UKC

Climbs 454
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ben Bransby making the second ground-up ascent (5th overall ascent) of The Promise (E7) at Burbage North © Alan James

Crag features

A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). 

Approach notes

Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803), which is handily accessible by bus from Sheffield.

Access Advice

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and  this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Chant
2 North Roof f6A+ * 135
3 North roof variant f6B+ * 8
4 North Roof Eliminate V5 6a 6
5 RT Wall f5+ * 150
6 RT Wall - Right side V2 5c 53
7 Route 1 HS 4b * 1380
8 Route 1.25 VS 5c 205
9 Route 1.5 VS 5b * 809
10 Route 2 S 4a * 2213
11 Route 2.5 VS 5a * 585
12 Route 3 S 4a * 2136
13 Route 3.5 E1 6a 83
14 Route 4 HVS 5c * 371
15 Route 5 HVD 4a 657
16 First Wall Traverse f5+ * 155
17 First Wall Traverse Low f7B+ ** 3
18 Cranberry Wall VD 975
19 Cranberry Crack VD 1917
20 The Chant HVS 5a * 1432
21 The Chant Direct Finish E2 6a 112
22 Chant - Direct Start HVS 5b 212
23 Chant - Right Side HVS 5c 86
24 20 Foot Crack S 4b * 2469
25 20 Foot Traverse f5 * 60
26 Curse - Left Side VS 5b 81
27 The Curse VS 5b * 857
28 The Curse Start f5 *** 19
29 Lost in France VS 5c * 608
30 Ellis's Very Eliminate V3 3
  Triangle Buttress
32 Triangle Buttress Girdle
-
S 4b 59
33 Little Plumb D 1071
34 Base Over Apex VS 4c 371
35 Baseless HVD * 1278
36 Triangle Buttress Arete VD * 1472
37 Triangle Buttress Direct S 4a * 956
38 Triangle Buttress Direct Start f5 * 783
39 Triangle Crack HVD 4a * 884
40 Leaning Wall S 4b 310
41 Leaning Wall Start f4+ * 30
42 Leaning Wall Really Direct E1 6a 29
43 Leaning Wall Direct HS 5a * 846
44 Little White Jug VS 4c * 529
45 Little White Jug Start f4 * 29
46 Big Black 'un HVS 5a * 311
47 Steptoe M * 1065
48 ... and Son D 115
49 Triangle Traverse f6A+ ** 18
50 Low Triangle Traverse f6B * 43
  Banana Finger
52 Definitive 5.12 f6C ** 102
53 Easy Problem 1 f3+ 52
54 Easy Problem 2 f3+ 50
55 Cinzano Roof f7B * 7
56 Cinzano Roof (RH Start) f6C * 7
57 Monkey Crack f5+ ** 104
58 Monkey Corner HVD * 986
59 Monkey Corner Variant V2 5c 25
60 Banana Arete f5+ * 133
61 Banana Reverse f7A *** 136
62 Banana Finger Low Traverse f7B **  
63 Banana Finger Direct f6C *** 395
64 Sloper Pull f6C * 45
65 Banana Finger f6A *** 1356
66 Banana Right-hand f5+ * 44
67 Banana Embargo f7A 2
68 Banana boycott f7A+ * 1
69 Monkey Wall M 928
70 Monkey Wall Direct D 96
71 Monkey Wall Slot VS 4c 3
72 Monk On HVS 5b 145
73 Definitive 5.12 Left Hand Exit * f7A+ *** 2
  Overhanging Buttress
75 Ad Infinitum S 4a * 301
76 Little Brown Thug f6C+ *** 35
77 Wednesday Climb HVS 5b * 449
78 Wednesday Climb Start f5 ** 9
79 Life in a Radioactive Dustbin f6C *** 101
80 The Disposable Bubble E4 6b 24
81 Overhanging Buttress Direct S 4a * 1548
82 Overhang Buttress Variation VD 4a 178
83 Overhanging Buttress Arete M * 1264
84 Burgess Face HS 4c 273
85 Burgess Buttress D 785
86 Burgess Street D 461
87 Union Street S 4a 48
  All Quiet Area
89 Hush f5 * 15
90 Hush Arete f4+ * 25
91 All Quiet on the Eastern Front f6A+ *** 332
92 Captain Underpants f7B+ *  
93 All Quiet Direct f7A+ ** 65
94 All Sit-Down
-
f7B+ 7
95 The Busker VS 4c 524
96 Bracken Arete VS 4c 89
97 Bracken Crack HVD 4a * 749
98 Bracken Traverse f5+ * 10
99 Green Slab VS 5a 616
100 Back Street Mime Artist f8A *** 10
  Remergence Buttress
102 Fallen Slab Lip f7A 68
103 Fallen Slab without back arete f7B ** 1
104 The Busker Left Hand Start E1 6a * 1
105 In the flick of time f8A * 14
106 In The Flick Of Time Right-Hand
-
f7C 1
107 In The Flick Of Time Standing Start
-
f7B 7
108 Mr Sheen f7B+ * 2
109 Mr Sheen (sit start) f7B 3
110 The Grogan HVS 5c * 307
111 Groat E1 6b 12
112 Al's Arete E1 5c 4
113 Wollock Left Hand E1 5b 10
114 Wollock HVS 4c * 389
115 Wollock Direct HVS 5c 83
116 Wollock problem V2 5c 18
117 Pulcherrime VS 4b * 1164
118 Slanting Crack VD 409
119 Small is Beautiful f7A *** 138
120 Big Is Beautiful f7B ** 1
121 Slanting Gully D 233
122 Chockstone Climb VD * 237
123 Snatch E3 6a 3
124 Stomach Traverse HVS 4c * 127
125 Tiptoe VS 4c * 130
126 Gymnipodies E4 6b  
127 Want Not V6 1
128 Remergence E4 6b ** 43
129 Blind Date E4 7a * 17
130 Mutiny Crack HS 4b *** 2052
131 Meddle HVS 5a * 251
132 Detour S 4a * 452
133 Diversion HVS 5a 53
  Remergence Bouldering
135 The Hanging Rib f6B *** 487
136 Two sloper eliminate f6C 42
137 Undercut Slopers Eliminate f7A 1
138 One sloper eliminate f7B 16
139 Zaff's Groove f7A+ * 1
140 Submergence f7C ** 38
141 Remergence Start f6B *** 427
142 Blind Drunk f8A *** 10
143 Blind Drunk (Reach Method) f7B 2
144 Date Rape V12  
145 Blind Ali's date f7C+ ** 1
146 Blind Date Start f7B+ *** 84
147 Blind Fig f7C *** 25
148 Blind Fury f7C+ *  
149 Blind Ali f7B+ * 22
150 Break Traverse f7C+ *  
151 Remergence Lip Traverse f7A+ * 2
152 Love is Blind f8A **  
  Ash Tree Boulders
154 In Plain Sight f7A 5
155 Dead Tree Crack HS 4b * 144
156 Tree Stump Traverse f6A * 101
157 Side Face S 4a 159
158 Side Order Chaos VS 5a 29
159 And Beaker HVS 5b 10
Climb name Grade
160 Tiny Left Arete f4+ * 390
161 Tiny Slab Left f5 ** 476
162 Tiny Slab Right f6A *** 320
163 Tiny Right Arete f6C * 97
164 Rocket Boy f7A * 8
165 Tiny Roof f6A+ ** 62
166 Solitude f6C * 51
167 Ash Tree Big Slab f2+ * 43
168 Gruesome Mantel f6A * 26
169 Jammed Block Mantel f5+ * 33
170 Easy Arete f2+ * 45
171 Undercut Block Left f4+ 35
172 Undercut Block Right f4+ 36
173 Sick of Ants f6B+ 1
174 Shazam f6B+ 1
175 Unorthodox f6B  
  Ash Tree Wall
177 Ash Tree Little Slab f5 39
178 Sunlight Caller VS 5b 85
179 Oak Face HS 4b 106
180 Boggle Boothroyd VS 4c 55
181 The Last Great Problem HVS 5c 21
182 Striker Left-hand f7A+ ** 34
183 Striker f7C+ ** 5
184 Beach Tea One HVS 6a * 40
185 Ivy Tree HVS 5b * 229
186 Poison Ivy E1 6a 23
187 All Star's Goal E1 6a 66
188 Evening Wall E1 5b * 260
189 Wall Chimney S 4a * 135
190 Happily Ever After E6 6c * 3
191 Nefertiti E6 6c * 14
192 Wall Corner HVD 4a * 912
193 Wall Corner The Direct Finish VS 4c * 186
194 Ash Tree Arete VS 4c 41
195 Ash Tree Girdle S 4a 42
196 Ash Tree Variations VS 5c * 712
197 Ash Tree Variations Start f5+ ** 12
198 Ash Tree Wall S 4a ** 1959
199 Ash Tree Wall Eliminate VS 5b 78
200 Ash Trees Forever HVS 5b * 283
201 Ash Tree Crack VD * 1751
202 Artificial Stimulant/ Bilberry Pie E2 5b * 257
203 Bilberry Crack VD * 1452
204 Bilberry Face S 4a 848
205 Bilberry Arete M 390
206 Calvin Klimb E4 6b 2
207 Puck f7B ** 5
208 Twin Cracks VD 40
209 Rope Trick HS 4c 29
210 Who Needs Ropes? M 54
211 Head-Banger S 33
212 A Phenomenological Problem HVS 5b 23
213 Late Night Antics HVS 5c 3
214 Early Morning Performance HVS 5c 15
215 With a Little Help from my Friends E1 5b 2
216 Navana E6 6b * 4
217 Leaning Block Crack VD 71
218 Living in Oxford E7 7a ** 4
219 Sitting in Oxford f7A * 14
220 Superstition E8 7b ** 2
221 The Promise E8 7a *** 4
222 Green Chimney VD * 112
223 Clunge * f7B 1
  The Terrace
225 The Terrace Left-hand f7C 4
226 The Terrace f7C *** 172
227 Jason's Roof f7B+ ** 5
228 Jason's stand-up V6 6b 37
229 6c under Jason's roof f6C 4
230 7a+ Under Jason's Roof f7A+ *** 6
231 Hanging arĂȘte V7 17
232 Hanging Wall f7A ** 63
233 La Terrace f8A  
234 Hanging Wall Sitter f7A 86
  The Sphinx Area
236 Giza f7B+ *** 32
237 The Sphinx f7A+ *** 28
238 Voyager f8B *** 7
239 Voyager Sit Start
-
f8B+  
240 Sputnik f7B+ 1
241 Cleo's Edge f5+ *** 418
242 Cleo's Right Hand f3+ * 199
243 Cleo's Slab f2+ 92
244 Cleo's Other Edge f2+ 83
245 Sphinx Slab f4 * 38
246 Roof Goofe f6B ** 132
247 Roof Goofe Right f6B ** 61
248 Jetty Aretty f5+ * 83
249 Jetty Buttress HVD 4b ** 114
250 Jetty Start f3 * 11
251 Jetty Nose f6A+ * 30
252 Pocket Passer f6B * 142
253 Jetty Bulge f6B ** 95
254 Safe Bet f6C *** 82
255 Long Shot f6B * 2
256 Bedrock f7A ** 47
257 Yabadabadoo f6C * 65
258 Answer the Phone f5 * 25
  The Sentinel
260 Chicken Broth HVD 4a 11
261 Sharks Fin Soup HVS 4c 9
262 The Gargoyle E2 5c 14
263 Phillipa Buttress VS 4c 24
264 Crystal Eyes f7A+ 1
265 Crystal Tips E3 6a 63
266 Stepped Crack D 562
267 Black Slab Arete S 4a 461
268 Black Slab VS 4b * 1163
269 Black Slab Direct Start E1 5c 4
270 Black Slab Variation D * 914
271 Green Groove HVD 3c 132
272 Kiss Me My Darling E2 5c 1
273 Now or Never E1 5b ** 520
274 Too Good To Be Forgotten E2 6a 8
275 Sentinel Chimney HVD 4a * 328
276 The Sentinel E2 5b *** 611
277 Sentinel Indirect HVS 5a 25
278 Sentinel Crack (Burbage North) D * 897
279 Present Arms HS 4c 319
280 'Armless D 59
281 High Flyer E2 5b * 89
282 The Grazer VS 5a * 755
283 Lieback HS 4b * 1112
284 Think of England M 189
285 Ringo S 4a * 1156
286 Ring My Bell E4 6a 3
287 Damp Trousers E1 5a ** 10
288 Ring Piece HVS 6a 81
289 Ring Climb S 4a * 899
290 Ring Chimney Left ArĂȘte E1 5c 1
291 Ring Chimney D 342
292 Agnostic's Arete VS 5a * 265
293 Pickpocket VS 4c * 224
294 Cleft right of Pickpocket D 17
  Knights Move
296 Ninety Sevener E1 5a 2
297 Seventy Niner VS 4c 23
298 The Keffer HVS 5a * 327
299 With Juicy Bits HVS 5a 28
300 Small Beer HS 4a 26
301 Still Orange S 4a * 1288
302 Rise N Shine HVS 5a 52
303 Green Crack VD * 1028
304 Dover's Progress HVS 5a * 362
305 Hollyash Crack VS 4b ** 1485
306 En Passant
-
E2 6a 3
307 Knight's Move HVS 5a *** 3019
308 Peter's Progress VS 4c ** 230
309 Peter's Progress hvs finish HVS 5a 4
310 Arme Blanche E5 6a * 27
311 Great Crack VS 5a ** 693
312 King's Return E2 5b 9
313 The Big Chimney HS 4b * 179
314 The Rainmaker HVS 5b ** 411
315 Windjammer E1 5b * 254
316 Big Chimney Arete HS 4b * 1016
317 Beautifully Dangerous f6B * 2
318 Barry Manilow VS 4c * 204
Climb name Grade
  Boyager
320 Bubble V6 ** 5
321 Boyager f7A+ ** 135
322 Mono Bulge f7B ** 15
323 Monochrome f7B *** 136
324 Asylum Sika f7B * 40
325 Asylum Sika low right f7C ** 3
326 La Poo
-
f7B 8
327 La Poo Assis f7C 9
328 Ripple Riser f6B * 39
329 Duo bulge f6B 2
330 Snappy Duds V7 ** 1
  Twin Chimneys to Tharf Cake
332 December Climb VD 15
333 Snowflakes VD 15
334 Survivor's Syndrome E2 5b 8
335 Twin Chimneys Layback HVD 4a ** 361
336 Left Twin Chimney VD 70
337 Right Twin Chimney HVD 73
338 The Happy Slapper HVS 5a 36
339 Jimmy Riddle VS 4c 30
340 Always another one VS 5b 12
341 Bulletproof
-
E1 6a 20
342 Split Slab Crack S 4a 121
343 Split Slab HVD 4b * 106
344 Slide Away E1 5a * 54
345 Grotto Slab M 205
346 Grotto Slab Variant S 3c 32
347 Grotto Crack VS 4b 33
348 Submission VS 5a * 154
349 Temptation HS 4a 6
350 Falstaff's Chimney VD * 122
351 Falstaff's Innominate S 4b * 409
352 Falstaff's Crack D 300
353 Pale Face HVS 5a 23
354 Horse Nation E1 5b  
355 Bilberry Cake VS 4c * 585
356 Bilberry Wall VD * 673
357 Bilberry Arete S 4a * 428
358 The Edging Machine HVS 5b 102
359 Alpha Crack HS 4b 234
360 Omega Crack VD 269
361 Blinkers VS 4c 11
362 Scarred Buttress Climb VD * 369
363 Clinkers VS 5a 5
364 First Crack S 4b 493
365 Tharf Cake HVS 5a * 343
366 Left Twin Crack S 4a * 675
367 Right Twin Crack HVD 4a * 581
368 Farcical Arete HS 4b * 402
369 Sally's Smile VD 4a 2
  Brooks' Layback
371 The Irrepressible Urge E1 5b ** 194
372 The Arctic Mammal E3 6a * 23
373 Small Arctic Mammal
-
E1 6a 40
374 Left Recess Crack S 3c * 575
375 Right Recess Crack HS 4a 172
376 Ace VS 4b * 264
377 The Chimney D 78
378 The Crack HS 4a 107
379 Ace Sharp Arete V3 6a 8
380 Thrall's Thrutch S 4a * 76
381 Brooks' Layback HS 4b ** 1114
382 Wobblestone Crack HVD 4a * 607
383 Biscuits for Breakfast E4 6b 3
384 Red Shift E3 5c 2
  Long Tall Sally
386 Hollybush Gully VD 137
387 The Screamer E1 5c * 25
388 Gazebo Watusi E6 6b * 3
389 Obscenity VS 4c *** 535
390 Amazon Crack HS 4b *** 1773
391 Artemis HVS 5a 5
392 Amazon Gully M 279
393 Lastest Greatest Problemest E1 5a 1
394 Boney Moroney E2 5c * 118
395 Rockers E1 5c * 11
396 Long Tall Sally E1 5b *** 1749
397 Bat One Blind E1 5c ** 3
398 Three Blind Mice E7 6c ** 46
399 Short Fat Bastard
-
E1 5b 1
400 Greeny Crack VS 4b ** 1159
401 Rhapsody in Green HVS 5a 62
402 Left Studio Climb VD 403
403 The Artist VS 5a 49
404 Right Studio Climb VD 436
405 Rose Flake VS 4b * 390
406 6c Arete below Long Tall Sally f6C 15
407 The Fin E1 5b * 209
408 Ai No Corrida E5 6b ** 49
409 Right Fin HVS 5a ** 845
410 Twenty Year Itch E4 6b 5
411 The Enthusiast f6A+ *** 65
412 Nicotine Stain f6B *** 200
413 Nicarete f5 *** 37
414 April Fool HVD 404
415 Approach HVS 5c * 87
416 Spider Crack VS 5b * 675
417 The Be All HVD 4a 398
418 Pest Control f6B * 9
419 The End All HS 4b 165
420 The end all slab V3 5
  End Slab
422 Shelf Wall f5+ * 71
423 Unnamed #3 HS 4b 13
424 End Buttress D 423
425 The Penultimate E1 5b * 356
426 Right Arete f7A ** 3
427 End Slab D * 782
428 End Slab Start f2+ * 20
429 False End Slab
-
D 57
430 End Slab Ramp D 108
431 Two Pocket Sitter f5+ ** 249
432 Front End Face f4+ * 23
433 Front End Face Right Arete V0+ * 21
434 Plank Sanction f7B ** 6
435 Front End Slab VD 84
436 Back End Slab D 526
437 Ender D * 737
438 Crack Habit f5+ ** 55
439 Endest Arete VD 352
440 Endste D 522
441 Grizzly Bear f6C+ * 18
442 Almost the last word E1 5c 24
443 Pocket Dyno f7A ** 8
444 Capped Rib f6A ** 79
445 Tidal Wave V0- 6
446 Tidal Wave (Sit Start) f6A 2
447 Beardown f7A+ 1
448 Grizzly bear LH
-
f6C+ 3
  Velvet Roof
450 Pincer f6C+ 3
451 Velvet Crab f7A+ ** 83
452 Velvet Roof f5+ * 9
453 Right-hand Roof f6B * 26
454 Zaff Skoczylas f7C ** 72
455 Zaff Skoczylas (sit start) f7B+ ** 55
456 Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand f7C 12
  End Boulders
458 Side-wall f4+ * 12
459 Little Cube Arete f5 ** 47
460 Once Upon A Time f7C **  
461 Beyond The End f4 ** 89
462 Daddy Wall f4 * 131
463 Daddy Bear Arete f4+ * 106
464 Daddy Arete Right f4+ 94
465 Daddy's Arete Right - Right. V0 4c 27
466 Daddy Right Arete f3+ 79
467 Mommy Wall f4+ * 120
468 Mommy Bear Arete f4+ * 108
469 Mommy Bear Right f5 * 130
470 Don't get between f2+ 53
471 Baby Bear Wall f4+ * 107
472 Baby Bear Arete f4 * 110
  Location Uncertain
474 Pearl Tree Crack
-
HS 4b 1
475 Kirkpatrick's Corner S 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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