - worth taking repellant and doing a thorough check at the end of the day.
BelleVedere - 14/Jun/17
Fallen block from Chris's Arete https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=294383 Location of block https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=294384 Don't think it will affect things much, gives bigger ledge to stand on.
MJAngry - 05/Jun/17
Brilliant crag, one of my favorites, best bit is lack of noise as it is a fair distance from busy roads. flake crag rulz!!!
pheonix - 30/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry
2 Fence Post Corner VD 13
3 The Seventh Day E5 6c *  
4 The Sabbath E4 6a * 1
5 Original Sin E4 6a ** 42
6 Tsar Bomba
-
E5 6c  
7 Baptism E2 5c * 3
8 Quarry Arete f7A * 15
9 Active Service HS 5b 70
10 Active Service HS 5b 30
11 The Fat Lady Sang f6C * 45
12 Smooth Operator f6C+ * 19
13 Mantel Madness f5+ 80
14 Dirty
-
f4+ 67
15 Easy Peasy
-
f4 58
16 Incisor S 4a 93
17 Quarry Slab Traverse f6A+ 20
18 Canine Wall D 54
19 New Recruit E2 5c 5
20 Dogleg E1 5b 52
21 Bird's Nest Corner VD 91
22 Chicken Run E1 5b 12
23 Peewit S 4b 52
24 The Faggot E2 6a 4
25 Bar Skittles f7A+ * 6
26 Devil's Edge HVS 5a ** 419
27 Back to the Egg E2 5c * 55
28 Learning to Fly f8A ** 1
29 Prickly Corner
-
S 5a 11
30 Fat Slags
-
E2 5c 11
  Saint's Wall
32 Simon Templar
-
f4+ 17
33 The Saint
-
f5+ 41
34 Parity HS 4b * 389
35 Trinity VS 4c ** 704
36 Waverly Wafer E2 5c 67
37 Waverly Variation VS 4c 78
38 Temptation M * 125
39 Threadbare HVS 5a 35
40 Pink Socks on Top E1 5b 83
41 Saint's Progress S 4b * 321
42 Holy Mother of Inspiration (Don't Fail Me Now) E3 6a 20
43 St. Ivel VS 4c ** 456
44 Litany VS 5a * 140
45 Metaphysical Man
-
f6B 8
46 Saint's Arete HVS 5b * 41
47 Bede
-
E2 6a 4
  concave wall
49 The Scoop
-
f6B+ 4
50 The Arete
-
f6B 5
  Overhanging Buttress
52 Just Passing
-
MVS 5a 5
53 Easy Traverse D 68
54 OHB Low Level Traverse
-
f5+ * 30
55 OHB Lowest Level Traverse
-
f6A+ 9
56 Cloister Wall HS 4b ** 391
57 Lost Property HVS 5a * 94
58 Hot Spring E3 6a * 12
59 Birdlime Crack HVD 4a * 365
60 The Elevator HVS 5a ** 195
61 The Elevator (Direct Finish)
-
E3 6a  
62 Irresistable Compulsion
-
E3 5c 1
63 Coldstream Corner HVS 5a *** 439
64 Roof LH
-
f6C 6
65 Albatross (Start) E6 6c * 32
66 Roof RH
-
f6B 35
67 Fragile Lip Traverse
-
f6A 2
68 Albatross E6 6c 3
69 Penitent's Walk HVS 5a * 96
70 Paternoster
-
E3 6b 2
71 Oxter Wall E1 5b 28
  cheviot charlie buttress
73 CC Traverse
-
f5+ 6
74 CC Low Traverse
-
f6C 1
75 Cheviot Charlie
-
E1 5b 25
76 Giblets
-
E1 5b 10
77 Dirty Bum
-
VS 5a 8
78 Pellagra
-
E2 5c 1
  Neb Buttress
80 Burns Offering
-
M 19
81 Neb SW
-
f7A+ 1
82 Upstart's Downfall
-
VD 33
83 Hoglet VD 19
84 Conifer Direct
-
S 4b 148
85 Ramp and Wall
-
S 4b 60
86 Double Decker
-
E1 5b 9
  Fir Tree Buttress
88 West Wall Traverse
-
f6A 1
89 Fawlty Towers
-
VS 4c 76
90 Green Greeny
-
f5+ 30
91 Diminuendo S 4b 115
92 Moment of Glory f6A 12
93 The Traverse
-
f6C 2
94 Not the Traverse
-
f7A+ 6
95 The Crack
-
f4 10
  Central Wall
97 Headbanger Direct
-
f5+ 7
98 Headbanger
-
E1 5c 25
99 The Pincer Direct E1 5c 2
100 The Pincer HVS 5b * 115
101 Flake Crack S 4b *** 1197
102 Oral Spout
-
E2 6a 2
103 Wasted Time E1 5b * 234
104 Wasted Time Direct E2 5c * 49
105 Tacitation VS 5a *** 900
106 Tacitation Right Hand E2 5b 2
107 Central Wall Traverse
-
f6C 1
108 Posh Traverse f7A+ 1
109 Prime Time E4 6b * 2
110 Prime Time f7A+ ** 28
111 Prime Time SS f7B+ *** 64
112 Northern Territory
-
f7C+ *** 6
113 Northern Territory (low sit start) f7C+ *** 1
114 Australia Crack E3 6b *** 5
115 Cataclysm
-
E6 7a 1
116 Oversight HS 4b * 35
117 Holly Tree ArĂȘte S 4a 20
118 The Glade
-
MVS 4c 120
  Space Buttress
120 Eeny
-
VD 196
121 Meeny
-
VD 361
122 Miny
-
S 4a 314
123 Mo
-
S 4a 313
124 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect LH
-
f6A 20
125 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect f6C 19
126 Christmas Cracker f7A+ 2
127 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect RH f6B 20
128 Christmas Tree Arete VD * 622
129 Christmas Tree Arete (Direct Finish) VS 4c 433
130 Space Buttress Traverse f6A * 2
131 Gargarin's Groove HVS 5a ** 432
132 Elder Brother E4 6b * 3
133 First Born E4 6b ** 30
134 An Anniversary Waltz
-
E5 6b * 3
135 Spacewalk E2 5c * 149
136 Spacewalk (Direct Start) E3 6a 1
137 Sidewalk E2 5b 1
  Deception Buttress
139 West Wall Groove VS 5a 15
140 West Wall
-
HVS 5a 39
141 The Adder HS 4c 7
142 Spirit on Mars
-
MVS 4c 6
143 Deception Wall HS 4c * 204
144 Deceiver HVS 5b 85
145 Deception Crack HS 4b ** 784
146 Wilfred Prickles HVS 5a ** 804
147 Deception Traverse
-
f5+ 6
148 Fakir's Crack VD 225
149 Fakir's Groove VD 163
150 Fakir's Slab HVD * 276
151 Slab and Groove VS 5a * 393
152 Slab and Wall VS 4c * 560
153 Slab and Arete
-
E1 5b 121
  Twin Cracks Buttress
155 John's Wall S 4b 81
156 Chris's Arete HS 4b * 210
157 Chris's Twin f6B ** 2
158 Twin Cracks S 4b 242
159 Twin Cracks Traverse f6A 6
160 Twin Cracks Traverse Sit Start f6A+ * 1
161 Climbing Up The Walls f6B 1

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