Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Faces N

Richard Davies repeating his own route. © Richard Davies

Crag features

This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is situated high above the N332, just past the Mascarat tunnels on the approach to Calp. The Castellet de Calp is the remains of a watchtower that served to prevent Berber pirate assaults. These days the walls below it have been developed to give a great set of routes in the mid-to-hard grades. They offer a shady retreat in hot weather, something in short supply in this area. The routes tend to be vertical or gently overhanging on reasonable rock, although there are some loose sections. Several routes have been extended upwards to give superb pitches higher up on the walls.

Approach notes

Castellet de Calp can be approached easily from either Maryvilla, or the big development at Pueblo de Mascarat. From Calp, turn into Maryvilla, then follow signs to Castellet de Calp - right, sharp right then straight on - and park at a left-hand bend with a track heading off to the right. Walk up the track and continue steeply up the hill towards the castellet. Pick up a small path by a pylon and follow this down and around to the face.

The alternative approach from Pueblo de Mascarat involves turning off the N332 and following the road down (parking spot for Mascarat Gorge), then turn left and zig-zag up the hill. Park at a high point where the tarmac road ends. Don't go up the steep concrete road, since parking at the top of this is difficult (and incredibly steep). Walk down to a track from the parking spot and turn left up the hill to join the other approach.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
A great convenient and shady crag! Not sure why the stars are missing on some of the lines. Everything we did was excellent; on the list to go back to.
Dave Warburton - 29/Nov/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cueva Pequeña
2 Life's a Block 6b+ * 2
3 Hunting Party 6b+ * 2
4 The Razor's Edge 7b+ * 1
5 The Gash 6c+ *** 8
6 Collateral Damage 7c *** 4
7 Unnamed 6c *  
  Main Wall
9 Stalking the Angel 7b+ * 17
10 Shogun 7c+ ** 19
11 FHM 7a ** 68
12 Destination Lost 7a+ ** 12
13 Chasing the Dinosaur 7c *** 20
14 The Reckoning 7c * 5
15 Brain Freeze 7a ** 28
16 The Kraken 7c+ ** 5
17 Brandelero 6c+ ** 17
18 Brando Alto 6c *** 5
19 Sleepyhead 7b ** 29
20 Sleepynut Project  
21 The Juggler 7a * 11
22 Poison Ivy 7b ** 24
23 Suero 7b *** 65
24 Ant Invasion 7a ** 45
25 Congrio 7c ** 11
26 Lockdown 6c+ * 10
27 The Long Con 7b+ *** 10
28 Vamos a la Playa 7b ** 6
29 Red Bull 7c+ * 4
30 Quicksilver 7a ** 24
31 Fast Lane 7c+ *** 1
32 Pilot Error 6c+ ** 25
33 Perfect '10' 7b *** 9
34 Maiden Voyage 6a+ * 49
35 Maiden Voyage II 6c ** 16
36 Ice Age 6a * 20
37 The Black Pearl 7a+ ** 4
38 Iron Man 7b ** 1
39 Captain Barbosa 7b+ ** 2

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