Climbs 150
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces N

Into the light and a long way to go. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A superb crag on top quality sandstone. It suffers from insufficient traffic, presumably because of its' exposed position and the length of the walk in. Lots of hard stuff to go at.

Approach notes

Best approached by Mountain Bike. Park in the forestry commission car park between Lordenshaw and Great Tosson. Follow the forestry roads west to beneath Simonside. A track leads off West to a stile. The crag is 100 mtrs away.


Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Great sunny day out, I will be back. The lichen was dry today, but produced slippery ball bearings under hands and feet - needs more traffic (or bring a soft brush). We cleaned most of the starred VSes on lead, so they should be better for the rest of 2009 at least.
jonny taylor - 12/Sep/09
A very attractive crag in a very attractive location (a `long' walk-in is no excuse!). However, I found the grading extremely stiff.
stuaart - 21/Jun/09
Why have some of the routes on here been given boulder problem grades when they are 8/9m high??
Ben Gilbert - 15/Apr/09
Needs and deserves a lot more attention. Some of the best and most impressive lines in Northumberland, probably the most classics per crag in the county, and all in a stunning location. Even the walk isn't too bad. BUT the condition of many of the routes is poor and the lichen soaks up any moisture in the air. It REALLY needs some dedicated locals to go up regularly and give it a good scrub as well as climbing - should this really be left to outsiders who will might have driven 3+ hours?? I think not. Come on people, climb and clean up here, otherwise it's a waste of a superb crag.
Fiend - 09/Sep/08
Well worth the walk, but all fairly green and lichenous after the recent damp weather. Probably better later in the summer after a dry spell.
ed woods - 25/Jun/07
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Parallel Cracks Wall 
2Low Level Traverse
3Extended Traverse
4Easy Cave
M 5
5Stomach Traverses
D 11
HVS 5b 2
f5 2
8RubberneckHVS 5b 8
9Dark Passagef6A  
10On Edge
f6A 1
11Left Parallel CrackVD 49
12The Wall
f5+ 3
13Central Parallel CrackVD 52
14Smooth Wall
f5 3
15Limbof5+ *12
16Arete-shunE1 5b 9
17Right Parallel CrackVD 30
18Little Idif5 27
19Big Daddyf6C 14
f5+ 5
 East Buttress 
22Pete's PloyE2 5b *1
23PlumblineE5 6a ***3
24The Judas HoleE5 6a **2
25Pendulum DirectVS 4c **30
26PendulumVS 4c ***99
27Hanging ChimneyS 4b *4
28Billy BiscuitE5 6a ***1
29Lapse of ReasonE5 6a * 
30Easter GroovesE2 5b *3
31Ginger Snap
HVS 5b  
32Easter Bunny
HVS 4c  
 First Pinnacle 
34Verbal AbuseE2 5c  
35Lupino Lanef8A  
36Baluster CrackHVS 5b ***18
37Baluster Crack Variation Finish
HVS 5b  
38The SandriderE3 5c ***1
39CastawayE6 6a ** 
40The Trouser LegsE2 5c ***15
41The Trouser Legs Direct Start
E2 5c  
42Brown Trousers
E2 5c 1
43AgapeE6 6a  
44Easter CrackVD 8
45E Star
HVS 5a  
46Platform Route
VD 4
47Tea Break Wall
48Coffee Time
MVS 4b  
49First Pinnacle Traverse
E2 5c  
 Intermediate Buttress 
51Lazy Afternoon
E2 5b  
52FelixVS 5a 1
53PussyfootVS 5a 1
54CatwalkVD 8
55Index Breaker
56OctopusE3 6b *2
57ReiverE7 6c **2
58Smarty PantsE2 5c **8
59Half Minute CrackVS 5a **3
60Chasing Sheep
E3 6b  
61One Boot CrackVS 5a * 
M 4
 Second Pinnacle 
64LaybackVD 8
65The NarkVS 4c 4
66Dawes' RouteE5 6c * 
67The SquealerE2 5c  
68Scoop CrackHS 4b *37
69Cat's WhiskersHVS 5b *8
70Hot BricksE1 5c  
71East WallS 4a 4
72Sunny SundayE2 5c  
73Crocodile AreteE7 6c ***1
74Ivan Dobskyf8A+ *** 
75Old Man RiverE4 6a * 
76Honeymoon CrackE3 6a ***2
77Trial SeperationE4 6b ** 
78Rock and Rolll StarE5 6a * 
79Candle in the WindE3 5c ***4
80Gates of EdenE2 5c **10
81Paradise LostE5 6b ** 
82Borstal BoyE1 5b  
83The CrescentS 4b *42
84Crescent WallVS 4b **55
85Wide Eyed and LeglessE4 5c * 
 West Buttress 
87Cave CrackVS 4c  
88First Among EqualsE6 6b ***1
89Ravensheugh CrackHVS 5a ***64
90Check out Me Tyresf8A  
91Check Out Me Pipes
f7C+ ** 
92Childhood's EndE4 6a ***11
93Wild West ShowHVS 5a ***36
94RedskinE3 5b * 
95Hang em' HighE5 6a * 
96Sitting BullE3 5b  
97BuckskinVS 4c **9
98Moccasin SlabHVS 5a *19
 Bonneville and Beyond 
100BonnevilleE3 6c * 
101Penfoldf7B+ * 
102T.CE3 5c  
103MoleS 4a *8
104Just ArrestedE2 5b  
105Just IceE3 6a 1
106On the Arete
107Out of the Gully
108Out On The Wall GullyD 3
109OverpoweredE5 6c  
110Overpowered (start only)f7A 1
111Underpoweredf7A *1
112Pink LaneE1 5b *4
113Facing FactsE2 5c  
114Little LearnerVS 5a **30
115Bede CrackS 4a 20
116GreaseE4 6a *3
117Grease Direct
E4 6b  
118MimicE3 5c  
119St Cuthbert's CrackVS 5a *9
120The Duergar
f7A+ 7
121Slab CornerVD 4
122Zig Zag Slab Route 1
S 4
123Zig Zag Slab Route 2
S 2
 Capstan Rock 
125Capstan Full Strength
E2 5c  
126Capstan Crack
127Funeral for a Friend
E4 6a  
128The Convict
E2 5b 1
 Heather Slab 
130Heather Slab
M 5
131The One That Got Away
VS 5a  
 Plumber Buttress 
133Green Gully
134Steeple Crack
VS 5a  
135The ApprenticeE4 6b * 
136Debbie McGeef7A+ 1
137The MagicianE7 7a ** 
138The PlumberE5 6b * 
139The Sewer
140Soil Stack Crack
VS 5a * 
S 5
 Trident buttress 
VS 5a  
144Trident Chimney
VD 3
 Far West Buttress 
146FutilityVS 4c *4
 The Boulders 
149Right Arete
150Smooth Slab
151Heptagon Boulder Traverse
152Split Block Traverse
153Featherweights Flake
154Scoop RH
VD 1
155Little Crack
S 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer punkpunk