UKC

Climbs 11
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

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Helen on Grib Goch © duzinga

Crag features

A nice little crag, in a pleasant place, with routes up to 105ft. Best for The Riparian (E2 5c).

Approach notes

Lies on NT property. The iron ladders in the river bank are private property, used for fishing.
Take the A496 Betws y Coed to Dolwyddelan road, where the crag lies on the bank of the river Lledr. Park by a small building just past the crag (coming from Betws - leave the gate clear) or at the roadside (get right off the road) opposite the crag - the grass verge on the crag side of the road can get a bit soft. Less than five minutes walk from the road - or longer if parking is a problem (fishermen start early).

There are "no public entry" signs at both entrances above the crag and no gates, just a barbed wire fence.

Restricted Access

Access can be sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect. 

To avoid any future access issues, climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders. 

Parking should be in the layby on the A470, some 500m west of the crag. Do not park on the grass verge adjacent to the entrance gate/paths. 

a pleasent afternoon if there are no groups abing off. lovely location in the lleder valley
mark sefton - 17/Jul/04
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