Climbs 40
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Just one more bit of gear © JDal

Crag features

A smallish crag in the MOD Otturburn Ranges. The majority of routes are HVS - E4 and the crag is an excellent spot for those operating in that sort of range.

Approach notes

Because the crag is on the MOD ranges permission for access should be obtained by phoning 0191 2611046, unless the red flags are down. This is an area of the range used for small arms stuff and you can very often get access even if the flags are flying.Follow the MOD road out of Holystone and on entering the danger area turn left. After 2km the crag becomes visible.

Access Advice

This crag is on a live firing range and therefore subject to military bylaws. DO NOT PICK UP, KICK OR REMOVE ANY OBJECT FROM THE OTTERBURN TRAINING AREA, IT COULD KILL.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is no access to the crags when the red flags are flying. A phone call must be made to Otterburn Range Control prior to any visit. The contact numbers are (0191) 239 4261 and (01830) 520569. If the crags are open, permission will be granted over the phone and a booking reference will be given. This must be noted and quoted to range control staff if requested. On leaving the range a call must be made to range control so they know you have left the range area. It is imperative this protocol is followed to the letter. Peregrine have been spotted nesting at the crag - prob. best to retreat if they are present when you are climbing.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Hush
-
VS 4c  
2 Quiet Country
-
E6 6b ***  
3 Slim
-
VD  
4 The Onsight Gobbler E4 6a **  
5 The Camels Back E3 5c ***  
6 The Reaper E4 5c  
7 Millstone Crack
-
HVS 5b  
8 Grip Crack
-
HS 4b  
9 Yard of Hope
-
E3 6a **  
10 Hay Fever
-
S 4b  
11 Straw Dogs
-
VS 5a 1
12 The Vegetarian
-
HVS 5b  
13 Alfalfa
-
D  
14 Heaven Can Wait HVS 5b 2
15 No Time For Prayers
-
E3 6a *  
16 Haystack Crack HS 4b 1
17 The Long Straw
-
HVS 5b 1
18 The Straw
-
E2 6a  
19 The Short Straw
-
HVS 5c 1
20 The Last Straw
-
E2 6a  
21 Footloose and Flying Free E3 5c **  
22 Bonds Folly MS 4
23 Bran Flakes
-
E1 5b * 1
24 Funeral Drum
-
E3 5c  
25 The Arete HVS 5b *** 9
26 The Arete Direct
-
HVS 5b 1
27 Stella E4 5c 1
28 Original Route VS 5a *** 18
29 The Splits
-
HVS 5a ** 2
30 Priapismic Failure
-
E4 6b *  
31 Popcorn Suprise
-
E3 6a ** 1
32 The Threshing Machine
-
HS  
33 Godzooki
-
E1 5c  
34 Kong
-
E3 6a **  
35 Godzilla
-
E3 5c *** 1
36 Strawberry Crack
-
HVS 5b  
37 The Grinder
-
HVS 5c * 1
38 Headbanger
-
VD  

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