Climbs 127
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

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Franco's Wall, just before the rain got me © EBclimbing

Crag features

Good Bouldering on the White and Black walls, along with some higher routes. The Alcove offers climbing up to about 12 metres. A good 'Super highball Venue' only a minute from the road and a mile from Hutton-le-hole..

*BOULDERING STARING* - Most problems are eliminates, based on a peak limestone style system. The lines are never going to be superb, as the obvious holds are avoided, so instead the stars are offered for quality of moves and holds and sustained nature.

Approach notes

Wander down path. See Climbonline.co.uk

Lovely on a sunny day to relax with a picnic. I wouldn't suggest you come here to do trad leading as protection isn't fantastic, however its very good for top roping and beginners. There are very convenient belay stakes and trees at the top for easy setup ups. If you decide to lead climb here I suggest you bring an extra rope to abseil down with. There are no immediately obvious descents and as the climbs are short you'll be coming down a lot. Very easily accessible, parking is just a grass verge about 1 or 2 mins walk from the main 'Alcove' Crag. I Highly recommend http://www.climbonline.co.uk/ravenswick_quarry.htm as a guide book.
Robert Whitby - 29/May/18
The Trad climbing here offers nothing special, but is a useful crag for those from the south moors, or perhaps the climber seeking shelter from a windy or rainy blakey ridge. The bouldering on the other hand is nothing short of superb- once one gets one's head around the eliminate climbing style. Some excellent moves at all grades above font 6a and one of my favourite venues. There is endless potential for increasingly hard eliminates and although often sharp, the holds are beautiful. It takes a real local to accurately predict whether the crag is likely to be dry- generally speaking, if it's rained for less than 2 days after a long dry spell, then it will be dry, if it's been on off rain followed by strong winds it will be dry, if it's rained a lot for a long time then it will be wet. Even in a wet state there is often a dry patch to mess about on.
Franco Cookson - 06/Sep/11
good all weather crag. some good easier climbs in the alcove. the best being crystal wall, right uncorquerable, monograptus and stepped arete/mumble beginings. The bouldering eliminates on the black wall are really good and quite steep, ideal for finger strength. There are also a few test peices at aroung E3/E4 and some good choss practice if your that way inclined. Most amusing route has to be 'the gutter' though.........
Sam Marks - 23/Jun/11
Having just spent a sunny afternoon at the crag which is my local crag I've come to the conclusion that this is a great venue for soloing, I'm not so sure I'd bother bringing my rack along with me again next time, couple of pads did us just fine today.
EBclimbing - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Alcove Area
2 Rambler's Rib
-
VD 13
3 Stepped Arete VD ** 24
4 Humble Beginnings VS 4c 6
5 Badger Crack HS * 21
6 Amateurs' Eliminate 5c 3
7 Ravenswick Eliminate VD 11
8 Crazy Child E1 4c 6
9 Alcove Crack MVS 4b 9
10 Dooge's Variant HVS 4b 4
11 Alex's Scoop HVS 4c * 14
12 Left Unconquerable HVS 5a 35
13 Right Unconquerable VS 4c ** 25
14 Crystal Rib E1 5c 11
15 Crystal Wall S 4a * 45
16 Crystal Arete VD 34
17 Monograptus M * 37
18 Burgess Route D 31
19 Burgess Arete D 28
20 Crumble Wall D 36
21 Unconquerable Traverse V1 5b 3
  The Terrace
23 Tilted Crack HS 6
24 Lazing on a Sunny Afternoon VD 13
25 Guw aann!!! f6A 2
26 Gok wann f5 2
  White and Black walls
28 White crack HS 10
29 White Wall E2 5c 9
30 Central Wall HVS 5a * 19
31 Franco's Wall
-
E1 5b * 14
32 Luddite Rebellion V2 5b 11
33 Arete Climb VS 4c 19
34 Phils' Wall E1 5b 10
35 The Gutter S 11
36 Gutter Crack
-
VS 5a 14
37 Bummelzug Direct f6B 6
38 Bummelzug E3 5c * 13
39 Solstice HVS 5b 14
40 Fred E4 6b * 7
41 Tax Disc E3 6a * 7
42 Black Magic E3 6a * 13
43 Phil's Crack
-
HVS 5a 4
44 Jug Climb
-
VS 5a 7
Climb name Grade
45 Friends E1 5c 7
46 NYM Problem 15 f6A 4
  Bouldering (White And Black Walls)
48 Super-Domestique f6C *** 3
49 No Rest For The Wicked (The True Black Wall Traverse) 7c *** 4
50 Chris's mates crack V1 3
51 Chris's white stripe V1 3
52 White Wall Traverse V2 5b * 33
53 Traverse from Gutter Crack to the Flake (jug finish) f6B ** 11
54 Traverse from Gutter Crack to the Flake f6C *** 7
55 The Bummel Circuit f6C+ * 2
56 The Bummel Circuit Alternate Finish f6B+ ** 2
57 Fade To Black f6B * 1
58 Dark Matter f6C+ * 10
59 Deal! f6B ** 2
60 No Deal! f6A * 3
61 Neutrino f6C+ ** 1
62 Film Noir f6C+ * 8
63 The Pigeon f6B ** 15
64 The Condor f6C * 13
65 The Pictet-Spengler f7A ** 3
66 Bio Fuel f6B 2
67 Jerry's Gaston f6C+ * 3
68 Rose and the Unemployed Steel Worker f6B+ * 1
69 The Shivers f6C 3
70 A New Life f7A * 3
71 Jeffrey the Gimp f6B ** 2
72 Eccles Cake f6B+ 7
73 Marooned f6B+ 7
74 Marooned Eliminate f6C+ 2
75 Maroon Circuit f6C+ ** 2
76 Stranded f6B+ ** 9
77 Hidden Treasure f7A *** 13
78 Special Brew f7A ** 2
79 Sam's Problem f6A * 11
80 Rum Rum, Watch ya Bum f6C+ ** 2
81 Bird Machine f7A+ *** 6
82 Snake f7A+ * 3
83 Pinch f6C * 15
84 Pinch Machine f7B * 1
85 Bird Machine MkII f7A 2
86 Flake Attack f6C 1
87 Pheasant Run f6B * 3
88 The Pleasant Pheasant f6B+ * 3
Climb name Grade
89 Proj 3 f7C  
90 Pheasant Attack f6C ** 1
91 Traverse Of The Black Wall f7A+ ** 13
92 The One-Eyed Angry Pirate f7A * 6
93 Mississimply Belter f7A ** 1
94 Pseudomorphic f6C ** 1
95 Never in Month of Woody Harrelsons f7A * 1
96 Black Magician f7A *** 14
97 Blackened f7A * 1
98 Crowley f7A+ ** 1
99 Wicker Man f6C+ ** 2
100 Wicker Extension f7A 1
101 Layaway Dyno V3 6a * 4
102 Magician's Traverse f6C 1
103 Jug Direct
-
V3 6a * 4
104 Jug Eliminate V4 6a 3
105 Cornflake
-
V4 6a 1
106 Fatty Come Lightly f6A+ * 2
107 Winter Traverse' f7A 6
108 Summer Traverse f6C 8
109 The Altar of Inconvenience f6C * 1
110 Meromorphic Match f7A ** 2
111 Dark Times f6B 6
112 Continuity Error f6A+ ** 6
113 Problem 21 f7A 8
114 The Silence f7A 10
115 Layaway Variation f6A 1
116 The Flake VD 4
117 Cross with the Choss about the Corner! VD 1
118 Crack on! VS 4c 1
119 Bone Machine * f7A ** 1
  Marks' Slopey Buttress (XS central)
121 Gutter Guts XS 4c 1
122 Rough and Tumble XS 4a * 2
123 Rock Spit XS 4b 1
  The Pit
125 The Cloak of Evening Shadow E4 6a * 1
  Ravenswick East
127 Rosie and Joanne HVS 4c * 2
128 Bad Moon Rising S 4a 1
129 Saucy Badgers Return HVS 5a * 2
130 Birthday Bomb HVS 5a 2
131 Cross with the Moss about the Crack VS 4c 2
132 Shelf Life f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Franco Cookson and MTL