Climbs 106
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 250m a.s.l
Faces S

Hangover © jim jones

Crag features

Excellent rock, with steep routes; often sunny when the mountain crags are in cloud (read: rain). Pitches up to 150ft.

Approach notes

The crag overlooks the car park by Pont y Pair, the bridge at the NW end of the village.

 

Access Advice

Please do not park on the private road on the way up to the crag. Please park in the village. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Meirionnydd (2002)
Tremadog and Cwm Silyn (1989) (1989)
The seat mentioned in some of the access notes doesn't seem to exist any more. The path takes an obvious zig-zag where I think its supposed to be. Just keep following the footpath up and you'll find the wall. The crag has been completely empty when I've been which is surprising given how good the location and climbing are. The scramble on the left can be a bit bad if damp and you don't take your approach shoes up to the top with you...
j616s - 08/Jun/16
The photo of the approach in the Rockfax book has a sign in it - that sign is no longer present, but the approach is still easy to find.
MatthewV - 26/Apr/15
Conwy Buttress quite vegetated in April 2014 when we visited - limited climbs easily available
beksch - 14/Apr/14
Access advice: from the Pont y Pair car park follow the road up until, after a 100m or so, you reach a sharp right turn (residential road shown as a cul-de-sac). After about 100m this becomes a tarmac Forestry Commission road which soon turns sharp left past three houses on the right. After these take a right on a rough forest road then a footpath towards Pen-yr-Allt. Take a right by a seat and Main Cliff is above you.
Rog Wilko - 06/Jun/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Main Cliff
2 Holly Groove
-
M 10
3 The Ramp
-
HVS 5a * 46
4 Jingling Wall HS 4b ** 351
5 Something by Accident (Jingling Wall alternate finish) VS 4c 4
6 Bombers Wall Route One HS 4b * 187
7 Bombers Wall Route Two
-
HS 4b 61
8 The Phantom
-
HVS 5b 15
9 Private Practice E3 5c ** 17
10 Hangover
-
E2 5b 16
11 Hywel Dda E2 5b * 31
12 Long Climb
-
VD 47
13 Central Route One
-
VS 4c 22
14 Central Route Two VS 4c * 85
15 Long Climb Direct S ** 276
16 Curry Wall
-
E1 5a 14
17 Oes Ots?
-
E1 5b 2
18 Hen Bryd
-
S * 71
19 Consolation
-
S 24
20 Panorama
-
VS 4b 7
  Conwy Buttress
22 Wall Climb
-
S 12
23 Wall Street
-
S 8
24 Walnut
-
VS 4c 5
25 Waterloo
-
E3 6a  
26 Swing High
-
VS 4b ** 30
27 Swing Low
-
HVS 5a 5
28 Con Trick
-
E1 5b 16
29 Conwy Corner
-
S *** 194
30 Diagonal Climb
-
VD 14
31 Caerhun
-
VS 4c 6
32 Academy
-
HS 4b * 32
33 Daear
-
VS 4c  
34 Tyrch
-
VS 4c  
35 Hironimo
-
VS 4c 2
36 Irish Rover
-
E2 5b 3
37 Wild Rover Arete
-
E2 5b * 4
38 The Artful Dodger
-
VS 4c 1
39 Precedent
-
S 3
40 Stripper
-
S ** 21
41 Stripper Direct
-
HS 4b * 9
42 Slide-Show
-
S 1
43 Knight Time
-
HS 4b 1
44 Fatal Attraction
-
E2 5b  
45 Bat In Action
-
HVS 5a  
46 The Bat
-
HVS 5a  
47 Tree Climb
-
VD 11
48 Wolf Rib
-
S 2
  Little Buttress
50 Nicw
-
E3 6a 19
51 Sion
-
S 195
52 Sian
-
VD 180
53 Siencyn
-
S 114
54 Del
-
E3 5c 11
55 Little Chimney
-
VD 160
56 Groove
-
M1 1
57 The Groove
-
VD 170
58 The Groove (Left Wall Finish) S 4a 27
59 Morus
-
VD 41
60 Ifan
-
VD 43
61 The Arete (Easy Start) VD 36
62 The Arete HS 4b 131
63 Direct Route VS 4c * 147
64 Eliminate Start HVS 5a 100
65 Pryderi VS 4c * 130
66 Gwydion VS 4c * 90
67 Wanderer
-
HS 4b * 35
68 Raining Stones
-
HS 4b 8
  Craig Cynhelier
70 Jackdaw Cracks
-
HS 7
71 Pecker Rib
-
VD 5
72 Juggernaut
-
E2 5b 1
73 The Keen Haulier
-
VS 4c * 2
74 Trucker
-
HVS 5b 2
75 Cofiadwy
-
E2 5b *  
76 Lasting Impressions
-
VS 4c  
77 Achub Ni
-
VS 4c 1
78 Piton Route
-
E2 5b  
79 Dr Mayhead's Idea
-
HS 4b 1
80 Hiraeth
-
HVS 5a 2
81 Way Out West
-
HS 4b * 7
  Central Slabs
83 Face Climb
-
VD 2
84 Wall and Corner
-
VD * 5
85 Last Exit
-
VS 4b  
86 Arrow Head
-
HVS 5a ** 8
87 YKK
-
VS 4c 4
88 Zip Wall
-
VS 4c 1
89 Mystery Wall
-
S * 5
90 Problem Wall
-
S  
91 Depression
-
HVS 5a  
92 Earthworm Direct
-
HVS 5a 1
93 Earthworm
-
VS 4c  
94 Little X
-
HVS 5a  
95 The Fate Of Icarus
-
HVS 5a ** 1
96 Flight Of Fancy
-
E3 5b  
97 Loose Connection
-
HVS 5a  
98 Illusion
-
HS 4b 1
99 Delusion
-
HS 4b 1
100 Ivy's Rib
-
HS 4b  
101 Yellow Peril
-
S  
  Little Wall
103 Grug
-
HS 4b 2
104 Llys
-
VS 4c * 1
105 At a Pinch
-
E5 6c  
106 The Corner
-
E2 5b 1
107 The Edge
-
E2 5b 2
108 Osian
-
VS 4c 2
109 Nia Ben Aur
-
HS 4b * 1
110 All Work
-
S 4a 1
111 Forgotten Child
-
VS 4c  
112 No Play
-
VS 4b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer james.slater