Climbs 497
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

Himmelswillen (VS 4c) the must-do classic route of Wharncliffe © http://Climbers.net

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
My local crag I'm slowly working my way through every route left to right
Wsdconst - 09/May/15
Excellent crag for beginners and experienced climbers
danrhodes1987 - 12/May/09
Good crag. If your looking for a bit of solitude you may just find it here, except for the motocross bikes and the noise of the road.
Jonathan T - 02/May/04
Wharncliffe is a great crag and provides a wonderful evenings soloing.
Michael birkby - 04/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Deepcar crags 
2Tailor's CrackVD 28
3Gallipoli RockVS 4c *34
4InsurrectionHVS 5b 14
5Face ClimbVS 4c 46
6The View From HQHVD 4a 14
7Gallipoli ChimneyM 9
8Heather GroovesD 14
9Sore throatV1 11
10Sore thumbV0+ 16
11Sore backV0 18
 Prow Rock Area 
13Old Crock Around the BlockV3 31
14Beat the Barn DoorE1 5b 2
15SteeltownE5 6b *3
16The MoireE5 6b *2
17The MoireV6 *2
18QuerpE3 6b 3
19Querp Direct StartV1 4
20Outside RouteS 4a *167
21The NoseVS 4c *159
22The Tip Test
-
E3 6b *2
23Inside RouteD *177
24Inside EdgeHVS 5b 52
25Left Prow ChimneyD 8
26Prow to ProwS 4a 14
27Right Prow ChimneyD 9
28Green AreteVS 4c 15
29Exonian's ReturnHVS 5c 13
30ProudE1 5c 2
31Teresa's SlabHVD 4a 45
32Typical Wharncliffe LandingV2 10
33Pylon CornerD 103
34Pylon CrackVD 154
35Quern CrackS 4a 114
36Quern Crack Through Route/ Cave Inside Route
-
M 23
37Jimmy Puttrell is a LegendVS 4c 48
38Hamlet's ClimbHVD 4a *173
39Hamlet's Climb (Direct Finish)VS 4c 53
40Hamlet's Traverse
-
VS 4b 38
41Requiem of Hamlet's GhostE1 5b *69
42The Crack of DoomHS 4b *91
43DespairE2 5c 10
44Zig-zag ClimbD 85
45The Crack of DelightM 16
46New Crock Around the Block *VS 5a **2
 Scarlett's Wall 
48Earth BluesE5 6b 1
49The direct finishE2 5c 1
50Scarlett's Wall AreteVS 4c *109
51Scarlett's ClimbHS 4c *157
52Scarlett's Edge (The Scarlett Letter)VS 4b 64
53Scarlett's ChimneyD 51
 Tensile Test 
55SuspenseVS 5b *153
56MelliciousE1 5c 12
57Tensile TestE1 5c *104
58Elastic Limit (direct start)
-
V2 9
59Elastic LimitE1 5c 47
60Elastic Limit (direct finish)
-
V4 7
61Forget-me-notHS 4a *241
62AbairE1 5b 16
63Blocky CornerM 6
64Handover ChimneyD 6
65Handover AreteVS 4c *168
66Handover GullyM 7
67Patricia's Wall
-
E1 5b 5
68Patricia's Wall (with arete)
-
VS 4c 2
69Cracked AreteVD 84
70Legover AreteVS 4c 22
71Monolith Crack/Foot and BackHVD 4a 22
72Mignon
-
VS 4c 6
73Reet PalVS 5a 3
 Mantelshelf Pillar 
75Mantelshelf PillarVS 4c *40
76The MantelshelfHS 4b *97
77Back and FootVD 90
 Photo Finish 
79Unnamed CornerVD 9
80Unnamed GrooveD 6
81Quicksilver
-
VS 5a 4
82More Fool youHVS 5b 3
83Rook ChimneyD *58
84Rook Chimney CavesD 8
85Letter-Box Buttress
-
VD 39
86Post HornHVS 4c *33
87Tears before Bedtime (left hand)
-
E2 5b 3
88Tears Before BedtimeE3 5c 6
89ReveilleE4 6a 6
90Curved BallsHS 4c 9
91Letter Box AreteVD 19
92The Girdle Traverse
-
S 4a 15
93Alisha's Slab
-
M 10
94Rusty Peg Arete
-
HD 7
95Blinkers
-
HD 10
96Easter Saturday
-
M 8
97Steps
-
M 11
98Struggle
-
S 4a 3
99Mantleshelf Slab Left
-
S 4a 6
100Mantelshelf Slab RightS 4a 19
101Mystery Mirror
-
HD 7
102Mystery Route
-
VD 9
103Cave Man
-
HVD 4a 4
104Chock-a-block
-
HD 4
105Corner Indirect
-
HS 4a 2
106Addy's AdditionHVS 5c 13
107Paraffin Jack
-
E1 5c 2
108The CornerVS 5a 37
109Slab and CornerHS 4b *175
110Photo FinishE1 5b *100
111Dead HeatE5 6a *10
112RenrockE1 5a *83
113Renrock ChimneyM 6
114Slabby Groove
-
HD 7
115Slabby Steps
-
HD 7
 Cheese Block Area 
117Black WallHS 4b *120
118Hard CheeseE1 5b 21
119Cheese CutD *237
120Cheese Cut CrackVD *263
121Cheese BlockHS 4b *118
122Not Cheese Cut Flake/Cheese Cut GrooveM 133
123Not Cheese Cut Flake Variation (right)
-
VD 10
124Cheese Cut Flake LeftHVD *141
125Cheese Cut FlakeHVD *282
126BLAN
-
D 8
127BRAN
-
D 7
128Bilberry Side Face
-
HS 4c 12
129Bilberry Face
-
S 43
130Bilberry Face Direct
-
HS 4b 24
131Mosh-pit ExileVS 5b 10
132Owen's DilemmaHVS 4c 18
133Imaginary Boulder ClimbVS 4c *78
134Authentic Boulder Climb
-
VS 4c 24
135Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 14
136Ocumen
-
HVS 5a 7
137Zigzag Slab
-
M 9
 Pete's Sake 
139Railway WallVS 4c *76
140Easy GrooveD 31
141Chimney GrooveVD *39
142Pinnacle AreteE1 5b *24
143Cumberland Crack/Cumberland GrooveVD *75
144Subterranean Blues
-
HVS 5a 11
145V GrooveVD 56
146Wheelspin WallVS 5a 8
147Wheelspin Wall RightVS 5b 7
148Cumberland TraverseS 3c 8
149Gully SideVS 5b 4
150North Side RouteHVS 5a 18
151BaalE2 5c 7
152Pete's SakeE1 5b *43
153Leftover Chimney/Thin ChimneyVD *36
154Overhanging ChimneyHVD 4a 38
155Ma'sonE2 5b 11
156Drums and KicksHVS 5b 4
157Overhanging CrackS 4b *58
158The By-PassVS 4c 9
159Pass ByHVS 5b 9
160En PassantE1 6b 1
161Passerine
-
V7 1
162Split ChimneyVD 52
163SplitterE1 5b *5
164Split Chimney WallHVS 5b *29
165Delta
-
HS 4a 7
 Great Buttress 
167Omega Rib
-
VS 5a 6
168Omega Chimney
-
D 9
169Alpha Arete StartD 35
170Alpha CrackD *382
171Alpha Plus, Beta MinusVD *22
172Beta PlusHS 4a 15
173Beta Crack Left Hand FinishVD 17
174Beta CrackS 4a **718
175TrapezeHS 4b *39
176TrapeziumE1 5b *128
177The Great Chimney (inside route)
-
D 49
178The Great ChimneyD *69
179Great Chimney CrackS 4a 69
180Thrown AwayE2 5c *42
181Great Buttress AreteE1 5b ***398
182Great ButtressVS 4c *265
183Just A MinuteE1 5b *85
184RomulusVD *326
185RemusS 4a *442
186Fly WallHS 4a 268
187Fly Wall GullyM 12
188Central Traverse
-
HS 4b 10
189Gold LeafHVS 5b *32
190Leaf ButtressVS 4c *81
191Leaf that crack aloneVS 5a 5
192Eternally Doomed OptimistV3 2
193One MoreV1 1
194Black Slab Left ChimneyD 4a 5
195Chimney and Crack
-
HS 4b 11
196The Warp
-
VS 4b 8
197Black Slab Chimney
-
HD 10
198Black Slab LeftHVD 4a *417
199Black Slab CentreVD *528
200Black Slab RightM **424
201Black Slab Right (direct start)
-
VD 4a 91
 Puttrell's Progress 
203Black FingerE3 5c 9
204Diamond WhiteE3 5c 1
205Anzio Breakout/PilgrimageE5 6b *1
206Puttrell's ProgressS 4a **676
207The FlueHVD *91
208The Flue DirectM 11
209Helping HandE1 5c *35
210Monolith CleftM 5
211As You Like ItVD *127
212Black CrackHVD *77
213Beyond the Pale
-
HVS 5b 5
214Black CapE2 6a 14
215LedgerHVD 4
216CorkerS 4b 4
217Corker wall 1HD 4
218Corker wall 2HD 4
219Corker wall 3HVD 4b 2
 Twin Pillars 
221Little FellowE2 5b 5
222BolsterE1 5b *12
223First Pillar Route 1
-
HVS 5a 4
224First Pillar Route 2E1 5a 9
225Summer LightningE1 5b 12
226Flake ClimbVS 4c *39
227SchardE2 5b *13
228The ElfHVS 5a 2
 The Blue Defile 
230Dilemma Roof
-
V0+ 5
231Dilemma Elminate Wall (left)V0 2
232DilemmaVS 4c 15
233Dilemma Elminate Wall (right)V4 2
234Christa's ChimneyM 9
235Christa's Twin
-
HD 17
236Defile LeftHS 4b 30
237Brand New NothingE4 6a 1
238The Blue DefileVS 4b **43
239BlasphemyE4 6b *4
240Defile ChimneyD 4
241DuplicateE1 5b *7
242Groovy
-
HVD 7
 Himmelswillen 
244SidewinderHS 4b 36
245Frigging SawE3 6a 1
246FrontsiderVS 5a 5
247HimmelswillenVS 4c ***876
248Serrated EdgeE1 5b *43
249TeufelswegD *137
250Y.M.C.A. CrackVD *52
251Dragon's HoardE6 6b *6
252Cardinal's TreasureE4 6b *5
253Banana WallE3 6a **112
254The Tall and The Short of ItE4 6a 5
255Two Tier Climb
-
S 4a 6
 Hell Gate Area 
257Dinosaur Egg ArêteV2 **2
258Dinosaur Egg Arête sit startV3+ *1
259Face Wallf6B 1
260Tower FaceHS 4b ***876
261Down to EarthE4 5c *9
262On the AirE5 6a **20
263Journey into FreedomE7 6b * 
264Seconds OutE5 6b *1
265Pointy Block Problem
-
V5 15
266Hell Gate GullyM *106
267News at ZenE3 5c *6
268Desolation AngelE6 6b ***49
269Hell GateVD **314
270Hell gate VariationVD 3c **2
271Gavel NeeseE2 5b *77
272LuciferE2 5c *30
273Hell Gate CrackHS 4b **446
274Joie-De-VivreHVS 5c 8
275Primal VoidHVS 5a *18
276Ce ne Fait RienHVS 5b *16
277Well Now It IsE2 6a 5
278WheelbraceVS 4c 14
279Green GrooveD 22
280Footloose
-
VS 5a 6
281Pleasantry
-
HVD 15
282ObscenityHS 4b 56
283Falkway
-
VS 5b 4
284Ladder Climb LeftD 4
285Ladder ClimbD 4
286Ladder ChimneyM 5
287Biffo AreteM 4
288BiffoS 4a 3
289Broken ChimneyM 4
290Amnesiac
-
HS 4c 2
291Amnesiac (direct finish)
-
HVS 5b 1
292Central Route DirectE1 5c 3
293Central Route
-
VS 4b 15
294Central Route (direct finish)HVS 5a 1
295Bay Wall
-
E2 5b 2
296Ganto's Axe
-
E2 5c *1
297Belle Vue chimneyM 7
298Problem Bulge
-
E1 5b 2
299Butterfly crackV5 1
 Holly Crack area 
301Hollyoaks Crack
-
VD 2
302Hollyoaks SlabHVS 5b 4
303Hollyoaks
-
VS 4b *6
304Holly CrackVD *20
305Holly ScoopE2 5c *4
306The Thorn
-
E1 5a 3
307Upwardly Mobile
-
E1 5a 2
308Unnamed Crack
-
S 4b 5
309Unnamed Crank
-
V4 1
310Wienie RoastHVS 5a 3
311Hanging RockHVS 5a *4
312Picnic
-
HS 4a 6
313Missed Me!
-
VS 4b 5
314Crack One
-
D 6
315Second Crack
-
VD 3
316Crack Three
-
VD 5
317Short Wall
-
V0 2
318Mad as a Mad Thing
-
VS 4c 8
319A Moment of Madness
-
E1 5a 2
320Charred
-
VD 3
321Two Tree Trip
-
S 4a 3
322Footin Mouth
-
HVS 5a 2
323Too Wide for Some
-
S 2
324Bring Back the Birch
-
HVS 5a 2
325Notice Board Left Hand Buttress
-
VS 4c 2
326Notice Board Slab
-
HS 4a 3
327Lundy Calling
-
E1 5b 1
328Awkward Finish
-
VS 4b 3
329Just Commit
-
E1 5a *2
330Pentovis
-
D 8
331Rib Tickler
-
HS 4a 4
332Paper Birch
-
E1 5b 2
333Nardil
-
E3 6a 4
334Body BlowE1 5b 1
 Long John's stride 
336Erosf6A 1
337October ClimbS 4a 30
338October Arete OriginalHVS 5a *29
339October AreteE2 5c **49
340Autumn WallE4 6a ***53
341Deepcar Named DesireE5 6b 1
342EquinoxE3 6a *3
343Chockstone ChimneyVD *28
344Tiered Pillar
-
HVS 5a 4
345V-ChimneyVD 23
346V for Victory
-
E1 5a 1
347Waxing Lyrical
-
VS 4b 6
348The Candle SnufferS 4b 23
349Long John's OrdinaryS 4a *16
350Vapona
-
E2 5c 1
351Spider CracksVS 5a 8
352Grammarian's ProgressVS 4c **74
353Grammarian’s DirectHVS 5a *1
354GwynE3 5c *17
355Grammarians Face VariantE2 5b **1
356Grammarian's FaceE1 5b *19
357Long John's EliminateE2 5b **17
358CannaeE2 5b *4
359Long John's Super DirectE3 5c *2
360Long John's Short Chimney
-
VD 6
361Impishf6C *12
362Imp Wallf6A+ 7
363Long ChimneyD *40
364Long Chimney Variation
-
VD *9
365InclusionE1 5b *8
366Richard's RevengeVS 4c **205
367Lord of the Dance
-
E3 6a  
368Face DanceE4 6a 3
369Lincoln CrackHVD 4a **126
370Long John's Aretef6B *6
371Big Bird
-
HS 4b 5
372Erganweaself6A *3
 The central Section (upper tier) 
374I Like It DirtyV2 1
375Harrison's Half HourVS 5b 2
376Puttrell and Watson's RouteS 4b *19
377Greenwood Side
-
VS 5a 2
378Birch Tree RibS 4a 2
379Little Wing
-
E4 6a *2
 Holly Route area 
381ChangelingE2 6a *1
382S.M.O.E2 5c 3
383MarkE2 5b *2
384Holly RouteD 6
385EmmaE1 5c 2
386Chimney and CrackVD 6
387La ManchaE2 6a 1
388Spanish CaravanE1 5c 1
389Same RainHVS 5a 1
390ContemporaryHVS 5a *1
391AntiqueE2 5c 2
392TraditionalD 10
393Hanging ChimneyS 4b 9
394Gone for a BurtonVD *7
395BillD 10
396BenD 8
397Big CornerVD 7
398Mr Mojo Risin'E5 6a **1
399Easy GullyD 3
400Ridge ClimbHS 4b 2
401Just a Little BitE2 5b 1
402Rainbow Crack
-
D 7
403Corner Climb
-
VD 2
404Crack and Wall
-
S 1
405Trouser Browser
-
HS 4a 1
406Fizz
-
VS 4b 1
407Even Chance
-
HVS 5b 1
408Long Odds
-
E5 6b  
409Toss Up
-
E5 6a * 
410Chancer Wall
-
S 4a 2
411Chancer
-
VS 4c 2
412Chancer Crack
-
D 2
 Far South 
 Cascade Buttress 
415Cascade ClimbVS 5b *3
416Cascade Climb VariationHS 4a *2
417Flying AngelE1 5b *7
418Fountain of Youth
-
E2 5b 1
419Watson's CrackVS 4c *16
420Spring TideE2 6b 2
421BedrockE6 6b  
422Puttrell's CrackVD 12
423Pocket Buttress DirectE5 6a *2
424Pocket ButtressVS 4b *19
425StinkpitE2 6a 1
426Deep ChimneyD *10
427Deep Chimney VariationD 2
428CadenceE1 5b *4
429Penis Town
-
E1 5c 2
430First Clean Arete
-
HS 4b 1
431Envy
-
S 4a 1
432The George Formby Appreciation Society
-
E2 5c  
 Outlook Boulders 
434Slab and the Beanstalkf6A+ 2
435Sneaky Little Fingersf7A *6
436Pixie's Aretef4+ *19
437Lembasf6C+ *6
438Lembas Aretef6A 1
439Kim Spanf7A *3
440Dirty Rooff6B 2
441Link Upf6A+ *6
442Hard Mantelf6B 1
443Outlook Rooff6A **9
444Pete's Routef5 5
445Hard StartV7  
446Slappy MovesV3 2
447Similar PocketsV3 1
448PocketsV3 2
449Pockets (sit start)
-
V6  
 the bass rock 
451Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 1
452Sleight of Hand
-
HVS 5b 1
453This Year's Model
-
E5 6a  
454Andrew
-
HVS 5a 2
455Harvey
-
S 4a 2
456Mind Game
-
E1 5a 3
457Split Decision
-
E1 5b 1
458Split Decision lefthand finishE1 5c  
459Norwand
-
HVS 5b 3
460Byne's RouteS 4a **27
461Rossiter's RouteHVS 5b 3
462Scarlett's CrackVS 5a *31
463Bass Relief
-
HVS 5b 3
464Brooks' RouteHVS 5a *19
465Dorenuts
-
E1 5a 2
466Southern Route
-
S 4a 6
467Top Heavy
-
VS 4c 2
 Lodge Buttresses 
469Blu Wig Sheep
-
f5 1
470Sushif6B  
471Fishboy
-
V6 1
472Jellyeyes left arete
-
V2 1
473Jellyeyes
-
V8 1
474Jellyeyes (with undercut)
-
V6  
475Jellyeyes right groove
-
V1 1
476The Arete
-
V3 1
477The Bear Pit
-
V8  
478Easy Aretef3 2
479Dragon Slayerf7A+ **18
480The Skylight ClimbM *6
481The Dragon's Denf6A+ **30
482Big Flakef5 10
483Sweet Movef7B * 
484Jorgef7B **2
485Jorge Easyf6B *10
486Jorge Jrf7A *4
487Crouching Tigerf7A+ *1
488Bluntedf7A *4
489Blunted (no footblock)V7 4
490Blunted (high start)
-
V4 3
491Sweet Releasef7C+ *1
492PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 14
-
f3 4
493PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 13
-
f3 3
494PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 12
-
f3 6
495Famine Cracks
-
HS 4a 3
496Ogilvie's CornerHVS 5c *7
497Ogilvie's Directf6B+ *5
498Curvaceousf7A+ *1
499Ogilvie's Slabf5+ * 
500Middle Way
-
E1 6a **1
501NightjarE3 5c *2
502Angus
-
HVS 5a 1
503Lodge Buttress DirectVS 4b *8
504Opportunist
-
E2 5c 2
 Ewden Buttress 
506Clean Hands Mick
-
E1 5c 1
507Clean Hands Mick Startf6A+ 2
508WindfallE2 5c *1
509PDB 6. Windfall startf5 2
510Ewden EdgeVS 4c *5
511Ewden WallVS 4c *5
512Crazy Legs Cranef6B 2
513The Parson's Finchf7B *2
514PDB The Slab Problem 1
-
f4 2
515PDB The Slab Problem 2
-
f4+ 2
516PDB The Slab Problem 3
-
f3 2
517Cockyxf6A *2
518Pass OnVS 5a 1
519Wobbly BlockVD 3c 3
520Wobbly Block LeftD 2
521Handover Wall *S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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