Climbs 151
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 115m a.s.l
Faces SW

A stunning day at Kyloe © apollo18

Crag features

One of Northumberland's finest crags. Good routes are evenly spread throughout the grades, except at the very top and bottom ends. Bouldering is less extensive than in the Woods, but there are some excellent problems.

Approach notes

Turn off the A1 at Fenwick and head towards Lowick. Turn left at the cross roads before Lowick. The crag can be seen on the left. Park considerately near the gate and follow the track to the crag.

Access Advice

Access relationships at Kyloe are currently good, please ensure that they stay that way:

  • Park sensibly - don't block gates, the road or park on the farmer's mown lawn (see parking section below for more info)
  • Woodland Management will sometimes engage in deerstalking in these woods - it is essential that you only walk along the route described below to get to the crag for safety reasons.
  • No fires
  • Take all litter home including any found at the crag
  • Keep dogs under control (particularly when crossing fields with grazing sheep and cattle)

Remember, access to Kyloe In is a privilege, not a right and inconsiderate or irresponsible behaviour can lose it. If there are any cases of poor climber behaviour or conflict with the stalker or management, please inform the BMC access team so we can deal with the issue before it gets out of hand.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 September to 30 March

Reason: Live Firing

Scottish Woodlands (the landowner of Kyloe In) have confirmed that access is now permitted at all times, regardless of stalking activity at Kyloe-in-the-woods (Kyloe-In).

It is crucial that climbers approach the crag via the track described below and do not deviate from it or the crag. Do not thrash through the woodland from Kyloe Out.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Lost gear! I found a grigri and other climbing gear today. 25/4/18 Contact me if you have lost anything.
RustyMember - 25/Apr/18
lots (!) of ticks about (early june) - worth taking repellant and doing a thorough check at the end of the day.
BelleVedere - 14/Jun/17
Fallen block from Chris's Arete https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=294383 Location of block https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=294384 Don't think it will affect things much, gives bigger ledge to stand on.
MJAngry - 05/Jun/17
Brilliant crag, one of my favorites, best bit is lack of noise as it is a fair distance from busy roads. flake crag rulz!!!
pheonix - 30/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Quarry
2 Fence Post Corner VD 18
3 The Seventh Day E5 6c *  
4 The Sabbath E4 6a * 1
5 Original Sin E4 6a ** 50
6 Tsar Bomba
-
E5 6c  
7 Baptism E2 5c * 4
8 Quarry Arete f7A * 18
9 Active Service HS 5b 74
10 Active Service HS 5b 37
11 The Fat Lady Sang f6C * 52
12 Smooth Operator f6C+ * 22
13 Mantel Madness f5+ 90
14 Dirty
-
f4+ 77
15 Easy Peasy
-
f4 66
16 Incisor S 4a 96
17 Quarry Slab Traverse f6A+ 22
18 Canine Wall D 67
19 New Recruit E2 5c 5
20 Dogleg E1 5b 59
21 Bird's Nest Corner VD 103
22 Chicken Run E1 5b 14
23 Peewit S 4b 57
24 The Faggot E2 6a 4
25 Bar Skittles f7A+ * 6
26 Devil's Edge HVS 5a ** 422
27 Back to the Egg E2 5c * 59
28 Learning to Fly f8A ** 2
29 Prickly Corner
-
S 5a 16
30 Fat Slags
-
E2 5c 11
  Saint's Wall
32 Simon Templar
-
f4+ 18
33 The Saint
-
f5+ 43
34 Parity HS 4b * 412
35 Trinity VS 4c ** 741
36 Waverly Wafer E2 5c 69
37 Waverly Variation VS 4c 79
38 Temptation M * 141
39 Threadbare HVS 5a 32
40 Pink Socks on Top E1 5b 88
41 Saint's Progress S 4b * 336
42 Holy Mother of Inspiration (Don't Fail Me Now) E3 6a 23
43 St. Ivel VS 4c ** 479
44 Litany VS 5a * 147
45 Metaphysical Man
-
f6B 8
46 Saint's Arete HVS 5b * 43
47 Bede
-
E2 6a 4
  concave wall
49 The Scoop
-
f6B+ 4
50 The Arete
-
f6B 5
  Overhanging Buttress
52 Just Passing
-
MVS 5a 6
53 Easy Traverse D 76
54 OHB Low Level Traverse
-
f5+ * 34
Climb name Grade
55 OHB Lowest Level Traverse
-
f6A+ 9
56 Cloister Wall HS 4b ** 424
57 Lost Property HVS 5a * 96
58 Hot Spring E3 6a * 12
59 Birdlime Crack HVD 4a * 392
60 The Elevator HVS 5a ** 201
61 The Elevator (Direct Finish)
-
E3 6a  
62 Irresistable Compulsion
-
E3 5c 1
63 Coldstream Corner HVS 5a *** 451
64 Roof LH
-
f6C 10
65 Albatross (Start) E6 6c * 41
66 Roof RH
-
f6B 41
67 Fragile Lip Traverse
-
f6A 4
68 Albatross E6 6c 3
69 Penitent's Walk HVS 5a * 95
70 Paternoster
-
E3 6b 2
71 Oxter Wall E1 5b 29
  cheviot charlie buttress
73 CC Traverse
-
f5+ 6
74 CC Low Traverse
-
f6C 1
75 Cheviot Charlie
-
E1 5b 31
76 Giblets
-
E1 5b 14
77 Dirty Bum
-
VS 5a 10
78 Pellagra
-
E2 5c 1
  Neb Buttress
80 Burns Offering
-
M 22
81 Neb SW
-
f7A+ 2
82 Upstart's Downfall
-
VD 34
83 Hoglet VD 26
84 Conifer Direct
-
S 4b 156
85 Ramp and Wall
-
S 4b 65
86 Double Decker
-
E1 5b 9
  Fir Tree Buttress
88 West Wall Traverse
-
f6A 1
89 Fawlty Towers
-
VS 4c 84
90 Green Greeny
-
f5+ 35
91 Diminuendo S 4b 125
92 Moment of Glory f6A 16
93 The Traverse
-
f6C 2
94 Not the Traverse
-
f7A+ 7
95 The Crack
-
f4 11
  Central Wall
97 Headbanger Direct
-
f5+ 7
98 Headbanger
-
E1 5c 30
99 The Pincer Direct E1 5c 3
100 The Pincer HVS 5b * 118
101 Flake Crack S 4b *** 1335
102 Oral Spout
-
E2 6a 2
103 Wasted Time E1 5b * 260
104 Wasted Time Direct E2 5c * 57
105 Tacitation VS 5a *** 972
106 Tacitation Right Hand E2 5b 3
107 Central Wall Traverse
-
f6C 2
108 Posh Traverse f7A+ 1
Climb name Grade
109 Prime Time E4 6b * 2
110 Prime Time f7A+ ** 33
111 Prime Time SS f7B+ *** 75
112 Northern Territory
-
f7C+ *** 11
113 Northern Territory (low sit start) f7C+ *** 1
114 Australia Crack E3 6b *** 7
115 Cataclysm
-
E6 7a 1
116 Oversight HS 4b * 31
117 Holly Tree ArĂȘte S 4a 21
118 Fang f6B 1
119 The Glade
-
MVS 4c 129
  Space Buttress
121 Eeny
-
VD 200
122 Meeny
-
VD 382
123 Miny
-
S 4a 348
124 Mo
-
S 4a 346
125 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect LH
-
f6A 26
126 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect f6C 22
127 Christmas Cracker f7A+ 3
128 Christmas Tree Arete Indirect RH f6B 23
129 Christmas Tree Arete VD * 675
130 Christmas Tree Arete (Direct Finish) VS 4c 480
131 Space Buttress Traverse f6A * 2
132 Gargarin's Groove HVS 5a ** 469
133 Elder Brother E4 6b * 3
134 First Born E4 6b ** 39
135 An Anniversary Waltz
-
E5 6b * 3
136 Spacewalk E2 5c * 169
137 Spacewalk (Direct Start) E3 6a 1
138 Sidewalk E2 5b 1
  Deception Buttress
140 West Wall Groove VS 5a 19
141 West Wall
-
HVS 5a 43
142 The Adder HS 4c 8
143 Spirit on Mars
-
MVS 4c 7
144 Deception Wall HS 4c * 216
145 Deceiver HVS 5b 92
146 Deception Crack HS 4b ** 859
147 Wilfred Prickles HVS 5a ** 885
148 Deception Traverse
-
f5+ 6
149 Fakir's Crack VD 235
150 Fakir's Groove VD 177
151 Fakir's Slab HVD * 297
152 Slab and Groove VS 5a * 431
153 Slab and Wall VS 4c * 615
154 Slab and Arete
-
E1 5b 142
  Twin Cracks Buttress
156 John's Wall S 4b 88
157 Chris's Arete HS 4b * 222
158 Chris's Twin f6B ** 3
159 Twin Cracks S 4b 265
160 Twin Cracks Traverse f6A 7
161 Twin Cracks Traverse Sit Start f6A+ * 1
162 Climbing Up The Walls f6B 1

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