UKC

Climbs 452
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ben Bransby making the second ground-up ascent (5th overall ascent) of The Promise (E7) at Burbage North © Alan James

Crag features

A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). 

Approach notes

Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803), which is handily accessible by bus from Sheffield.

Access Advice

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and  this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Chant
2 North Roof f6A+ * 121
3 North roof variant f6B+ * 8
4 North Roof Eliminate V5 6a 4
5 RT Wall f5+ * 132
6 RT Wall - Right side V2 5c 49
7 Route 1 HS 4b * 1337
8 Route 1.25 VS 5c 201
9 Route 1.5 VS 5b * 785
10 Route 2 S 4a * 2129
11 Route 2.5 VS 5a * 569
12 Route 3 S 4a * 2045
13 Route 3.5 E1 6a 81
14 Route 4 HVS 5c * 356
15 Route 5 HVD 4a 624
16 First Wall Traverse f5+ * 141
17 First Wall Traverse Low f7B+ **  
18 Cranberry Wall VD 935
19 Cranberry Crack VD 1858
20 The Chant HVS 5a * 1391
21 The Chant Direct Finish E2 6a 110
22 Chant - Direct Start HVS 5b 205
23 Chant - Right Side HVS 5c 83
24 20 Foot Crack S 4b * 2386
25 20 Foot Traverse f5 * 56
26 Curse - Left Side VS 5b 81
27 The Curse VS 5b * 832
28 The Curse Start f5 *** 11
29 Lost in France VS 5c * 594
30 Ellis's Very Eliminate V3 2
  Triangle Buttress
32 Triangle Buttress Girdle
-
S 4b 54
33 Little Plumb D 1031
34 Base Over Apex VS 4c 357
35 Baseless HVD * 1222
36 Triangle Buttress Arete VD * 1415
37 Triangle Buttress Direct S 4a * 914
38 Triangle Buttress Direct Start f5 * 773
39 Triangle Crack HVD 4a * 844
40 Leaning Wall S 4b 297
41 Leaning Wall Start f4+ * 21
42 Leaning Wall Really Direct E1 6a 29
43 Leaning Wall Direct HS 5a * 807
44 Little White Jug VS 4c * 495
45 Little White Jug Start f4 * 21
46 Big Black 'un HVS 5a * 290
47 Steptoe M * 1020
48 ... and Son D 96
49 Triangle Traverse f6A+ ** 12
50 Low Triangle Traverse f6B * 40
  Banana Finger
52 Definitive 5.12 f6C ** 96
53 Easy Problem 1 f3+ 40
54 Easy Problem 2 f3+ 39
55 Cinzano Roof f7B * 7
56 Cinzano Roof (RH Start) f6C * 7
57 Monkey Crack f5+ ** 91
58 Monkey Corner HVD * 949
59 Monkey Corner Variant V2 5c 25
60 Banana Arete f5+ * 129
61 Banana Reverse f7A *** 130
62 Banana Finger Low Traverse f7B **  
63 Banana Finger Direct f6C *** 382
64 Sloper Pull f6C * 40
65 Banana Finger f6A *** 1298
66 Banana Right-hand f5+ * 36
67 Banana Embargo f7A 2
68 Banana boycott f7A+ * 1
69 Monkey Wall M 895
70 Monkey Wall Direct D 82
71 Monkey Wall Slot VS 4c 3
72 Monk On HVS 5b 136
  Overhanging Buttress
74 Ad Infinitum S 4a * 286
75 Little Brown Thug f6C+ *** 34
76 Wednesday Climb HVS 5b * 438
77 Wednesday Climb Start f5 ** 7
78 Life in a Radioactive Dustbin f6C *** 98
79 The Disposable Bubble E4 6b 23
80 Overhanging Buttress Direct S 4a * 1487
81 Overhang Buttress Variation VD 4a 160
82 Overhanging Buttress Arete M * 1208
83 Burgess Face HS 4c 258
84 Burgess Buttress D 744
85 Burgess Street D 438
86 Union Street S 4a 39
  All Quiet Area
88 Hush f5 * 11
89 Hush Arete f4+ * 20
90 All Quiet on the Eastern Front f6A+ *** 328
91 Captain Underpants f7B+ *  
92 All Quiet Direct f7A+ ** 64
93 All Sit-Down
-
f7B+ 7
94 The Busker VS 4c 503
95 Bracken Arete VS 4c 87
96 Bracken Crack HVD 4a * 724
97 Bracken Traverse f5+ * 10
98 Green Slab VS 5a 600
99 Back Street Mime Artist f8A *** 10
  Remergence Buttress
101 Fallen Slab Lip f7A 62
102 Fallen Slab without back arete f7B ** 1
103 The Busker Left Hand Start E1 6a * 1
104 In the flick of time f8A * 11
105 In The Flick Of Time Right-Hand
-
f7C 1
106 In The Flick Of Time Standing Start
-
f7B 5
107 Mr Sheen f7B+ * 2
108 Mr Sheen (sit start) f7B 3
109 The Grogan HVS 5c * 297
110 Groat E1 6b 12
111 Al's Arete E1 5c 4
112 Wollock Left Hand E1 5b 8
113 Wollock HVS 4c * 379
114 Wollock Direct HVS 5c 81
115 Wollock problem V2 5c 18
116 Pulcherrime VS 4b * 1119
117 Slanting Crack VD 395
118 Small is Beautiful f7A *** 128
119 Big Is Beautiful f7B ** 1
120 Slanting Gully D 224
121 Chockstone Climb VD * 218
122 Snatch E3 6a 3
123 Stomach Traverse HVS 4c * 117
124 Tiptoe VS 4c * 127
125 Gymnipodies E4 6b  
126 Want Not V6 1
127 Remergence E4 6b ** 42
128 Blind Date E4 7a * 16
129 Mutiny Crack HS 4b *** 1962
130 Meddle HVS 5a * 238
131 Detour S 4a * 421
132 Diversion HVS 5a 49
  Remergence Bouldering
134 The Hanging Rib f6B *** 459
135 Two sloper eliminate f6C 38
136 Undercut Slopers Eliminate f7A 1
137 One sloper eliminate f7B 16
138 Zaff's Groove f7A+ * 1
139 Submergence f7C ** 33
140 Remergence Start f6B *** 410
141 Blind Drunk f8A *** 10
142 Blind Drunk (Reach Method) f7B 2
143 Date Rape V12  
144 Blind Ali's date f7C+ ** 1
145 Blind Date Start f7B+ *** 80
146 Blind Fig f7C *** 24
147 Blind Fury f7C+ *  
148 Blind Ali f7B+ * 22
149 Break Traverse f7C+ *  
150 Remergence Lip Traverse f7A+ * 1
151 Love is Blind f8A **  
  Ash Tree Boulders
153 In Plain Sight f7A 4
154 Dead Tree Crack HS 4b * 138
155 Tree Stump Traverse f6A * 89
156 Side Face S 4a 147
157 Side Order Chaos VS 5a 28
158 And Beaker HVS 5b 10
Climb name Grade
159 Tiny Left Arete f4+ * 367
160 Tiny Slab Left f5 ** 446
161 Tiny Slab Right f6A *** 299
162 Tiny Right Arete f6C * 94
163 Rocket Boy f7A * 8
164 Tiny Roof f6A+ ** 48
165 Solitude f6C * 50
166 Ash Tree Big Slab f2+ * 42
167 Gruesome Mantel f6A * 26
168 Jammed Block Mantel f5+ * 33
169 Easy Arete f2+ * 42
170 Undercut Block Left f4+ 34
171 Undercut Block Right f4+ 35
172 Sick of Ants f6B+ 1
173 Shazam f6B+ 1
174 Unorthodox f6B  
  Ash Tree Wall
176 Ash Tree Little Slab f5 36
177 Sunlight Caller VS 5b 80
178 Oak Face HS 4b 99
179 Boggle Boothroyd VS 4c 53
180 The Last Great Problem HVS 5c 21
181 Striker Left-hand f7A+ ** 33
182 Striker f7C+ ** 5
183 Beach Tea One HVS 6a * 37
184 Ivy Tree HVS 5b * 221
185 Poison Ivy E1 6a 23
186 All Star's Goal E1 6a 66
187 Evening Wall E1 5b * 256
188 Wall Chimney S 4a * 127
189 Happily Ever After E6 6c * 3
190 Nefertiti E6 6c * 14
191 Wall Corner HVD 4a * 870
192 Wall Corner The Direct Finish VS 4c * 176
193 Ash Tree Arete VS 4c 40
194 Ash Tree Girdle S 4a 41
195 Ash Tree Variations VS 5c * 692
196 Ash Tree Variations Start f5+ ** 9
197 Ash Tree Wall S 4a ** 1884
198 Ash Tree Wall Eliminate VS 5b 74
199 Ash Trees Forever HVS 5b * 273
200 Ash Tree Crack VD * 1658
201 Artificial Stimulant/ Bilberry Pie E2 5b * 248
202 Bilberry Crack VD * 1385
203 Bilberry Face S 4a 807
204 Bilberry Arete M 371
205 Calvin Klimb E4 6b 1
206 Puck f7B ** 5
207 Twin Cracks VD 32
208 Rope Trick HS 4c 27
209 Who Needs Ropes? M 51
210 Head-Banger S 31
211 A Phenomenological Problem HVS 5b 23
212 Late Night Antics HVS 5c 3
213 Early Morning Performance HVS 5c 14
214 With a Little Help from my Friends E1 5b 2
215 Navana E6 6b * 4
216 Leaning Block Crack VD 67
217 Living in Oxford E7 7a ** 4
218 Sitting in Oxford f7A * 12
219 Superstition E8 7b ** 1
220 The Promise E8 7a *** 3
221 Green Chimney VD * 105
  The Terrace
223 The Terrace Left-hand f7C 4
224 The Terrace f7C *** 167
225 Jason's Roof f7B+ ** 5
226 Jason's stand-up V6 6b 34
227 6c under Jason's roof f6C 4
228 7a+ Under Jason's Roof f7A+ *** 6
229 Hanging arĂȘte V7 17
230 Hanging Wall f7A ** 60
231 La Terrace f8A  
232 Hanging Wall Sitter f7A 85
  The Sphinx Area
234 Giza f7B+ *** 31
235 The Sphinx f7A+ *** 28
236 Voyager f8B *** 5
237 Voyager Sit Start
-
f8B+  
238 Sputnik f7B+ 1
239 Cleo's Edge f5+ *** 400
240 Cleo's Right Hand f3+ * 191
241 Cleo's Slab f2+ 83
242 Cleo's Other Edge f2+ 74
243 Sphinx Slab f4 * 36
244 Roof Goofe f6B ** 127
245 Roof Goofe Right f6B ** 60
246 Jetty Aretty f5+ * 82
247 Jetty Buttress HVD 4b ** 112
248 Jetty Start f3 * 9
249 Jetty Nose f6A+ * 29
250 Pocket Passer f6B * 138
251 Jetty Bulge f6B ** 92
252 Safe Bet f6C *** 79
253 Long Shot f6B * 2
254 Bedrock f7A ** 42
255 Yabadabadoo f6C * 62
256 Answer the Phone f5 * 25
  The Sentinel
258 Chicken Broth HVD 4a 10
259 Sharks Fin Soup HVS 4c 9
260 The Gargoyle E2 5c 14
261 Phillipa Buttress VS 4c 23
262 Crystal Eyes f7A+ 1
263 Crystal Tips E3 6a 60
264 Stepped Crack D 544
265 Black Slab Arete S 4a 438
266 Black Slab VS 4b * 1122
267 Black Slab Direct Start E1 5c 4
268 Black Slab Variation D * 875
269 Green Groove HVD 3c 125
270 Kiss me my darling E2 5c  
271 Now or Never E1 5b ** 503
272 Too Good To Be Forgotten E2 6a 7
273 Sentinel Chimney HVD 4a * 312
274 The Sentinel E2 5b *** 590
275 Sentinel Indirect HVS 5a 21
276 Sentinel Crack (Burbage North) D * 855
277 Present Arms HS 4c 309
278 'Armless D 52
279 High Flyer E2 5b * 85
280 The Grazer VS 5a * 721
281 Lieback HS 4b * 1070
282 Think of England M 183
283 Ringo S 4a * 1115
284 Ring My Bell E4 6a 3
285 Damp Trousers E1 5a ** 10
286 Ring Piece HVS 6a 78
287 Ring Climb S 4a * 865
288 Ring Chimney Left ArĂȘte E1 5c 1
289 Ring Chimney D 332
290 Agnostic's Arete VS 5a * 253
291 Pickpocket VS 4c * 207
292 Cleft right of Pickpocket D 16
  Knights Move
294 Ninety Sevener E1 5a 2
295 Seventy Niner VS 4c 22
296 The Keffer HVS 5a * 310
297 With Juicy Bits HVS 5a 25
298 Small Beer HS 4a 23
299 Still Orange S 4a * 1245
300 Rise N Shine HVS 5a 44
301 Green Crack VD * 989
302 Dover's Progress HVS 5a * 351
303 Hollyash Crack VS 4b ** 1412
304 En Passant
-
E2 6a 3
305 Knight's Move HVS 5a *** 2900
306 Peter's Progress VS 4c ** 218
307 Peter's Progress hvs finish HVS 5a 3
308 Arme Blanche E5 6a * 23
309 Great Crack VS 5a ** 650
310 King's Return E2 5b 9
311 The Big Chimney HS 4b * 164
312 The Rainmaker HVS 5b ** 393
313 Windjammer E1 5b * 245
314 Big Chimney Arete HS 4b * 978
315 Beautifully Dangerous f6B * 2
316 Barry Manilow VS 4c * 200
Climb name Grade
  Boyager
318 Bubble V6 ** 5
319 Boyager f7A+ ** 121
320 Mono Bulge f7B ** 15
321 Monochrome f7B *** 124
322 Asylum Sika f7B * 40
323 Asylum Sika low right f7C ** 3
324 La Poo
-
f7B 8
325 La Poo Assis f7C 7
326 Ripple Riser f6B * 31
327 Duo bulge f6B 2
328 Snappy Duds V7 ** 1
  Twin Chimneys to Tharf Cake
330 December Climb VD 14
331 Snowflakes VD 14
332 Survivor's Syndrome E2 5b 7
333 Twin Chimneys Layback HVD 4a ** 365
334 Left Twin Chimney VD 66
335 Right Twin Chimney HVD 66
336 The Happy Slapper HVS 5a 35
337 Jimmy Riddle VS 4c 30
338 Always another one VS 5b 11
339 Bulletproof
-
E1 6a 20
340 Split Slab Crack S 4a 118
341 Split Slab HVD 4b * 103
342 Slide Away E1 5a * 52
343 Grotto Slab M 200
344 Grotto Slab Variant S 3c 31
345 Grotto Crack VS 4b 33
346 Submission VS 5a * 151
347 Temptation HS 4a 6
348 Falstaff's Chimney VD * 120
349 Falstaff's Innominate S 4b * 397
350 Falstaff's Crack D 296
351 Pale Face HVS 5a 23
352 Horse Nation E1 5b  
353 Bilberry Cake VS 4c * 560
354 Bilberry Wall VD * 639
355 Bilberry Arete S 4a * 412
356 The Edging Machine HVS 5b 100
357 Alpha Crack HS 4b 225
358 Omega Crack VD 261
359 Blinkers VS 4c 11
360 Scarred Buttress Climb VD * 349
361 Clinkers VS 5a 5
362 First Crack S 4b 480
363 Tharf Cake HVS 5a * 330
364 Left Twin Crack S 4a * 654
365 Right Twin Crack HVD 4a * 566
366 Farcical Arete HS 4b * 389
367 Sally's Smile VD 4a 2
  Brooks' Layback
369 The Irrepressible Urge E1 5b ** 186
370 The Arctic Mammal E3 6a * 22
371 Small Arctic Mammal
-
E1 6a 38
372 Left Recess Crack S 3c * 560
373 Right Recess Crack HS 4a 169
374 Ace VS 4b * 257
375 The Chimney D 77
376 The Crack HS 4a 97
377 Ace Sharp Arete V3 6a 8
378 Thrall's Thrutch S 4a * 74
379 Brooks' Layback HS 4b ** 1072
380 Wobblestone Crack HVD 4a * 586
381 Biscuits for Breakfast E4 6b 3
382 Red Shift E3 5c 2
  Long Tall Sally
384 Hollybush Gully VD 134
385 The Screamer E1 5c * 25
386 Gazebo Watusi E6 6b * 3
387 Obscenity VS 4c *** 502
388 Amazon Crack HS 4b *** 1688
389 Artemis HVS 5a 5
390 Amazon Gully M 272
391 Lastest Greatest Problemest E1 5a 1
392 Boney Moroney E2 5c * 117
393 Rockers E1 5c * 11
394 Long Tall Sally E1 5b *** 1683
395 Bat One Blind E1 5c ** 3
396 Three Blind Mice E7 6c ** 46
397 Short Fat Bastard
-
E1 5b 1
398 Greeny Crack VS 4b ** 1106
399 Rhapsody in Green HVS 5a 61
400 Left Studio Climb VD 396
401 The Artist VS 5a 42
402 Right Studio Climb VD 423
403 Rose Flake VS 4b * 379
404 6c Arete below Long Tall Sally f6C 15
405 The Fin E1 5b * 201
406 Ai No Corrida E5 6b ** 49
407 Right Fin HVS 5a ** 820
408 Twenty Year Itch E4 6b 5
409 The Enthusiast f6A+ *** 64
410 Nicotine Stain f6B *** 195
411 Nicarete f5 *** 31
412 April Fool HVD 395
413 Approach HVS 5c * 83
414 Spider Crack VS 5b * 659
415 The Be All HVD 4a 392
416 Pest Control f6B * 7
417 The End All HS 4b 162
418 The end all slab V3 4
  End Slab
420 Shelf Wall f5+ * 68
421 Unnamed #3 HS 4b 13
422 End Buttress D 416
423 The Penultimate E1 5b * 345
424 Right Arete f7A ** 3
425 End Slab D * 759
426 End Slab Start f2+ * 17
427 False End Slab
-
D 56
428 End Slab Ramp D 103
429 Two Pocket Sitter f5+ ** 242
430 Front End Face f4+ * 18
431 Front End Face Right Arete V0+ * 19
432 Plank Sanction f7B ** 5
433 Front End Slab VD 77
434 Back End Slab D 501
435 Ender D * 710
436 Crack Habit f5+ ** 46
437 Endest Arete VD 343
438 Endste D 511
439 Grizzly Bear f6C+ * 17
440 Almost the last word E1 5c 24
441 Pocket Dyno f7A ** 6
442 Capped Rib f6A ** 76
443 Tidal Wave V0- 6
444 Tidal Wave (Sit Start) f6A 2
445 Beardown f7A+ 1
446 Grizzly bear LH
-
f6C+ 2
  Velvet Roof
448 Pincer f6C+ 2
449 Velvet Crab f7A+ ** 79
450 Velvet Roof f5+ * 9
451 Right-hand Roof f6B * 21
452 Zaff Skoczylas f7C ** 68
453 Zaff Skoczylas (sit start) f7B+ ** 50
454 Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand f7C 12
  End Boulders
456 Side-wall f4+ * 11
457 Little Cube Arete f5 ** 46
458 Once Upon A Time f7C **  
459 Beyond The End f4 ** 86
460 Daddy Wall f4 * 125
461 Daddy Bear Arete f4+ * 104
462 Daddy Arete Right f4+ 92
463 Daddy's Arete Right - Right. V0 4c 26
464 Daddy Right Arete f3+ 76
465 Mommy Wall f4+ * 118
466 Mommy Bear Arete f4+ * 105
467 Mommy Bear Right f5 * 126
468 Don't get between f2+ 46
469 Baby Bear Wall f4+ * 103
470 Baby Bear Arete f4 * 105
  Location Uncertain
472 Pearl Tree Crack
-
HS 4b 1
473 Kirkpatrick's Corner S 4a 1

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