Climbs 150
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 390m a.s.l
Faces N

Into the light and a long way to go. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A superb crag on top quality sandstone. It suffers from insufficient traffic, presumably because of its' exposed position and the length of the walk in. Lots of hard stuff to go at.

Approach notes

Best approached by Mountain Bike. Park in the forestry commission car park between Lordenshaw and Great Tosson. Follow the forestry roads west to beneath Simonside. A track leads off West to a stile. The crag is 100 mtrs away.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
Great sunny day out, I will be back. The lichen was dry today, but produced slippery ball bearings under hands and feet - needs more traffic (or bring a soft brush). We cleaned most of the starred VSes on lead, so they should be better for the rest of 2009 at least.
jonny taylor - 12/Sep/09
A very attractive crag in a very attractive location (a `long' walk-in is no excuse!). However, I found the grading extremely stiff.
stuaart - 21/Jun/09
Why have some of the routes on here been given boulder problem grades when they are 8/9m high??
Ben Gilbert - 15/Apr/09
Needs and deserves a lot more attention. Some of the best and most impressive lines in Northumberland, probably the most classics per crag in the county, and all in a stunning location. Even the walk isn't too bad. BUT the condition of many of the routes is poor and the lichen soaks up any moisture in the air. It REALLY needs some dedicated locals to go up regularly and give it a good scrub as well as climbing - should this really be left to outsiders who will might have driven 3+ hours?? I think not. Come on people, climb and clean up here, otherwise it's a waste of a superb crag.
Fiend - 09/Sep/08
Well worth the walk, but all fairly green and lichenous after the recent damp weather. Probably better later in the summer after a dry spell.
ed woods - 25/Jun/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Parallel Cracks Wall 
2Low Level Traverse
-
f6B  
3Extended Traverse
-
f7A  
4Easy Cave
-
M 5
5Stomach Traverses
-
D 11
6Amanda
-
HVS 5b 2
7Incident
-
f5 2
8RubberneckHVS 5b 8
9Dark Passagef6A  
10On Edge
-
f6A 1
11Left Parallel CrackVD 49
12The Wall
-
f5+ 3
13Central Parallel CrackVD 52
14Smooth Wall
-
f5 3
15Limbof5+ *12
16Arete-shunE1 5b 9
17Right Parallel CrackVD 30
18Little Idif5 27
19Big Daddyf6C 14
20Amin
-
f5+ 5
 East Buttress 
22Pete's PloyE2 5b *1
23PlumblineE5 6a ***3
24The Judas HoleE5 6a **2
25Pendulum DirectVS 4c **30
26PendulumVS 4c ***99
27Hanging ChimneyS 4b *4
28Billy BiscuitE5 6a ***1
29Lapse of ReasonE5 6a * 
30Easter GroovesE2 5b *3
31Ginger Snap
-
HVS 5b  
32Easter Bunny
-
HVS 4c  
 First Pinnacle 
34Verbal AbuseE2 5c  
35Lupino Lanef8A  
36Baluster CrackHVS 5b ***18
37Baluster Crack Variation Finish
-
HVS 5b  
38The SandriderE3 5c ***1
39CastawayE6 6a ** 
40The Trouser LegsE2 5c ***15
41The Trouser Legs Direct Start
-
E2 5c  
42Brown Trousers
-
E2 5c 1
43AgapeE6 6a  
44Easter CrackVD 8
45E Star
-
HVS 5a  
46Platform Route
-
VD 4
47Tea Break Wall
-
MVS 3
48Coffee Time
-
MVS 4b  
49First Pinnacle Traverse
-
E2 5c  
 Intermediate Buttress 
51Lazy Afternoon
-
E2 5b  
52FelixVS 5a 1
53PussyfootVS 5a 1
54CatwalkVD 8
55Index Breaker
-
f6A+  
56OctopusE3 6b *2
57ReiverE7 6c **2
58Smarty PantsE2 5c **8
59Half Minute CrackVS 5a **3
60Chasing Sheep
-
E3 6b  
61One Boot CrackVS 5a * 
62Backdoor
-
M 4
 Second Pinnacle 
64LaybackVD 8
65The NarkVS 4c 4
66Dawes' RouteE5 6c * 
67The SquealerE2 5c  
68Scoop CrackHS 4b *37
69Cat's WhiskersHVS 5b *8
70Hot BricksE1 5c  
71East WallS 4a 4
72Sunny SundayE2 5c  
73Crocodile AreteE7 6c ***1
74Ivan Dobskyf8A+ *** 
75Old Man RiverE4 6a * 
76Honeymoon CrackE3 6a ***2
77Trial SeperationE4 6b ** 
78Rock and Rolll StarE5 6a * 
79Candle in the WindE3 5c ***4
80Gates of EdenE2 5c **10
81Paradise LostE5 6b ** 
82Borstal BoyE1 5b  
83The CrescentS 4b *42
84Crescent WallVS 4b **55
85Wide Eyed and LeglessE4 5c * 
 West Buttress 
87Cave CrackVS 4c  
88First Among EqualsE6 6b ***1
89Ravensheugh CrackHVS 5a ***64
90Check out Me Tyresf8A  
91Check Out Me Pipes
-
f7C+ ** 
92Childhood's EndE4 6a ***11
93Wild West ShowHVS 5a ***36
94RedskinE3 5b * 
95Hang em' HighE5 6a * 
96Sitting BullE3 5b  
97BuckskinVS 4c **9
98Moccasin SlabHVS 5a *19
 Bonneville and Beyond 
100BonnevilleE3 6c * 
101Penfoldf7B+ * 
102T.CE3 5c  
103MoleS 4a *8
104Just ArrestedE2 5b  
105Just IceE3 6a 1
106On the Arete
-
f4  
107Out of the Gully
-
f4  
108Out On The Wall GullyD 3
109OverpoweredE5 6c  
110Overpowered (start only)f7A 1
111Underpoweredf7A *1
112Pink LaneE1 5b *4
113Facing FactsE2 5c  
114Little LearnerVS 5a **30
115Bede CrackS 4a 20
116GreaseE4 6a *3
117Grease Direct
-
E4 6b  
118MimicE3 5c  
119St Cuthbert's CrackVS 5a *9
120The Duergar
-
f7A+ 7
121Slab CornerVD 4
122Zig Zag Slab Route 1
-
S 4
123Zig Zag Slab Route 2
-
S 2
 Capstan Rock 
125Capstan Full Strength
-
E2 5c  
126Capstan Crack
-
VS  
127Funeral for a Friend
-
E4 6a  
128The Convict
-
E2 5b 1
 Heather Slab 
130Heather Slab
-
M 5
131The One That Got Away
-
VS 5a  
 Plumber Buttress 
133Green Gully
-
D  
134Steeple Crack
-
VS 5a  
135The ApprenticeE4 6b * 
136Debbie McGeef7A+ 1
137The MagicianE7 7a ** 
138The PlumberE5 6b * 
139The Sewer
-
S  
140Soil Stack Crack
-
VS 5a * 
141Badger
-
S 5
 Trident buttress 
143Neptune
-
VS 5a  
144Trident Chimney
-
VD 3
 Far West Buttress 
146FutilityVS 4c *4
 The Boulders 
148Traverse
-
f6C  
149Right Arete
-
f5+  
150Smooth Slab
-
f5+  
151Heptagon Boulder Traverse
-
f6B  
152Split Block Traverse
-
f6C  
153Featherweights Flake
-
f6C  
154Scoop RH
-
VD 1
155Little Crack
-
S 1

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