Climbs 262
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces S

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A stunning day in Gower © r_o_b_h2

Crag features

A collection of crags lying high above the sea midway between Thurba Head and Paviland. Not popular enough to have got all the loose rock off - take care. Routes up to 45m.

Approach notes

Approach from Pitton to Thurba Head: from there, take the cliff E for 15min past a wall and stile to an obvious valley leading to the sea - Ram Grove. (40 mins) The Three Sisters are E. Deborahs Overhang is 185m E of the third. Alternatively, from Pilton Green car park (see Paviland) take footpaths over fields: after reaching the stile at the head of the valley, take the first stile in the wall on the R. At the clifftop, follow the path past a stone wall down one, then two valleys. At the second valley mouth is a shattered pinnacle on the R (W): Deborahs Overhang is below this. The comments about dodgy bolts are wrong.

The quickest approach to all areas is to park at Mewslade farm then walk 15 min  L (east) through the farm yard and across fields to Ramsgrove where a low path leads to the other Sisters.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Went to Third Sister and was pleasantly surprised. Good routes for those climbing in the 6s on good rock with very generous bolting. Well worth a visit.
Owen W-G - 02/Sep/13
Visited at the weekend for the first time in 10 years, and was slightly shocked at how overgrown it's become. Does anyone climb here these days, or is everyone too busy clipping bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 28/Aug/13
Debs zawn - Great sport venue.
mikeshewring - 06/Jun/11
This crag has a lot to offer, not least its sheltered location. If the wind is northerly at all, or due west you can escape the breeze and enjoy sunshine from early/mid morning. A little sun trap! The VS routes are all good, and probably better than their star rating suggests. Although the rock at the easier end of the crag looks at first glance to have potential for looseness, this is largely illusory and the routes are well furnished with holds and gear. Be careful with belays at the top - many of the cracks which have been used are between loose/suspect blocks. What is also illusory is the apparently slab-like nature of the crag. When you get on the routes they are much steeper than they look from below.
Rog Wilko - 06/Apr/10
I did a topo of this cliff a few years ago. It is online at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/adrian99/paviland_topo/index.htm
Adrian Jones - 07/Dec/05
A gem of a crag which looks absolutely magnificent upon first acquaintance. Unfortunately its triangular appearance is not due to the perspective effect of looking up at it from the bottom, and all the routes tend to converge a little towards the top. Nonetheless it is an awesome crag and worth several visits for the mid-grade climber. Assassin is one of the best HVSs in the region and a benchmark for the grade, and the Jackal Finish is worth more than its single star. The old pegs are now all completely useless; this does not affect the Junction stance as there is plenty of natural protection, however the E4 that tkaes the main challenge of the roof is almost certainly undergraded as it relies on one of these rust-buckets for protection, and a crucial undercling looks like it may snap off at any moment. Beware that the rock around the area of the overlaps is not frequently visited and thus is dusty, licheny and loose in places.
Alun - 05/Dec/05
Hay ive found a new route on this crag u start in the big cave at the base of sherlob then climb the wall on the right and basicall follow the light ehn u come out onto a ledge and go straight up here to the top ive graded this about HS 4c but will people try the route and tell me what they think of the grade i gave it but just a little tip wear a helmet get back to me guys my email is welshlad16@hotmail.com cheers and happy climbing
will.s - 30/Apr/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Saddam's Wall
2 Chemical Ali 4c 6
3 Barzan Lost His Head 6a * 13
4 Wam Bang Thank You Saddam E4 6a *  
5 A Fragile Peace E3 5c **  
6 Al-Tikrit 6b+ *** 8
7 Sunni Daze 6b ** 8
8 Comical Ali E1 5a ** 6
  Rams Grove Crag
10 Standing Guard HVS 5a  
11 Windworn E5 6a  
12 Snowstorm E3 5c  
13 Sundrench E4 6a  
14 The Ram of Radyr E4 6b  
15 Taste of Tradition E4 6a  
16 Beth E2 5b  
17 Where East Meets West E4 6a  
18 Malaysian Lust E5 6b *  
19 Insatiable Appetite E1 5b  
20 Don't Tell Anne E3 6a  
21 Honey E1 5b  
22 August Mank Holiday E1 5b  
23 Sugar E1 5b  
24 50 Franc Menu VS 4c  
25 Entre VS 4c  
26 Appetizer S  
  Rams Grove Seaward Crag
28 Phelan Man
-
6b * 7
29 Grainger Man
-
6a+ * 9
30 The Peacock Guys
-
6b 7
31 Mano a Mano
-
6c * 7
32 Man Up
-
6a+ 6
33 Man Down
-
6b * 5
34 Oh Man
-
6c+ ** 9
35 Play The Pink Oboe 6a * 8
36 Ram Raiders
-
6b * 12
37 Ram Bam Thank Ewe Lamb
-
6a 11
38 Blowing The Horn
-
6a+ * 9
  First Sister
40 Mercy, Mercy, Mercy E5 6a *  
41 Sister of Mercy E4 6a *  
42 Paparazzi Blues E6 6b *  
43 The Angst of Anti-Fashion E5 6b *  
44 South East Wall E1 5b  
45 Solitary Brother E3 6b  
  Second Sister
47 Barney Rubble VD  
48 Finnmark E2 5b  
49 South Wall Variation VS 4c * 4
50 South Wall VS 4c  
51 Arrow HVS 5a 1
52 Topless Admirers HVS 5a 1
53 Sister Sledge E1 5a  
54 Sister Bliss E5 6b  
55 Bloodbond E1 5b  
56 Sleuth E3 5c  
57 Holy Sister * 4c *** 1
  Sister 2.5
59 Eat My shorts
-
5b 16
60 Rikes Raggy
-
6a 16
61 Howdy Partner
-
6a+ * 16
62 They Killed Kenny
-
6a+ 14
63 Suffering Succotash 6b+ * 7
64 Ridiculous is the Burden of Genius
-
6b+ * 11
65 The Wettest April Since Records Began
-
E3 5c  
66 What's Up Doc 6c 5
67 Ay, Caramba 6c+ * 4
68 Sisterly Luv
-
E5 6a  
69 The Beverly Sisters
-
E3 5c  
70 Heavens to Murgatroyd 6c+ * 3
71 It Stinks
-
6c * 8
72 In Between Sisters
-
E4 6a  
73 It's Hero Time
-
6a 14
74 Pot Boiler 4b 3
75 Bodice Ripper 5c 3
76 Hot off the Press * 5b 2
77 Seeing Beyond the Drill Direct * S 1
78 Page Turner * 5a 1
79 Schmills and Boon * 6b 1
  Lower Third Sister
81 Ramp It Up 5a 5
82 Teenage Rampage 6a 4
83 Groovy Baby 5a * 4
84 Ballroom Blitz 5c 3
85 Blockbuster 6c * 4
86 Ugly lovely climb 5a * 6
87 Amblimance 5b 5
88 Two Nans And A Grandpa 6a+ * 8
89 Peruvian Marching Powder 5a 5
90 Gemini Spunk Wizard And His Sexually Active Teapot
-
Project  
91 Harriet Harman & The Lehman Sisters
-
6c+ 4
92 Sexploration E4 5c  
  Third Sister
94 Do Be Doo
-
E3 6a * 1
95 Chilean Flame Thrower 7b+ ** 2
Climb name Grade
96 Fire in their Eyes E6 6b *  
97 Flaming Fingers E5 6b * 1
98 World In Action 7b+ ** 9
99 Popped In, Souled Out 7b ** 16
100 Chilean Flame Flower E6 6c 1
101 Leftism 7a+ ** 10
102 French Undressing 7a * 45
103 Twlight World 6c *** 93
104 Southeast Wall 6a+ *** 134
105 Fiesta 6b ** 109
106 Bob's Your Uncle E3 6a 16
107 Fanny's Your Aunt 6a * 22
108 Ten Bears
-
HVS 4c  
109 Sister Mary's Blessed Finger 6a ** 127
110 The Enema Affair 5c * 94
111 Bored of Clipping Bolts VS 4b 1
  Bottom Third Sister
113 Foam Under Sister 5b 9
114 Prim 6a+ 7
115 The Haworth Lassies 6a+ * 7
116 Las Mariposas 6b * 5
117 Wierd and Wayward
-
6b+ *  
118 Thankless Child
-
6b+ * 2
119 Serpent's Tooth
-
6b 3
120 The Daughters Of Lear 6c ** 4
121 The Underling 7a * 2
122 The Underling's Undercling 6b * 4
123 Pleiades 5a 12
124 Touching The Rusty Ring 5b 13
125 16 Kn working load * 6a 1
126 Gaddafi Groove * 6a 5
127 Mubarak * 6b * 3
128 Water *
-
6c+ ** 4
129 Arab spring *
-
7a ** 2
130 Power vacuum *
-
6c ** 2
  Deborah's Zawn
132 Debbie Likes It Wet 6a+ 6
133 Charlie Barking 7a * 9
134 Silent Echo E1 * 4
135 Silent Echo Direct Start E2 5b * 4
136 Prison Bitch 7b ** 5
137 Debbie Reynolds 7a ** 19
138 Happy Valley 7a * 3
139 Valley Uprising 6c+ * 16
140 Bolder Boulder 7a ** 22
141 Under Arrest 7c+ ** 4
142 Wide Eyed and Legless 7b+ *** 9
143 Resisting Arrest 7b+ *** 7
144 Department of Correction 7b+ *** 15
145 Deputy Dawg 7b+ ** 1
146 Support Your Local Sheriff 7b+ ** 6
147 Line of Duty 7c * 1
148 Underdog 8a ** 1
149 Dog Days are Over 8a+ *** 1
150 The Salubrious Passage E5 6a ** 1
  The Tooth Fairy
152 Dentist's Chair E3 5c  
153 Open Wide Please E5 6a  
154 Gnasher E5 6a  
155 E By Gum E5 6a *  
156 Scurvy E3 5c  
  Deborah's Overhang
158 State of Grace E4 6a *  
159 Debauching Deborah 6c 3
160 Deborah 6c+ 1
161 Hydraulic Lunch 7c+ ** 1
162 Three Minute Hero 7a+ * 1
163 Ground Control E4 6b  
164 Down Under Deborah 7a * 1
165 Going Down on Deborah 6c * 4
166 New Zawn 6a+ 1
167 Voyage of the Zawn Treader 5b 1
  The Knave
169 Beyond the Swell E1 5b 2
170 Between Two Storms E1 5b 1
171 Not That Condor Moment VS 4c  
172 Knave's Slab S  
173 Nothing Is Forever E3 5c  
174 Jack O' Diamonds E3 5c *  
  Deborah's Bouldering
176 Sean's Start V7 ** 2
177 Dirty Deborah f7A *** 3
178 Power Pop f7B *** 2
179 Dick Barton V8+ ** 1
180 Deborah's Traverse f7B *** 3
  Seaspit Small Cove
182 Kithara E3 6a  
183 Ne Pas Equipe E4 6a  
184 Staple Riot E3 6a  
185 Spit Grafitti E2 5c  
  Stallion Cove (Paviland Wild West)
187 Le Sewage Pudding E1 5a  
188 Raspberry Nipple VS 5a  
189 Outside Leg
-
VD  
190 Last Over Before Tea
-
VD  
Climb name Grade
191 Chill Air S  
192 Meg's Route VS 4b  
193 Rachel's Route VS 4b  
194 Line of Totality E3 5c *  
195 Unnamed E3 5c  
196 Parenting Orders and Bribery VD  
197 Ron The Common Man VD **  
198 Unnamed E1 5b  
199 Machine Gun Kelly E5 6b *  
200 Devolution E6 6b **  
201 Colt 45 E2 5c *  
202 Marco Golo E2 5b * 1
203 Marco Golo Direct E3 6b 1
204 Moacs Are Extinct HVS 5a * 1
205 Dinosaurs Don't Clip HS 4b *  
206 Flaming June!? E2 5b  
207 Winter Looms So Soon E2 5b  
  Paviland Far Far Far West
209 The Time Directive VS 4c 1
210 On The Job HVS 4c * 1
211 Spank Your Secretary VS 4c 1
  Free Lunchers Warm-up Zawn
213 Dai's Route 5c * 18
214 One for the Trads HVS 5a 1
215 Cold Inconvenience 6b ** 25
216 Hung Over 6a+ **** 52
217 Threadbare 6b ** 26
218 Nematode 6b+ ** 20
219 Rock Bottom 6b+ ** 9
220 Chock a Block 6b ** 14
221 Open Project Project  
222 Off The Peg 6b+ *** 30
223 Scarface 6b * 21
224 Hot Flush 6b ** 37
225 Stonewall 6b+ * 18
226 Ledger 6b * 14
  Zulu Zawn
228 Zulu Wall 8a *** 6
229 Ultimatum 7c *** 9
230 Gunfire Hill E1 5b  
231 Voortrekker E5 6a  
232 Rorke's Drift E1 5b  
233 Smuts VS 4c  
  Paviland
235 Balrog
-
HS 4b 4
236 Armageddon
-
HVS 5a 11
237 Gimli
-
VS 4c * 22
238 Gimli Direct
-
E1 5b 2
239 Black Widow HVS 5a 2
240 Middle Earth
-
VS 4c 21
241 Middle Earth Direct
-
VS 4c 7
242 Liang Shan Po
-
E1 5b * 37
243 The Ring
-
HS 4b ** 121
244 East Gully Groove HVS 5a ** 55
245 Shelob HS 4b * 126
246 Polly's Route
-
VD 14
247 Babylon
-
HVS 5a 36
248 Half Dome
-
E2 5c ** 21
249 The Cure
-
E4 6b 1
250 Talons E2 6a 2
251 Fellowship of the Ring
-
E1 5c 6
252 Mouse House E2 5c 1
253 Ferret HVS 5a 1
254 Shrew HVS 5a 1
255 Rat E3 6a 1
256 Ice Age E3 5c  
257 Down Under E5 6a *  
258 Squeeze Please VS 4c  
  Liberty Zawn
260 Metal Fatigue E3 6a * 1
261 Liberty E2 5c ** 1
262 Simple Minds VS 4c 1
263 Yanks
-
E4 6c 1
  Juniper Wall
265 Overkill HVS 4c 8
266 Killer's Route E2 5b * 25
267 The Jackal Finish E2 5c * 18
268 Haaivinnensoep E4 6a 1
269 Barracuda E5 6a * 3
270 Assassin HVS 5a *** 272
271 Perch E1 5b 51
272 Trevor, The Pint and The Pram / aka Hitman HVS 4c 50
273 Rattle and Hum VS 4c 13
274 Task Force VS 4c 87
275 Ninja VS 4b * 155
276 Hair Raiser HVS 5a * 37
277 On The Horizon VS 4b * 115
278 On The Horizon Direct VS 4c * 23
279 Socialist Worker VS 4c * 65
280 Dry Riser HVS 4c ** 35
281 Test Block * 4b 1
282 Final Draft *
-
5a 2
283 Gafsa * 6c * 2
284 Starting Block * 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore