Climbs 150
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces N

Into the light and a long way to go. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A superb crag on top quality sandstone. It suffers from insufficient traffic, presumably because of its' exposed position and the length of the walk in. Lots of hard stuff to go at.

Approach notes

Best approached by Mountain Bike. Park in the forestry commission car park between Lordenshaw and Great Tosson. Follow the forestry roads west to beneath Simonside. A track leads off West to a stile. The crag is 100 mtrs away.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Great sunny day out, I will be back. The lichen was dry today, but produced slippery ball bearings under hands and feet - needs more traffic (or bring a soft brush). We cleaned most of the starred VSes on lead, so they should be better for the rest of 2009 at least.
jonny taylor - 12/Sep/09
A very attractive crag in a very attractive location (a `long' walk-in is no excuse!). However, I found the grading extremely stiff.
stuaart - 21/Jun/09
Why have some of the routes on here been given boulder problem grades when they are 8/9m high??
Ben Gilbert - 15/Apr/09
Needs and deserves a lot more attention. Some of the best and most impressive lines in Northumberland, probably the most classics per crag in the county, and all in a stunning location. Even the walk isn't too bad. BUT the condition of many of the routes is poor and the lichen soaks up any moisture in the air. It REALLY needs some dedicated locals to go up regularly and give it a good scrub as well as climbing - should this really be left to outsiders who will might have driven 3+ hours?? I think not. Come on people, climb and clean up here, otherwise it's a waste of a superb crag.
Fiend - 09/Sep/08
Well worth the walk, but all fairly green and lichenous after the recent damp weather. Probably better later in the summer after a dry spell.
ed woods - 25/Jun/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Parallel Cracks Wall
2 Low Level Traverse
-
f6B  
3 Extended Traverse
-
f7A  
4 Easy Cave
-
M 5
5 Stomach Traverses
-
D 11
6 Amanda
-
HVS 5b 2
7 Incident
-
f5 2
8 Rubberneck HVS 5b 9
9 Dark Passage f6A  
10 On Edge
-
f6A 2
11 Left Parallel Crack VD 57
12 The Wall
-
f5+ 4
13 Central Parallel Crack VD 52
14 Smooth Wall
-
f5 6
15 Limbo f5+ * 17
16 Arete-shun E1 5b 9
17 Right Parallel Crack VD 31
18 Little Idi f5 31
19 Big Daddy f6C 20
20 Amin
-
f5+ 6
  East Buttress
22 Pete's Ploy E2 5b * 1
23 Plumbline E5 6a *** 3
24 The Judas Hole E5 6a ** 2
25 Pendulum Direct VS 4c ** 29
26 Pendulum VS 4c *** 106
27 Hanging Chimney S 4b * 4
28 Billy Biscuit E5 6a *** 1
29 Lapse of Reason E5 6a *  
30 Easter Grooves E2 5b * 3
31 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 5b  
32 Easter Bunny
-
HVS 4c  
  First Pinnacle
34 Verbal Abuse E2 5c  
35 Lupino Lane f8A  
36 Baluster Crack HVS 5b *** 18
37 Baluster Crack Variation Finish
-
HVS 5b  
38 The Sandrider E3 5c *** 1
39 Castaway E6 6a **  
40 The Trouser Legs E2 5c *** 15
41 The Trouser Legs Direct Start
-
E2 5c  
42 Brown Trousers
-
E2 5c 1
43 Agape E6 6a  
44 Easter Crack VD 8
45 E Star
-
HVS 5a  
46 Platform Route
-
VD 4
47 Tea Break Wall
-
MVS 3
48 Coffee Time
-
MVS 4b  
49 First Pinnacle Traverse
-
E2 5c  
  Intermediate Buttress
51 Lazy Afternoon
-
E2 5b  
52 Felix VS 5a 1
53 Pussyfoot VS 5a 1
54 Catwalk VD 8
55 Index Breaker
-
f6A+ 1
56 Octopus E3 6b * 2
57 Reiver E7 6c ** 2
58 Smarty Pants E2 5c ** 8
59 Half Minute Crack VS 5a ** 3
60 Chasing Sheep
-
E3 6b  
61 One Boot Crack VS 5a *  
62 Backdoor
-
M 4
  Second Pinnacle
64 Layback VD 10
65 The Nark VS 4c 4
66 Dawes' Route E5 6c * 1
67 The Squealer E2 5c  
68 Scoop Crack HS 4b * 39
69 Cat's Whiskers HVS 5b * 11
70 Hot Bricks E1 5c  
71 East Wall S 4a 4
72 Sunny Sunday E2 5c  
73 Crocodile Arete E7 6c *** 2
74 Ivan Dobsky f8A+ ***  
75 Old Man River E4 6a *  
76 Honeymoon Crack E3 6a *** 2
77 Trial Seperation E4 6b **  
78 Rock and Rolll Star E5 6a *  
79 Candle in the Wind E3 5c *** 4
80 Gates of Eden E2 5c ** 10
81 Paradise Lost E5 6b **  
82 Borstal Boy E1 5b  
83 The Crescent S 4b * 58
84 Crescent Wall VS 4b ** 58
85 Wide Eyed and Legless E4 5c *  
  West Buttress
87 Cave Crack VS 4c  
88 First Among Equals E6 6b *** 2
89 Ravensheugh Crack HVS 5a *** 70
90 Check out Me Tyres f8A  
91 Check Out Me Pipes
-
f7C+ **  
92 Childhood's End E4 6a *** 18
93 Wild West Show HVS 5a *** 45
94 Redskin E3 5b *  
95 Hang em' High E5 6a *  
96 Sitting Bull E3 5b  
97 Buckskin VS 4c ** 9
98 Moccasin Slab HVS 5a * 20
  Bonneville and Beyond
100 Bonneville E3 6c *  
101 Penfold f7B+ *  
102 T.C E3 5c  
103 Mole S 4a * 8
104 Just Arrested E2 5b  
105 Just Ice E3 6a 1
106 On the Arete
-
f4  
107 Out of the Gully
-
f4  
108 Out On The Wall Gully D 3
109 Overpowered E5 6c  
110 Overpowered (start only) f7A 1
111 Underpowered f7A * 1
112 Pink Lane E1 5b * 4
113 Facing Facts E2 5c  
114 Little Learner VS 5a ** 31
115 Bede Crack S 4a 20
116 Grease E4 6a * 3
117 Grease Direct
-
E4 6b  
118 Mimic E3 5c  
119 St Cuthbert's Crack VS 5a * 9
120 The Duergar
-
f7A+ 9
121 Slab Corner VD 4
122 Zig Zag Slab Route 1
-
S 4
123 Zig Zag Slab Route 2
-
S 2
  Capstan Rock
125 Capstan Full Strength
-
E2 5c  
126 Capstan Crack
-
VS  
127 Funeral for a Friend
-
E4 6a  
128 The Convict
-
E2 5b 1
  Heather Slab
130 Heather Slab
-
M 5
131 The One That Got Away
-
VS 5a  
  Plumber Buttress
133 Green Gully
-
D  
134 Steeple Crack
-
VS 5a  
135 The Apprentice E4 6b *  
136 Debbie McGee f7A+ 1
137 The Magician E7 7a **  
138 The Plumber E5 6b *  
139 The Sewer
-
S  
140 Soil Stack Crack
-
VS 5a *  
141 Badger
-
S 5
  Trident buttress
143 Neptune
-
VS 5a  
144 Trident Chimney
-
VD 3
  Far West Buttress
146 Futility VS 4c * 4
  The Boulders
148 Traverse
-
f6C  
149 Right Arete
-
f5+  
150 Smooth Slab
-
f5+  
151 Heptagon Boulder Traverse
-
f6B  
152 Split Block Traverse
-
f6C  
153 Featherweights Flake
-
f6C  
154 Scoop RH
-
VD 1
155 Little Crack
-
S 1

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