Climbs 497
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces W

Himmelswillen (VS 4c) the must-do classic route of Wharncliffe © http://Climbers.net

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
My local crag I'm slowly working my way through every route left to right
Wsdconst - 09/May/15
Excellent crag for beginners and experienced climbers
danrhodes1987 - 12/May/09
Good crag. If your looking for a bit of solitude you may just find it here, except for the motocross bikes and the noise of the road.
Jonathan T - 02/May/04
Wharncliffe is a great crag and provides a wonderful evenings soloing.
Michael birkby - 04/Sep/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Deepcar crags
2 Tailor's Crack VD 29
3 Gallipoli Rock VS 4c * 36
4 Insurrection HVS 5b 15
5 Face Climb VS 4c 47
6 The View From HQ HVD 4a 14
7 Gallipoli Chimney M 9
8 Heather Grooves D 14
9 Sore throat V1 11
10 Sore thumb V0+ 17
11 Sore back V0 19
  Prow Rock Area
13 Old Crock Around the Block V3 32
14 Beat the Barn Door E1 5b 2
15 Steeltown E5 6b * 3
16 The Moire E5 6b * 2
17 The Moire V6 *  
18 Querp E3 6b 4
19 Querp Direct Start V1 5c 4
20 Outside Route S 4a * 172
21 The Nose VS 4c * 163
22 The Tip Test
-
E3 6b * 2
23 Inside Route D * 182
24 Inside Edge HVS 5b 53
25 Left Prow Chimney D 9
26 Prow to Prow S 4a 14
27 Right Prow Chimney D 11
28 Green Arete VS 4c 15
29 Exonian's Return HVS 5c 13
30 Proud E1 5c 2
31 Teresa's Slab HVD 4a 49
32 Typical Wharncliffe Landing V2 11
33 Pylon Corner D 106
34 Pylon Crack VD 159
35 Quern Crack S 4a 120
36 Quern Crack Through Route/ Cave Inside Route
-
M 25
37 Jimmy Puttrell is a Legend VS 4c 51
38 Hamlet's Climb HVD 4a * 178
39 Hamlet's Climb (Direct Finish) VS 4c 54
40 Hamlet's Traverse
-
VS 4b 39
41 Requiem of Hamlet's Ghost E1 5b * 67
42 The Crack of Doom HS 4b * 103
43 Despair E2 5c 10
44 Zig-zag Climb D 87
45 The Crack of Delight M 17
46 New Crock Around the Block * VS 5a ** 2
  Scarlett's Wall
48 Earth Blues E5 6b 1
49 The direct finish E2 5c 1
50 Scarlett's Wall Arete VS 4c * 114
51 Scarlett's Climb HS 4c * 166
52 Scarlett's Edge (The Scarlett Letter) VS 4b 71
53 Scarlett's Chimney D 52
  Tensile Test
55 Suspense VS 5b * 157
56 Mellicious E1 5c 12
57 Tensile Test E1 5c * 106
58 Elastic Limit (direct start)
-
V2 6a 9
59 Elastic Limit E1 5c 50
60 Elastic Limit (direct finish)
-
V4 6a 7
61 Forget-me-not HS 4a * 248
62 Abair E1 5b 16
63 Blocky Corner M 6
64 Handover Chimney D 6
65 Handover Arete VS 4c * 179
66 Handover Gully M 7
67 Patricia's Wall
-
E1 5b 5
68 Patricia's Wall (with arete)
-
VS 4c 2
69 Cracked Arete VD 84
70 Legover Arete VS 4c 22
71 Monolith Crack/Foot and Back HVD 4a 23
72 Mignon
-
VS 4c 6
73 Reet Pal VS 5a 3
  Mantelshelf Pillar
75 Mantelshelf Pillar VS 4c * 41
76 The Mantelshelf HS 4b * 94
77 Back and Foot VD 89
  Photo Finish
79 Unnamed Corner VD 9
80 Unnamed Groove D 6
81 Quicksilver
-
VS 5a 4
82 More Fool you HVS 5b 3
83 Rook Chimney D * 59
84 Rook Chimney Caves D 8
85 Letter-Box Buttress
-
VD 39
86 Post Horn HVS 4c * 33
87 Tears before Bedtime (left hand)
-
E2 5b 3
88 Tears Before Bedtime E3 5c 6
89 Reveille E4 6a 6
90 Curved Balls HS 4c 11
91 Letter Box Arete VD 20
92 The Girdle Traverse
-
S 4a 15
93 Alisha's Slab
-
M 10
94 Rusty Peg Arete
-
HD 7
95 Blinkers
-
HD 10
96 Easter Saturday
-
M 8
97 Steps
-
M 11
98 Struggle
-
S 4a 3
99 Mantleshelf Slab Left
-
S 4a 6
100 Mantelshelf Slab Right S 4a 22
101 Mystery Mirror
-
HD 7
102 Mystery Route
-
VD 10
103 Cave Man
-
HVD 4a 4
104 Chock-a-block
-
HD 4
105 Corner Indirect
-
HS 4a 2
106 Addy's Addition HVS 5c 13
107 Paraffin Jack
-
E1 5c 2
108 The Corner VS 5a 37
109 Slab and Corner HS 4b * 179
110 Photo Finish E1 5b * 104
111 Dead Heat E5 6a * 10
112 Renrock E1 5a * 80
113 Renrock Chimney M 6
114 Slabby Groove
-
HD 7
115 Slabby Steps
-
HD 7
  Cheese Block Area
117 Black Wall HS 4b * 123
118 Hard Cheese E1 5b 22
119 Cheese Cut D * 249
120 Cheese Cut Crack VD * 273
121 Cheese Block HS 4b * 120
122 Not Cheese Cut Flake/Cheese Cut Groove M 138
123 Not Cheese Cut Flake Variation (right)
-
VD 10
124 Cheese Cut Flake Left HVD * 145
125 Cheese Cut Flake HVD * 292
126 BLAN
-
D 8
127 BRAN
-
D 7
128 Bilberry Side Face
-
HS 4c 12
129 Bilberry Face
-
S 43
130 Bilberry Face Direct
-
HS 4b 24
131 Mosh-pit Exile VS 5b 10
132 Owen's Dilemma HVS 4c 18
133 Imaginary Boulder Climb VS 4c * 78
134 Authentic Boulder Climb
-
VS 4c 24
135 Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 14
136 Ocumen
-
HVS 5a 7
137 Zigzag Slab
-
M 9
  Pete's Sake
139 Railway Wall VS 4c * 83
140 Easy Groove D 36
141 Chimney Groove VD * 43
142 Pinnacle Arete E1 5b * 25
143 Cumberland Crack/Cumberland Groove VD * 81
144 Subterranean Blues
-
HVS 5a 11
145 V Groove VD 57
146 Wheelspin Wall VS 5a 8
147 Wheelspin Wall Right VS 5b 7
148 Cumberland Traverse S 3c 8
149 Gully Side VS 5b 4
150 North Side Route HVS 5a 18
151 Baal E2 5c 7
152 Pete's Sake E1 5b * 42
153 Leftover Chimney/Thin Chimney VD * 36
154 Overhanging Chimney HVD 4a 38
155 Ma'son E2 5b 11
156 Drums and Kicks HVS 5b 4
157 Overhanging Crack S 4b * 57
158 The By-Pass VS 4c 9
159 Pass By HVS 5b 9
160 En Passant E1 6b 1
161 Passerine
-
V7 6c 1
162 Split Chimney VD 52
163 Splitter E1 5b * 5
164 Split Chimney Wall HVS 5b * 30
165 Delta
-
HS 4a 7
  Great Buttress
167 Omega Rib
-
VS 5a 6
168 Omega Chimney
-
D 9
169 Alpha Arete Start D 35
170 Alpha Crack D * 397
171 Alpha Plus, Beta Minus VD * 22
172 Beta Plus HS 4a 15
173 Beta Crack Left Hand Finish VD 18
174 Beta Crack S 4a ** 743
175 Trapeze HS 4b * 38
176 Trapezium E1 5b * 128
177 The Great Chimney (inside route)
-
D 49
178 The Great Chimney D * 70
179 Great Chimney Crack S 4a 70
180 Thrown Away E2 5c * 40
181 Great Buttress Arete E1 5b *** 413
182 Great Buttress VS 4c * 276
183 Just A Minute E1 5b * 90
184 Romulus VD * 337
185 Remus S 4a * 450
186 Fly Wall HS 4a 273
187 Fly Wall Gully M 11
188 Central Traverse
-
HS 4b 10
189 Gold Leaf HVS 5b * 32
190 Leaf Buttress VS 4c * 82
191 Leaf that crack alone VS 5a 5
192 Eternally Doomed Optimist V3 6a 2
193 One More V1 1
194 Black Slab Left Chimney D 4a 5
195 Chimney and Crack
-
HS 4b 11
196 The Warp
-
VS 4b 8
197 Black Slab Chimney
-
HD 10
198 Black Slab Left HVD 4a * 429
199 Black Slab Centre VD * 539
200 Black Slab Right M ** 438
201 Black Slab Right (direct start)
-
VD 4a 93
  Puttrell's Progress
203 Black Finger E3 5c 9
204 Diamond White E3 5c 1
205 Anzio Breakout/Pilgrimage E5 6b * 1
206 Puttrell's Progress S 4a ** 703
207 The Flue HVD * 92
208 The Flue Direct M 11
209 Helping Hand E1 5c * 36
210 Monolith Cleft M 5
211 As You Like It VD * 133
212 Black Crack HVD * 78
213 Beyond the Pale
-
HVS 5b 5
214 Black Cap E2 6a 15
215 Ledger HVD 4
216 Corker S 4b 4
217 Corker wall 1 HD 4
218 Corker wall 2 HD 4
219 Corker wall 3 HVD 4b 2
  Twin Pillars
221 Little Fellow E2 5b 5
222 Bolster E1 5b * 12
223 First Pillar Route 1
-
HVS 5a 4
224 First Pillar Route 2 E1 5a 9
225 Summer Lightning E1 5b 12
226 Flake Climb VS 4c * 39
227 Schard E2 5b * 13
228 The Elf HVS 5a 2
  The Blue Defile
230 Dilemma Roof
-
V0+ 5b 5
231 Dilemma Elminate Wall (left) V0 5b 2
232 Dilemma VS 4c 15
233 Dilemma Elminate Wall (right) V4 6a 2
234 Christa's Chimney M 9
235 Christa's Twin
-
HD 17
236 Defile Left HS 4b 30
237 Brand New Nothing E4 6a 1
238 The Blue Defile VS 4b ** 46
239 Blasphemy E4 6b * 3
240 Defile Chimney D 4
241 Duplicate E1 5b * 8
242 Groovy
-
HVD 7
  Himmelswillen
244 Sidewinder HS 4b 35
245 Frigging Saw E3 6a 1
246 Frontsider VS 5a 5
247 Himmelswillen VS 4c *** 907
248 Serrated Edge E1 5b * 44
249 Teufelsweg D * 143
250 Y.M.C.A. Crack VD * 54
251 Dragon's Hoard E6 6b * 6
252 Cardinal's Treasure E4 6b * 5
253 Banana Wall E3 6a ** 106
254 The Tall and The Short of It E4 6a 5
255 Two Tier Climb
-
S 4a 6
  Hell Gate Area
257 Dinosaur Egg Arête V2 ** 2
258 Dinosaur Egg Arête sit start V3+ * 1
259 Face Wall f6B 1
260 Tower Face HS 4b *** 911
261 Down to Earth E4 5c * 11
262 On the Air E5 6a ** 21
263 Journey into Freedom E7 6b *  
264 Seconds Out E5 6b * 1
265 Pointy Block Problem
-
V5 6b 16
266 Hell Gate Gully M * 108
267 News at Zen E3 5c * 4
268 Desolation Angel E6 6b *** 41
269 Hell Gate VD ** 325
270 Hell gate Variation VD 3c ** 2
271 Gavel Neese E2 5b * 74
272 Lucifer E2 5c * 30
273 Hell Gate Crack HS 4b ** 466
274 Joie-De-Vivre HVS 5c 9
275 Primal Void HVS 5a * 19
276 Ce ne Fait Rien HVS 5b * 18
277 Well Now It Is E2 6a 5
278 Wheelbrace VS 4c 17
279 Green Groove D 22
280 Footloose
-
VS 5a 6
281 Pleasantry
-
HVD 15
282 Obscenity HS 4b 61
283 Falkway
-
VS 5b 4
284 Ladder Climb Left D 5
285 Ladder Climb D 6
286 Ladder Chimney M 6
287 Biffo Arete M 4
288 Biffo S 4a 5
289 Broken Chimney M 4
290 Amnesiac
-
HS 4c 2
291 Amnesiac (direct finish)
-
HVS 5b 1
292 Central Route Direct E1 5c 3
293 Central Route
-
VS 4b 15
294 Central Route (direct finish) HVS 5a 1
295 Bay Wall
-
E2 5b 2
296 Ganto's Axe
-
E2 5c * 1
297 Belle Vue chimney M 7
298 Problem Bulge
-
E1 5b 2
299 Butterfly crack V5 6c 1
  Holly Crack area
301 Hollyoaks Crack
-
VD 2
302 Hollyoaks Slab HVS 5b 4
303 Hollyoaks
-
VS 4b * 6
304 Holly Crack VD * 20
305 Holly Scoop E2 5c * 4
306 The Thorn
-
E1 5a 3
307 Upwardly Mobile
-
E1 5a 2
308 Unnamed Crack
-
S 4b 5
309 Unnamed Crank
-
V4 6a 1
310 Wienie Roast HVS 5a 3
311 Hanging Rock HVS 5a * 4
312 Picnic
-
HS 4a 6
313 Missed Me!
-
VS 4b 5
314 Crack One
-
D 6
315 Second Crack
-
VD 3
316 Crack Three
-
VD 5
317 Short Wall
-
V0 5a 2
318 Mad as a Mad Thing
-
VS 4c 8
319 A Moment of Madness
-
E1 5a 2
320 Charred
-
VD 3
321 Two Tree Trip
-
S 4a 3
322 Footin Mouth
-
HVS 5a 2
323 Too Wide for Some
-
S 2
324 Bring Back the Birch
-
HVS 5a 2
325 Notice Board Left Hand Buttress
-
VS 4c 2
326 Notice Board Slab
-
HS 4a 3
327 Lundy Calling
-
E1 5b 1
328 Awkward Finish
-
VS 4b 3
329 Just Commit
-
E1 5a * 2
330 Pentovis
-
D 8
331 Rib Tickler
-
HS 4a 4
332 Paper Birch
-
E1 5b 2
333 Nardil
-
E3 6a 4
334 Body Blow E1 5b 1
  Long John's stride
336 Eros f6A 1
337 October Climb S 4a 30
338 October Arete Original HVS 5a * 30
339 October Arete E2 5c ** 45
340 Autumn Wall E4 6a *** 48
341 Deepcar Named Desire E5 6b 1
342 Equinox E3 6a * 3
343 Chockstone Chimney VD * 28
344 Tiered Pillar
-
HVS 5a 4
345 V-Chimney VD 23
346 V for Victory
-
E1 5a 1
347 Waxing Lyrical
-
VS 4b 6
348 The Candle Snuffer S 4b 23
349 Long John's Ordinary S 4a * 16
350 Vapona
-
E2 5c 1
351 Spider Cracks VS 5a 8
352 Grammarian's Progress VS 4c ** 67
353 Grammarian’s Direct HVS 5a * 1
354 Gwyn E3 5c * 17
355 Grammarians Face Variant E2 5b ** 1
356 Grammarian's Face E1 5b * 19
357 Long John's Eliminate E2 5b ** 17
358 Cannae E2 5b * 4
359 Long John's Super Direct E3 5c * 2
360 Long John's Short Chimney
-
VD 6
361 Impish f6C * 12
362 Imp Wall f6A+ 7
363 Long Chimney D * 39
364 Long Chimney Variation
-
VD * 9
365 Inclusion E1 5b * 8
366 Richard's Revenge VS 4c ** 213
367 Lord of the Dance
-
E3 6a  
368 Face Dance E4 6a 3
369 Lincoln Crack HVD 4a ** 130
370 Long John's Arete f6B * 6
371 Big Bird
-
HS 4b 5
372 Erganweasel f6A * 3
  The central Section (upper tier)
374 I Like It Dirty V2 1
375 Harrison's Half Hour VS 5b 2
376 Puttrell and Watson's Route S 4b * 19
377 Greenwood Side
-
VS 5a 2
378 Birch Tree Rib S 4a 2
379 Little Wing
-
E4 6a * 2
  Holly Route area
381 Changeling E2 6a * 1
382 S.M.O. E2 5c 3
383 Mark E2 5b * 2
384 Holly Route D 6
385 Emma E1 5c 2
386 Chimney and Crack VD 6
387 La Mancha E2 6a 1
388 Spanish Caravan E1 5c 1
389 Same Rain HVS 5a 1
390 Contemporary HVS 5a * 1
391 Antique E2 5c 2
392 Traditional D 10
393 Hanging Chimney S 4b 9
394 Gone for a Burton VD * 7
395 Bill D 10
396 Ben D 8
397 Big Corner VD 7
398 Mr Mojo Risin' E5 6a ** 1
399 Easy Gully D 3
400 Ridge Climb HS 4b 2
401 Just a Little Bit E2 5b 1
402 Rainbow Crack
-
D 7
403 Corner Climb
-
VD 2
404 Crack and Wall
-
S 1
405 Trouser Browser
-
HS 4a 1
406 Fizz
-
VS 4b 1
407 Even Chance
-
HVS 5b 1
408 Long Odds
-
E5 6b  
409 Toss Up
-
E5 6a *  
410 Chancer Wall
-
S 4a 2
411 Chancer
-
VS 4c 2
412 Chancer Crack
-
D 2
  Far South
  Cascade Buttress
415 Cascade Climb VS 5b * 3
416 Cascade Climb Variation HS 4a * 2
417 Flying Angel E1 5b * 7
418 Fountain of Youth
-
E2 5b 1
419 Watson's Crack VS 4c * 17
420 Spring Tide E2 6b 2
421 Bedrock E6 6b  
422 Puttrell's Crack VD 13
423 Pocket Buttress Direct E5 6a * 2
424 Pocket Buttress VS 4b * 17
425 Stinkpit E2 6a 1
426 Deep Chimney D * 10
427 Deep Chimney Variation D 2
428 Cadence E1 5b * 4
429 Penis Town
-
E1 5c 2
430 First Clean Arete
-
HS 4b 1
431 Envy
-
S 4a 1
432 The George Formby Appreciation Society
-
E2 5c  
  Outlook Boulders
434 Slab and the Beanstalk f6A+ 2
435 Sneaky Little Fingers f7A * 8
436 Pixie's Arete f4+ * 19
437 Lembas f6C+ * 5
438 Lembas Arete f6A 1
439 Kim Span f7A * 3
440 Dirty Roof f6B 3
441 Link Up f6A+ * 5
442 Hard Mantel f6B 1
443 Outlook Roof f6A ** 10
444 Pete's Route f5 5
445 Hard Start V7 6b  
446 Slappy Moves V3 6a 2
447 Similar Pockets V3 6a 1
448 Pockets V3 6b 2
449 Pockets (sit start)
-
V6 6b  
  the bass rock
451 Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 1
452 Sleight of Hand
-
HVS 5b 1
453 This Year's Model
-
E5 6a  
454 Andrew
-
HVS 5a 2
455 Harvey
-
S 4a 2
456 Mind Game
-
E1 5a 3
457 Split Decision
-
E1 5b 1
458 Split Decision lefthand finish E1 5c  
459 Norwand
-
HVS 5b 3
460 Byne's Route S 4a ** 24
461 Rossiter's Route HVS 5b 3
462 Scarlett's Crack VS 5a * 27
463 Bass Relief
-
HVS 5b 3
464 Brooks' Route HVS 5a * 19
465 Dorenuts
-
E1 5a 2
466 Southern Route
-
S 4a 6
467 Top Heavy
-
VS 4c 2
  Lodge Buttresses
469 Blu Wig Sheep
-
f5 1
470 Sushi f6B  
471 Fishboy
-
V6 6b 1
472 Jellyeyes left arete
-
V2 6a 1
473 Jellyeyes
-
V8 6c 1
474 Jellyeyes (with undercut)
-
V6 6c  
475 Jellyeyes right groove
-
V1 5b 1
476 The Arete
-
V3 6a 1
477 The Bear Pit
-
V8 6c  
478 Easy Arete f3 2
479 Dragon Slayer f7A+ ** 16
480 The Skylight Climb M * 6
481 The Dragon's Den f6A+ ** 32
482 Big Flake f5 10
483 Sweet Move f7B *  
484 Jorge f7B ** 2
485 Jorge Easy f6B * 10
486 Jorge Jr f7A * 4
487 Crouching Tiger f7A+ * 1
488 Blunted f7A * 5
489 Blunted (no footblock) V7 6b 4
490 Blunted (high start)
-
V4 6b 3
491 Sweet Release f7C+ * 1
492 PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 14
-
f3 4
493 PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 13
-
f3 3
494 PDB Lodge Buttress Problem 12
-
f3 6
495 Famine Cracks
-
HS 4a 3
496 Ogilvie's Corner HVS 5c * 7
497 Ogilvie's Direct f6B+ * 5
498 Curvaceous f7A+ * 1
499 Ogilvie's Slab f5+ *  
500 Middle Way
-
E1 6a ** 1
501 Nightjar E3 5c * 2
502 Angus
-
HVS 5a 1
503 Lodge Buttress Direct VS 4b * 8
504 Opportunist
-
E2 5c 2
  Ewden Buttress
506 Clean Hands Mick
-
E1 5c 1
507 Clean Hands Mick Start f6A+ 2
508 Windfall E2 5c * 1
509 PDB 6. Windfall start f5 2
510 Ewden Edge VS 4c * 5
511 Ewden Wall VS 4c * 5
512 Crazy Legs Crane f6B 2
513 The Parson's Finch f7B * 2
514 PDB The Slab Problem 1
-
f4 2
515 PDB The Slab Problem 2
-
f4+ 2
516 PDB The Slab Problem 3
-
f3 2
517 Cockyx f6A * 2
518 Pass On VS 5a 1
519 Wobbly Block VD 3c 4
520 Wobbly Block Left D 2
521 Handover Wall * S 4a 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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