Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 407
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

View Stats

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road). 

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Access Banned

We're currently in isolation here at shaftoe. But unfortunately we still have to work every day as it's our busiest time of year lambing time. Myself and the other workers are having to use the same gates as the public and the climbers. We use these gates more than once a day and none of us can afford to be poorly at this time of year. We would like the crags to remain off limits until this awful pandemic is over and want our own and everyone else's family to remain safe.

Thank you for you time.

Stay safe yourself and our best wishes to you and yours in this awful time.

Dan East shaftoe

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
Keith-Getoutadventures - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  -----SHAFTOE NORTH----
  THE RIFT
3 First Problem f6A 6
4 Problem 5
-
f5 15
5 Problem 6 f6A 6
6 Problem 7 f5+ 6
7 Problem 8 f6A 6
8 Problem 10 f6C 2
9 The Second Nose f6B 4
10 16. Broken Lip f6A 3
11 Problem 2 V7  
12 Problem 3 V6  
13 Perpetual Motion V9  
14 Problem 9 V4  
15 Problem 11 V6  
16 Schism V6  
17 Guns Don't Kill People f7A+ 1
18 Rappers Do f6C+ 2
  THE PUDDING STONE
20 Problem 1 f4+ 19
21 Problem 2
-
f5 38
22 Pudding Filler f4 5
23 Problem 3 f6C 13
  NORTH BUTTRESS
25 Short Wall
-
f4 28
26 Merry Dancers f6A 9
27 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
28 Mini Power f6C 11
29 Aurora Borealis f4 9
30 Northern Frights f5+ 3
  ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS
32 Problem 10 f5 105
33 Piano f7B 3
34 Fingers f7A 18
35 The Long Reach
-
f6A 53
36 The Long Reach SDS f7B 17
37 Slapper f7A 268
38 Clamper f7A+ 39
39 Corner Crack
-
f4+ 65
40 Problem 18 f5 46
41 Problem 19 f5+ 30
42 Classic Arete
-
f6A 136
43 Shaftoe Bloc f6C 6
44 Problem 21 f5+ 84
45 Problem 22 f5+ 60
46 Problem 23 f6A+ 43
47 Problem 24 f5+ 19
48 17. Arete Land Traverse f6A+ 2
49 Oh Grow Up f7A+ 6
  SIX PACK
51 Six Pack Circuit f6B 12
52 Lip Trip f6A+ 16
53 Alexis f6B+ 18
  PUNISHMENT BLOCK
55 Green Line
-
f4+ 17
56 Problem 29
-
f4 27
57 Problem 30
-
f4 23
58 Problem 31 (Punishment Block) f7B 4
59 Problem 32
-
f5+ 17
60 Problem 33 f7A 4
61 Do You Have Nothing Better To Do? f7B+ 2
62 Problem 34 (Punishment Mantel) f6C 2
63 Problem 37 V8  
  DOLPHIN
65 Problem 36 f6C 5
  THE INCLINED SLAB
67 Problem 38
-
f4+ 38
  GRINDSTONE
69 39. From the Left f7A  
70 40 From the Right f6C 1
71 41. Total Traverse f7A  
  JUBILEE BOULDER
73 Jubilee Traverse f6C+  
  -----CENTRAL AREA-----
  SALTER'S NICK
76 In the Nick f6A+ 5
77 Sharp Arete
-
f6A 25
78 Salt n Pepper f5+ 17
79 Salt n Pepper Right Hand Side f6A 5
80 'S' Crack
-
f4 45
81 Central Traverse f6C 6
82 Right-hand Traverse f5+ 7
83 Problem 10 f5+ 8
84 Small Boulder
-
f5 14
85 Small Fry f4+ 3
86 Syco Sheep f6C * 4
87 Full Nettle Jacket f5+ 4
88 Finger Bowl
-
f4 13
89 Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 9
90 Problem 9 f6C 2
91 Combined Traverse V6  
  LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER
93 Problem 17
-
f4+ 83
94 Problem 18
-
f5+ 66
95 Problem 19
-
f5+ 51
96 Problem 20
-
f5 26
97 Problem 20a f6A+ 8
98 Sunshower f6A 12
99 Rainshower f6B 7
  LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE
101 Lost Slab f4 49
102 Lost Groove
-
f4 71
103 Axe Head
-
f6A 116
104 Stone Age Man f7A+ 21
105 Lost Arrowhead f6C 40
106 Neolithic Man
-
f6B 55
107 Cave Dweller f7A+ 47
108 Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man Link V10 4
109 Broken Arrow f7C 11
110 California Man f7C * 1
  CRUCIFIX BOULDER
112 Christmas Time f4 4
113 Problem 31 f6A 3
114 Crucifix Crack f5 22
115 Problem 33 f5 7
116 Problem 34 f6C 5
  OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER)
118 Oyster Traverse
-
f6A 1
  BOULDER IN THE WOODS
120 36. Traverse in the Woods f7A 1
121 Ponytail bongo f6C 1
  GATEWAY BUTTRESSES
123 Problem 37 f7A 2
124 Mrs Mops Problem 40 f4 49
125 Mrs Mops Problem 41 f4 55
126 Mrs Mops Problem 42 f4 49
127 Mrs Mops Problem 43 f4 40
128 Thin Crack f4 3
  THE RAVINE
130 Shallow Groove
-
f4 140
131 Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 142
132 Side Wall
-
f4 129
133 Hidden Crack f6A 36
134 Young's Arete f6B 26
135 Easy Wall
-
f4 74
136 Crack One
-
f5 91
137 No Need for Speed f6C+ 8
138 Smooth Wall f7A 56
139 Crack Two
-
f4 131
140 Buford T Justice f6C+ 80
141 Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 98
142 Problem 54 f5+ 49
143 Way Cool
-
f5 133
144 Problem 56
-
f6A 60
145 Problem 57
-
f5 49
146 Low Level Traverse
-
f4 21
147 Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 16
148 Teeter f4+ 1
149 Pebble Dash f4+ * 4
150 Thumbs f5+ ** 3
  THE BIG BIRCH
152 Problem 61
-
f4+ 6
153 Problem 63 f4 8
154 Branch Left f6A 4
Climb name Grade
155 Branch Right f6B 4
156 Branch Right SDS f6C 2
157 The Mantel f7A+ 4
158 58. Left Arete Big Birch f6A 1
159 59. Pinch and Sloper f6A 1
160 60. Right Arete - The Big Birch f6B 1
161 Problem 62 (The Big Birch)
-
f5 1
162 Problem 68 (the Big Birch)
-
f5+ 1
163 71. The Shelf (the Big Birch)
-
f5 1
164 Last of the Summer Wine f7A 1
  -----WESTERN EDGES-----
  FONT BOULDER
167 Bleaustard f6A+ 34
168 Purely Belter f7C ** 66
169 Suprising Solution f7A 126
170 Font Centre f7A 24
171 Incipient Crack f6A 120
172 Incipient Crack (sit start) f7A *** 147
173 Problem 5 f6A 56
174 Problem 5 Sit Start f6B 37
175 Short Crack
-
f4+ 80
176 Little Prow f6A 57
177 Cuvier
-
f6A 58
178 Final Prow
-
f4+ 57
179 Font Traverse f6C 74
180 Reverse Traverse f6B 10
181 Gnarly Start f7A ** 3
182 Purely Belta f7C+ ** 1
183 Strenuous Solution f7A 2
184 Belter Solution * f7A+ *  
  THE BUSINESS
186 Problem 14 f7A 14
187 Problem 15 f7A 1
  STOLEN FROM IVOR
189 Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
190 Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
191 Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
192 Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
193 Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
194 Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
195 Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
  MINI OBELISK
197 Cliff's Slab
-
f4 27
  ASTRO
199 24. Astro Traverse
-
f7A  
  HAIR LIP
201 25. Hair Lip Traverse
-
f6A  
202 26. Hair Lip Traverse with lower feet.
-
f5+ 1
  SMITH'S ROCKS
204 The Lip f7A 9
205 The Scoop
-
f6B 41
206 The Mask
-
f6C+ 31
207 The Crack f4 25
208 Milk and Cookies f6A+ 13
209 Knee Cracker f6A+ 15
210 The Bunker f6B 13
211 The Edge
-
f6A 22
212 Weasels Ripped my Flesh f6C 9
213 Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 61
214 Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 29
215 Clamp f5+ ** 24
216 Clamp SS f6C 1
217 City of Sand
-
f6B 10
218 Problem 38
-
f6C 14
219 Pebble Slab f6C 11
220 Proposal f6C 32
221 Smith’s Rocks Traverse f7A * 1
  TURTLE ROCK
223 Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 21
224 Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 15
225 Underbelly
-
f5 18
226 Soft Centre f6A 58
227 The Boss f7B ** 40
228 Blood Sport f8A+ 7
229 Bloodsport Left Hand Finish f8B+ 1
230 Hard Shell f6C 14
231 Hard Shell sit start f7A * 3
232 Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 60
233 Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light) f6C * 3
234 Galapagos Turtle
-
E5 6a 1
  NEB BOULDER
236 Power is Nothing Without Control f7C *** 18
237 Crease Classic
-
f6B 58
238 Broken Hearts Are For Assholes f7A+ 98
239 The Neb Roof
-
f6C 155
240 The Original f6A ** 84
241 Perverse Classic f6C * 12
242 Problem 58
-
f6A 15
243 Problem 59
-
f5+ 14
244 Sloper Masterclass f5+ *** 244
245 Problem 61
-
f6A 22
246 Problem 62
-
f6B 57
247 Aside
-
f6B 52
248 Pure Endurance f7A 3
249 All Neb's Aside f7A+ 4
250 Nebs Extention f7A 2
251 Nebs-Asshole f7A 5
252 Nebs-Sloper f6C+ 4
253 65. Flat Out (Neb Boulder)
-
f7A 1
254 All Powered out! f7C+ 1
255 Broken hearts aside f7B * 2
256 The Nebber Ending Story f7C+ ** 1
257 Problem 52 V8 2
  -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----
  DEAD PINE BUTTRESS
260 The Alligator f5+ 5
261 The Alligator Right-Hand f6B 2
262 Clueless Caiman Hunters f6A+ 1
263 Living Fossil f6A 2
264 Lightning Never Strikes Twice f5 3
265 Problem 10
-
f5+ 4
266 The Cow f6A 1
267 11. Pygmy Traverse (Pygmy Rocks)
-
f6A 1
268 12. Pygmy Rocks
-
f6A 1
269 Dead Pine Problem 4
-
f6B 1
270 Dead Pine Problem 5
-
f6B 1
271 Dead Pine Problem 6
-
f6B 1
272 Dead Pine Problem 7
-
f6B 1
273 Dead Pine Problem 8
-
f6B 1
274 Dead Pine Problem 9
-
f6B 1
  DISHPAN ALLEY
276 East Wall
-
f5+ 35
277 Arete
-
f6A 34
278 Problem 18
-
f4 56
279 Problem 19 f4+ 50
280 Problem 20 f5+ * 28
281 Problem 21
-
f5+ 42
282 Problem 22
-
f5+ 53
283 Rising Damp
-
f6B 33
284 Corner
-
f4+ 39
285 Mantel Madness f6C *** 41
286 Problem 29
-
f5+ 16
287 27. Troy's Eliminate f6B 2
288 Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 12
289 Problem 31
-
f5+ 17
290 28. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 3
291 Problem 32
-
f4 22
292 18a. Crimps (Dishpan Alley) f6A 1
293 33. There and Back (Dishpan Alley) f6C 1
294 Problem 14 (The Prow) V6 1
295 Rising Cramp V6  
  MAIN BUTTRESS
297 Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
298 Viagra
-
f6C 1
299 Viagra SS V8 2
300 Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 44
301 Viagra Plus Sit Start f7B 61
302 Sloppy Ploppin f6C 8
303 Sloppy Ploppin S.S f7C+ 2
304 Central Wall f7B+ 4
305 Main Wall
-
f6C 14
306 Main Wall Sit Start f7B+ ** 23
307 Timmy Tip Toes f7A+ * 65
308 Magic Fluting
-
f5 151
Climb name Grade
309 38. Vorsprung Durch Technik f8A ***  
310 43. Wall f5+ 1
311 44. Main Buttress R-L Traverse f6C  
312 45. The Wasp
-
f6B+ 1
313 Problem 41 V7  
  FLUTED WALL
315 The Sting f6A+ 12
316 Buzzing f6C 14
317 Buzzing (sit start) f7A ** 12
318 47a. Fluted Wall Traverse f6B+  
  THE COB
320 Problem 48
-
f5+ 25
321 Cob Arete
-
f5 166
322 Problem 50
-
f6A 50
323 Hound Dog f7A+ 25
324 Killer Queen f6C 7
325 Hip Hop
-
f6A 51
326 Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 78
327 The Link f6A 7
328 54. Korn on the Cob
-
f6B 1
329 Bait Boxed V6  
  SHIP'S BAIT CABIN
331 Problem 58 f4 98
332 Problem 59 f4 86
333 Problem 60 f5 86
334 The Thug
-
f5+ 48
335 The Technician
-
f5+ 39
336 Lip Traverse
-
f4 26
337 Port
-
f5+ 84
338 Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 80
339 Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A * 49
340 Wolf
-
f6B 35
341 Starboard f5 99
342 Bow Wave
-
f6A 54
343 Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 25
344 Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 30
345 Bait Boxed f7A *** 2
  SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES
347 Cow Pat f5+ 6
348 69. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f4+ 1
349 70. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5 1
350 71. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5+ 1
351 72. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f6C 1
352 A Week in Provence
-
f7C 4
353 74. Provence Traverse
-
f5+ 1
354 75. Weakling in Provence
-
f6A 1
  -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----
  RUDDER'S BOULDERS
357 Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
358 2. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
359 3. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
360 4. Rudder's Boulders
-
f6A 1
  THE SEADOG BOULDER
362 Seadog Traverse
-
f6B 1
  PUNCH BOWL
364 Black Pudding f7A * 3
365 Problem 7 f6C 5
366 Duvel 8.5% f7A 51
367 The Real Duvel 8.5% f6C+ 7
368 Problem 10 f5+ 22
369 Canine
-
f6A 24
370 0% Alcohol f7A 5
371 Problem 12 f6C 3
372 9. Punchbowl
-
f5+ 2
373 The Real Duvel 8.5% (extension) f6C+ 1
374 Mantel Pudding f7A+ 1
375 Mantel Pudding (alt.) f7A 1
  CAVE BUTTRESS
377 Flake Crack f4+ 18
378 Pocket Rocket f7A 54
379 The Wall f4+ 7
380 Orangutan f6C 3
381 16. feeding the Baboons
-
f7A  
382 17. The Eyes
-
f6C  
383 18. Right-hand Crack
-
f7A+  
  LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS
385 The Scoop
-
f4 4
386 The Wall f6B 3
387 Little Crack f4 2
388 Little John f5 2
389 Slab Arete
-
f4 7
390 Little and Often f6B+ * 3
391 Problem 26
-
f4+ 7
  LONG WALL
393 3 Fingers, 1 Pebble. f6C 3
394 Wickerman f6B 5
395 Wickerman SS f6B+ 4
396 Wicker arete f6C 4
397 Wickerman Warm Up f4 2
398 27. Long Wall Traverse
-
f5+ 3
399 (27. Variation) Long Wall Lip Traverse
-
f7A  
400 Long Wall Mantel
-
V6  
  MINISCULE MATTERHORN
402 Problem 28
-
f4 10
403 Problem 29
-
f4 7
  Cafe Noir
405 Cafe Noir E4 5c ** 4
406 Cream Topping
-
E5 6c  
  CENTRAL ALCOVE
408 Problem 34
-
f4 6
409 The antler f7A 2
410 Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kid f6C+ 11
411 30. Short Left Wall
-
f4 1
412 31. Jam Crack f4 1
413 32. Pegasus
-
f4+ 1
414 33. Behind the Tree
-
f5+ 1
  TWO TIER BOULDER
416 Tears in Heaven f5+ 7
417 River of Tears f7B+ * 5
418 Tears on the Dance Floor f6B+ 6
419 Tears on the Dance Floor SS f7A 2
420 Edge of Sanity f5 6
421 Two Tier Crack f4+ 1
422 Two Tears f7A+ 2
423 38. A Tale of Two Cities
-
f5+ 2
424 42. Tuppence Ha'penny
-
f4+ 1
425 47. Two a Penny
-
f5+ 2
426 Shafted
-
E3 5c 1
  CYCLOPS BUTTRESS
428 Green Wall f4 12
429 Left Arete
-
f4+ 11
430 Cyclops Wall f5 8
431 Right Arete f5 5
432 The Scoop f4+ 4
433 Side Wall f4+ 4
  HALFWAY HOUSE
435 54. Halfway House
-
f5 1
436 55. Halfway House Arete
-
f5 1
  ROADSIDE BOULDER
438 The lip sit start f7A+ 7
439 Spinal Tap f7C ** 4
440 Spinal tap RH f7B+ * 4
441 Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 106
442 Slim shady (sit start) f7A ** 137
443 Real Slim Shady f7A+ *** 52
444 Real Slim Shady (Left Hand) f7B *** 6
445 Intermittent Crack f5+ 60
446 Not to be Taken Away f5 80
447 Roadside Wall f7C+ 1
448 Roadside Arete f5 35
449 62. Roadside Flutings
-
f5 1
450 Capability Brawn  V13  
451 Prawn V4 * 1
452 King Prawn V5 1
  UNSORTED
454 Problem 61 f4 3
455 Perpetual Motion
-
f7C **  
456 Problem 63
-
f4 7
457 Problem 12
-
f6B 1
458 Problem 40 f6C ** 1
459 Snail Boulder f5 1
460 38. Undercut Walls f6A 1
461 39. Traverse of Undercut Walls f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers rodge and spiderz