Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces S

death to peg theives. © stefan morris

Crag features

Surprisingly difficult slab climbing on quarried limestone. Routes up to 120ft. Recommended: Priaprism (E2 5c*), Hair Trigger Trouble (E3 6a**), Death to Peg Thieves (E4 6b**) and the marvellously-named Noddy the Nubbin and the Sensuous Smear (E5 6c**). Some wonderful routes on very good quality rock.

Approach notes

The district council owns the land and discourages climbing, this used to be due to cars parked below. The base is now where the towns street cleaners empty their rubbish. Try going at quiet times (Christmas and any time not during the summer or weekends)

Bolts have replaced pegs in many routes.

The quarry lies directly above the car park for the south beach at Tenby, near the golf course.

While working a route once I abbed off as there were some drunks messing with my anchors. Be prepared for bored teenagers and drunks.

Guidebooks

Pembroke

The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Introduction Lobby HVS 5a 2
2 Sexual Fantasies E2 5c ** 4
3 Balcony E1 5a 1
4 Priaprism E2 5c * 3
5 The Feel E2 5c * 1
6 The fishermans friend E2 5c 3
7 Death to peg thieves E4 6b ** 3
8 Noddy the nubbin and the sensuous smear E5 6c ** 2
9 Hair Trigger Trouble E3 6a ** 9
10 South Circular VS 4c 9
11 Pearls E1 5b 1
12 Lumps HVS 5b * 1
13 Arrogance of youth E3 6b * 2

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