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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 31
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

Porth-Y-Garan is a small lower grade crag between 15 and 20 metres in height, situated about 1.5 miles north of the main cliffs of Rhoscolyn.

Approach notes

Travelling from Valley and 4 Mile Bridge on the B4545, take the second turning signposted to Rhoscolyn on the left (if you are travelling from Trearddur take the first on the right). Drive for about a mile, passing a school on the right and turn right onto a small road signposted for "Gwynfryn B&B" (Changed to a 'For Sale' sign Apr 2015) and also a dead-end sign. Drive for about a third of a mile, through a gateway/cattlegrid and park on the side of the track in a small layby just before a gate on the left marked private. The crag is a 5 minute walk away. Follow the marked footpath north over a stile and then head over towards the coast around a small sandy bay following the path. The crag is the highest clifftop area, and is South of the Porth y Garan bay marked on the OS map. (If you reach the caravan site you've gone too far).

There is a steep descent route on the right of the main crag (left side when stood on the top looking out to sea) which is about mod/diff standard or abseil in. It is also possible to approach from around the other side but it is a long way round.

Topo available at : (accessed 15/04/2015) NOTE: THE OS MAP POSITION OF THE CRAG IS WRONG ON THIS LINK - The crag is to the South of the 'sideways-Y' shaped bay.

A good little crag this, ideal for an easy day out or as in intro to Sea cliffs.
SGD - 14/Jun/11
A good beginners crag in a great setting with an execellent mini guide on the gogarth wetpaint.
steve joynson - 03/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Training for the Depot E1 5c 2
  Main crag
3 Jugfest 3000 E1 5a * 2
4 Rostam's Awkward Bulge HVD * 6
5 Forgotten HS 4b  
6 Sunset Crack VS 5a 2
7 Forgettable S 7
8 Golden Gate
D 16
9 Scimitar
VD 13
10 Scimitar Direct HVS 5b 1
11 Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c 6
Climb name Grade
12 Blast Hole VS 4c 13
13 Snappy HVS 4c 3
14 Central Wall S 4a 35
15 Didgeridoo S 4a 13
16 Double Pocket S 4a 18
17 Rising Tide S 4a 48
18 Double Thread VD 18
19 Garanteed D 51
20 Pickpocket D 55
21 Gwennol D 5
22 Keloptomanic VS 4a * 3
Climb name Grade
23 Descent route M 20
  Right of descent area
25 Dipper VS 4c * 5
26 Puncture VS 4c ** 28
27 Eliminate this Cameron E1 5b 5
28 Spring Tide HVS 5a 10
29 Thug's Corner VS 4c * 5
30 Apparantly even crap routes merit names(just) S 4a 3
31 <Insert name> HS 4b 2
32 <Insert Another Name> S 2
33 Heartbreak Slab VS 4b * 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Ron Rees Davies