Climbs 20
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces E

Second lead © Will Nicholls

Crag features

Three buttresses are listed in the guide but the left hand two are reputedly overgrown. The (relatively) prominent access path goes only to the right hand buttress, which seems to be used for abseiling.

Routes are from Right to Left as approaching the crag.

Approach notes

The crag is located just above the minor road from Llanrwst to the Ugly House on the Llanrwst side. Coming from Llanrwst a private track, signposted Ty'n yr Ardd, branches back R up the hill about 300 m above the old Hafna mine workings (car park). Follow this for about 100 m until, just after an old, barred-off mine entrance on the L (small, relatively inconspicuous), a path climbs the hillside a short way to the foot of the routes around Johari Window. For routes around Heulwen drop down a few m from the crag base, bushwhack across above the first prominent tree below and follow a faint path back up. Routes left of Heulwen are reputedly somewhat overgrown and access is jungly. These areas are said to be better accessed from around the highest point of the forest road above the crag. The forest road could be gained by a short ascent from the top of the routes at the R end, or by walking up through the Hafna workings or from higher up the Ugly House road.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Northern Section 
2The Clock of the Long Now
-
HVS 5a  
3Shamanic Wanderings
-
E6 6a  
4First EncounterVS  
5Johari Window
-
E1 5b *3
6Bonsai Wall
-
HS 4a *3
7Gorki Groove
-
E1 5a  
8OffcutHS 4a 2
9Final Flurry
-
HVS 4c  
10Heulwen
-
VS 4b *2
11Ulex
-
VS 4b 2
12Quercus's Route
-
HS 4b  
13Mistake
-
VS 4c  
14Provo
-
HVS 5a  
15Man of Haearn
-
E3 5b  
16Digger
-
VS 4b  
17MetroVD  
 Central Section 
19Suede Slide
-
HS 4b  
 Southern Section 
21Twin Cracks
-
HVS 4c  
22Oak Tree Jug
-
VS 4c  
23The A5
-
S  

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