Climbs 289
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 -----SHAFTOE NORTH---- 
 THE RIFT 
3First Problemf6A 6
4Problem 5
-
f5 13
5Problem 6f6A 5
6Problem 7f5+ 5
7Problem 8f6A 5
8Problem 10f6C 2
9The Second Nosef6B 4
 THE PUDDING STONE 
11Problem 1f4+ 16
12Problem 2
-
f5 26
13Pudding Fillerf4 3
14Problem 3f6C 12
 NORTH BUTTRESS 
16Short Wall
-
f4 21
17Merry Dancersf6A 7
18Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
19Mini Powerf6C 10
20Aurora Borealisf4 4
21Northern Frightsf5+ 2
 ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS 
23Problem 10f5 67
24Pianof7B 3
25Fingersf7A 5
26The Long Reach
-
f6A 41
27The Long Reach SDSf7B 12
28Slapperf7A 178
29Clamperf7A+ 26
30Corner Crack
-
f4+ 48
31Problem 18f5 36
32Problem 19f5+ 25
33Classic Arete
-
f6A 100
34Shaftoe Blocf6C 4
35Problem 21f5+ 62
36Problem 22f5+ 44
37Problem 23f6A+ 36
38Problem 24f5+ 17
 SIX PACK 
40Six Pack Circuitf6B 10
41Lip Tripf6A+ 10
42Alexisf6B+ 14
 PUNISHMENT BLOCK 
44Green Line
-
f4+ 11
45Problem 29
-
f4 19
46Problem 30
-
f4 17
47Problem 32
-
f5+ 15
48Problem 33f7A 2
 DOLPHIN 
50Problem 36f6C 4
 THE INCLINED SLAB 
52Problem 38
-
f4+ 28
 GRINDSTONE 
 JUBILEE BOULDER 
 -----CENTRAL AREA----- 
 SALTER'S NICK 
57In the Nickf6A+ 3
58Sharp Arete
-
f6A 17
59Salt n Pepperf5+ 15
60Salt n Pepper Right Hand Sidef6A 4
61'S' Crack
-
f4 33
62Central Traversef6C 4
63Right-hand Traversef5+ 5
64Problem 10f5+ 5
65Small Boulder
-
f5 13
66Small Fryf4+ 2
67Syco Sheepf6C *4
68Full Nettle Jacketf5+ 3
69Finger Bowl
-
f4 12
70Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 8
71Problem 9f6C 2
 LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER 
73Problem 17
-
f4+ 52
74Problem 18
-
f5+ 43
75Problem 19
-
f5+ 35
76Problem 20
-
f5 17
77Problem 20af6A+ 4
78Sunshowerf6A 7
79Rainshowerf6B 6
 LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE 
81Lost Slabf4 36
82Lost Groove
-
f4 52
83Axe Head
-
f6A 75
84Stone Age Manf7A+ 9
85Lost Arrowheadf6C 24
86Neolithic Man
-
f6B 35
87Cave Dwellerf7A+ 33
88Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man LinkV10 1
 CRUCIFIX BOULDER 
90Christmas Timef4 3
91Problem 31f6A 1
92Crucifix Crackf5 15
93Problem 33f5 3
94Problem 34f6C 2
 OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER) 
 BOULDER IN THE WOODS 
 GATEWAY BUTTRESSES 
98Mrs Mops Problem 40f4 37
99Mrs Mops Problem 41f4 43
100Mrs Mops Problem 42f4 40
101Mrs Mops Problem 43f4 31
 THE RAVINE 
103Shallow Groove
-
f4 95
104Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 94
105Side Wall
-
f4 91
106Hidden Crackf6A 21
107Young's Aretef6B 18
108Easy Wall
-
f4 55
109Crack One
-
f5 62
110No Need for Speedf6C+ 7
111Smooth Wallf7A 44
112Crack Two
-
f4 89
113Buford T Justicef6C+ 61
114Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 68
115Problem 54f5+ 35
116Way Cool
-
f5 91
117Problem 56
-
f6A 44
118Problem 57
-
f5 38
119Low Level Traverse
-
f4 16
120Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 13
 THE BIG BIRCH 
122Problem 61
-
f4+ 5
123Problem 63f4 6
124Branch Leftf6A 3
125Branch Rightf6B 3
126Branch Right SDSf6C 2
127The Mantelf7A+ 4
 -----WESTERN EDGES----- 
 FONT BOULDER 
130Bleaustardf6A+ 31
131Purely Belterf8A **26
132Suprising Solutionf7A 97
133Font Centref7A 17
134Incipient Crackf6A 88
135Incipient Crack (sit start)f7A ***114
136Problem 5f6A 44
137Problem 5 Sit Startf6B 25
138Short Crack
-
f4+ 61
139Little Prowf6A 40
140Cuvier
-
f6A 47
141Final Prow
-
f4+ 47
142Font Traversef6C 64
143Reverse Traversef6B 8
 THE BUSINESS 
145Problem 14f7A 7
 STOLEN FROM IVOR 
147Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
148Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
149Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
150Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
151Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
152Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
153Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
 MINI OBELISK 
155Cliff's Slab
-
f4 23
 ASTRO 
 HAIR LIP 
 SMITH'S ROCKS 
159The Lipf7A 2
160The Scoop
-
f6B 31
161The Mask
-
f6C+ 26
162The Crackf4 18
163Milk and Cookiesf6A+ 12
164Knee Crackerf6A+ 8
165The Bunkerf6B 10
166The Edge
-
f6A 21
167Weasels Ripped my Fleshf6C 7
168Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 41
169Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 20
170Clampf5+ **11
171Clamp SSf6C 1
172City of Sand
-
f6B 8
173Problem 38
-
f6C 10
174Pebble Slabf6C 7
175Proposalf6C 21
 TURTLE ROCK 
177Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 15
178Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 12
179Underbelly
-
f5 16
180Soft Centref6A 42
181The Bossf7B **29
182Blood Sportf8A+ 7
183Bloodsport Left Hand Finishf8B+ 1
184Hard Shellf6C 13
185Hard Shell sit startf7A *2
186Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 49
187Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light)f6C *2
 NEB BOULDER 
189Power is Nothing Without Controlf7C ***9
190Crease Classic
-
f6B 50
191Broken Hearts Are For Assholesf7A+ 74
192The Neb Roof
-
f6C 120
193The Originalf6A **61
194Perverse Classicf6C *11
195Problem 58
-
f6A 14
196Problem 59
-
f5+ 12
197Sloper Masterclassf5+ ***190
198Problem 61
-
f6A 19
199Problem 62
-
f6B 43
200Aside
-
f6B 38
201Pure Endurancef7A 2
202All Neb's Asidef7A+ 2
203Nebs Extentionf7A 1
204Nebs-Assholef7A 1
205Nebs-Sloperf6C+ 1
 -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT----- 
 DEAD PINE BUTTRESS 
208The Alligatorf5+ 2
209The Alligator Right-Handf6B 1
210Clueless Caiman Huntersf6A+ 1
211Living Fossilf6A 1
212Lightning Never Strikes Twicef5 2
213Problem 10
-
f5+ 3
214The Cowf6A  
 DISHPAN ALLEY 
216East Wall
-
f5+ 28
217Arete
-
f6A 24
218Problem 18
-
f4 44
219Problem 19f4+ 32
220Problem 20f5+ *19
221Problem 21
-
f5+ 28
222Problem 22
-
f5+ 41
223Rising Damp
-
f6B 25
224Corner
-
f4+ 29
225Mantel Madnessf6C ***38
226Problem 29
-
f5+ 14
22727. Troy's Eliminatef6B 1
228Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 10
229Problem 31
-
f5+ 11
23028. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 1
231Problem 32
-
f4 17
 MAIN BUTTRESS 
233Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
234Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 32
235Viagra Plus Sit Startf7B 43
236Sloppy Ploppinf6C 7
237Sloppy Ploppin S.Sf7C+ 1
238Central Wallf7B+ 3
239Main Wall
-
f6C 12
240Main Wall Sit Startf7B+ **23
241Timmy Tip Toesf7A+ *55
242Magic Fluting
-
f5 108
 FLUTED WALL 
244The Stingf6A+ 8
245Buzzingf6C 11
246Buzzing (sit start)f7A **7
 THE COB 
248Problem 48
-
f5+ 23
249Cob Arete
-
f5 117
250Problem 50
-
f6A 42
251Hound Dogf7A+ 13
252Killer Queenf6C 6
253Hip Hop
-
f6A 48
254Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 61
255The Linkf6A 8
 SHIP'S BAIT CABIN 
257Problem 58f4 77
258Problem 59f4 69
259Problem 60f5 68
260The Thug
-
f5+ 44
261The Technician
-
f5+ 34
262Lip Traverse
-
f4 23
263Port
-
f5+ 69
264Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 64
265Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A *42
266Wolf
-
f6B 30
267Starboard
-
f5 80
268Bow Wave
-
f6A 44
269Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 22
270Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 28
271Bait Boxedf7A ***1
 SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES 
273Cow Patf5+ 5
 -----SHAFTOE SOUTH----- 
 RUDDER'S BOULDERS 
276Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
 THE SEADOG BOULDER 
 PUNCH BOWL 
279Black Puddingf7A *1
280Problem 7f6C 2
281Duvel 8.5%f7A 25
282The Real Duvel 8.5%f6C+ 2
283Problem 10f5+ 14
284Canine
-
f6A 12
2850% Alcoholf7A 3
286Problem 12f6C 1
 CAVE BUTTRESS 
288Flake Crackf4+ 12
289Pocket Rocketf7A 39
290The Wallf4+ 4
291Orangutanf6C 2
 LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS 
293The Scoop
-
f4 4
294The Wallf6B 3
295Little Crackf4 2
296Little Johnf5 2
297Slab Arete
-
f4 6
298Little and Oftenf6B+ *6
299Problem 26
-
f4+ 6
 LONG WALL 
3013 Fingers, 1 Pebble.f6C 2
302Wickermanf6B 4
303Wickerman SSf6B+ 5
304Wicker aretef6C 3
305Wickerman Warm Upf4 3
 MINISCULE MATTERHORN 
307Problem 28
-
f4 10
308Problem 29
-
f4 7
 Cafe Noir 
310Cafe NoirE4 5c **1
 CENTRAL ALCOVE 
312Problem 34
-
f4 5
313The antlerf7A 1
314Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kidf6C+ 7
 TWO TIER BOULDER 
316Tears in Heavenf5+ 5
317River of Tearsf7B+ *1
318Tears on the Dance Floorf6B+ 3
319Edge of Sanityf5 4
320Two Tier Crackf4+  
 CYCLOPS BUTTRESS 
322Green Wallf4 10
323Left Arete
-
f4+ 10
324Cyclops Wallf5 6
325Right Aretef5 4
326The Scoopf4+ 3
327Side Wallf4+ 3
 HALFWAY HOUSE 
 ROADSIDE BOULDER 
330The lip sit startf7A+ 2
331Spinal Tapf7C **4
332Spinal tap RHf7B+ *2
333Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 75
334Slim shady (sit start)f7A **96
335Real Slim Shadyf7A+ ***44
336Real Slim Shady (Left Hand)f7B ***4
337Intermittent Crackf5+ 43
338Not to be Taken Awayf5 51
339Roadside Wallf7C+ 1
340Roadside Aretef5 28
 UNSORTED 
342Problem 61f4 3
343Perpetual Motion
-
f7C ** 
344Problem 63
-
f4 7
345Problem 12
-
f6B 1

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