Climbs 298
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces all

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH © Katie Gamble

Crag features

Primarily a bouldering venue, and a bloody good one at that. There are hundreds of problems strewn all over the moor, with easy stuff to mega desperates. The routes are all on the Southern Escarpment (the bit visible from the main road).

Approach notes

From Belsay on the A696, head for Bolam Lakes. Go past the lake car park on the right to a crossroads, turn left along an unmetalled road past a row of cottages. Park by the wall on the moor just over the cattle grid. Be sure to keep your speed down.

Aye, brittle sandstone at that.
glaramara - 19/Jun/16
*CAUTION* Climbed here today (23/08/13) and on the way back to the cars found a very big BULL in the fields with the cows.
DaveB_86 - 23/Aug/13
Can be very wet and boggy on walk in. Mind the cattle they can be very easily spooked
Fluvial - 06/Aug/12
Extremely sad.
Ian Jones - 09/Apr/12
Was there today and parked at the second 'limited' parking spot closest to the pond. Arrived back to find a very polite letter explaining that parking here now should not happen and that we should all use the top parking area after the first cattle grid. Letter said information had been posted on 'the website' which i assume is UKbouldering. Here's me sharing it with all of you. TLDR; Park beside wall at first cattle grid and walk down. Pond area is about to be worked on.
sneaks - 19/Apr/11
Amazing place to climb. Lots of good problems spread out over quite a large area. Only real issue is that people seem to climb mainly on 3 or 4 boulders/walls so most of the place is dirty and needs more traffic.
pigeonjim - 26/Aug/10
The rock is from the same deposit as Rothley, It's called Ingoe Grit. Whoever said there was no grit in Northumberland should look up Jack Rock.
JDal - 17/May/10
I've seen it written up as a type of gritstone, as well as a coarse sandstone. It's completely different in texture from the Fell Sandstone of Bowden etc, so I thought it worth calling it gritstone just to made the difference clear. I can change it if it bothers you!
Stuart S - 06/Mar/09
Gritstone!?!?! There isnt any in Northumberland! This Crag is Sandstone
benj_d - 05/Mar/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  -----SHAFTOE NORTH----
  THE RIFT
3 First Problem f6A 6
4 Problem 5
-
f5 13
5 Problem 6 f6A 5
6 Problem 7 f5+ 5
7 Problem 8 f6A 5
8 Problem 10 f6C 2
9 The Second Nose f6B 4
  THE PUDDING STONE
11 Problem 1 f4+ 16
12 Problem 2
-
f5 26
13 Pudding Filler f4 4
14 Problem 3 f6C 12
  NORTH BUTTRESS
16 Short Wall
-
f4 21
17 Merry Dancers f6A 7
18 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 2
19 Mini Power f6C 9
20 Aurora Borealis f4 4
21 Northern Frights f5+ 2
  ARETE LAND, HALLIONS ROCKS
23 Problem 10 f5 71
24 Piano f7B 3
25 Fingers f7A 7
26 The Long Reach
-
f6A 44
27 The Long Reach SDS f7B 12
28 Slapper f7A 186
29 Clamper f7A+ 24
30 Corner Crack
-
f4+ 51
31 Problem 18 f5 39
32 Problem 19 f5+ 27
33 Classic Arete
-
f6A 102
34 Shaftoe Bloc f6C 4
35 Problem 21 f5+ 63
36 Problem 22 f5+ 46
37 Problem 23 f6A+ 38
38 Problem 24 f5+ 17
  SIX PACK
40 Six Pack Circuit f6B 10
41 Lip Trip f6A+ 11
42 Alexis f6B+ 14
  PUNISHMENT BLOCK
44 Green Line
-
f4+ 12
45 Problem 29
-
f4 19
46 Problem 30
-
f4 18
47 Problem 32
-
f5+ 15
48 Problem 33 f7A 2
  DOLPHIN
50 Problem 36 f6C 5
  THE INCLINED SLAB
52 Problem 38
-
f4+ 29
  GRINDSTONE
  JUBILEE BOULDER
  -----CENTRAL AREA-----
  SALTER'S NICK
57 In the Nick f6A+ 3
58 Sharp Arete
-
f6A 17
59 Salt n Pepper f5+ 15
60 Salt n Pepper Right Hand Side f6A 4
61 'S' Crack
-
f4 34
62 Central Traverse f6C 4
63 Right-hand Traverse f5+ 5
64 Problem 10 f5+ 5
65 Small Boulder
-
f5 13
66 Small Fry f4+ 2
67 Syco Sheep f6C * 4
68 Full Nettle Jacket f5+ 3
69 Finger Bowl
-
f4 12
70 Chicken Ed
-
f4+ 8
71 Problem 9 f6C 2
  LOST ARROWHEAD LOWER BOULDER
73 Problem 17
-
f4+ 53
74 Problem 18
-
f5+ 45
75 Problem 19
-
f5+ 37
76 Problem 20
-
f5 18
77 Problem 20a f6A+ 5
78 Sunshower f6A 7
79 Rainshower f6B 6
  LOST ARROWHEAD CAVE
81 Lost Slab f4 38
82 Lost Groove
-
f4 55
83 Axe Head
-
f6A 77
84 Stone Age Man f7A+ 8
85 Lost Arrowhead f6C 26
86 Neolithic Man
-
f6B 35
87 Cave Dweller f7A+ 29
88 Broken Arrow - Stone Age Man Link V10 1
89 Broken Arrow f7C 2
90 California Man f7C * 1
  CRUCIFIX BOULDER
92 Christmas Time f4 3
93 Problem 31 f6A 1
94 Crucifix Crack f5 15
95 Problem 33 f5 3
96 Problem 34 f6C 2
  OYSTER ROCK (WALL BOULDER)
  BOULDER IN THE WOODS
  GATEWAY BUTTRESSES
100 Problem 37 f7A 1
101 Mrs Mops Problem 40 f4 38
102 Mrs Mops Problem 41 f4 44
103 Mrs Mops Problem 42 f4 41
104 Mrs Mops Problem 43 f4 32
  THE RAVINE
106 Shallow Groove
-
f4 103
107 Pocket Wall (problem 45)
-
f4 104
108 Side Wall
-
f4 98
109 Hidden Crack f6A 22
110 Young's Arete f6B 19
111 Easy Wall
-
f4 60
112 Crack One
-
f5 66
113 No Need for Speed f6C+ 7
114 Smooth Wall f7A 48
115 Crack Two
-
f4 97
116 Buford T Justice f6C+ 59
117 Pocket Wall (problem 53)
-
f5+ 73
118 Problem 54 f5+ 39
119 Way Cool
-
f5 101
120 Problem 56
-
f6A 49
121 Problem 57
-
f5 42
122 Low Level Traverse
-
f4 17
123 Mid Level Traverse
-
f4+ 14
  THE BIG BIRCH
125 Problem 61
-
f4+ 5
126 Problem 63 f4 6
127 Branch Left f6A 3
128 Branch Right f6B 3
129 Branch Right SDS f6C 2
130 The Mantel f7A+ 4
  -----WESTERN EDGES-----
  FONT BOULDER
133 Bleaustard f6A+ 32
134 Purely Belter f7C ** 31
135 Suprising Solution f7A 106
136 Font Centre f7A 19
137 Incipient Crack f6A 94
138 Incipient Crack (sit start) f7A *** 120
139 Problem 5 f6A 46
140 Problem 5 Sit Start f6B 25
141 Short Crack
-
f4+ 64
142 Little Prow f6A 40
143 Cuvier
-
f6A 47
144 Final Prow
-
f4+ 49
145 Font Traverse f6C 67
146 Reverse Traverse f6B 9
147 Gnarly Start * f7A ** 1
  THE BUSINESS
149 Problem 14 f7A 12
150 Problem 15 f7A 1
  STOLEN FROM IVOR
152 Groove One (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
153 Groove Two (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
154 Groove Three (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f5+ 1
155 Top Traverse (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
156 Starting Something (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f6C 1
157 Stolen from Ivor
-
f6C 1
158 Stealing it Back (Stolen from Ivor)
-
f7A+ 1
  MINI OBELISK
160 Cliff's Slab
-
f4 23
  ASTRO
  HAIR LIP
  SMITH'S ROCKS
164 The Lip f7A 4
165 The Scoop
-
f6B 33
166 The Mask
-
f6C+ 26
167 The Crack f4 20
168 Milk and Cookies f6A+ 12
169 Knee Cracker f6A+ 9
170 The Bunker f6B 10
171 The Edge
-
f6A 21
172 Weasels Ripped my Flesh f6C 6
173 Classic Arete (standing start)
-
f4 42
174 Classic Arete (sit start)
-
f6B 21
175 Clamp f5+ ** 12
176 Clamp SS f6C 1
177 City of Sand
-
f6B 9
178 Problem 38
-
f6C 12
179 Pebble Slab f6C 10
180 Proposal f6C 22
  TURTLE ROCK
182 Turtle's Flipper Left-Hand
-
f5 15
183 Turtle's Flipper Right-Hand
-
f5 12
184 Underbelly
-
f5 16
185 Soft Centre f6A 46
186 The Boss f7B ** 25
187 Blood Sport f8A+ 3
188 Bloodsport Left Hand Finish f8B+ 1
189 Hard Shell f6C 12
190 Hard Shell sit start f7A * 2
191 Darkness Beckons
-
f6A 50
192 Darkness Beckons SDS (into the light) f6C * 2
  NEB BOULDER
194 Power is Nothing Without Control f7C *** 10
195 Crease Classic
-
f6B 50
196 Broken Hearts Are For Assholes f7A+ 63
197 The Neb Roof
-
f6C 108
198 The Original f6A ** 58
199 Perverse Classic f6C * 11
200 Problem 58
-
f6A 14
201 Problem 59
-
f5+ 12
202 Sloper Masterclass f5+ *** 183
203 Problem 61
-
f6A 18
204 Problem 62
-
f6B 44
205 Aside
-
f6B 41
206 Pure Endurance f7A 2
207 All Neb's Aside f7A+ 2
208 Nebs Extention f7A 1
209 Nebs-Asshole f7A 1
210 Nebs-Sloper f6C+ 2
  -----SHAFTOE SUMMIT-----
  DEAD PINE BUTTRESS
213 The Alligator f5+ 2
214 The Alligator Right-Hand f6B 1
215 Clueless Caiman Hunters f6A+ 1
216 Living Fossil f6A 1
217 Lightning Never Strikes Twice f5 2
218 Problem 10
-
f5+ 3
219 The Cow f6A  
  DISHPAN ALLEY
221 East Wall
-
f5+ 29
222 Arete
-
f6A 27
223 Problem 18
-
f4 46
224 Problem 19 f4+ 34
225 Problem 20 f5+ * 21
226 Problem 21
-
f5+ 30
227 Problem 22
-
f5+ 42
228 Rising Damp
-
f6B 29
229 Corner
-
f4+ 30
230 Mantel Madness f6C *** 44
231 Problem 29
-
f5+ 15
232 27. Troy's Eliminate f6B 2
233 Blunt Nose
-
f6A+ 10
234 Problem 31
-
f5+ 11
235 28. Dishpan Alley Traverse
-
f5+ 1
236 Problem 32
-
f4 17
  MAIN BUTTRESS
238 Problem 34 (standing start)
-
f5+ 8
239 Viagra Plus
-
f6B+ 35
240 Viagra Plus Sit Start f7B 50
241 Sloppy Ploppin f6C 7
242 Sloppy Ploppin S.S f7C+ 1
243 Central Wall f7B+ 3
244 Main Wall
-
f6C 12
245 Main Wall Sit Start f7B+ ** 21
246 Timmy Tip Toes f7A+ * 50
247 Magic Fluting
-
f5 116
  FLUTED WALL
249 The Sting f6A+ 8
250 Buzzing f6C 11
251 Buzzing (sit start) f7A ** 13
  THE COB
253 Problem 48
-
f5+ 23
254 Cob Arete
-
f5 124
255 Problem 50
-
f6A 41
256 Hound Dog f7A+ 23
257 Killer Queen f6C 7
258 Hip Hop
-
f6A 45
259 Honeycomb Wall Traverse
-
f6C 64
260 The Link f6A 7
  SHIP'S BAIT CABIN
262 Problem 58 f4 82
263 Problem 59 f4 74
264 Problem 60 f5 72
265 The Thug
-
f5+ 45
266 The Technician
-
f5+ 35
267 Lip Traverse
-
f4 24
268 Port
-
f5+ 76
269 Galley Wall (standing start)
-
f4+ 66
270 Galley Wall (sit start)
-
f6A * 43
271 Wolf
-
f6B 30
272 Starboard
-
f5 85
273 Bow Wave
-
f6A 46
274 Lost Crack (standing start)
-
f5 23
275 Lost Crack (sit start)
-
f5+ 29
276 Bait Boxed f7A *** 1
  SHAFTOE GRANGE FARM BUTTRESSES
278 Cow Pat f5+ 5
  -----SHAFTOE SOUTH-----
  RUDDER'S BOULDERS
281 Rudyard
-
f5+ 4
  THE SEADOG BOULDER
  PUNCH BOWL
284 Black Pudding f7A * 1
285 Problem 7 f6C 2
286 Duvel 8.5% f7A 36
287 The Real Duvel 8.5% f6C+ 5
288 Problem 10 f5+ 17
289 Canine
-
f6A 16
290 0% Alcohol f7A 6
291 Problem 12 f6C 2
  CAVE BUTTRESS
293 Flake Crack f4+ 12
294 Pocket Rocket f7A 42
295 The Wall f4+ 4
296 Orangutan f6C 2
  LITTLE DAL BUTTRESS
298 The Scoop
-
f4 4
299 The Wall f6B 3
300 Little Crack f4 2
301 Little John f5 2
302 Slab Arete
-
f4 6
303 Little and Often f6B+ * 3
304 Problem 26
-
f4+ 6
  LONG WALL
306 3 Fingers, 1 Pebble. f6C 2
307 Wickerman f6B 4
308 Wickerman SS f6B+ 5
309 Wicker arete f6C 3
310 Wickerman Warm Up f4 3
  MINISCULE MATTERHORN
312 Problem 28
-
f4 10
313 Problem 29
-
f4 7
  Cafe Noir
315 Cafe Noir E4 5c ** 1
  CENTRAL ALCOVE
317 Problem 34
-
f4 5
318 The antler f7A 1
319 Butch Catch-Me and the Campus Board Kid f6C+ 10
  TWO TIER BOULDER
321 Tears in Heaven f5+ 5
322 River of Tears f7B+ * 5
323 Tears on the Dance Floor f6B+ 3
324 Edge of Sanity f5 4
325 Two Tier Crack f4+  
326 Two Tears f7A+ 1
  CYCLOPS BUTTRESS
328 Green Wall f4 10
329 Left Arete
-
f4+ 10
330 Cyclops Wall f5 7
331 Right Arete f5 4
332 The Scoop f4+ 3
333 Side Wall f4+ 3
  HALFWAY HOUSE
  ROADSIDE BOULDER
336 The lip sit start f7A+ 3
337 Spinal Tap f7C ** 4
338 Spinal tap RH f7B+ * 2
339 Slim Shady (standing start)
-
f6A 82
340 Slim shady (sit start) f7A ** 102
341 Real Slim Shady f7A+ *** 37
342 Real Slim Shady (Left Hand) f7B *** 4
343 Intermittent Crack f5+ 44
344 Not to be Taken Away f5 54
345 Roadside Wall f7C+ 1
346 Roadside Arete f5 28
  UNSORTED
348 Problem 61 f4 3
349 Perpetual Motion
-
f7C **  
350 Problem 63
-
f4 7
351 Problem 12
-
f6B 1
352 Problem 40 * f6C ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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