Climbs 45
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

Padda Crag foot © Colin Matheson

Crag features

Do not ring Forestry Commission (as per suggestion) in the NMC guide and on UKC) they do not let cars up to the crag. They have asked that this information is corrected.

Really nice crag for winter sun. Dry with postive holds. Wild setting. Apache helicopters.

Approach notes

Along the Spadeadam road from Gilsland. Turn off right after 2km at Moscow Farm, along a narrow road. Follow for about 10km until the tarmac ends. head for Chirnside Lodge. Then turn left, past a ruined barn and then turn right. Follow this road for 1.2km until you reach a dip in the road over a stream. The crag is visible on the right. Follow the stream to reach it. Mountain bike approach is quick and easy.

This is an excellent little crag in an absolutely beatiful location at the western edge of Northumberland. The views across to the Lakes and North Pennines on a good day are marvellous. You really feel that this is a remote spot. The crag itself deserves more attention because, although not extensive, is south facing, the rock is excellent and unlike a lot of crags in the County there are plenty of lower grade routes to test the V.S. leader and below. There are a few places where the veg has taken over a little but traffic will soon clear this up and clean off the lichen etc. Most of the routes are clean and there are pine trees at the top from which to get a bomb proof belay. If you're looking for a quiet, splendidly situated moorland crag look no further and what's more you can drive almost to the bottom. On the way out we saw loads of roe deer, bird life and lots olf pine trees - give it a try!
Paul Quin - 16/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Padda Wall
-
HS 4b 13
2 Rooster Cogburn
-
D 6
3 Churnsike Crack
-
S 12
4 The Tower Crack
-
M 6
5 The Tower Ordinary M 5
6 Muleskinner
-
D 3
7 One-eyed Jack
-
VS 4c * 5
8 Teton
-
VD 5
9 Ojibwa
-
MS 5
10 Red Cloud
-
HVS 5b 1
11 Whoops
-
VS 3
12 Oregon Trail
-
MS 10
13 Chisholm Trail
-
D 3
14 Plute
-
S 5
15 Oregon Trail
-
MS * 2
16 Padda Chimney  D  
17 The Secret Six VS 4c  
18 Whoops
-
MVS 4b 9
19 Blad Eagle
-
HS 4b 2
20 Sioux Hare
-
VD 2
21 Cave Climb VD  
22 Creak
-
D 3
23 The Funnel
-
VS 5a  
24 Sike Wall
-
HVS 5b * 1
25 Lone Ranger
-
HVS 5b  
26 Witch Hunt
-
HVS 5b * 2
27 Arete Direct
-
HS 5
28 Leaning Crack
-
S 6
29 The Niggler
-
MVS 4
30 Vital Signs
-
VS 5b ** 2
31 Pipe of Peace
-
MVS 4c ** 6
32 Padda Stairs
-
D 3
33 Born Again HS  
34 Forked Tongue
-
MS * 5
35 Tomahawk
-
HS 3
36 Hiding to Nothing
-
HVS 4c * 1
37 Nasty Knobbles
-
S 1
38 Muleskinner
-
D  
39 The Nebbish
-
HVS 5b  
40 Little Groove
-
D  
41 Tusk
-
MVS 4c  
42 Little Squawk
-
VS 5a  
43 Hiawatha
-
HVS 5a ** 5
44 Papoose
-
MS 1
45 four Horns * E1 5b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]