Climbs 54
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 550m a.s.l
Faces SW

climber who leant us some sun cream on Outside edge. © adam06

Crag features

The best crag in this area, with a mountain feel. All multi-pitch routes up to 400ft. There is also an E4, for those interested. Notable for Outside Edge (V.Diff), Kirkus's Climb/Route (VS) and Jabberwocky (E2 5c).

Good slabby wall on the right with a steep wall of corners and overhangs and the left with some classic HVS to E2s on it.

Rockfall Warning at the top of Ordinary Route / Outside Edge Route. See BMC website for more details. [Sept 14]

The main slab faces SW, but is shaded from the sun early in the season. In the summer the crag makes a great afternoon venue when you may well appreciate why Sunset Ledge got its name. The main slab dries quickly after rain, although there is some seepage towards its right hand side. It is exposed to any wind.

Approach notes

From Pen y Groes on the A487, follow signs to Llanllyfni, then towards Tan yr Allt. Ignore the first road on the right (Tal Garnedd). Instead, take the next right up an unmarked road parallel to a stream. Continue to the end of the surfaced road and park through the gate in the field - don't try and drive up the track to the crag. From here, a pleasant path leads gently up towards the two tarns (Llynnau Cwm Silyn). Skirt around these and tackle the scree up to the crag.

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North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
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North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Central route (Not Central variation) S ? 2
  Eastern Section
3 Sunset Rib
D * 3
4 Black Gully
5 Nirvana Wall
S 1
6 Green Gully
HVS 5a  
7 Artist's Climb
D 2
  Ogof Nose - North Face
9 Jones's Traverse
VS 4c  
10 Brutus
E2 5c * 1
11 Ogof Direct
E1 5c * 6
12 Oblique Route
13 Desifinado
HVS 5a * 2
15 Eureka
E1 5b 1
16 Bandersnatch
E3 5c  
17 Codswallop
E2 5b * 1
18 Crucible E1 5b *** 121
19 Jabberwocky E2 5c ** 54
20 Bourdillon's Climb
E4 6a  
21 Penates
HVS 5a 5
Climb name Grade
22 The Ogof Traverse
HVS 5a *  
  Main Face
24 Outside Edge Route VD *** 662
25 Ordinary Route D ** 214
26 Fair to Middlin VS 4c  
27 Direct Route
VD 16
28 Central Variant HVS 5a * 8
29 Kirkus's Route VS 4c ** 403
30 Kirkus's Direct HVS 5b ** 111
  Upper Slab and South - West Buttress
32 Aquarius
VS 5a 1
33 Kangies Crawl VS  
34 Upper Slab Climb
S * 5
35 West Arete
VS 4c 1
36 Rib and Tower
  Amphitheatre Buttress
38 Original Route D 6
39 Gotogo
VS 4b  
40 Jericho D  
41 Tower of Strength
S 1
42 Afterthought
Climb name Grade
  Winter Routes
44 Prow Gully
45 Broad Gully
46 Black Gully
47 Atrocity Run
48 Aquarian Wall V  
49 White Snake V  
50 Amphitheatre Gully I 4
51 The Great Stone Shoot I 4
52 The Widow Of The Web IV ** 3
53 Kiss of the Spider Woman VI 6 ***  
54 Four Pitch Gully
55 Little Kitchen II/III 2
56 Mask of Death IV 5 *** 2
57 Bedrock Gully IV 5 ** 3
58 Carla V 5 ** 1
59 Pillars of Silyn VI 6 *** 2
60 Frozen in Time VIII 7 *** 3
61 Colin's Gulley V 5 *** 5

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