Climbs 90
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 3977m a.s.l
Faces all

View Stats

A snapshot from a life of adventure photographer. In the background climbers on Mont Blanc du Tacul. © Kamil Tamiola

Access Advice

The Trident du Tacul suffered a massive rockfall in September 2018, taking out the lower parts of routes such as Lépiney and Les Intouchables.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
More info
Not sure why English grades when it's a glacier access and quite a serious place if weather changes on you. And routes on The Brevent are given Alpine Grades!?
Smith42 - 26/Jul/15
Ben, why is Contamine given a British grade? we're not in Britain! (It's wrong anyway, it's E2 5c)
Alasdair Fulton - 16/Aug/13
Strange to give most of the routes their alpine grades but O Sole Mio a French grade? Could always put the French grade in the description. No big deal, just for consistency and ego stroking purposes :P
Alasdair Fulton - 16/Aug/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Mont Blanc du Tacul summit
-
summit 232
2 Arête du Diable Traverse D+ 5c *** 42
  North Face
4 Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face PD * 361
  West Face
6 Afanasieff-Bodin D+ ** 1
  Clocher du Tacul
8 Empire State Building ED3 *** 1
9 L'ivresse des latitudes * 7a+ ** 1
  Chandelle du Tacul
11 Tabou ED3 7a+ ***  
12 Bonatti-Gallieni ED3 7b **  
13 Bonatti-Tabou TD+ 6b+ *** 21
14 Ligne Blanche ED1 *** 1
  Le Trident du Tacul
16 Les Intouchables ED3 7b+ *** 1
17 La Directe (Diretta) ED1 *** 2
18 Bonne Éthique ED1 ** 6
19 Lépiney D 5c *** 55
20 Northeast Face
-
AD+ 2
  Grand Capucin
22 O Sole Mio ED1 *** 19
23 Swiss Route TD+ 6b *** 87
24 Voyage selon Gulliver ED2 7b *** 11
25 L'écho des alpages ED1 ** 2
26 Bonatti-Ghigo ED1 6c+ *** 17
27 Voie Petit 8b *** 2
28 Directe des Capucins ED1 6c *** 13
29 Laratoune
-
TD- 1
  Petit Capucin
31 East Face
-
D *** 4
32 South-East Face via Roi De Siam IV+ *** 7
33 Le Lifting du Roi D+ 5c ** 28
34 Valéria Gully TD- 4+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
35 Chippendale Gully TD 5 ** 2
  Pointe Adolphe Rey
37 Police des Glaciers ED1 *** 2
38 Le Corsaire
-
ED1 1
39 Bettembourg-Thivierge TD+ 6b *** 14
40 Super Lionel TD *** 4
41 Salluard Route TD- 6a *** 49
42 Cache-cache ED1 *** 12
43 Coupe de foudre * 7a+ *** 1
  Pyramid du Tacul
45 East Ridge AD+ 5a *** 180
  East Face
47 Couloir Chéré of the Col du Diable D- 5
48 Lafaille Goulotte D ** 9
49 De But en Blanc
-
TD- 1
50 Couloir du Diable
-
D  
51 Supercouloir ED1 6 *** 18
52 Supercouloir (Gervasutti Pillar start) ED1 *** 19
53 Gervasutti Pillar TD 6b *** 67
54 Central Spur - Boccalatte Pillar D+ ** 1
55 Nonstop TD-  
56 Macho Couloir (Quille Couloir) TD- *** 1
57 Macho Couloir (Direct Finish) TD+ *** 1
58 North-East Spur
-
TD- **  
59 Gervasutti Couloir D- 2 13
60 Jager Couloir D 2 * 12
61 Jager Couloir Direct D+ 1
62 Gabarrou-Albinoni TD 4+ *** 72
63 Modica-Noury TD+ 5+ *** 50
64 Martinetti Pillar TD  
65 Pinocchio ED2 6+ *** 7
66 Scotch on the Rocks ED2 9
67 Pilier des Séracs TD+ 1
Climb name Grade
  Pointes Lachenal
69 Pelissier Gully TD- 5 ** 79
70 Hit Machine ED1  
71 Marylène TD- 6a ** 18
72 Harold et Maud TD+ 6b ** 35
73 Cecchinel-Jager Route TD- 1
74 Contamine Route TD 6a+ *** 162
75 Le Macroscope TD+ ** 1
76 Tentation ED1 ** 4
77 M6 Solar TD 5+ * 34
78 Star Académixte ED1 6 * 14
79 Dallas Texas TD * 1
80 Le vieux Brandy Jack Jones TD * 2
81 A l'orée du bois TD+ ** 4
82 Pointes Lachenal Traverse AD 2 ** 685
  Triangle du Tacul
84 Diagonal Route (Hanging Glacier) AD+ 2
85 La Tête dans les Etoiles
-
ED2  
86 La Main dans le Sac
-
ED2  
87 Pibarot-ci, Pibarot-la
-
ED1  
88 Contamine-Negri AD+ 2 * 12
89 Petite Frounet D- 3+ * 6
90 Contamine-Grisolle AD 3 ** 212
91 E-logik ED1  
92 Gabarrou-Marquis D+ 8
93 Directissime TD 4
94 Contamine-Mazeaud AD+ 3 ** 171
95 Contamine-Mazeaud Rectifee
-
TD- 4
96 North Spur
-
TD- 3
97 Goulotte des Allemands TD 5 ** 27
98 Le Temps est Assassin ED1 6 ** 14
99 Perroux Gully TD 5 ** 33
100 Chèré Couloir D 4 *** 565
101 L'Infidele D ** 7
102 Serac Gully D 11
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate Mont Blanc du Tacul
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]