UKC

Climbs 368
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
Keith-Getoutadventures - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  -----SHAFTOE NORTH----
  THE RIFT
3 First Problem f6A 6
4 Problem 5
-
f5 13
5 Problem 6 f6A 5
6 Problem 7 f5+ 5
7 Problem 8 f6A 5
8 Problem 10 f6C 2
9 The Second Nose f6B 4
  THE PUDDING STONE
11 Problem 1 f4+ 18
12 Problem 2
-
f5 29
13 Pudding Filler f4 4
14 Problem 3 f6C 12
  NORTH BUTTRESS
16 Short Wall
-
f4 21
17 Merry Dancers f6A 7
18 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
19 Mini Power f6C 10
20 Aurora Borealis f4 4
21 Northern Frights f5+ 2
  ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS
23 Problem 10 f5 75
24 Piano f7B 3
25 Fingers f7A 6
26 The Long Reach
-
f6A 48
27 The Long Reach SDS f7B 13
28 Slapper f7A 187
29 Clamper f7A+ 26
30 Corner Crack
-
f4+ 52
31 Problem 18 f5 40
32 Problem 19 f5+ 28
33 Classic Arete
-
f6A 106
34 Shaftoe Bloc f6C 6
35 Problem 21 f5+ 68
36 Problem 22 f5+ 50
37 Problem 23 f6A+ 40
38 Problem 24 f5+ 18
39 17. Arete Land Traverse f6A+ 1
  SIX PACK
41 Six Pack Circuit f6B 11
42 Lip Trip f6A+ 12
43 Alexis f6B+ 15
  PUNISHMENT BLOCK
45 Green Line
-
f4+ 14
46 Problem 29
-
f4 21
47 Problem 30
-
f4 19
48 Problem 32
-
f5+ 16
49 Problem 33 f7A 3
50 Problem 34 (Punishment Mantel) f6C 1
  DOLPHIN
52 Problem 36 f6C 5
  THE INCLINED SLAB
54 Problem 38
-
f4+ 31
  GRINDSTONE
56 39. From the Left f7A  
57 40 From the Right f6C  
58 41. Total Traverse f7A  
  JUBILEE BOULDER
60 Jubilee Traverse f6C+  
  -----CENTRAL AREA-----
  SALTER'S NICK
63 In the Nick f6A+ 4
64 Sharp Arete
-
f6A 18
65 Salt n Pepper f5+ 17
66 Salt n Pepper Right Hand Side f6A 5
67 'S' Crack
-
f4 35
68 Central Traverse f6C 5
69 Right-hand Traverse f5+ 6
70 Problem 10 f5+ 6
71 Small Boulder
-
f5 14
72 Small Fry f4+ 3
73 Syco Sheep f6C * 4
74 Full Nettle Jacket f5+ 4
75 Finger Bowl
-
f4 13
76 Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 9
77 Problem 9 f6C 2
  LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER
79 Problem 17
-
f4+ 59
80 Problem 18
-
f5+ 51
81 Problem 19
-
f5+ 42
82 Problem 20
-
f5 20
83 Problem 20a f6A+ 6
84 Sunshower f6A 7
85 Rainshower f6B 6
  LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE
87 Lost Slab f4 42
88 Lost Groove
-
f4 59
89 Axe Head
-
f6A 84
90 Stone Age Man f7A+ 12
91 Lost Arrowhead f6C 32
92 Neolithic Man
-
f6B 40
93 Cave Dweller f7A+ 35
94 Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man Link V10 2
95 Broken Arrow f7C 4
96 California Man f7C * 1
  CRUCIFIX BOULDER
98 Christmas Time f4 4
99 Problem 31 f6A 2
100 Crucifix Crack f5 17
101 Problem 33 f5 5
102 Problem 34 f6C 3
  OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER)
104 Oyster Traverse
-
f6A 1
  BOULDER IN THE WOODS
106 36. Traverse in the Woods f7A 1
  GATEWAY BUTTRESSES
108 Problem 37 f7A 2
109 Mrs Mops Problem 40 f4 40
110 Mrs Mops Problem 41 f4 46
111 Mrs Mops Problem 42 f4 43
112 Mrs Mops Problem 43 f4 34
  THE RAVINE
114 Shallow Groove
-
f4 107
115 Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 107
116 Side Wall
-
f4 101
117 Hidden Crack f6A 24
118 Young's Arete f6B 21
119 Easy Wall
-
f4 62
120 Crack One
-
f5 70
121 No Need for Speed f6C+ 8
122 Smooth Wall f7A 46
123 Crack Two
-
f4 104
124 Buford T Justice f6C+ 66
125 Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 77
126 Problem 54 f5+ 42
127 Way Cool
-
f5 105
128 Problem 56
-
f6A 52
129 Problem 57
-
f5 44
130 Low Level Traverse
-
f4 19
131 Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 16
  THE BIG BIRCH
133 Problem 61
-
f4+ 6
134 Problem 63 f4 7
135 Branch Left f6A 4
136 Branch Right f6B 4
137 Branch Right SDS f6C 2
138 The Mantel f7A+ 4
139 58. Left Arete Big Birch f6A 1
140 59. Pinch and Sloper f6A 1
141 60. Right Arete - The Big Birch f6B 1
Climb name Grade
142 Problem 62 (The Big Birch)
-
f5 1
143 Problem 68 (the Big Birch)
-
f5+ 1
144 71. The Shelf (the Big Birch)
-
f5 1
145 Last of the Summer Wine f7A 1
  -----WESTERN EDGES-----
  FONT BOULDER
148 Bleaustard f6A+ 33
149 Purely Belter f7C ** 29
150 Suprising Solution f7A 101
151 Font Centre f7A 21
152 Incipient Crack f6A 93
153 Incipient Crack (sit start) f7A *** 116
154 Problem 5 f6A 52
155 Problem 5 Sit Start f6B 29
156 Short Crack
-
f4+ 71
157 Little Prow f6A 45
158 Cuvier
-
f6A 49
159 Final Prow
-
f4+ 51
160 Font Traverse f6C 69
161 Reverse Traverse f6B 10
162 Gnarly Start f7A ** 2
  THE BUSINESS
164 Problem 14 f7A 13
165 Problem 15 f7A 1
  STOLEN FROM IVOR
167 Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
168 Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
169 Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
170 Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
171 Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
172 Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
173 Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
  MINI OBELISK
175 Cliff's Slab
-
f4 25
  ASTRO
177 24. Astro Traverse
-
f7A  
  HAIR LIP
179 25. Hair Lip Traverse
-
f6A  
180 26. Hair Lip Traverse with lower feet.
-
f5+ 1
  SMITH'S ROCKS
182 The Lip f7A 7
183 The Scoop
-
f6B 39
184 The Mask
-
f6C+ 30
185 The Crack f4 21
186 Milk and Cookies f6A+ 13
187 Knee Cracker f6A+ 10
188 The Bunker f6B 12
189 The Edge
-
f6A 22
190 Weasels Ripped my Flesh f6C 6
191 Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 47
192 Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 22
193 Clamp f5+ ** 15
194 Clamp SS f6C 1
195 City of Sand
-
f6B 10
196 Problem 38
-
f6C 13
197 Pebble Slab f6C 10
198 Proposal f6C 21
  TURTLE ROCK
200 Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 16
201 Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 13
202 Underbelly
-
f5 16
203 Soft Centre f6A 49
204 The Boss f7B ** 25
205 Blood Sport f8A+ 3
206 Bloodsport Left Hand Finish f8B+ 1
207 Hard Shell f6C 14
208 Hard Shell sit start f7A * 3
209 Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 49
210 Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light) f6C * 2
211 Galapagos Turtle
-
E5 6a  
  NEB BOULDER
213 Power is Nothing Without Control f7C *** 13
214 Crease Classic
-
f6B 58
215 Broken Hearts Are For Assholes f7A+ 68
216 The Neb Roof
-
f6C 135
217 The Original f6A ** 64
218 Perverse Classic f6C * 11
219 Problem 58
-
f6A 15
220 Problem 59
-
f5+ 13
221 Sloper Masterclass f5+ *** 188
222 Problem 61
-
f6A 20
223 Problem 62
-
f6B 47
224 Aside
-
f6B 44
225 Pure Endurance f7A 3
226 All Neb's Aside f7A+ 2
227 Nebs Extention f7A 1
228 Nebs-Asshole f7A 4
229 Nebs-Sloper f6C+ 3
230 65. Flat Out (Neb Boulder)
-
f7A 1
231 All Powered out! f7C+ 1
  -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----
  DEAD PINE BUTTRESS
234 The Alligator f5+ 3
235 The Alligator Right-Hand f6B 2
236 Clueless Caiman Hunters f6A+ 1
237 Living Fossil f6A 1
238 Lightning Never Strikes Twice f5 3
239 Problem 10
-
f5+ 4
240 The Cow f6A 1
241 11. Pygmy Traverse (Pygmy Rocks)
-
f6A 1
242 12. Pygmy Rocks
-
f6A 1
243 Dead Pine Problem 4
-
f6B 1
244 Dead Pine Problem 5
-
f6B 1
245 Dead Pine Problem 6
-
f6B 1
246 Dead Pine Problem 7
-
f6B 1
247 Dead Pine Problem 8
-
f6B 1
248 Dead Pine Problem 9
-
f6B 1
  DISHPAN ALLEY
250 East Wall
-
f5+ 31
251 Arete
-
f6A 29
252 Problem 18
-
f4 49
253 Problem 19 f4+ 39
254 Problem 20 f5+ * 23
255 Problem 21
-
f5+ 33
256 Problem 22
-
f5+ 46
257 Rising Damp
-
f6B 31
258 Corner
-
f4+ 34
259 Mantel Madness f6C *** 37
260 Problem 29
-
f5+ 16
261 27. Troy's Eliminate f6B 3
262 Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 11
263 Problem 31
-
f5+ 13
264 28. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 2
265 Problem 32
-
f4 18
266 18a. Crimps (Dishpan Alley) f6A 1
267 33. There and Back (Dishpan Alley) f6C 1
  MAIN BUTTRESS
269 Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
270 Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 36
271 Viagra Plus Sit Start f7B 49
272 Sloppy Ploppin f6C 7
273 Sloppy Ploppin S.S f7C+ 2
274 Central Wall f7B+ 4
275 Main Wall
-
f6C 12
276 Main Wall Sit Start f7B+ ** 21
277 Timmy Tip Toes f7A+ * 52
278 Magic Fluting
-
f5 121
279 38. Vorsprung Durch Technik f8A ***  
280 43. Wall f5+ 1
281 44. Main Buttress R-L Traverse f6C  
282 45. The Wasp
-
f6B+ 1
Climb name Grade
  FLUTED WALL
284 The Sting f6A+ 10
285 Buzzing f6C 12
286 Buzzing (sit start) f7A ** 12
287 47a. Fluted Wall Traverse f6B+  
  THE COB
289 Problem 48
-
f5+ 23
290 Cob Arete
-
f5 129
291 Problem 50
-
f6A 43
292 Hound Dog f7A+ 16
293 Killer Queen f6C 7
294 Hip Hop
-
f6A 45
295 Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 65
296 The Link f6A 7
297 54. Korn on the Cob
-
f6B 1
  SHIP'S BAIT CABIN
299 Problem 58 f4 84
300 Problem 59 f4 77
301 Problem 60 f5 75
302 The Thug
-
f5+ 46
303 The Technician
-
f5+ 36
304 Lip Traverse
-
f4 24
305 Port
-
f5+ 78
306 Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 67
307 Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A * 44
308 Wolf
-
f6B 32
309 Starboard
-
f5 86
310 Bow Wave
-
f6A 46
311 Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 24
312 Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 29
313 Bait Boxed f7A *** 2
  SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES
315 Cow Pat f5+ 5
316 69. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f4+ 1
317 70. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5 1
318 71. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5+ 1
319 72. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f6C 1
320 73. A Week in Provence
-
f7C  
321 74. Provence Traverse
-
f5+ 1
322 75. Weakling in Provence
-
f6A 1
  -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----
  RUDDER'S BOULDERS
325 Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
326 2. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
327 3. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
328 4. Rudder's Boulders
-
f6A 1
  THE SEADOG BOULDER
330 Seadog Traverse
-
f6B 1
  PUNCH BOWL
332 Black Pudding f7A * 1
333 Problem 7 f6C 2
334 Duvel 8.5% f7A 37
335 The Real Duvel 8.5% f6C+ 5
336 Problem 10 f5+ 18
337 Canine
-
f6A 15
338 0% Alcohol f7A 6
339 Problem 12 f6C 2
340 9. Punchbowl
-
f5+ 1
  CAVE BUTTRESS
342 Flake Crack f4+ 15
343 Pocket Rocket f7A 41
344 The Wall f4+ 5
345 Orangutan f6C 2
346 16. feeding the Baboons
-
f7A  
347 17. The Eyes
-
f6C  
348 18. Right-hand Crack
-
f7A+  
  LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS
350 The Scoop
-
f4 4
351 The Wall f6B 3
352 Little Crack f4 2
353 Little John f5 2
354 Slab Arete
-
f4 6
355 Little and Often f6B+ * 3
356 Problem 26
-
f4+ 6
  LONG WALL
358 3 Fingers, 1 Pebble. f6C 1
359 Wickerman f6B 4
360 Wickerman SS f6B+ 4
361 Wicker arete f6C 2
362 Wickerman Warm Up f4 2
363 27. Long Wall Traverse
-
f5+ 1
364 (27. Variation) Long Wall Lip Traverse
-
f7A  
  MINISCULE MATTERHORN
366 Problem 28
-
f4 10
367 Problem 29
-
f4 7
  Cafe Noir
369 Cafe Noir E4 5c ** 1
370 Cream Topping
-
E5 6c  
  CENTRAL ALCOVE
372 Problem 34
-
f4 6
373 The antler f7A 1
374 Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kid f6C+ 8
375 30. Short Left Wall
-
f4 1
376 31. Jam Crack f4 1
377 32. Pegasus
-
f4+ 1
378 33. Behind the Tree
-
f5+ 1
  TWO TIER BOULDER
380 Tears in Heaven f5+ 6
381 River of Tears f7B+ * 7
382 Tears on the Dance Floor f6B+ 6
383 Tears on the Dance Floor SS f7A 2
384 Edge of Sanity f5 5
385 Two Tier Crack f4+ 1
386 Two Tears f7A+ 2
387 38. A Tale of Two Cities
-
f5+ 1
388 42. Tuppence Ha'penny
-
f4+ 1
389 47. Two a Penny
-
f5+ 1
390 Shafted
-
E3 5c 1
  CYCLOPS BUTTRESS
392 Green Wall f4 11
393 Left Arete
-
f4+ 11
394 Cyclops Wall f5 8
395 Right Arete f5 5
396 The Scoop f4+ 4
397 Side Wall f4+ 4
  HALFWAY HOUSE
399 54. Halfway House
-
f5 1
400 55. Halfway House Arete
-
f5 1
  ROADSIDE BOULDER
402 The lip sit start f7A+ 3
403 Spinal Tap f7C ** 4
404 Spinal tap RH f7B+ * 2
405 Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 86
406 Slim shady (sit start) f7A ** 104
407 Real Slim Shady f7A+ *** 39
408 Real Slim Shady (Left Hand) f7B *** 4
409 Intermittent Crack f5+ 50
410 Not to be Taken Away f5 61
411 Roadside Wall f7C+ 1
412 Roadside Arete f5 32
413 62. Roadside Flutings
-
f5 1
  UNSORTED
415 Problem 61 f4 3
416 Perpetual Motion
-
f7C **  
417 Problem 63
-
f4 7
418 Problem 12
-
f6B 1
419 Problem 40 f6C ** 1
420 Snail Boulder f5 1
421 38. Undercut Walls f6A 1
422 39. Traverse of Undercut Walls f6A 1

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