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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 36
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Crimson Cruiser © jim jones

Crag features

Single- and multi-pitch routes up to 155ft: some stunning ones, on good rock in great positions. Notable for Africa Rib (VDiff), Mean Feat (HVS 5a) and Crimson Cruiser (E4 6a - back cover of 1989 guidebook).

Approach notes

Walk up the Cwm Orthin track to the first level area with conifers on the left. Turn back right then follow a faint track up the grass just right of the lower slate scree. When the path meets a ridge, turn left to follow dark grey trails up through a few more slate waste tiers to below the crag.

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Very enjoyable crag that dries quickly after rain- like its neighbours the protection can be a bit spaced- and tri cams are very usefull.And a nice easy descent down a grass gully to left of crag (looking in)- had the place to ourselves on an August bank holiday.
bobpilgrem - 30/Aug/12
Guidebook directions aren't too clear. Best way up is to follow the cwm orthin track until you can see the crag (fern trees and old mine buildings on your left). Take a short, obvious and very well worn path up the slate then follow the grassy incline over the stream up the right hand side of the huge slate slag heap. Go round the big lump of rock until you get to a small sheep-pen, take a left on to the slag heap following the not so obvious but very good path up through the slate (small cairn marker at the bottom). When you reach the obvious track (another cairn) go straight over and continue up the hidden path directly to the bottom of the crag.
George_Surf - 21/May/12
I added this by mistake, it should be Crag y clipiau
jim.barritt - 08/Jun/09
Crimson Cruiser is fantastic. My old man did the 1st ascent of Great
Nj - 05/Jul/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Tetse Fly VS 4c 2
2 Johnson's Creek E1 5a 1
3 Barfly VS 4c 1
4 Trick of the Tail HVS 5a 3
5 Johnson's Wall E3 6a * 1
6 Jones's Crack VS 4c 9
7 Betimes D 20
8 Depression Direct
HS 4a 58
9 Thin Wall Special
VS 4c * 58
10 The Emerald E5 6b ** 4
11 vestix
HVS 5a 34
12 africa rib VD ** 425
Climb name Grade
13 Usher's Dilemma HS 4a * 112
14 Usher's Dliemma - Eagle Finish
VS 4b * 41
15 Brys HVS 5a * 61
16 Asahel HS 4a ** 295
17 Asahel - Eagle Finish VS 4c ** 174
18 Great Feet
E1 5b * 4
19 Great Feat/Mean Feat E1 5b ** 132
20 Crimson Cruiser E5 6a *** 61
21 Mean Feat HVS 5a ** 141
22 Purple Pardise E5 6b * 1
23 Non Dairy Creamer E5 6a *** 26
24 Return of the horseman E3 5c ** 5
Climb name Grade
25 The Muleman E2 5b * 2
26 Ginger Ninja E7 6b ** 3
27 Straw Dogs Finish E2 5c * 8
28 Double Criss HVS 5a ** 159
29 Overhanging Cracks E2 5c * 10
30 Phidl HVS 5a 4
31 Special K E3 5c * 2
32 Inverted Staircase VS 4c 87
33 Peth Bras
HVS 5b 4
34 the mole
HS 4
35 A Mad Day Out E5 6a/b **  
36 Crab Nebula HVS 5a 1

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