Climbs 493
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

Himmelswillen (VS 4c) the must-do classic route of Wharncliffe © http://Climbers.net

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
My local crag I'm slowly working my way through every route left to right
Wsdconst - 09/May/15
Excellent crag for beginners and experienced climbers
danrhodes1987 - 12/May/09
Good crag. If your looking for a bit of solitude you may just find it here, except for the motocross bikes and the noise of the road.
Jonathan T - 02/May/04
Wharncliffe is a great crag and provides a wonderful evenings soloing.
Michael birkby - 04/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Deepcar crags 
2Tailor's CrackVD 27
3Gallipoli RockVS 4c *33
4InsurrectionHVS 5b 14
5Face ClimbVS 4c 42
6The View From HQHVD 4a 14
7Gallipoli ChimneyM 8
8Heather GroovesD 13
9Sore throatV1 11
10Sore thumbV0+ 14
11Sore backV0 15
 Prow Rock Area 
13Old Crock Around the BlockV3 27
14SteeltownE5 6b *3
15The MoireE5 6b * 
16The MoireV6 *2
17QuerpE3 6b 3
18Querp Direct StartV1 4
19Outside RouteS 4a *165
20The NoseVS 4c *154
21The Tip Test
-
E3 6b *2
22Inside RouteD *174
23Inside EdgeHVS 5b 51
24Left Prow ChimneyD 8
25Prow to ProwS 4a 13
26Right Prow ChimneyD 9
27Green AreteVS 4c 15
28Exonian's ReturnHVS 5c 13
29ProudE1 5c 2
30Teresa's SlabHVD 4a 45
31Typical Wharncliffe LandingV2 9
32Pylon CornerD 103
33Pylon CrackVD 150
34Quern CrackS 4a 111
35Quern Crack Through Route/ Cave Inside Route
-
M 23
36Jimmy Puttrell is a LegendVS 4c 46
37Hamlet's ClimbHVD 4a *170
38Hamlet's Climb (Direct Finish)VS 4c 52
39Hamlet's Traverse
-
VS 4b 35
40Requiem of Hamlet's GhostE1 5b *69
41The Crack of DoomHS 4b *89
42DespairE2 5c 10
43Zig-zag ClimbD 83
44The Crack of DelightM 15
 Scarlett's Wall 
46Earth BluesE5 6b 1
47The direct finishE2 5c 1
48Scarlett's Wall AreteVS 4c *108
49Scarlett's ClimbHS 4c *150
50Scarlett's Edge (The Scarlett Letter)VS 4b 62
51Scarlett's ChimneyD 50
 Tensile Test 
53SuspenseVS 5b *151
54MelliciousE1 5c 11
55Tensile TestE1 5c *100
56Elastic Limit (direct start)
-
V2 9
57Elastic LimitE1 5c 47
58Elastic Limit (direct finish)
-
V4 7
59Forget-me-notHS 4a *234
60AbairE1 5b 15
61Blocky CornerM 5
62Handover ChimneyD 6
63Handover AreteVS 4c *167
64Handover GullyM 6
65Patricia's Wall
-
E1 5b 5
66Patricia's Wall (with arete)
-
VS 4c 2
67Cracked AreteVD 82
68Legover AreteVS 4c 22
69Monolith Crack/Foot and BackHVD 4a 22
70Mignon
-
VS 4c 6
71Reet PalVS 5a 3
 Mantelshelf Pillar 
73Mantelshelf PillarVS 4c *40
74The MantelshelfHS 4b *97
75Back and FootVD 86
 Photo Finish 
77Unnamed CornerVD 9
78Unnamed GrooveD 6
79Quicksilver
-
VS 5a 4
80More Fool youHVS 5b 3
81Rook ChimneyD *58
82Rook Chimney CavesD 7
83Letter-Box Buttress
-
VD 38
84Post HornHVS 4c *33
85Tears before Bedtime (left hand)
-
E2 5b 3
86Tears Before BedtimeE3 5c 6
87ReveilleE4 6a 6
88Curved BallsHS 4c 9
89Letter Box AreteVD 19
90The Girdle Traverse
-
S 4a 15
91Alisha's Slab
-
M 10
92Rusty Peg Arete
-
HD 7
93Blinkers
-
HD 9
94Easter Saturday
-
M 8
95Steps
-
M 11
96Struggle
-
S 4a 3
97Mantleshelf Slab Left
-
S 4a 6
98Mantelshelf Slab RightS 4a 19
99Mystery Mirror
-
HD 7
100Mystery Route
-
VD 9
101Cave Man
-
HVD 4a 4
102Chock-a-block
-
HD 4
103Corner Indirect
-
HS 4a 2
104Addy's AdditionHVS 5c 13
105Paraffin Jack
-
E1 5c 2
106The CornerVS 5a 37
107Slab and CornerHS 4b *167
108Photo FinishE1 5b *97
109Dead HeatE5 6a *10
110RenrockE1 5a *82
111Renrock ChimneyM 5
112Slabby Groove
-
HD 6
113Slabby Steps
-
HD 6
 Cheese Block Area 
115Black WallHS 4b *118
116Hard CheeseE1 5b 21
117Cheese CutD *233
118Cheese Cut CrackVD *256
119Cheese BlockHS 4b *118
120Not Cheese Cut Flake/Cheese Cut GrooveM 127
121Not Cheese Cut Flake Variation (right)
-
VD 10
122Cheese Cut Flake LeftHVD *137
123Cheese Cut FlakeHVD *275
124BLAN
-
D 8
125BRAN
-
D 7
126Bilberry Side Face
-
HS 4c 12
127Bilberry Face
-
S 40
128Bilberry Face Direct
-
HS 4b 23
129Mosh-pit ExileVS 5b 9
130Owen's DilemmaHVS 4c 18
131Imaginary Boulder ClimbVS 4c *71
132Authentic Boulder Climb
-
VS 4c 24
133Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 14
134Ocumen
-
HVS 5a 7
135Zigzag Slab
-
M 9
 Pete's Sake 
137Railway WallVS 4c *75
138Easy GrooveD 30
139Chimney GrooveVD *38
140Pinnacle AreteE1 5b *24
141Cumberland Crack/Cumberland GrooveVD *73
142Subterranean Blues
-
HVS 5a 11
143V GrooveVD 56
144Wheelspin WallVS 5a 8
145Wheelspin Wall RightVS 5b 7
146Cumberland TraverseS 3c 8
147Gully SideVS 5b 4
148North Side RouteHVS 5a 17
149BaalE2 5c 7
150Pete's SakeE1 5b *39
151Leftover Chimney/Thin ChimneyVD *35
152Overhanging ChimneyHVD 4a 38
153Ma'sonE2 5b 11
154Drums and KicksHVS 5b 3
155Overhanging CrackS 4b *58
156The By-PassVS 4c 9
157Pass ByHVS 5b 9
158En PassantE1 6b 1
159Passerine
-
V7 1
160Split ChimneyVD 49
161SplitterE1 5b *5
162Split Chimney WallHVS 5b *29
163Delta
-
HS 4a 7
 Great Buttress 
165Omega Rib
-
VS 5a 6
166Omega Chimney
-
D 9
167Alpha Arete StartD 33
168Alpha CrackD *363
169Alpha Plus, Beta MinusVD *22
170Beta PlusHS 4a 15
171Beta Crack Left Hand FinishVD 12
172Beta CrackS 4a **701
173TrapezeHS 4b *38
174TrapeziumE1 5b *123
175The Great Chimney (inside route)
-
D 46
176The Great ChimneyD *69
177Great Chimney CrackS 4a 69
178Thrown AwayE2 5c *41
179Great Buttress AreteE1 5b ***392
180Great ButtressVS 4c *259
181Just A MinuteE1 5b *81
182RomulusVD *316
183RemusS 4a *432
184Fly WallHS 4a 263
185Fly Wall GullyM 10
186Central Traverse
-
HS 4b 10
187Gold LeafHVS 5b *31
188Leaf ButtressVS 4c *77
189Leaf that crack aloneVS 5a 5
190Black Slab Left ChimneyD 4a 5
191Chimney and Crack
-
HS 4b 10
192The Warp
-
VS 4b 8
 Puttrell's Progress 
194Black Slab Chimney
-
HD 10
195Black Slab LeftHVD 4a *401
196Black Slab CentreVD *508
197Black Slab RightM **412
198Black Slab Right (direct start)
-
VD 4a 88
199Black FingerE3 5c 9
200Diamond WhiteE3 5c 1
201Anzio Breakout/PilgrimageE5 6b *1
202Puttrell's ProgressS 4a **654
203The FlueHVD *90
204The Flue DirectM 10
205Helping HandE1 5c *35
206Monolith CleftM 5
207As You Like ItVD *125
208Black CrackHVD *77
209Beyond the Pale
-
HVS 5b 5
210Black CapE2 6a 13
211LedgerHVD 3
212CorkerS 4b 4
213Corker wall 1HD 3
214Corker wall 2HD 3
215Corker wall 3HVD 4b 2
 Twin Pillars 
217Little FellowE2 5b 5
218BolsterE1 5b *12
219First Pillar Route 1
-
HVS 5a 4
220First Pillar Route 2E1 5a 9
221Summer LightningE1 5b 12
222Flake ClimbVS 4c *39
223SchardE2 5b *13
224The ElfHVS 5a 2
 The Blue Defile 
226Dilemma Roof
-
V0+ 5
227Dilemma Elminate Wall (left)V0 2
228DilemmaVS 4c 14
229Dilemma Elminate Wall (right)V4 2
230Christa's ChimneyM 8
231Christa's Twin
-
HD 15
232Defile LeftHS 4b 26
233Brand New NothingE4 6a 1
234The Blue DefileVS 4b **36
235BlasphemyE4 6b *3
236Defile ChimneyD 3
237DuplicateE1 5b *7
238Groovy
-
HVD 7
 Himmelswillen 
240SidewinderHS 4b 35
241Frigging SawE3 6a 1
242FrontsiderVS 5a 4
243HimmelswillenVS 4c ***855
244Serrated EdgeE1 5b *42
245TeufelswegD *134
246Y.M.C.A. CrackVD *40
247Dragon's HoardE6 6b *6
248Cardinal's TreasureE4 6b *5
249Banana WallE3 6a **107
250The Tall and The Short of ItE4 6a 5
251Two Tier Climb
-
S 4a 6
 Hell Gate Area 
253Tower FaceHS 4b ***850
254Down to EarthE4 5c *9
255On the AirE5 6a **17
256Journey into FreedomE7 6b * 
257Seconds OutE5 6b *1
258Pointy Block Problem
-
V5 15
259Hell Gate GullyM *103
260News at ZenE3 5c *6
261Desolation AngelE6 6b ***48
262Hell GateVD **302
263Hell gate VariationVD 3c **2
264Gavel NeeseE2 5b *75
265LuciferE2 5c *30
266Hell Gate CrackHS 4b **432
267Joie-De-VivreHVS 5c 8
268Primal VoidHVS 5a *18
269Ce ne Fait RienHVS 5b *16
270Well Now It IsE2 6a 5
271WheelbraceVS 4c 14
272Green GrooveD 22
273Footloose
-
VS 5a 6
274Pleasantry
-
HVD 14
275ObscenityHS 4b 53
276Falkway
-
VS 5b 4
277Amnesiac
-
HS 4c 2
278Amnesiac (direct finish)
-
HVS 5b 1
279Central Route DirectE1 5c 3
280Central Route
-
VS 4b 15
281Central Route (direct finish)HVS 5a 1
282Bay Wall
-
E2 5b 2
283Ganto's Axe
-
E2 5c *1
284Belle Vue chimneyM 7
285Problem Bulge
-
E1 5b 2
286Butterfly crackV5 1
 Holly Crack area 
288Hollyoaks Crack
-
VD 2
289Hollyoaks SlabHVS 5b 4
290Hollyoaks
-
VS 4b *6
291Holly CrackVD *18
292Holly ScoopE2 5c *4
293The Thorn
-
E1 5a 3
294Upwardly Mobile
-
E1 5a 2
295Unnamed Crack
-
S 4b 3
296Unnamed Crank
-
V4 1
297Wienie RoastHVS 5a 3
298Hanging RockHVS 5a *4
299Picnic
-
HS 4a 4
300Missed Me!
-
VS 4b 5
301Crack One
-
D 6
302Second Crack
-
VD 3
303Crack Three
-
VD 5
304Short Wall
-
V0 2
305Mad as a Mad Thing
-
VS 4c 8
306A Moment of Madness
-
E1 5a 2
307Charred
-
VD 3
308Two Tree Trip
-
S 4a 3
309Footin Mouth
-
HVS 5a 2
310Too Wide for Some
-
S 2
311Bring Back the Birch
-
HVS 5a 2
312Notice Board Left Hand Buttress
-
VS 4c 2
313Notice Board Slab
-
HS 4a 3
314Lundy Calling
-
E1 5b 1
315Awkward Finish
-
VS 4b 3
316Just Commit
-
E1 5a *2
317Pentovis
-
D 8
318Rib Tickler
-
HS 4a 4
319Paper Birch
-
E1 5b 2
320Nardil
-
E3 6a 4
321Body BlowE1 5b 1
 Long John's stride 
323October ClimbS 4a 30
324October Arete OriginalHVS 5a *29
325October AreteE2 5c **43
326Autumn WallE4 6a ***53
327Deepcar Named DesireE5 6b 1
328EquinoxE3 6a *3
329Chockstone ChimneyVD *28
330Tiered Pillar
-
HVS 5a 4
331V-ChimneyVD 23
332V for Victory
-
E1 5a 1
333Waxing Lyrical
-
VS 4b 6
334The Candle SnufferS 4b 23
335Long John's OrdinaryS 4a *16
336Vapona
-
E2 5c 1
337Spider CracksVS 5a 7
338Grammarian's ProgressVS 4c **64
339Grammarianís DirectHVS 5a *1
340GwynE3 5c *15
341Grammarians Face VariantE2 5b **1
342Grammarian's FaceE1 5b *19
343Long John's EliminateE2 5b **17
344CannaeE2 5b *4
345Long John's Super DirectE3 5c *2
346Long John's Short Chimney
-
VD 6
347Impishf6C *12
348Imp Wallf6A+ 7
349Long ChimneyD *38
350Long Chimney Variation
-
VD *9
351InclusionE1 5b *7
352Richard's RevengeVS 4c **200
353Lord of the Dance
-
E3 6a  
354Face DanceE4 6a 3
355Lincoln CrackHVD 4a **122
356Long John's Aretef6B *6
357Big Bird
-
HS 4b 5
358Erganweaself6A *3
 The central Section (upper tier) 
360I Like It DirtyV2 1
361Harrison's Half HourVS 5b 2
362Puttrell and Watson's RouteS 4b *19
363Greenwood Side
-
VS 5a 2
364Little Wing
-
E4 6a *2
 Holly Route area 
366ChangelingE2 6a *1
367S.M.O.E2 5c 3
368MarkE2 5b *2
369Holly RouteD 6
370EmmaE1 5c 2
371Chimney and CrackVD 5
372La ManchaE2 6a 1
373Spanish CaravanE1 5c 1
374Same RainHVS 5a 1
375ContemporaryHVS 5a *1
376AntiqueE2 5c 2
377TraditionalD 10
378Hanging ChimneyS 4b 9
379Gone for a BurtonVD *7
380BillD 10
381BenD 8
382Big CornerVD 7
383Mr Mojo Risin'E5 6a **1
384Easy GullyD 3
385Ridge ClimbHS 4b 2
386Just a Little BitE2 5b 1
387Rainbow Crack
-
D 6
388Corner Climb
-
VD 2
389Crack and Wall
-
S 1
390Trouser Browser
-
HS 4a 1
391Fizz
-
VS 4b 1
392Even Chance
-
HVS 5b 1
393Long Odds
-
E5 6b  
394Toss Up
-
E5 6a * 
395Chancer Wall
-
S 4a 2
396Chancer
-
VS 4c 2
397Chancer Crack
-
D 2
 Far South 
 Cascade Buttress 
400Cascade ClimbVS 5b *3
401Cascade Climb VariationHS 4a *2
402Flying AngelE1 5b *7
403Fountain of Youth
-
E2 5b  
404Watson's CrackVS 4c *15
405Spring TideE2 6b 2
406BedrockE6 6b  
407Puttrell's CrackVD 11
408Pocket Buttress DirectE5 6a *2
409Pocket ButtressVS 4b *15
410StinkpitE2 6a 1
411Deep ChimneyD *10
412Deep Chimney VariationD 2
413CadenceE1 5b *4
414Penis Town
-
E1 5c 2
415First Clean Arete
-
HS 4b 1
416Envy
-
S 4a 1
417The George Formby Appreciation Society
-
E2 5c  
 Outlook Boulders 
419Slab and the Beanstalkf6A+ 2
420Sneaky Little Fingersf7A *6
421Pixie's Aretef4+ *17
422Lembasf6C+ *5
423Lembas Aretef6A  
424Kim Spanf7A *3
425Dirty Rooff6B 2
426Link Upf6A+ *4
427Hard Mantelf6B 1
428Outlook Rooff6A **8
429Pete's Routef5 5
430Hard StartV7  
431Slappy MovesV3 2
432Similar PocketsV3 1
433PocketsV3 2
434Pockets (sit start)
-
V6  
 the bass rock 
436Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 1
437Sleight of Hand
-
HVS 5b 1
438This Year's Model
-
E5 6a  
439Andrew
-
HVS 5a 2
440Harvey
-
S 4a 2
441Mind Game
-
E1 5a 2
442Split Decision
-
E1 5b 1
443Split Decision lefthand finishE1 5c  
444Norwand
-
HVS 5b 3
445Byne's RouteS 4a **23
446Rossiter's RouteHVS 5b 3
447Scarlett's CrackVS 5a *31
448Bass Relief
-
HVS 5b 3
449Brooks' RouteHVS 5a *19
450Dorenuts
-
E1 5a 2
451Southern Route
-
S 4a 6
452Top Heavy
-
VS 4c 2
 Lodge Buttresses 
454Blu Wig Sheep
-
f5 1
455Fishboy
-
V6 1
456Jellyeyes left arete
-
V2 1
457Jellyeyes
-
V8 1
458Jellyeyes (with undercut)
-
V6  
459Jellyeyes right groove
-
V1 1
460The Arete
-
V3 1
461The Bear Pit
-
V8  
462Easy Aretef3 2
463Dragon Slayerf7A+ **17
464The Skylight ClimbM *6
465The Dragon's Denf6A+ **28
466Big Flakef5 9
467Sweet Movef7B * 
468Jorgef7B **2
469Jorge Easyf6B *8
470Jorge Jrf7A *3
471Crouching Tigerf7A+ *1
472Bluntedf7A *4
473Blunted (no footblock)V7 4
474Blunted (high start)
-
V4 2
475Sweet Releasef7C+ *1
476PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 14
-
f3 4
477PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 13
-
f3 3
478PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 12
-
f3 6
479Famine Cracks
-
HS 4a 3
480Ogilvie's CornerHVS 5c *7
481Ogilvie's Directf6B+ *5
482Curvaceousf7A+ *1
483Ogilvie's Slabf5+ * 
484Middle Way
-
E1 6a **1
485NightjarE3 5c *2
486Angus
-
HVS 5a 1
487Lodge Buttress DirectVS 4b *8
488Opportunist
-
E2 5c 2
 Ewden Buttress 
490Clean Hands Mick
-
E1 5c 1
491Clean Hands Mick Startf6A+ 2
492WindfallE2 5c *1
493PDB 6. Windfall startf5 2
494Ewden EdgeVS 4c *4
495Ewden WallVS 4c *4
496Crazy Legs Cranef6B 2
497The Parson's Finchf7B *2
498PDB The Slab Problem 1
-
f4 2
499PDB The Slab Problem 2
-
f4+ 2
500PDB The Slab Problem 3
-
f3 2
501Cockyxf6A *1
502Pass OnVS 5a 1
503One MoreV1 1
504Ladder Climb LeftD 2
505Ladder ClimbD 2
506Ladder Chimney LeftM 3
507BiffoS 4a 2
508Ladder Chimney RightM 2
509Wobbly BlockVD 3c 3
510Wobbly Block LeftD 2
511Biffo ASreteM 2
512Beat the Barn DoorE1 5b 2
513Birch Tree RibS 4a 2
514Dinosaur Egg ArÍteV2 **2
515Dinosaur Egg ArÍte sit startV3+ *1
516Eternally Doomed OptimistV3 2
517Handover Wall *S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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