UKC

Climbs 33
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces S

Nurgling through the overlaps, pitch 2 © Tim Sparrow

Crag features

Originally described as 'a tiny crag', the Southern of the two cliffs at Craig Dinas is in fact over 45m (160') high.

The rock is compact rhyolite and in character,very similar to Carreg Alltrem just down the valley, giving very enjoyable climbing in low to mid grades, including some recently added routes as well as those in the Meirionydd guide..

The centre of the South (Main) Cliff is occupied by a massive pillar ('The Boulder') with the 'Gulls nest crack' on its left and a large overhang/cave to the right.

Approach notes

Lies above the Silver Fountain hotel on the A5 about 1.5mi from Betws y Coed. Park in the large 'National Trust' layby in the quarried area alongside the A5, North of Conwy Falls at SH808537.

Walk via the 'Silver fountain carpark to the public footpath heading North.

A large scree fan betwen the two cliffs is crossed by a faint path but BEWARE - in summer the vegetation takes over and a machete, native guide and sense of adventure may be needed. Approach is upwards of 15 minutes depending on vegetation.

Descent can also be interesting - the top of the climbs is a gorse and heather plateau, with descent down through the broad steep gully separating the two cliffs.  

A Crag clean-up day in September 2017 has helped with these issues (including some in-situ Abseil points) and hopefully there will be a much needed and deserved increase in traffic. 

Guidebooks

The house sized block 300 m west of main crag?? Well, the A5 is 200 m west of the main crag and 100m west of that is nothing just steep fields and woods down to the Afon Conwy. The mention of pockets suggests the post may refer to a different crag entirely?
Mike Hammill - 03/Jul/15
This Crag is also in the Meirionnydd guide.....
amazingdave - 01/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Cliff
2 Sheng VS 5a  
3 The Wanderer HS  
  South Cliff
5 Crossways VS 1
6 By-ways S 11
7 By-ways (Variation 1) VS 4b 2
8 By-ways (Variation 2) S  
9 Catriona and the Waves E3 6a 3
10 Sinister Flutes HS 4b 2
11 Scrub Way HS 4b * 13
12 Right of Way HVS 5a * 3
13 Dinas Mawr Eliminate E1 5b * 10
Climb name Grade
14 Main Wall Climb VS 4c * 13
15 Mr Blue Sky E2 5c ** 4
16 Gull's Nest Crack S 4a 4
17 The Nurgler VS 4b ** 30
18 The Bolder Way VS 2
19 The Burglar HVS 5b *  
20 Freeway HVS 3
21 Old-Timer’s Fugue HVS 5a *  
22 Ground Force HVS 5a * 1
23 Desire HS 4b 6
24 State of Independence HVS 5a ** 3
25 Groove Slab VS * 6
26 A Swift’s Whim E2 5b  
Climb name Grade
27 An Old Man's Whim
-
none  
28 Overhangs Indirect HVS 5a 3
29 Catcher in the Sky VS 4b  
30 Moss Rib S 1
  Top Buttress
32 White Rabbit S 1
  House sized crag 300m West ?
34 Mollzer VS 4c 1
35 Bat Groove HVS 5a *  
36 Haf E4 6a **  
  Teaching area
38 Teaching Wall D 1

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