Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 80m a.s.l
Faces W

Franco's Wall, just before the rain got me © EBclimbing

Crag features

Good Bouldering on the White and Black walls, along with some higher routes. The Alcove offers climbing up to about 12 metres. A good 'Super highball Venue' only a minute from the road and a mile from Hutton-le-hole..

*BOULDERING GRADING AND STARING* Many of the problems were origionally over-graded and hence some of the newer problems are also probably soft for the grade. Many of the grades have since been tweaked to keep inline with other areas, but grades may be found to still be soft....Even more confusingly, the very modern problems are likely to bit stiff for the grade as they are deliberately un-soft... (2010) Consensus has improved the situation since that was written and the grading is thought to be spot on (Aug 2011)

STARRING- Most problems are eliminates, based on a peak limestone style system. The lines are never going to be superb, as the obvious holds are avoided, so instead the stars are offered for quality of moves and holds and sustained nature.

Lots of data constantly appearing for this crag from many different sources, so this database may lag behind a bit... Email me if you have issues- franco cookson.

Approach notes

Wander down path. See Climbonline.co.uk

The Trad climbing here offers nothing special, but is a useful crag for those from the south moors, or perhaps the climber seeking shelter from a windy or rainy blakey ridge. The bouldering on the other hand is nothing short of superb- once one gets one's head around the eliminate climbing style. Some excellent moves at all grades above font 6a and one of my favourite venues. There is endless potential for increasingly hard eliminates and although often sharp, the holds are beautiful. It takes a real local to accurately predict whether the crag is likely to be dry- generally speaking, if it's rained for less than 2 days after a long dry spell, then it will be dry, if it's been on off rain followed by strong winds it will be dry, if it's rained a lot for a long time then it will be wet. Even in a wet state there is often a dry patch to mess about on.
Franco Cookson - 06/Sep/11
good all weather crag. some good easier climbs in the alcove. the best being crystal wall, right uncorquerable, monograptus and stepped arete/mumble beginings. The bouldering eliminates on the black wall are really good and quite steep, ideal for finger strength. There are also a few test peices at aroung E3/E4 and some good choss practice if your that way inclined. Most amusing route has to be 'the gutter' though.........
Sam Marks - 23/Jun/11
Having just spent a sunny afternoon at the crag which is my local crag I've come to the conclusion that this is a great venue for soloing, I'm not so sure I'd bother bringing my rack along with me again next time, couple of pads did us just fine today.
EBclimbing - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Alcove Area
2 Rambler's Rib
-
VD 12
3 Stepped Arete VD ** 21
4 Humble Beginnings VS 4c 4
5 Badger Crack HS * 18
6 Amateurs' Eliminate 5c 1
7 Ravenswick Eliminate VD 9
8 Crazy Child E1 4c 2
9 Alcove Crack MVS 4b 3
10 Dooge's Variant HVS 4b 2
11 Alex's Scoop HVS 4c * 12
12 Left Unconquerable HVS 5a 28
13 Right Unconquerable VS 4c ** 21
14 Crystal Rib E1 5c 7
15 Crystal Wall S 4a * 38
16 Crystal Arete VD 31
17 Monograptus M * 32
18 Burgess Route D 28
19 Burgess Arete D 25
20 Crumble Wall D 31
21 Unconquerable Traverse V1 5b 3
  The Terrace
23 Tilted Crack HS 4
24 Lazing on a Sunny Afternoon VD 11
25 Guw aann!!! f6A 2
26 Gok wann f5 2
  White and Black walls
28 White crack HS 3
29 White Wall E2 5c 2
30 Central Wall HVS 5a * 13
31 Franco's Wall
-
E1 5b * 6
32 Luddite Rebellion V2 5b 5
33 Arete Climb VS 4c 11
34 Phils' Wall E1 5b 3
35 The Gutter S 3
36 Gutter Crack
-
VS 5a 7
37 Bummelzug Direct f6B 6
38 Bummelzug E3 5c * 6
39 Solstice HVS 5b 7
40 Fred E4 6b * 6
41 Tax Disc E3 6a * 1
42 Black Magic E3 6a * 6
43 Phil's Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
44 Jug Climb
-
VS 5a 5
45 Friends E1 5c 3
46 NYM Problem 15 * f6A 4
  Bouldering (White And Black Walls)
48 The True Black Wall Traverse 7c+ *** 4
49 Chris's mates crack V1 1
50 Chris's white stripe V1 1
51 White Wall Traverse V2 5b * 32
52 Traverse from Gutter Crack to the Flake (jug finish) f6B ** 7
53 Traverse from Gutter Crack to the Flake f6C *** 7
54 The Bummel Circuit f6C+ * 2
55 The Bummel Circuit Alternate Finish f6B+ ** 2
56 Dark Matter f6C+ * 4
57 Film Noir f6C+ * 3
58 The Pigeon f6B ** 9
59 The Condor f6C * 8
60 Jerry's Gaston f6C+ * 3
61 The Shivers f6C 3
62 A New Life f7A * 2
63 Jeffrey the Gimp f6B ** 2
64 Eccles Cake f6B+ 7
65 Marooned f6B+ 7
66 Maroon Undercut f6C+ 2
67 Maroon Circuit f6C+ ** 2
68 Stranded f6B+ ** 8
69 Hidden Treasure f7A * 8
70 The Mutiny Project f7B+  
71 Pick a peck of pickled pepper (formerly pick pocket) f6A * 5
72 Rum Rum, Watch ya Bum f6C+ ** 2
73 Bird Machine f7A+ ** 4
74 Snake f7A+ * 3
75 Pinch f6C * 12
76 Flake Attack f6C 1
77 Project 2 f7B+ *  
78 Pheasant Run f6B * 3
79 The Pleasant Pheasant f6B+ * 3
80 Proj 3 f7C  
81 Pheasant Attack f6C ** 1
82 Traverse Of The Black Wall f7A+ ** 11
83 The One-Eyed Angry Pirate f7A * 3
84 Layaway Dyno V3 6a * 4
85 Winter Traverse' f7A 5
86 Jug Direct
-
V3 6a * 3
87 Jug Eliminate V4 6a 2
88 Cornflake
-
V4 6a 1
89 Continuity Error f6A+ ** 6
90 The Flake VD 4
91 No Deal! f6A * 2
92 Deal! f6B ** 2
93 Cross with the Choss about the Corner! VD 1
94 Crack on! VS 4c 1
  Marks' Slopey Buttress (XS central)
96 Gutter Guts XS 4c 1
97 Rough and Tumble XS 4a * 2
98 Rock Spit XS 4b 1
  The Pit
100 The Cloak of Evening Shadow E4 6a * 1
  Ravenswick East
102 Rosie and Joanne HVS 4c * 2
103 Bad Moon Rising S 4a 1
104 Saucy Badgers Return HVS 5a * 2
105 Birthday Bomb HVS 5a 2
106 Cross with the Moss about the Crack VS 4c 2
107 Sam's Problem f6A 3
108 Dark Times f6B 4
109 Problem 21 f7A 4
110 Problem 23 f7A+ 4
111 The Silence NYM problem 22 f7A 6
112 Neutrino * f6C+ ** 1
113 Bird Machine MkII * f7A 1
114 Magician's Traverse * f6C 1
115 Bio Fuel * f6B 2
116 Black Magician * f7A * 6
117 Pinch Machine * f7B * 1
118 Layaway Variation * f6A 1
119 Shelf Life * f6B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson