Climbs 111
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

Franco's Wall, just before the rain got me © EBclimbing

Crag features

Good Bouldering on the White and Black walls, along with some higher routes. The Alcove offers climbing up to about 12 metres. A good 'Super highball Venue' only a minute from the road and a mile from Hutton-le-hole..

*BOULDERING GRADING AND STARING* Many of the problems were origionally over-graded and hence some of the newer problems are also probably soft for the grade. Many of the grades have since been tweaked to keep inline with other areas, but grades may be found to still be soft....Even more confusingly, the very modern problems are likely to bit stiff for the grade as they are deliberately un-soft... (2010) Consensus has improved the situation since that was written and the grading is thought to be spot on (Aug 2011)

STARRING- Most problems are eliminates, based on a peak limestone style system. The lines are never going to be superb, as the obvious holds are avoided, so instead the stars are offered for quality of moves and holds and sustained nature.

Lots of data constantly appearing for this crag from many different sources, so this database may lag behind a bit... Email me if you have issues- franco cookson.

Approach notes

Wander down path. See Climbonline.co.uk

The Trad climbing here offers nothing special, but is a useful crag for those from the south moors, or perhaps the climber seeking shelter from a windy or rainy blakey ridge. The bouldering on the other hand is nothing short of superb- once one gets one's head around the eliminate climbing style. Some excellent moves at all grades above font 6a and one of my favourite venues. There is endless potential for increasingly hard eliminates and although often sharp, the holds are beautiful. It takes a real local to accurately predict whether the crag is likely to be dry- generally speaking, if it's rained for less than 2 days after a long dry spell, then it will be dry, if it's been on off rain followed by strong winds it will be dry, if it's rained a lot for a long time then it will be wet. Even in a wet state there is often a dry patch to mess about on.
Franco Cookson - 06/Sep/11
good all weather crag. some good easier climbs in the alcove. the best being crystal wall, right uncorquerable, monograptus and stepped arete/mumble beginings. The bouldering eliminates on the black wall are really good and quite steep, ideal for finger strength. There are also a few test peices at aroung E3/E4 and some good choss practice if your that way inclined. Most amusing route has to be 'the gutter' though.........
Sam Marks - 23/Jun/11
Having just spent a sunny afternoon at the crag which is my local crag I've come to the conclusion that this is a great venue for soloing, I'm not so sure I'd bother bringing my rack along with me again next time, couple of pads did us just fine today.
EBclimbing - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Alcove Area 
2Rambler's Rib
-
VD 12
3Stepped AreteVD **21
4Humble BeginningsVS 4c 4
5Badger CrackHS *18
6Amateurs' Eliminate5c 1
7Ravenswick EliminateVD 9
8Crazy ChildE1 4c 2
9Alcove CrackMVS 4b 3
10Dooge's VariantHVS 4b 2
11Alex's ScoopHVS 4c *12
12Left UnconquerableHVS 5a 29
13Right UnconquerableVS 4c **21
14Crystal RibE1 5c 7
15Crystal WallS 4a *39
16Crystal AreteVD 31
17MonograptusM *32
18Burgess RouteD 28
19Burgess AreteD 25
20Crumble WallD 31
21Unconquerable TraverseV1 3
 The Terrace 
23Tilted CrackHS 4
24Lazing on a Sunny AfternoonVD 11
25Guw aann!!!f6A 2
26Gok wannf5 2
 White and Black walls 
28White crackHS 3
29White WallE2 5c 2
30Central WallHVS 5a *12
31Franco's Wall
-
E1 5b *6
32Luddite RebellionV2 4
33Arete ClimbVS 4c 8
34Phils' WallE1 5b 3
35The GutterS 3
36Gutter Crack
-
VS 5a 5
37Bummelzug Directf6B 6
38BummelzugE3 5c *5
39SolsticeHVS 5b 5
40FredE4 6b *6
81Pheasant Attackf6C **1
82Traverse Of The Black Wallf7A+ **11
83The One-Eyed Angry Piratef7A *3
84Layaway DynoV3 *4
85Winter Traverse'f7A 5
86Jug Direct
-
V3 *3
87Jug EliminateV4 2
88Cornflake
-
V4 1
89Continuity Errorf6A+ **6
90The FlakeVD 4
91No Deal!f6A *2
92Deal!f6B **2
93Cross with the Choss about the Corner!VD 1
94Crack on!VS 4c 1
 Marks' Slopey Buttress (XS central) 
96Gutter GutsXS 4c 1
97Rough and TumbleXS 4a *1
98Rock SpitXS 4b 1
 The Pit 
100The Cloak of Evening ShadowE4 6a *1
 Ravenswick East 
102Rosie and JoanneHVS 4c *2
103Bad Moon RisingS 4a 1
104Saucy Badgers ReturnHVS 5a *2
105Birthday BombHVS 5a 2
106Cross with the Moss about the CrackVS 4c 2
107Sam's Problemf6A 2
108Dark Timesf6B 4
109Problem 21f7A 4
110Problem 23f7A+ 3
111The Silence NYM problem 22f7A 5
112Neutrino *f6C+ **1
113Bird Machine MkII *f7A 1
114Magician's Traverse *f6C 1
115Bio Fuel *f6B 1
116Black Magician *f7A *5
117Pinch Machine *f7B *1
118Layaway Variation *f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson