UKC

Climbs 452
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 420m a.s.l
Faces SW

Ben Bransby making the second ground-up ascent (5th overall ascent) of The Promise (E7) at Burbage North © Alan James

Crag features

A fairly continuous section of small natural buttress (8 - 15m) of good grit. A popular Summer evening soloing and bouldering venue with routes mainly in the lower to middle grades. Classics include Mutiny Crack (VS 4b), The Knight's Move (HVS 5a), Obscenity (VS 4c), Amazon Crack (HS 4a) and Long Tall Sally (E1 5b). 

Approach notes

Approach from the Upper Burbage Bridge (SK 263829 - car parking) in less than 2 min! A more leisurely approach can be made up the Burbage Valley from just below The Fox House Inn (SK 267803), which is handily accessible by bus from Sheffield.

Access Advice

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Burbage, Stanage and Bamford and  this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The footholds above the bulge on Long Tall Sally are getting a bit polished
Impact John - 24/May/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Chant
2 North Roof f6A+ * 121
3 North roof variant f6B+ * 8
4 North Roof Eliminate V5 6a 3
5 RT Wall f5+ * 131
6 RT Wall - Right side V2 5c 49
7 Route 1 HS 4b * 1329
8 Route 1.25 VS 5c 200
9 Route 1.5 VS 5b * 784
10 Route 2 S 4a * 2119
11 Route 2.5 VS 5a * 565
12 Route 3 S 4a * 2031
13 Route 3.5 E1 6a 81
14 Route 4 HVS 5c * 354
15 Route 5 HVD 4a 622
16 First Wall Traverse f5+ * 141
17 First Wall Traverse Low f7B+ **  
18 Cranberry Wall VD 932
19 Cranberry Crack VD 1852
20 The Chant HVS 5a * 1387
21 The Chant Direct Finish E2 6a 108
22 Chant - Direct Start HVS 5b 205
23 Chant - Right Side HVS 5c 83
24 20 Foot Crack S 4b * 2362
25 20 Foot Traverse f5 * 56
26 Curse - Left Side VS 5b 81
27 The Curse VS 5b * 830
28 The Curse Start f5 *** 11
29 Lost in France VS 5c * 592
30 Ellis's Very Eliminate V3 2
  Triangle Buttress
32 Triangle Buttress Girdle
-
S 4b 53
33 Little Plumb D 1022
34 Base Over Apex VS 4c 356
35 Baseless HVD * 1215
36 Triangle Buttress Arete VD * 1406
37 Triangle Buttress Direct S 4a * 902
38 Triangle Buttress Direct Start f5 * 770
39 Triangle Crack HVD 4a * 834
40 Leaning Wall S 4b 295
41 Leaning Wall Start f4+ * 20
42 Leaning Wall Really Direct E1 6a 28
43 Leaning Wall Direct HS 5a * 799
44 Little White Jug VS 4c * 487
45 Little White Jug Start f4 * 19
46 Big Black 'un HVS 5a * 284
47 Steptoe M * 1005
48 ... and Son D 88
49 Triangle Traverse f6A+ ** 13
50 Low Triangle Traverse f6B * 40
  Banana Finger
52 Definitive 5.12 f6C ** 96
53 Easy Problem 1 f3+ 40
54 Easy Problem 2 f3+ 39
55 Cinzano Roof f7B * 7
56 Cinzano Roof (RH Start) f6C * 7
57 Monkey Crack f5+ ** 90
58 Monkey Corner HVD * 945
59 Monkey Corner Variant V2 5c 25
60 Banana Arete f5+ * 128
61 Banana Reverse f7A *** 130
62 Banana Finger Direct f6C *** 382
63 Sloper Pull f6C * 40
64 Banana Finger f6A *** 1294
65 Banana Right-hand f5+ * 36
66 Banana Embargo f7A 2
67 Banana boycott f7A+ * 1
68 Monkey Wall M 888
69 Monkey Wall Direct D 80
70 Monkey Wall Slot VS 4c 3
71 Monk On HVS 5b 135
  Overhanging Buttress
73 Ad Infinitum S 4a * 285
74 Little Brown Thug f6C+ *** 34
75 Wednesday Climb HVS 5b * 437
76 Wednesday Climb Start f5 ** 7
77 Life in a Radioactive Dustbin f6C *** 98
78 The Disposable Bubble E4 6b 23
79 Overhanging Buttress Direct S 4a * 1477
80 Overhang Buttress Variation VD 4a 158
81 Overhanging Buttress Arete M * 1196
82 Burgess Face HS 4c 256
83 Burgess Buttress D 738
84 Burgess Street D 437
85 Union Street S 4a 35
  All Quiet Area
87 Hush f5 * 10
88 Hush Arete f4+ * 20
89 All Quiet on the Eastern Front f6A+ *** 328
90 Captain Underpants f7B+ *  
91 All Quiet Direct f7A+ ** 64
92 All Sit-Down
-
f7B+ 7
93 The Busker VS 4c 502
94 Bracken Arete VS 4c 87
95 Bracken Crack HVD 4a * 720
96 Bracken Traverse f5+ * 10
97 Green Slab VS 5a 598
98 Back Street Mime Artist f8A *** 10
  Remergence Buttress
100 Fallen Slab Lip f7A 60
101 The Busker Left Hand Start * E1 6a * 1
102 In the flick of time f8A * 11
103 In The Flick Of Time Right-Hand
-
f7C 1
104 In The Flick Of Time Standing Start
-
f7B 5
105 Mr Sheen f7B+ * 2
106 Mr Sheen (sit start) f7B 3
107 The Grogan HVS 5c * 296
108 Groat E1 6b 12
109 Al's Arete E1 5c 4
110 Wollock Left Hand E1 5b 8
111 Wollock HVS 4c * 378
112 Wollock Direct HVS 5c 80
113 Wollock problem V2 5c 18
114 Pulcherrime VS 4b * 1110
115 Slanting Crack VD 393
116 Small is Beautiful f7A *** 128
117 Big Is Beautiful f7A+ ** 1
118 Slanting Gully D 224
119 Chockstone Climb VD * 217
120 Snatch E3 6a 3
121 Stomach Traverse HVS 4c * 117
122 Tiptoe VS 4c * 127
123 Gymnipodies E4 6b  
124 Want Not V6 1
125 The Hanging Rib f6B *** 458
126 Submergence f7C ** 33
127 Zaff's Groove f7A+ * 1
128 Remergence E4 6b ** 42
129 Remergence Start f6B *** 409
130 Blind Drunk f8A *** 10
131 Blind Drunk (Reach Method) f7B 2
132 Date Rape V12  
133 Blind Ali's date f7C+ ** 1
134 Blind Date E4 7a * 16
135 Blind Date Start f7B+ *** 80
136 Blind Fig f7C *** 24
137 Blind Fury f7C+ *  
138 Blind Ali f7B+ * 22
139 Break Traverse f7C+ *  
140 Remergence Lip Traverse f7A+ * 1
141 One sloper eliminate f7B 16
142 Two sloper eliminate f6C 38
143 Mutiny Crack HS 4b *** 1941
144 Meddle HVS 5a * 235
145 Detour S 4a * 418
146 Diversion HVS 5a 48
147 Fallen Slab without back arete f7B ** 1
148 Love is Blind f8A **  
  Ash Tree Boulders
150 In Plain Sight f7A 4
151 Dead Tree Crack HS 4b * 137
152 Tree Stump Traverse f6A * 88
153 Side Face S 4a 146
154 Side Order Chaos VS 5a 28
155 And Beaker HVS 5b 10
156 Tiny Left Arete f4+ * 365
157 Tiny Slab Left f5 ** 443
158 Tiny Slab Right f6A *** 298
Climb name Grade
159 Tiny Right Arete f6C * 94
160 Rocket Boy f7A * 8
161 Tiny Roof f6A+ ** 47
162 Solitude f6C * 50
163 Ash Tree Big Slab f2+ * 42
164 Gruesome Mantel f6A * 26
165 Jammed Block Mantel f5+ * 33
166 Easy Arete f2+ * 42
167 Undercut Block Left f4+ 34
168 Undercut Block Right f4+ 35
169 Sick of Ants * f6B+ 1
170 Shazam * f6B+ 1
171 Unorthodox * f6B  
  Ash Tree Wall
173 Ash Tree Little Slab f5 36
174 Sunlight Caller VS 5b 78
175 Oak Face HS 4b 95
176 Boggle Boothroyd VS 4c 52
177 The Last Great Problem HVS 5c 21
178 Striker Left-hand f7A+ ** 33
179 Striker f7C+ ** 5
180 Beach Tea One HVS 6a * 37
181 Ivy Tree HVS 5b * 220
182 Poison Ivy E1 6a 23
183 All Star's Goal E1 6a 66
184 Evening Wall E1 5b * 255
185 Wall Chimney S 4a * 127
186 Happily Ever After E6 6c * 3
187 Nefertiti E6 6c * 14
188 Wall Corner HVD 4a * 859
189 Wall Corner The Direct Finish VS 4c * 173
190 Ash Tree Arete VS 4c 40
191 Ash Tree Girdle S 4a 41
192 Ash Tree Variations VS 5c * 684
193 Ash Tree Variations Start f5+ ** 9
194 Ash Tree Wall S 4a ** 1861
195 Ash Tree Wall Eliminate VS 5b 73
196 Ash Trees Forever HVS 5b * 269
197 Ash Tree Crack VD * 1635
198 Artificial Stimulant/ Bilberry Pie E2 5b * 244
199 Bilberry Crack VD * 1370
200 Bilberry Face S 4a 797
201 Bilberry Arete M 367
202 Calvin Klimb E4 6b 1
203 Puck f7B ** 5
204 Twin Cracks VD 32
205 Rope Trick HS 4c 27
206 Who Needs Ropes? M 50
207 Head-Banger S 31
208 A Phenomenological Problem HVS 5b 23
209 Late Night Antics HVS 5c 3
210 Early Morning Performance HVS 5c 14
211 With a Little Help from my Friends E1 5b 2
212 Navana E6 6b * 4
213 Leaning Block Crack VD 67
214 Living in Oxford E7 7a ** 4
215 Sitting in Oxford f7A * 12
216 Superstition E8 7b ** 1
217 The Promise E8 7a *** 3
218 Green Chimney VD * 104
  The Terrace
220 The Terrace Left-hand f7C 4
221 The Terrace f7C *** 167
222 Jason's Roof f7B+ ** 5
223 Jason's stand-up V6 6b 34
224 6c under Jason's roof * f6C 4
225 7a+ Under Jason's Roof f7A+ *** 6
226 Hanging arĂȘte V7 17
227 Hanging Wall f7A ** 60
228 La Terrace f8A  
229 Hanging Wall Sitter f7A 85
  The Sphinx Area
231 Giza f7B+ *** 31
232 The Sphinx f7A+ *** 28
233 Voyager f8B *** 5
234 Voyager Sit Start
-
f8B+  
235 Sputnik f7B+ 1
236 Cleo's Edge f5+ *** 399
237 Cleo's Right Hand f3+ * 191
238 Cleo's Slab f2+ 83
239 Cleo's Other Edge f2+ 74
240 Sphinx Slab f4 * 36
241 Roof Goofe f6B ** 127
242 Roof Goofe Right f6B ** 60
243 Jetty Aretty f5+ * 82
244 Jetty Buttress HVD 4b ** 112
245 Jetty Start f3 * 9
246 Jetty Nose f6A+ * 29
247 Pocket Passer f6B * 137
248 Jetty Bulge f6B ** 92
249 Safe Bet f6C *** 79
250 Long Shot f6B * 2
251 Bedrock f7A ** 42
252 Yabadabadoo f6C * 62
253 Answer the Phone f5 * 25
  The Sentinel
255 Chicken Broth HVD 4a 10
256 Sharks Fin Soup HVS 4c 9
257 The Gargoyle E2 5c 14
258 Phillipa Buttress VS 4c 23
259 Crystal Eyes f7A+ 1
260 Crystal Tips E3 6a 59
261 Stepped Crack D 542
262 Black Slab Arete S 4a 433
263 Black Slab VS 4b * 1116
264 Black Slab Direct Start E1 5c 4
265 Black Slab Variation D * 868
266 Green Groove HVD 3c 125
267 Kiss me my darling E2 5c  
268 Now or Never E1 5b ** 500
269 Too Good To Be Forgotten E2 6a 7
270 Sentinel Chimney HVD 4a * 310
271 The Sentinel E2 5b *** 585
272 Sentinel Indirect HVS 5a 21
273 Sentinel Crack (Burbage North) D * 845
274 Present Arms HS 4c 306
275 'Armless D 52
276 High Flyer E2 5b * 85
277 The Grazer VS 5a * 715
278 Lieback HS 4b * 1060
279 Think of England M 180
280 Ringo S 4a * 1102
281 Ring My Bell E4 6a 3
282 Damp Trousers E1 5a ** 7
283 Ring Piece HVS 6a 75
284 Ring Climb S 4a * 858
285 Ring Chimney Left ArĂȘte E1 5c 1
286 Ring Chimney D 330
287 Agnostic's Arete VS 5a * 246
288 Pickpocket VS 4c * 205
289 Cleft right of Pickpocket D 15
  Knights Move
291 Ninety Sevener E1 5a 2
292 Seventy Niner VS 4c 22
293 The Keffer HVS 5a * 308
294 With Juicy Bits HVS 5a 24
295 Small Beer HS 4a 22
296 Still Orange S 4a * 1231
297 Rise N Shine HVS 5a 44
298 Green Crack VD * 976
299 Dover's Progress HVS 5a * 351
300 Hollyash Crack VS 4b ** 1398
301 En Passant
-
E2 6a 3
302 Knight's Move HVS 5a *** 2874
303 Peter's Progress VS 4c ** 216
304 Peter's Progress hvs finish HVS 5a 3
305 Arme Blanche E5 6a * 23
306 Great Crack VS 5a ** 641
307 King's Return E2 5b 8
308 The Big Chimney HS 4b * 161
309 The Rainmaker HVS 5b ** 390
310 Windjammer E1 5b * 244
311 Big Chimney Arete HS 4b * 968
312 Beautifully Dangerous f6B * 2
313 Barry Manilow VS 4c * 200
  Boyager
315 Bubble V6 ** 5
316 Boyager f7A+ ** 119
Climb name Grade
317 Mono Bulge f7B ** 15
318 Monochrome f7B *** 123
319 Asylum Sika f7B * 40
320 Asylum Sika low right f7C ** 3
321 Ripple Riser f6B * 31
322 Duo bulge f6B 2
323 Snappy Duds V7 ** 1
  Twin Chimneys to Tharf Cake
325 December Climb VD 14
326 Snowflakes VD 14
327 Survivor's Syndrome E2 5b 7
328 Twin Chimneys Layback HVD 4a ** 344
329 Left Twin Chimney VD 65
330 Right Twin Chimney HVD 65
331 The Happy Slapper HVS 5a 35
332 Jimmy Riddle VS 4c 30
333 Always another one VS 5b 11
334 Bulletproof
-
E1 6a 20
335 Split Slab Crack S 4a 118
336 Split Slab HVD 4b * 103
337 Slide Away E1 5a * 52
338 Grotto Slab M 200
339 Grotto Slab Variant S 3c 31
340 Grotto Crack VS 4b 33
341 Submission VS 5a * 150
342 Temptation HS 4a 5
343 Falstaff's Chimney VD * 119
344 Falstaff's Innominate S 4b * 390
345 Falstaff's Crack D 292
346 Pale Face HVS 5a 23
347 Horse Nation E1 5b  
348 Bilberry Cake VS 4c * 558
349 Bilberry Wall VD * 631
350 Bilberry Arete S 4a * 411
351 The Edging Machine HVS 5b 99
352 Alpha Crack HS 4b 223
353 Omega Crack VD 261
354 Blinkers VS 4c 11
355 Scarred Buttress Climb VD * 347
356 Clinkers VS 5a 5
357 First Crack S 4b 479
358 Tharf Cake HVS 5a * 329
359 Left Twin Crack S 4a * 648
360 Right Twin Crack HVD 4a * 563
361 Farcical Arete HS 4b * 385
362 Sally's Smile VD 4a 2
  Brooks' Layback
364 The Irrepressible Urge E1 5b ** 186
365 The Arctic Mammal E3 6a * 22
366 Small Arctic Mammal
-
E1 6a 38
367 Left Recess Crack S 3c * 555
368 Right Recess Crack HS 4a 169
369 Ace VS 4b * 254
370 The Chimney D 77
371 The Crack HS 4a 97
372 Ace Sharp Arete V3 6a 8
373 Thrall's Thrutch S 4a * 74
374 Brooks' Layback HS 4b ** 1064
375 Wobblestone Crack HVD 4a * 583
376 Biscuits for Breakfast E4 6b 3
377 Red Shift E3 5c 2
  Long Tall Sally
379 Hollybush Gully VD 134
380 The Screamer E1 5c * 25
381 Gazebo Watusi E6 6b * 3
382 Obscenity VS 4c *** 497
383 Amazon Crack HS 4b *** 1670
384 Artemis HVS 5a 5
385 Amazon Gully M 272
386 Lastest Greatest Problemest E1 5a 1
387 Boney Moroney E2 5c * 116
388 Rockers E1 5c * 11
389 Long Tall Sally E1 5b *** 1668
390 Bat One Blind E1 5c ** 3
391 Three Blind Mice E7 6c ** 46
392 Short Fat Bastard
-
E1 5b 1
393 Greeny Crack VS 4b ** 1093
394 Rhapsody in Green HVS 5a 61
395 Left Studio Climb VD 396
396 The Artist VS 5a 41
397 Right Studio Climb VD 420
398 Rose Flake VS 4b * 377
399 6c Arete below Long Tall Sally f6C 15
400 The Fin E1 5b * 200
401 Ai No Corrida E5 6b ** 49
402 Right Fin HVS 5a ** 814
403 Twenty Year Itch E4 6b 5
404 The Enthusiast f6A+ *** 64
405 Nicotine Stain f6B *** 195
406 Nicarete f5 *** 31
407 April Fool HVD 395
408 Approach HVS 5c * 83
409 Spider Crack VS 5b * 659
410 The Be All HVD 4a 392
411 Pest Control f6B * 7
412 The End All HS 4b 162
413 The end all slab V3 4
  End Slab
415 Shelf Wall f5+ * 67
416 Unnamed #3 HS 4b 13
417 End Buttress D 414
418 The Penultimate E1 5b * 345
419 Right Arete f7A ** 3
420 End Slab D * 755
421 End Slab Start f2+ * 16
422 False End Slab
-
D 55
423 End Slab Ramp D 103
424 Two Pocket Sitter f5+ ** 242
425 Front End Face f4+ * 18
426 Front End Face Right Arete V0+ * 19
427 Plank Sanction f7B ** 5
428 Front End Slab VD 76
429 Back End Slab D 499
430 Ender D * 708
431 Crack Habit f5+ ** 46
432 Endest Arete VD 342
433 Endste D 511
434 Grizzly Bear f6C+ * 17
435 Almost the last word E1 5c 24
436 Pocket Dyno f7A ** 6
437 Capped Rib f6A ** 76
438 Tidal Wave V0- 6
439 Beardown f7A+ 1
440 Grizzly bear LH
-
f6C+ 2
441 Tidal Wave (Sit Start) * f6A 1
  Velvet Roof
443 Pincer f6C+ 2
444 Velvet Crab f7A+ ** 79
445 Velvet Roof f5+ * 9
446 Right-hand Roof f6B * 20
447 Zaff Skoczylas f7C ** 68
448 Zaff Skoczylas (sit start) f7B+ ** 50
449 Zaff Skoczylas Right Hand f7C 12
  End Boulders
451 Side-wall f4+ * 11
452 Little Cube Arete f5 ** 46
453 Once Upon A Time f7C **  
454 Beyond The End f4 ** 86
455 Daddy Wall f4 * 126
456 Daddy Bear Arete f4+ * 105
457 Daddy Arete Right f4+ 92
458 Daddy's Arete Right - Right. V0 4c 27
459 Daddy Right Arete f3+ 76
460 Mommy Wall f4+ * 119
461 Mommy Bear Arete f4+ * 106
462 Mommy Bear Right f5 * 126
463 Don't get between f2+ 46
464 Baby Bear Wall f4+ * 104
465 Baby Bear Arete f4 * 105
  Location Uncertain
467 Pearl Tree Crack *
-
HS 4b 1
468 Kirkpatrick's Corner * S 4a 1
469 La Poo *
-
f7B 8
470 La Poo Assis * f7C 7
471 Undercut Slopers Eliminate f7A 1
472 Banana Finger Low Traverse * f7B **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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