Climbs 15
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces NW

Deri © Mark Glaister

Approach notes

The crag is located between Deri and Bargoed and is quite awkward to get to. Either drive towards Deri from Bargoed, until the crag can be seen up on the left, park and walk in, or take a shorter but easy-to-get-lost way in. This involves taking the left fork just before Bargoed high street starts to drop down and taking a steep road to a right turn immediately before Heolddy Comprehensive School. Go over the first cattle grid to a second, then turn right. Follow this road for about a mile, until a grassed-over spoil heap can be seen on the right about 200m before a small stream valley with a marked footpath. Park, go over the fence and follow the path leftwards contouring round the hill to arrive at the crag. If on foot, forget it. The landowners (Parc Cwm Darren) have requested that climbers phone them on 01443 875557 when intending to use the crag.

A pair of Peregrine Budgies have nested here and the crag should be avoided from 31st March through to 31st July. Re-direct them to Penrhiwceiber.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Parc Cwm Daren have advised that they would like nesting restrictions observed. It is no longer necessary to inform them by phone before climbing.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
A lot of routes now restored and really worth a visit. The 7a arĂȘte Kicking Ass and Taking Names is brilliant. The Rock is pretty good and most of the routes are reasonably clean. Take a soft brush
guy xavier percival - 06/Aug/16
Has this crag been re-bolted? Seen some discussion on SWMC earlier this year and keen to see how good it is.
KH - 10/Sep/13
The good news: No telephone call required now. The bad news: All the bolts have been chopped with an angle grinder.
alan rosier - 08/Dec/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ace In The Hole 5c 3
2 Two Of A Kind 7a+ 2
3 Mine's A Pair 6b+ 4
4 Joker In The Pack 6c * 4
5 House Of Cards 7a * 3
6 Kicking Ass And Taking Names 7a ** 4
7 Chattery Teeth 7a+ *** 4
8 Olympic Doctor 7a+ * 3
9 Deri Made 6c ** 7
10 Steroid John 6c+ * 4
11 Coffee Shop 7a 3
12 Mister Foothold 7a * 4
13 Full Dog 7b 2
14 Menages A Chien 7a+ * 4
15 Troilism Trouble E2 * 4

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