Altitude 194m a.s.l
Nurgling through the overlaps, pitch 2 © Tim Sparrow
Originally described as 'a tiny crag', the Southern of the two cliffs at Craig Dinas is in fact over 45m (160') high.
The rock is compact rhyolite and in character,very similar to Carreg Alltrem just down the valley, giving very enjoyable climbing in low to mid grades, including some recently added routes as well as those in the Meirionydd guide..
The centre of the South (Main) Cliff is occupied by a massive pillar ('The Boulder') with the 'Gulls nest crack' on its left and a large overhang/cave to the right.
Lies above the Silver Fountain hotel on the A5 about 1.5mi from Betws y Coed. Park in the large 'National Trust' layby in the quarried area alongside the A5, North of Conwy Falls at SH808537.
Walk via the 'Silver fountain carpark to the public footpath heading North.
A large scree fan betwen the two cliffs is crossed by a faint path but BEWARE - in summer the vegetation takes over and a machete, native guide and sense of adventure may be needed. Approach is upwards of 15 minutes depending on vegetation.
Descent can also be interesting - the top of the climbs is a gorse and heather plateau, with descent down through the broad steep gully separating the two cliffs.
A Crag clean-up day in September 2017 has helped with these issues (including some in-situ Abseil points) and hopefully there will be a much needed and deserved increase in traffic.
|The house sized block 300 m west of main crag?? Well, the A5 is 200 m west of the main crag and 100m west of that is nothing just steep fields and woods down to the Afon Conwy. The mention of pockets suggests the post may refer to a different crag entirely?|
Mike Hammill - 03/Jul/15
|This Crag is also in the Meirionnydd guide.....|
amazingdave - 01/Jun/09
|7||By-ways (Variation 1)||VS 4b||2|
|8||By-ways (Variation 2)||S|
|9||Catriona and the Waves||E3 6a||3|
|10||Sinister Flutes||HS 4b||2|
|11||Scrub Way||HS 4b *||13|
|12||Right of Way||HVS 5a *||3|
|13||Dinas Mawr Eliminate||E1 5b *||10|
|14||Main Wall Climb||VS 4c *||13|
|15||Mr Blue Sky||E2 5c **||4|
|16||Gull's Nest Crack||S 4a||4|
|17||The Nurgler||VS 4b **||30|
|18||The Bolder Way||VS||2|
|19||The Burglar||HVS 5b *|
|21||Old-Timer’s Fugue||HVS 5a *|
|22||Ground Force||HVS 5a *||1|
|24||State of Independence||HVS 5a **||3|
|25||Groove Slab||VS *||6|
|26||A Swift’s Whim||E2 5b|
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