Climbs 200
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces SW

Franco climbing Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a © Jake Hampshire

Crag features

Large sandstone outcrop. Loads of ace bouldering at all grades and a few hard projects on the crag.

Approach notes

DON'T WALK UP TRIPSDALE AS IT'S PRIVATE LAND AND YOU'LL NARK THE FARMER.

Normal way following the footpath as per Climbonline. Don't go up Tripsdale towards High Crag.

Update: Another way in is by parking at the village hall in chop gate. Cross the road and follow the public right of way which joins the farm track and takes you up the hill and through William Beck Farm. This then turns into a footpath and takes you onto the moor top via 3 gates. Join a bridleway at a T junction as it goes south for 100m, this then turns east and takes you down into Tripsdale on a zig zag track.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

The climbing lies below prime grouse moor which needs to be crossed to achieve access. Those wishing to climb are advised to check the Natural England, Open Access database for any temporary restrictions. The location is OS, SE582986.

Guidebooks

Take care when moving around the boulders. A number of snares have been set. Luckily I had my walking boots on when we found the first!
Paul Clarke - 05/Jan/15
Not quite true! Three grooves capped by an overlap provide an interesting buttress - all unclimbed. The slab provides some of the best slab climbing on the Moors, and then the delightful grooved arete and it's adjacent crackline are well worth climbing. All in all, Kay Nest is around 8 - 10 routes away from being brought into the modern age.
Dave Warburton - 05/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  MAIN CRAG
  Capped Grooves
3 Tally Ho
-
S  
4 A NEW WAY TO SAY HOORAY E4 5c ***  
5 Stirrup Cup
-
VD  
  Main Buttress
7 Flashpoint E4 5b * 1
8 Are You Shpongled? E7 6a 1
9 Blaze of Glory E7 6a 1
10 Trailblazer E6 6a ** 1
11 Lichen Wall Thin Crack E6 6c  
12 Grooved Arete E8 6c  
13 Main Face (Aid Route) VS 5a a5?  
14 Divine Moments Of Truth E10 7a 3
15 THE UELI STECK MEMORIAL ROUTE TD  
  Jutting Buttress
17 Stout Crack
-
VS 4c  
18 Harbinger E4 6b 2
19 Harbinger (Campus Start) f6C+ 1
20 Man on the Edge E5 6b 1
21 Scout Crack
-
S  
22 Slanter
-
S  
23 Vee Chimney
-
S  
  Magic Buttress
25 The Arete (Project) E8 7b  
  Mantleshelf Buttress
27 Hagg End Ridge
-
S  
28 Hagg End Ridge Variation Start S  
  Bouldering
  CAPSIZED BLOCK
31 Capsized - Problem 1
-
f5+ 3
32 The Quaker
-
f6C 3
33 Dick Richie
-
f7A+ 1
68 The Patio
-
f6C  
69 BBQ
-
f5 5
70 Ribs
-
f6B  
71 Full Rack
-
f6A+  
  THE NEST
73 Floyd f6A  
74 Elvis f5 4
75 Alabama Whitman f4+ 2
76 Drexl
-
f6A 2
77 True Romance f6C 5
  VERMILLION BLOCK
79 Vermillion f7C  
  NEST SLAB
81 Clarence Worley f7A 1
82 Clarence Worley (Standing)
-
f6A 1
83 Will Scarlet f7B 1
84 Police Captain Quiggle f6A+ 1
85 The King f5+ 1
86 Big Don f5 1
87 Little Don
-
f4 1
  MIXED EMOTIONS
89 Mixed Emotions f8B+  
90 Kandi
-
f6C  
  THE EAGLE STONE
92 Eagle ArĂȘte f5+ 2
93 Ramp f4 2
94 Raptor Wall f3+ 2
95 Wanderlust f6C 1
96 No Bouldering Here * f6A 3
97 Alabama Worley * f6A+ 4
98 Man Overboard * f7A 2
99 Capsize * f7A 2
100 Multiplexia * f6A+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson