Climbs 402
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

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Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
Keith-Getoutadventures - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  -----SHAFTOE NORTH----
  THE RIFT
3 First Problem f6A 6
4 Problem 5
-
f5 15
5 Problem 6 f6A 6
6 Problem 7 f5+ 6
7 Problem 8 f6A 6
8 Problem 10 f6C 2
9 The Second Nose f6B 4
10 16. Broken Lip f6A 3
11 Problem 2 V7  
12 Problem 3 V6  
13 Perpetual Motion V9  
14 Problem 9 V4  
15 Problem 11 V6  
16 Schism V6  
  THE PUDDING STONE
18 Problem 1 f4+ 19
19 Problem 2
-
f5 37
20 Pudding Filler f4 5
21 Problem 3 f6C 13
  NORTH BUTTRESS
23 Short Wall
-
f4 28
24 Merry Dancers f6A 9
25 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
26 Mini Power f6C 11
27 Aurora Borealis f4 9
28 Northern Frights f5+ 3
  ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS
30 Problem 10 f5 103
31 Piano f7B 3
32 Fingers f7A 18
33 The Long Reach
-
f6A 53
34 The Long Reach SDS f7B 17
35 Slapper f7A 256
36 Clamper f7A+ 35
37 Corner Crack
-
f4+ 66
38 Problem 18 f5 46
39 Problem 19 f5+ 30
40 Classic Arete
-
f6A 134
41 Shaftoe Bloc f6C 7
42 Problem 21 f5+ 82
43 Problem 22 f5+ 58
44 Problem 23 f6A+ 44
45 Problem 24 f5+ 19
46 17. Arete Land Traverse f6A+ 1
47 Oh Grow Up f7A+ 5
  SIX PACK
49 Six Pack Circuit f6B 12
50 Lip Trip f6A+ 16
51 Alexis f6B+ 18
  PUNISHMENT BLOCK
53 Green Line
-
f4+ 17
54 Problem 29
-
f4 27
55 Problem 30
-
f4 23
56 Problem 31 (Punishment Block) f7B 4
57 Problem 32
-
f5+ 17
58 Problem 33 f7A 4
59 Do You Have Nothing Better To Do? f7B+ 2
60 Problem 34 (Punishment Mantel) f6C 2
61 Problem 37 V8  
  DOLPHIN
63 Problem 36 f6C 5
  THE INCLINED SLAB
65 Problem 38
-
f4+ 38
  GRINDSTONE
67 39. From the Left f7A  
68 40 From the Right f6C 1
69 41. Total Traverse f7A  
  JUBILEE BOULDER
71 Jubilee Traverse f6C+  
  -----CENTRAL AREA-----
  SALTER'S NICK
74 In the Nick f6A+ 5
75 Sharp Arete
-
f6A 25
76 Salt n Pepper f5+ 17
77 Salt n Pepper Right Hand Side f6A 5
78 'S' Crack
-
f4 46
79 Central Traverse f6C 5
80 Right-hand Traverse f5+ 7
81 Problem 10 f5+ 8
82 Small Boulder
-
f5 14
83 Small Fry f4+ 3
84 Syco Sheep f6C * 4
85 Full Nettle Jacket f5+ 4
86 Finger Bowl
-
f4 13
87 Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 9
88 Problem 9 f6C 2
89 Combined Traverse V6  
  LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER
91 Problem 17
-
f4+ 82
92 Problem 18
-
f5+ 66
93 Problem 19
-
f5+ 51
94 Problem 20
-
f5 26
95 Problem 20a f6A+ 9
96 Sunshower f6A 12
97 Rainshower f6B 7
  LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE
99 Lost Slab f4 49
100 Lost Groove
-
f4 69
101 Axe Head
-
f6A 114
102 Stone Age Man f7A+ 21
103 Lost Arrowhead f6C 39
104 Neolithic Man
-
f6B 54
105 Cave Dweller f7A+ 46
106 Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man Link V10 4
107 Broken Arrow f7C 11
108 California Man f7C * 1
  CRUCIFIX BOULDER
110 Christmas Time f4 4
111 Problem 31 f6A 3
112 Crucifix Crack f5 21
113 Problem 33 f5 7
114 Problem 34 f6C 3
  OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER)
116 Oyster Traverse
-
f6A 1
  BOULDER IN THE WOODS
118 36. Traverse in the Woods f7A 1
119 Ponytail bongo f6C 1
  GATEWAY BUTTRESSES
121 Problem 37 f7A 2
122 Mrs Mops Problem 40 f4 49
123 Mrs Mops Problem 41 f4 55
124 Mrs Mops Problem 42 f4 50
125 Mrs Mops Problem 43 f4 40
126 Thin Crack * f4 3
  THE RAVINE
128 Shallow Groove
-
f4 138
129 Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 139
130 Side Wall
-
f4 128
131 Hidden Crack f6A 36
132 Young's Arete f6B 25
133 Easy Wall
-
f4 75
134 Crack One
-
f5 92
135 No Need for Speed f6C+ 8
136 Smooth Wall f7A 55
137 Crack Two
-
f4 133
138 Buford T Justice f6C+ 79
139 Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 99
140 Problem 54 f5+ 50
141 Way Cool
-
f5 134
142 Problem 56
-
f6A 60
143 Problem 57
-
f5 50
144 Low Level Traverse
-
f4 22
145 Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 17
146 Teeter * f4+ 1
147 Pebble Dash * f4+ * 4
148 Thumbs * f5+ ** 3
  THE BIG BIRCH
150 Problem 61
-
f4+ 6
151 Problem 63 f4 8
152 Branch Left f6A 4
Climb name Grade
153 Branch Right f6B 4
154 Branch Right SDS f6C 2
155 The Mantel f7A+ 4
156 58. Left Arete Big Birch f6A 1
157 59. Pinch and Sloper f6A 1
158 60. Right Arete - The Big Birch f6B 1
159 Problem 62 (The Big Birch)
-
f5 1
160 Problem 68 (the Big Birch)
-
f5+ 1
161 71. The Shelf (the Big Birch)
-
f5 1
162 Last of the Summer Wine f7A 1
  -----WESTERN EDGES-----
  FONT BOULDER
165 Bleaustard f6A+ 34
166 Purely Belter f7C ** 54
167 Suprising Solution f7A 121
168 Font Centre f7A 23
169 Incipient Crack f6A 114
170 Incipient Crack (sit start) f7A *** 140
171 Problem 5 f6A 56
172 Problem 5 Sit Start f6B 37
173 Short Crack
-
f4+ 78
174 Little Prow f6A 55
175 Cuvier
-
f6A 55
176 Final Prow
-
f4+ 57
177 Font Traverse f6C 74
178 Reverse Traverse f6B 10
179 Gnarly Start f7A ** 3
  THE BUSINESS
181 Problem 14 f7A 15
182 Problem 15 f7A 1
  STOLEN FROM IVOR
184 Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
185 Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
186 Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
187 Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
188 Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
189 Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
190 Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
  MINI OBELISK
192 Cliff's Slab
-
f4 27
  ASTRO
194 24. Astro Traverse
-
f7A  
  HAIR LIP
196 25. Hair Lip Traverse
-
f6A  
197 26. Hair Lip Traverse with lower feet.
-
f5+ 1
  SMITH'S ROCKS
199 The Lip f7A 9
200 The Scoop
-
f6B 41
201 The Mask
-
f6C+ 31
202 The Crack f4 25
203 Milk and Cookies f6A+ 13
204 Knee Cracker f6A+ 14
205 The Bunker f6B 13
206 The Edge
-
f6A 22
207 Weasels Ripped my Flesh f6C 9
208 Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 61
209 Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 29
210 Clamp f5+ ** 24
211 Clamp SS f6C 1
212 City of Sand
-
f6B 10
213 Problem 38
-
f6C 14
214 Pebble Slab f6C 11
215 Proposal f6C 31
216 Smith’s Rocks Traverse f7A * 1
  TURTLE ROCK
218 Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 20
219 Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 15
220 Underbelly
-
f5 18
221 Soft Centre f6A 55
222 The Boss f7B ** 33
223 Blood Sport f8A+ 6
224 Bloodsport Left Hand Finish f8B+ 1
225 Hard Shell f6C 14
226 Hard Shell sit start f7A * 3
227 Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 59
228 Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light) f6C * 3
229 Galapagos Turtle
-
E5 6a 1
  NEB BOULDER
231 Power is Nothing Without Control f7C *** 17
232 Crease Classic
-
f6B 59
233 Broken Hearts Are For Assholes f7A+ 89
234 The Neb Roof
-
f6C 146
235 The Original f6A ** 79
236 Perverse Classic f6C * 11
237 Problem 58
-
f6A 15
238 Problem 59
-
f5+ 14
239 Sloper Masterclass f5+ *** 236
240 Problem 61
-
f6A 22
241 Problem 62
-
f6B 57
242 Aside
-
f6B 51
243 Pure Endurance f7A 3
244 All Neb's Aside f7A+ 4
245 Nebs Extention f7A 1
246 Nebs-Asshole f7A 5
247 Nebs-Sloper f6C+ 4
248 65. Flat Out (Neb Boulder)
-
f7A 1
249 All Powered out! f7C+ 1
250 Broken hearts aside f7B * 2
251 The Nebber Ending Story f7C+ ** 1
252 Problem 52 V8 2
  -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----
  DEAD PINE BUTTRESS
255 The Alligator f5+ 4
256 The Alligator Right-Hand f6B 2
257 Clueless Caiman Hunters f6A+ 1
258 Living Fossil f6A 2
259 Lightning Never Strikes Twice f5 3
260 Problem 10
-
f5+ 4
261 The Cow f6A 1
262 11. Pygmy Traverse (Pygmy Rocks)
-
f6A 1
263 12. Pygmy Rocks
-
f6A 1
264 Dead Pine Problem 4
-
f6B 1
265 Dead Pine Problem 5
-
f6B 1
266 Dead Pine Problem 6
-
f6B 1
267 Dead Pine Problem 7
-
f6B 1
268 Dead Pine Problem 8
-
f6B 1
269 Dead Pine Problem 9
-
f6B 1
  DISHPAN ALLEY
271 East Wall
-
f5+ 35
272 Arete
-
f6A 35
273 Problem 18
-
f4 57
274 Problem 19 f4+ 50
275 Problem 20 f5+ * 28
276 Problem 21
-
f5+ 42
277 Problem 22
-
f5+ 52
278 Rising Damp
-
f6B 34
279 Corner
-
f4+ 39
280 Mantel Madness f6C *** 42
281 Problem 29
-
f5+ 17
282 27. Troy's Eliminate f6B 3
283 Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 12
284 Problem 31
-
f5+ 17
285 28. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 3
286 Problem 32
-
f4 22
287 18a. Crimps (Dishpan Alley) f6A 1
288 33. There and Back (Dishpan Alley) f6C 1
289 Problem 14 (The Prow) V6 1
290 Rising Cramp V6  
  MAIN BUTTRESS
292 Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
293 Viagra
-
f6C 1
294 Viagra SS V8 1
295 Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 44
296 Viagra Plus Sit Start f7B 59
297 Sloppy Ploppin f6C 8
298 Sloppy Ploppin S.S f7C+ 2
299 Central Wall f7B+ 4
300 Main Wall
-
f6C 14
301 Main Wall Sit Start f7B+ ** 23
302 Timmy Tip Toes f7A+ * 64
303 Magic Fluting
-
f5 149
304 38. Vorsprung Durch Technik f8A ***  
Climb name Grade
305 43. Wall f5+ 1
306 44. Main Buttress R-L Traverse f6C  
307 45. The Wasp
-
f6B+ 1
308 Problem 41 V7  
  FLUTED WALL
310 The Sting f6A+ 12
311 Buzzing f6C 15
312 Buzzing (sit start) f7A ** 13
313 47a. Fluted Wall Traverse f6B+  
  THE COB
315 Problem 48
-
f5+ 25
316 Cob Arete
-
f5 161
317 Problem 50
-
f6A 50
318 Hound Dog f7A+ 25
319 Killer Queen f6C 7
320 Hip Hop
-
f6A 51
321 Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 77
322 The Link f6A 7
323 54. Korn on the Cob
-
f6B 1
324 Bait Boxed V6  
  SHIP'S BAIT CABIN
326 Problem 58 f4 95
327 Problem 59 f4 85
328 Problem 60 f5 85
329 The Thug
-
f5+ 48
330 The Technician
-
f5+ 39
331 Lip Traverse
-
f4 26
332 Port
-
f5+ 82
333 Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 77
334 Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A * 48
335 Wolf
-
f6B 35
336 Starboard
-
f5 98
337 Bow Wave
-
f6A 54
338 Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 25
339 Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 30
340 Bait Boxed f7A *** 2
  SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES
342 Cow Pat f5+ 6
343 69. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f4+ 1
344 70. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5 1
345 71. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f5+ 1
346 72. Grange Farm Buttress
-
f6C 1
347 A Week in Provence
-
f7C 4
348 74. Provence Traverse
-
f5+ 1
349 75. Weakling in Provence
-
f6A 1
  -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----
  RUDDER'S BOULDERS
352 Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
353 2. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
354 3. Rudder's Boulders
-
f5+ 1
355 4. Rudder's Boulders
-
f6A 1
  THE SEADOG BOULDER
357 Seadog Traverse
-
f6B 1
  PUNCH BOWL
359 Black Pudding f7A * 3
360 Problem 7 f6C 5
361 Duvel 8.5% f7A 47
362 The Real Duvel 8.5% f6C+ 7
363 Problem 10 f5+ 22
364 Canine
-
f6A 23
365 0% Alcohol f7A 6
366 Problem 12 f6C 3
367 9. Punchbowl
-
f5+ 2
368 The Real Duvel 8.5% (extension) f6C+ 1
369 Mantel Pudding f7A+ 1
370 Mantel Pudding (alt.) f7A 1
  CAVE BUTTRESS
372 Flake Crack f4+ 17
373 Pocket Rocket f7A 48
374 The Wall f4+ 6
375 Orangutan f6C 3
376 16. feeding the Baboons
-
f7A  
377 17. The Eyes
-
f6C  
378 18. Right-hand Crack
-
f7A+  
  LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS
380 The Scoop
-
f4 4
381 The Wall f6B 3
382 Little Crack f4 2
383 Little John f5 2
384 Slab Arete
-
f4 7
385 Little and Often f6B+ * 3
386 Problem 26
-
f4+ 7
  LONG WALL
388 3 Fingers, 1 Pebble. f6C 1
389 Wickerman f6B 5
390 Wickerman SS f6B+ 4
391 Wicker arete f6C 2
392 Wickerman Warm Up f4 2
393 27. Long Wall Traverse
-
f5+ 2
394 (27. Variation) Long Wall Lip Traverse
-
f7A  
395 Long Wall Mantel
-
V6  
  MINISCULE MATTERHORN
397 Problem 28
-
f4 10
398 Problem 29
-
f4 7
  Cafe Noir
400 Cafe Noir E4 5c ** 4
401 Cream Topping
-
E5 6c  
  CENTRAL ALCOVE
403 Problem 34
-
f4 6
404 The antler f7A 2
405 Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kid f6C+ 11
406 30. Short Left Wall
-
f4 1
407 31. Jam Crack f4 1
408 32. Pegasus
-
f4+ 1
409 33. Behind the Tree
-
f5+ 1
  TWO TIER BOULDER
411 Tears in Heaven f5+ 7
412 River of Tears f7B+ * 4
413 Tears on the Dance Floor f6B+ 6
414 Tears on the Dance Floor SS f7A 2
415 Edge of Sanity f5 6
416 Two Tier Crack f4+ 1
417 Two Tears f7A+ 2
418 38. A Tale of Two Cities
-
f5+ 2
419 42. Tuppence Ha'penny
-
f4+ 1
420 47. Two a Penny
-
f5+ 2
421 Shafted
-
E3 5c 1
  CYCLOPS BUTTRESS
423 Green Wall f4 12
424 Left Arete
-
f4+ 11
425 Cyclops Wall f5 8
426 Right Arete f5 5
427 The Scoop f4+ 4
428 Side Wall f4+ 4
  HALFWAY HOUSE
430 54. Halfway House
-
f5 1
431 55. Halfway House Arete
-
f5 1
  ROADSIDE BOULDER
433 The lip sit start f7A+ 7
434 Spinal Tap f7C ** 4
435 Spinal tap RH f7B+ * 3
436 Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 106
437 Slim shady (sit start) f7A ** 131
438 Real Slim Shady f7A+ *** 50
439 Real Slim Shady (Left Hand) f7B *** 6
440 Intermittent Crack f5+ 60
441 Not to be Taken Away f5 79
442 Roadside Wall f7C+ 1
443 Roadside Arete f5 35
444 62. Roadside Flutings
-
f5 1
445 Capability Brawn  V13  
446 Prawn * V4 * 1
447 King Prawn * V5 1
  UNSORTED
449 Problem 61 f4 3
450 Perpetual Motion
-
f7C **  
451 Problem 63
-
f4 7
452 Problem 12
-
f6B 1
453 Problem 40 f6C ** 1
454 Snail Boulder f5 1
455 38. Undercut Walls f6A 1
456 39. Traverse of Undercut Walls f6A 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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