Climbs 81
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 336m a.s.l
Faces NE

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OHHH Shit!!! Here comes a sand storm....while climbing.... © ClimbFit

Crag features

The most accessible crag for Dubai residents and visitors. Well worth visiting for sport climbing between F4 and F7B (so far) and some trad up to HVS.

The formation is a long interesting nicely situated limestone ridge with a good variety of climbs: some very steep overhangs, some slabs with small sharp holds, some faces with combination of crimpers and rounded holds.

Originally developed with trad routes, more recently developing as a sport climbing crag (40+ routes and counting).
The rock is generally sound on the cleaned sports routes but caution is still advisable.

The best climbing times are from about November through to April. However, many of the routes are in shade for all or part of the day throughout the year so it is possible to climb in summer (but a very early or late start is advisable).

For the latest on routes, route development, finding climbing partners etc check out:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/UAE-and-Oman-Rock-Climbing-and-Outdoor-Adventures/182233698473829

http://www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/index.php

Videos of a number of routes are available here:
http://b.static.ak.fbcdn.net/swf/mvp.swf?8%3A146176=&v=58600132609&ev=0
and here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmFpj4DUJf0

Approach notes

The crag lies in a privately quarried area 10 km after Al Madam town on the Hatta road out of Dubai. At present access is ok but it is important to not cause any problems for the quarry workers, machinery etc, etc while driving to the crag and parking.
Access is usually possible by 2 wheel drive (but after heavy rain that can change). If you're renting a car in Dubai you may find your insurance doesn't cover this area as it is officially part of Oman (and, although there is usually no border control on the Dubai-Hatta road it is worth having some ID just in case).
For more detailed directions, check out the following pdf guide to Hatta sports routes:
http://www.foordkelcey.net/uae/hatta_topo.pdf
You will also likely get a helpful reply if you contact local climbers through the web forum:
http://www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/index.php

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Mr bombastic S 2
2 Pheasant plucker D  
3 Betty Swallocks S 2
4 Red Lion VS  
5 Alamo VS  
6 Fortyniners S  
7 Short and sweaty VS 4c  
8 So long and thanks for all the bolts 6a+ 8
9 Boy! S  
10 Shunned and falsified 5c 9
11 Hatta Corner S 4b ** 5
12 Fortune And Glory 6a+ 7
13 The Aberration E3 **  
14 Midnight zipper VS 5a 1
15 Vertical smile HVS 5b ***  
16 Big Willie VS 4b  
17 Pint Supporter S  
18 Slab Route 1 S 1
19 Slab Route 2 S  
20 Slab Route 3 S  
21 Troll slapping 6c+ 2
22 The troll 6a 9
23 Sugar plum psycho 6a 7
24 Chloe 6a * 9
25 Because it's there 6b 2
26 Atomic anteater 6b 8
27 Hallucinogenic abductions 6a+ 8
Climb name Grade
28 Blade runner 5c 7
29 Alans hat 4a 6
30 Wonderlet 5a 7
31 Balrog 6b+ ** 10
32 Mad Hatta VS 5
33 Vegan buffet 5a 8
34 Hattaboy HVS 5b  
35 Badgerzole HVS 5b  
36 Chick habit 5c 16
37 The mud the blood and the beer 5a 13
38 The sand, the phlegm and the banana daiquiri 5c 1
39 Training bra 5c 14
40 Bush Whacked VS 4b 1
41 To infinity and beyond! 6c+  
42 Spiderpig 6a * 12
43 Sheepshagga HVS 5a  
44 Plain Madam VS 4c  
45 desperate Dan HVS 5a  
46 Italian stallion VS 4c  
47 Stickless HVS 4c  
48 Jerry's mystery route 7a 1
49 Womb with a view 5c 1
50 Tadaima 7b  
51 Enigma 6a+ 2
52 Gotham city 6c * 2
53 Dark knight 6b 8
54 Dark / joker 6a 5
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Toby Foord-Kelcey