Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

FFME link with more info

Climbs 93
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 3977m a.s.l
Faces all

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A snapshot from a life of adventure photographer. In the background climbers on Mont Blanc du Tacul. © Kamil Tamiola

Access Advice

The Trident du Tacul suffered a massive rockfall in September 2018, taking out the lower parts of routes such as Lépiney and Les Intouchables.

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Guidebooks

Chamonix

A single publication from Rockfax with hundreds of routes ranging from short sport ticks to the best multi-day adventures. It is illustrated with some amazing photo-topos, superb maps and with excellent detailed descriptions.
More info
Not sure why English grades when it's a glacier access and quite a serious place if weather changes on you. And routes on The Brevent are given Alpine Grades!?
Smith42 - 26/Jul/15
Ben, why is Contamine given a British grade? we're not in Britain! (It's wrong anyway, it's E2 5c)
Alasdair Fulton - 16/Aug/13
Strange to give most of the routes their alpine grades but O Sole Mio a French grade? Could always put the French grade in the description. No big deal, just for consistency and ego stroking purposes :P
Alasdair Fulton - 16/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Mont Blanc du Tacul summit
-
summit 236
2 Arête du Diable Traverse D+ 5c *** 43
  North Face
4 Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face PD * 364
  West Face
6 Afanasieff-Bodin D+ ** 1
  Clocher du Tacul
8 Empire State Building ED3 *** 1
9 L'ivresse des latitudes 7a+ ** 1
  Chandelle du Tacul
11 Tabou ED3 7a+ ***  
12 Bonatti-Gallieni ED3 7b **  
13 Bonatti-Tabou TD+ 6b+ *** 21
14 Ligne Blanche ED1 *** 1
  Le Trident du Tacul
16 Les Intouchables ED3 7b+ *** 3
17 La Directe (Diretta) ED1 *** 2
18 Bonne Éthique ED1 ** 7
19 Lépiney D 5c *** 31
20 Northeast Face
-
AD+ 2
  Grand Capucin
22 O Sole Mio ED1 *** 19
23 Swiss Route TD+ 6b *** 87
24 Voyage selon Gulliver ED2 7b *** 11
25 L'écho des alpages ED1 ** 2
26 Bonatti-Ghigo ED1 6c+ *** 17
27 Voie Petit 8b *** 2
28 Directe des Capucins ED1 6c *** 13
29 Laratoune
-
TD- 1
  Petit Capucin
31 East Face
-
D *** 5
32 South-East Face via Roi De Siam IV+ *** 7
33 Le Lifting du Roi D+ 5c ** 29
34 Valéria Gully TD- 4+ ** 5
35 Chippendale Gully TD 5 ** 3
Climb name Grade
  Pointe Adolphe Rey
37 Police des Glaciers ED1 *** 2
38 Le Corsaire
-
ED1 1
39 Bettembourg-Thivierge TD+ 6b *** 14
40 Super Lionel TD *** 4
41 Salluard Route TD- 6a *** 49
42 Cache-cache ED1 *** 12
43 Coupe de foudre 7a+ *** 1
  Pyramid du Tacul
45 East Ridge AD+ 5a *** 182
  East Face
47 Couloir Chéré of the Col du Diable D- 5
48 Lafaille Goulotte D ** 9
49 De But en Blanc
-
TD- 1
50 Couloir du Diable
-
D  
51 Supercouloir ED1 6 *** 28
52 Supercouloir (Gervasutti Pillar start) ED1 *** 19
53 Gervasutti Pillar TD 6b *** 67
54 Central Spur - Boccalatte Pillar D+ ** 1
55 Nonstop TD-  
56 Macho Couloir (Quille Couloir) TD- *** 1
57 Macho Couloir (Direct Finish) TD+ *** 1
58 North-East Spur
-
TD- **  
59 Gervasutti Couloir D- 2 13
60 Jager Couloir D 2 * 12
61 Jager Couloir Direct D+ 1
62 Gabarrou-Albinoni TD 4+ *** 76
63 Modica-Noury TD+ 5+ *** 53
64 Martinetti Pillar TD  
65 Pinocchio ED2 6+ *** 11
66 Scotch on the Rocks ED2 16
67 Pilier des Séracs TD+ 1
68 Slave to the Rhythm ED2 *** 2
  Pointes Lachenal
70 Pelissier Gully TD- 5 ** 93
Climb name Grade
71 Hit Machine ED1 1
72 Marylène TD- 6a ** 18
73 Harold et Maud TD+ 6b ** 35
74 Cecchinel-Jager Route TD- 1
75 Contamine Route TD 6a+ *** 162
76 Le Macroscope TD+ ** 1
77 Tentation ED1 ** 6
78 M6 Solar TD 5+ * 44
79 Star Académixte ED1 6 * 16
80 Dallas Texas TD * 1
81 Le vieux Brandy Jack Jones TD * 2
82 A l'orée du bois TD+ ** 4
83 Pointes Lachenal Traverse AD 2 ** 695
84 Ophélie Winter * TD+ 1
  Triangle du Tacul
86 Diagonal Route (Hanging Glacier) AD+ 2
87 La Tête dans les Etoiles
-
ED2  
88 La Main dans le Sac
-
ED2  
89 Pibarot-ci, Pibarot-la
-
ED1  
90 Contamine-Negri AD+ 2 * 12
91 Petite Frounet D- 3+ * 6
92 Contamine-Grisolle AD 3 ** 214
93 E-logik ED1  
94 Gabarrou-Marquis D+ 8
95 Directissime TD 4
96 Contamine-Mazeaud AD+ 3 ** 173
97 Contamine-Mazeaud Rectifee
-
TD- 4
98 North Spur
-
TD- 3
99 Goulotte des Allemands TD 5 ** 27
100 Le Temps est Assassin ED1 6 ** 15
101 Perroux Gully TD 5 ** 33
102 Chèré Couloir D 4 *** 576
103 L'Infidele D ** 7
104 Serac Gully D 11
105 Tunnel Surprise * ED1 ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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